Mobil 1 0W40, Chevrolet '02 Z28(LS1), 5058mi

[Jared H]

Hi Guys ... below are my results obtained with Mobil 1 0w40 in my '02 LS1 Camaro. Sample was taken 04/10/04. I was a little more spirited in my driving this OCI ... I actually got the Oil Change Light to illuminate.

Results were obtained using a paper airfilter element in conjunction with Stock Lid and a Mobil 1 oilfilter (M1-206).

Vehicle is a 2002 Camaro Z28 with 20,550 miles on the clock. Car is essentially stock. This oil was origionally put in the car in December of 2003. I used 1/2 quart of Q.S. 10W30 as make up oil. Car has had slight piston slap since new which has proven to be louder in winter and barely noticeable in summer.

Any comments would be appreciated.

Element- UOA (VOA as found on BITOG)
ALUMINUM- 4 (1)
CHROMIUM- 1 (0)
IRON- 25 (1)
COPPER- 62 (0)
LEAD- 7 (0)
TIN- 3 (0)
MOLYBDENUM- 66 (72)
NICKEL- 1 (0)
MANGANESE- 1 (0)
SILVER- 0 (0)
TITANIUM- 0 (0)
POTASSIUM- 2 (0)
BORON- 101 (186)
SILICON- 10 (4)
SODIUM- 5 (6)
CALCIUM- 2801 (3243)
MAGNESIUM- 14 (13)
PHOSPHORUS- 640 (808)
ZINC- 796 (976)
BARIUM- 0 (0)

SUS@ 210F- 67.7 (72.7)
FLASH PT- 405 (465)

Less than .5% fuel found
0.0% antifreeze found
0.0% water found
0.3% insoluables found
TBN 4.7

Thank you ... Jared H.

Below is a link to my original Mobil 1 10W30 post.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001096#000003

[ April 22, 2004, 11:38 PM: Message edited by: Jared H ]

 

[Last_Z]

Jared,
Good report! This report looks "statistically" the same as your previous report. The small difference in PPMs could even be from contaminats in the virgin oil. One thing I don't like about the 0W-40 is that it thins out a helluva lot....it's a 30W in this case.
As for the oil filter, I would use something that flows a little more like a SuperTech filter or K&N....I personally use ST filter. The oil could have gone lower.
Also, your copper seems to be trending down nicely. Your insolubles are very low....and that's a good thing!
Other than the thinning of the 0W-40, everything looks very good to me!

 

[SSDude]

It's good to see a fellow LS1 driver submit a report. Overall, a good report but your lead seems high. I have about the same miles as you but my lead is about half the amount of your's. Your cooper is right about what it should be.

 

[SSDude]

Sorry!!!! I meant that your iron is high not your lead.

 

[Jared H]

Last Z ... the two things I noticed with this sample (0W40 vs. the last sample 10W30 other than the thinning of the 0W40 you mentioned) were 1.)Lead ppm dropped to 7 vs 10. 2.)Silicon had dropped to 10 vs 14.

I think Si dropped because I put the stock lid back on ... I'm wondering if Pb dropped because the oil viscosity while a 30wt is still a thicker 30wt than the 10W30.

I wonder if insoluables being low has anything to do with the Mobil 1 filter?

SSDude ... I'm thinking of trying an additive to reduce the iron levels seen ... haven't decided yet.

Thx ... JHH

[ April 23, 2004, 11:10 AM: Message edited by: Jared H ]

 

[Jelly]

Why don't you try German Castrol 0w-30 and a K&N oil filter?

 

[SSDude]

You might think about running Redline or GC.

 

[Patman]

I agree with the others, the Mobil 1 filter is probably restricting your oil flow and you'd be better off with something like the K&N. But a good alternative would be to run a NAPA Gold/Wix, or the Supertech/STP. Be sure to run one of the longer filters though, as the shorter stock sized filters will not flow as well.

Which aftermarket lid did you have before? Perhaps it wasn't sealing itself to the bottom half of the airbox properly? I had an MTI airbox on my 98 Formula and it sealed up nicely. That is one of the best mods you can do on an LS1 f-body, it's 10 easy horsepower.

 

[Jared H]

Jelly ... Autozone is where I buy my Mobil 1 206 filter. They have K&N airfilters on the shelf but no oilfilters. I may ask to see if they'd consider stocking oil filters as well.

Last Z ... I believe the M1 206 is the larger/longer "truck" filter. I believe a M1 10? is a stock replacement. I'll look at the Supertech filter next time I'm in WalMart ... is it sufficient for a 5000mi OCI?

PatMan ... I've got an early MTI lid as well as a LS1 Motorsports Lid (now QMP). My QMP lid actually fits better than my MTI lid and I don't think the QMP fit is exceptional. IMO they are both a bit loose. No one seems to like M1 oil filters around here.

My thinking was that yes the M1 may be more restrictive to flow because of the 10um filtration rating but if I'm using the longer M1 206 filter it should help offset flow restrictions by increasing the available surface area of the filter.

