you shouldn have changed oil yet
you should have left the oil that the engine brought from factory at least up until now, but aparently you changed already.
curiously you changed with the best oil that one could use to breakin M1 syntetic
in this case its even true becauae you used a A1/B1 oil
that has no antifriction aditive
and M1 is the good at cleaning oil debri
that engine must be in good condition now as if you had made 15k miles with the factory oil fill
so now upgrade to the best W30 that you can find
or change brand a good 5W30 bp or castrol or equivalent
redline PP
wtv
to be on the safe side i wont continue with M1
ah
another point what seems to agravate the problem with M1 is that probably this M1 colided with the remains of the previous oil
the fuel is derived of the break in process... might indicate that you are still in breakin
so i recommend is to put a good 5W30
and start banging the engine with good sessions of WOT and down reving while engaged (assuming that you have a manual)
this is what you will be doing
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
i dont recomend doing it with this M1 because of the bearings wear ,, i would assume that you could have killed them because you cleaned the molibdenum that usualy Factory fills have that help the bearings to seat properly within proper clearances
fuel in oil means that you havent banged the engine properly during the miles (yet) i say yet because maybe.. maybe you are yet late to do it
because piston rings and cylinder walls are not worn yet
using a sintetic oil all
so now
after the first 10000 km you must do WOT and high rev sessions to allow finishing the break-in process as described in that page
this to cylinder walls and piston rings mainly .. before they become hardened by the heat-up cool-down of normal usage.
its normal to have oil consumption
you will have it once you start high reving the engine "properly"