Its a no brainer, just do an OCI with Kreen and 10w30 PYB...
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MMO Clean = New Lifter Tick
- Thread starter Phishin
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Originally Posted By: Phishin
How would a sludged up engine cause the timing chain to deteriorate? Or are you thinking something else has caused this besides the sludge?
Just that many miles could cause this (note to self; time to check mine as well!).
BUT, all of that abrasive grit, sludge, and gunk circulating in and around the teeth of the cam and crank cogs, and in that chain cannot be too good for it either.
How would a sludged up engine cause the timing chain to deteriorate? Or are you thinking something else has caused this besides the sludge?
Just that many miles could cause this (note to self; time to check mine as well!).
BUT, all of that abrasive grit, sludge, and gunk circulating in and around the teeth of the cam and crank cogs, and in that chain cannot be too good for it either.
Like mentioned, parts are now cleaner, and clearances/passages are opened up.
So you have a leak down of a lifter when sitting, and takes a few seconds to refill .
ATF as a cleaner used to have some validity 35-40 years ago.
it had different constituents that are not used today.
The only thing nowadays is that it is thin.
So you have a leak down of a lifter
ATF as a cleaner used to have some validity 35-40 years ago.
it had different constituents that are not used today.
The only thing nowadays is that it is thin.
I knew the ATF was not going to clean anything. Just wanted some thinner oil to cut through more grime. That's all. It was only in for maybe 1500 miles total. It's gonna be okay.
Truck had maybe 5 seconds of lifter noise this morning. Maybe it's going away.
Can someone on here help me choose an over-sized filter for my 1990 Chevy K1500 5.7L TBI truck?
Truck had maybe 5 seconds of lifter noise this morning. Maybe it's going away.
Can someone on here help me choose an over-sized filter for my 1990 Chevy K1500 5.7L TBI truck?
On the ticking... have you ruled out gas? My truck can tick pretty loudly on certain brands of gas.
More than likely, all the cleaning you have done has contributed to the ticking, but that's not all bad. I'd skip all the other additives mentioned and go with some 15w40 HDEO (Chevron Delo or Rotella) and 20% MMO until summer is over.
For a filter, go with something that has high capacity and mediocre filtration. This will help eliminate the larger particles first.
More than likely, all the cleaning you have done has contributed to the ticking, but that's not all bad. I'd skip all the other additives mentioned and go with some 15w40 HDEO (Chevron Delo or Rotella) and 20% MMO until summer is over.
For a filter, go with something that has high capacity and mediocre filtration. This will help eliminate the larger particles first.
It's not the gas. I hope it will completely go away soon. If not, here comes the Kreen.
For now, I'm gonna keep running M1 10w40HM and 20% MMO. Maybe for another 3-5k miles and keep the 2,000 mile OCI's.
I think it's just gunk dissolving. Breaking loose.
For now, I'm gonna keep running M1 10w40HM and 20% MMO. Maybe for another 3-5k miles and keep the 2,000 mile OCI's.
I think it's just gunk dissolving. Breaking loose.
having owned a few 350s and the baby 4.3 i would do this and ill get flamed for it but owell. get a engine flush treatment and follow the directions then get some good ol conventional oil havoline or castrol would be my choice but whatever is fine i would get 10w30 or 10w40 old 350 like 10w40. that's it if the tick stops its not a big deal anyway.
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
having owned a few 350s and the baby 4.3 i would do this and ill get flamed for it but owell. get a engine flush treatment and follow the directions then get some good ol conventional oil havoline or castrol would be my choice but whatever is fine i would get 10w30 or 10w40 old 350 like 10w40. that's it if the tick stops its not a big deal anyway.
Thanks man. Good to hear from someone who has real chevy 350 experience. This ain't no 1-2 liter Honda engine.
Just running the M1HM because I'm doing some cleaning. Figured it might help break up more crud with all the detergents the M1 oil line has. I changed oil filter today. It was pretty dirty, but not as gross as it has been.
As soon as I get done with this MMO and M1HM oil treatment, she's gonna get a flush for sure, and then go back on a steady diet of Valvoline 10w40 conventional.
having owned a few 350s and the baby 4.3 i would do this and ill get flamed for it but owell. get a engine flush treatment and follow the directions then get some good ol conventional oil havoline or castrol would be my choice but whatever is fine i would get 10w30 or 10w40 old 350 like 10w40. that's it if the tick stops its not a big deal anyway.
Thanks man. Good to hear from someone who has real chevy 350 experience. This ain't no 1-2 liter Honda engine.