I don't like to change more than one variable at a time while testing ... so I'll change only the oil or the filter on the next interval but not both

Thanks for all the replies ... JHH

 

[buster]

Jared, keep in mind your results are VERY good by almost everyone's standards except the fanatical, which is most of us on here.

I posted a UOA from Amsoil's lab with 0w-30 M1 in an Acura RSX. Take a look at the numbers to the right of the wear values given as to what is really acceptable or not.

I'd personally run the Mobil 1 10w-30, Amsoil ASL,ATM or GC if you can find it. Good Luck.

 

[Patman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by buster:
Jared, keep in mind your results are VERY good by almost everyone's standards except the fanatical, which is most of us on here.

---

True, even with wear numbers like this I agree that his engine will most likely go a very long time, maybe much longer than he plans on owning it anyways, but most of us on here strive to see the lowest wear we possibly can, even if it might be overkill. We've got the knowledge on here to help us get our lowest wear numbers, so why not use it to our advantage?

It's also kinda fun to be able to post a UOA with very low wear numbers.

 

[Last_Z]

Jared,
The ST filters will make it to 5k miles and more. I've run one in my wife's Corolla past 6k miles and it showed good results.

 

[Jared H]

Jelly ... 1.) The K&N oil filter is not readily available off the shelf in the Houston area (atleast I have not been able to find it). I'm trying to stay away from special order motor oil and filters at this point. 2.)GC 0W30 is readily available. I believe it is good oil. My perception of Castrol Quality is largely dependant upon where it is manufactured ... thus I'm not completely comfortable using Castrol Products.

SSDude ... I may at some point, but I'm trying to stay away from special order motor oils.

 

[Jelly]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Jared H:
Jelly ... 1.) The K&N oil filter is not readily available off the shelf in the Houston area (atleast I have not been able to find it). I'm trying to stay away from special order motor oil and filters at this point. 2.)GC 0W30 is readily available. I believe it is good oil. My perception of Castrol Quality is largely dependant upon where it is manufactured ... thus I'm not completely comfortable using Castrol Products.

SSDude ... I may at some point, but I'm trying to stay away from special order motor oils.

---

Have you called any local AutoZone's to see if they have the K&N filter?

 

[Last_Z]

Jared,
I also think you should give Castrol GC a try. It has shown pretty good results in many different cars. Personally, I will be trying all M1 15W-50 with an additive of my own.

The M1 filter could be causing a little bit of extra wear by limiting oil flow. Those things are rated at 10 microns, which is very efficient at removing particles, but also oil flow. Any 15-20 micron filter should do better. You might also want to consider the oversized one. I use Supertech's ST3675, which is the larger one for our cars.

Rick

 

[Mike Thompson]

Seems like everyone has their preconceived notions and don't like to be confused by the facts....

Here you have a very good report, including very low insolubles, and all I see is how you need to change your oil filter

Personally I use M-1 filters, although I would be happy to change to something else if I saw a reason. But so far they work just fine for me, and since I was able to buy a case off ebay for 50%, I'll keep using them. Seems obvious to me that if this filter was in bypass mode all the time as some have suggested here, the filtering wouldn't be nearly as effective as it has proven to be.

 

[Motorbike]

After reading a tech article on the new LS6 engine I believe most of the lead in the LS1 analysis's came from the main bearings on cold start .

LS6 analysis should show less lead since they decreased the main bearing clearance to help stop the cold knock and they have yet another redesigned piston that has less elements in the metalurgy make-up that showed false valvetrain wear in the LS1.

The redesigned piston has a different " cam ' profile " some call it barrel " and promises for a tighter fit , less noise and better ring seal .

So in essense I'm saying the reason the LS1 does a little better on a 12-14cSt oil in PB reduction seems to be related only to the main bearing clearance .

Another note would be as the gray iron cylinders season more and more we should see FE reduced regardless of the vi oil used , within reason of course

 

[haley10]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Mike Thompson:
Seems like everyone has their preconceived notions and don't like to be confused by the facts....

Here you have a very good report, including very low insolubles, and all I see is how you need to change your oil filter

Personally I use M-1 filters, although I would be happy to change to something else if I saw a reason. But so far they work just fine for me, and since I was able to buy a case off ebay for 50%, I'll keep using them. Seems obvious to me that if this filter was in bypass mode all the time as some have suggested here, the filtering wouldn't be nearly as effective as it has proven to be.

---

I sure wish I knew more about this issue, although I've read everything on Bitog. GM bypass is built into the block and maybe it isn't that sensitive. Pressure spikes are seen at WOT with some filters.

I'm thinking M1 and other high efficiency filters are better for longer drains and if you don't romp on it all the time, then maybe K&N is better.

 

[Bror Jace]

I'd like to see the improvement you'd get by switching to Schaeffer's synthetic blend ... either 10W30 or 15W40.

Take a look at axe's Z06's results ... brand new and track driven!

--- Bror Jace

 

[jason07-1zzfe]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Motorbike:
...So in essense I'm saying the reason the LS1 does a little better on a 12-14cSt oil in PB reduction seems to be related only to the main bearing clearance ...

---

I don't see that 0w-40 did any better than 10w-30 in this application.