Mobil 1 15W50 Gold Cap
- Thread starter Magnatic
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I've run the red cap and now have gold cap in my '97 Honda. No problems at all.
Use with confidence.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=994359&gonew=1#UNREAD
Drew
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=994359&gonew=1#UNREAD
Drew
Originally Posted By: Drew2000
Use with confidence.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=994359&gonew=1#UNREAD
Drew
Wow, a synthetic 50 wt down to a 30 wt in a little over 6,000 miles, that isn't exactly impressive performance.
Use with confidence.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=994359&gonew=1#UNREAD
Drew
Wow, a synthetic 50 wt down to a 30 wt in a little over 6,000 miles, that isn't exactly impressive performance.
Not impressive but not the end of the world either, IMO. Most bikes are very happy at 30w. If he would of pulled the sample XXXX miles later it may have thickened, came back as a 40 and everyone would of been OK with it.
Originally Posted By: g56
Originally Posted By: Drew2000
Use with confidence.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=994359&gonew=1#UNREAD
Drew
Wow, a synthetic 50 wt down to a 30 wt in a little over 6,000 miles, that isn't exactly impressive performance.
Originally Posted By: g56
Originally Posted By: Drew2000
Use with confidence.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=994359&gonew=1#UNREAD
Drew
Wow, a synthetic 50 wt down to a 30 wt in a little over 6,000 miles, that isn't exactly impressive performance.
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Mobil gold cap is one of the two recommendations if you want to run synthetic that seems to most commonly come up on http://www.rebel250.com
I have a Rebel 250 and run Amsoil. Yes, that's the other one and for the cost of a quart and a half I don't consider it a big expense considering what a small engine it is. With no oil filter, only 19 horsepower, AND a shared sump, Amsoil is cheap insurance plus I don't have to change it every 1500 miles like the guys that run dino have to. Look into Amsoils EaA filters also and see if you can get one to fit your bike.
Steve
I have a Rebel 250 and run Amsoil. Yes, that's the other one and for the cost of a quart and a half I don't consider it a big expense considering what a small engine it is. With no oil filter, only 19 horsepower, AND a shared sump, Amsoil is cheap insurance plus I don't have to change it every 1500 miles like the guys that run dino have to. Look into Amsoils EaA filters also and see if you can get one to fit your bike.
Steve
That ST1100 has gear driven cams I believe. Someone else posted a UOA from a VFR/Interceptor which also has gear driven cams. I have a feeling these engines beat up on oil a little faster than other bikes. Here's a link to an old UOA from my Nighthawk that ran almost 6K with the red cap formula.
Originally Posted By: g56
Originally Posted By: Drew2000
Use with confidence.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=994359&gonew=1#UNREAD
Drew
Wow, a synthetic 50 wt down to a 30 wt in a little over 6,000 miles, that isn't exactly impressive performance.
The ST1300 has gear driven cams and tends to shear any oil, especially with hours of sustained 100+mpg higher RPM riding. Considering the agressive riding on this trip, the oil did fine and the wear numbers are OK. This bike does not putt-putt from bar to bar.
Drew
Originally Posted By: Drew2000
Use with confidence.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=994359&gonew=1#UNREAD
Drew
Wow, a synthetic 50 wt down to a 30 wt in a little over 6,000 miles, that isn't exactly impressive performance.
The ST1300 has gear driven cams and tends to shear any oil, especially with hours of sustained 100+mpg higher RPM riding. Considering the agressive riding on this trip, the oil did fine and the wear numbers are OK. This bike does not putt-putt from bar to bar.
Drew
Originally Posted By: Magnatic
Does anyone have any experience with this oil in a shared sump motorcycle?
Tell us more. What kind of bike? How many CC's? What kind of riding? What's the lowest temp you ride in? Is the bike water cooled?
Does anyone have any experience with this oil in a shared sump motorcycle?
Tell us more. What kind of bike? How many CC's? What kind of riding? What's the lowest temp you ride in? Is the bike water cooled?
I've seen no evidence that gear driven cams are any harder on oil than Chain/gear driven.
Most large touring bikes are the easier on oil, than any other type bike, alot of it has to do with their riding enviornment too.
A bike thats mainly toured from state to state (like interstate), is going to be easier on the oil versus performance ridden on backroads.
Most large touring bikes are the easier on oil, than any other type bike, alot of it has to do with their riding enviornment too.
A bike thats mainly toured from state to state (like interstate), is going to be easier on the oil versus performance ridden on backroads.
I put 46,000 miles on a '031500 Kawasaki Mean Streak using Mobil 1 15W-50 and 27,000 miles on a '06 Kawasaki Concours, again Mobil 1 15W-50 I changed oil every 4,000 miles and never had a clutch slip and didn't have a problem with the cams pitting on the Connie, but then again if I would have used any good name brand oil the results might have been the same. I think we worry too much about which oil to use, use what you like, don't keep it in too long and our bike will last a long time.
A lot of folks used to run the old red cap in the air cooled bikes.
I have wanted to try this for the longest but then I found out about Rotella and the other hdeo's and they are such a great deal for $9/gallon and pretty stout add packs that I just stuck with those.
Another one to consider although pricey is the M1 vtwin oil 20W50, very robust and has good numbers, but again is around $8/quart. If he will be going 5K+ intervals it might not be so bad but shorter intervals and would probably add up quickly in price.
I have wanted to try this for the longest but then I found out about Rotella and the other hdeo's and they are such a great deal for $9/gallon and pretty stout add packs that I just stuck with those.
Another one to consider although pricey is the M1 vtwin oil 20W50, very robust and has good numbers, but again is around $8/quart. If he will be going 5K+ intervals it might not be so bad but shorter intervals and would probably add up quickly in price.
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The only difference I have noticed between the Mobil 1 15W-50 and Rotella 5W-40 in any of my bikes is that the heavier 15W-50 Mobil 1 makes my shifts smoother specialy in the summer months, I bet trannies just like a little heavier oil.
The difference between walmart 15w50m1 and walmart VtwinM1 is less than 2bucks and the vtwin oil is a higher grade oil
I agree with 5k + interals the vtwin is a better option
I agree with 5k + interals the vtwin is a better option
Originally Posted By: Mackelroy
I've seen no evidence that gear driven cams are any harder on oil than Chain/gear driven.
Then, why does oil in shared-sump bikes tend to shear more from the transmission gears than when used in automotive use?
Drew
PS...Avoid riding interstates like the plague. Might as well drive a car than.
I've seen no evidence that gear driven cams are any harder on oil than Chain/gear driven.
Then, why does oil in shared-sump bikes tend to shear more from the transmission gears than when used in automotive use?
Drew
PS...Avoid riding interstates like the plague. Might as well drive a car than.
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