Just running the M1HM because I'm doing some cleaning. Figured it might help break up more crud with all the detergents the M1 oil line has. I changed oil filter today. It was pretty dirty, but not as gross as it has been.
As soon as I get done with this MMO and M1HM oil treatment, she's gonna get a flush for sure, and then go back on a steady diet of Valvoline 10w40 conventional.
I thought I had some lifter slap......and turned out my timing belt/tensioner was just wearing out.....could this be what you're hearing, "slack" of the timing belt/chain?
And it was weird.....cause mine would resemble a "cold start tap".....it would go away after about 20 seconds down the street......but yea, ever since I replaced the t-belt and tensioner, the "tick" or "slap" is gone now
And it was weird.....cause mine would resemble a "cold start tap".....it would go away after about 20 seconds down the street......but yea, ever since I replaced the t-belt and tensioner, the "tick" or "slap" is gone now
Originally Posted By: Phishin
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Originally Posted By: Artem
I blame the ATF fluid which was used as a "cleaner"
Yep, please don't add ATF to yousr oil. It doesn't help.
Arco, you're a riot.
Maybe it didn't help. But it didn't hurt.
Says the guy who started a thread because his engine is now ticking after his "treatment" regimen.
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Originally Posted By: Artem
I blame the ATF fluid which was used as a "cleaner"
Yep, please don't add ATF to yousr oil. It doesn't help.
Arco, you're a riot.
Maybe it didn't help. But it didn't hurt.
Says the guy who started a thread because his engine is now ticking after his "treatment" regimen.
You can adjust the lifter on this engine, not a big deal, it takes about an hour and is easy.
This video has the intake off but you can do it with intake in place. You don't need to worry about the guide plates and lock screws, you just need to take the lash out and add a turn of preload.
This video has the intake off but you can do it with intake in place. You don't need to worry about the guide plates and lock screws, you just need to take the lash out and add a turn of preload.
Originally Posted By: GatorJ
Says the guy who started a thread because his engine is now ticking after his "treatment" regimen.
ROFL!
I've had some engines that ticked BEFORE MMO, but never a tick induced by cleaning. I'd take Trav's advice and just adjust the valve lash while continuing with 3000 mile oil changes with 15-20% MMO in the crankcase. When the guy thinks he's got most of the goop out, revert to PP (or whatever decent name brand oil is in favor these days) and get on with life.
Best,
Says the guy who started a thread because his engine is now ticking after his "treatment" regimen.
ROFL!
I've had some engines that ticked BEFORE MMO, but never a tick induced by cleaning. I'd take Trav's advice and just adjust the valve lash while continuing with 3000 mile oil changes with 15-20% MMO in the crankcase. When the guy thinks he's got most of the goop out, revert to PP (or whatever decent name brand oil is in favor these days) and get on with life.
Best,
Originally Posted By: Familyguy
Originally Posted By: GatorJ
Says the guy who started a thread because his engine is now ticking after his "treatment" regimen.
ROFL!
I've had some engines that ticked BEFORE MMO, but never a tick induced by cleaning. I'd take Trav's advice and just adjust the valve lash while continuing with 3000 mile oil changes with 15-20% MMO in the crankcase. When the guy thinks he's got most of the goop out, revert to PP (or whatever decent name brand oil is in favor these days) and get on with life.
Best,
+1
Originally Posted By: GatorJ
Says the guy who started a thread because his engine is now ticking after his "treatment" regimen.
ROFL!
I've had some engines that ticked BEFORE MMO, but never a tick induced by cleaning. I'd take Trav's advice and just adjust the valve lash while continuing with 3000 mile oil changes with 15-20% MMO in the crankcase. When the guy thinks he's got most of the goop out, revert to PP (or whatever decent name brand oil is in favor these days) and get on with life.
Best,
+1
Originally Posted By: ahoier
I thought I had some lifter slap......and turned out my timing belt/tensioner was just wearing out.....could this be what you're hearing, "slack" of the timing belt/chain?
And it was weird.....cause mine would resemble a "cold start tap".....it would go away after about 20 seconds down the street......but yea, ever since I replaced the t-belt and tensioner, the "tick" or "slap" is gone now
There is no tensioner on this 1990 Chevy 350TBI. And if there was that much slack in the chain making a noise, you'be hearing a grinding noise in this truck. It's just a lifter. The noise is usually there at start up. Goes away fairly quickly.
I'm hoping that MMO is thinning the oil too much, causint the tick and once I return to straight oil (M1 10w40 HM), the oil pressure will build quicker and the tick will disappear all together.
I thought I had some lifter slap......and turned out my timing belt/tensioner was just wearing out.....could this be what you're hearing, "slack" of the timing belt/chain?
And it was weird.....cause mine would resemble a "cold start tap".....it would go away after about 20 seconds down the street......but yea, ever since I replaced the t-belt and tensioner, the "tick" or "slap" is gone now
There is no tensioner on this 1990 Chevy 350TBI. And if there was that much slack in the chain making a noise, you'be hearing a grinding noise in this truck. It's just a lifter. The noise is usually there at start up. Goes away fairly quickly.
I'm hoping that MMO is thinning the oil too much, causint the tick and once I return to straight oil (M1 10w40 HM), the oil pressure will build quicker and the tick will disappear all together.
I know this thread is starting to get a little old but I don't know what the deal with MMO is. It's just mineral oil and paint thinner.
Keep in my mind those TBI engines do not have roller lifters - they are flat tappet hydraulic, so you should be supplementing the oil with something like Redline break in oil because modern oils do not have enough ZDDP for flat tappets. Thinning out the oil MMO/ATF and reducing ZDDP level will only accelerate wear.
These trucks have gigantic filters already, I can't see using a bigger one since the regular one will take almost a quart of oil.
Keep in my mind those TBI engines do not have roller lifters - they are flat tappet hydraulic, so you should be supplementing the oil with something like Redline break in oil because modern oils do not have enough ZDDP for flat tappets. Thinning out the oil MMO/ATF and reducing ZDDP level will only accelerate wear.
These trucks have gigantic filters already, I can't see using a bigger one since the regular one will take almost a quart of oil.
Originally Posted By: Phishin
Originally Posted By: Artem
I blame the ATF fluid which was used as a "cleaner"
For a few thousand miles, I added 1 quart of ATF to 4.5 quarts of oil. Nothing outrageous. I was using the Havoline Type III, I think it's called. Or ATF +3 or something like that.
What could have that done to my engine? I doubt much. It couldn't have done anything more than dumping a quart of Seafoam in the oil, which I also did. Now I got a quart of MMO on board. Now withe MMO, I'm running M1 10-40 High Mileage.
ARCOgraphite: Are you serious?
Wait...wait...Phishin...are you saying that you put a Quart of Seafoam in the oil? Running, what, 20% seafoam? For how long?
20% ATF is bad enough (ironic that you've asked for evidence that PYB cleans, when you've bought into a set of old wives' tales about cleaning, and went out and tried them without any similar evidence that they work, and without considering the opinions of those who would caution you against them...)....but seafoam?? How much did Seafoam recommend? 1/3 of a bottle? 4 oz? and you went with 32 OZ?
You're lucky that all you have is a tick...that much Naptha and Alcohol in the oil....you could have easily thinned out the oil to the point of metal-metal contact in the key points: bearings and cam-lifter. I don't recall if the 350 that year still had teh flat-tappet cam, or if it was a roller...roller would be less likely to be damaged by solvent-thinned oil...if you're lucky, you can adjust the lash in the valve train out...if you're lucky...
Originally Posted By: Artem
I blame the ATF fluid which was used as a "cleaner"
For a few thousand miles, I added 1 quart of ATF to 4.5 quarts of oil. Nothing outrageous. I was using the Havoline Type III, I think it's called. Or ATF +3 or something like that.
What could have that done to my engine? I doubt much. It couldn't have done anything more than dumping a quart of Seafoam in the oil, which I also did. Now I got a quart of MMO on board. Now withe MMO, I'm running M1 10-40 High Mileage.
ARCOgraphite: Are you serious?
Wait...wait...Phishin...are you saying that you put a Quart of Seafoam in the oil? Running, what, 20% seafoam? For how long?
20% ATF is bad enough (ironic that you've asked for evidence that PYB cleans, when you've bought into a set of old wives' tales about cleaning, and went out and tried them without any similar evidence that they work, and without considering the opinions of those who would caution you against them...)....but seafoam?? How much did Seafoam recommend? 1/3 of a bottle? 4 oz? and you went with 32 OZ?
You're lucky that all you have is a tick...that much Naptha and Alcohol in the oil....you could have easily thinned out the oil to the point of metal-metal contact in the key points: bearings and cam-lifter. I don't recall if the 350 that year still had teh flat-tappet cam, or if it was a roller...roller would be less likely to be damaged by solvent-thinned oil...if you're lucky, you can adjust the lash in the valve train out...if you're lucky...
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Astro, I know for a fact 1990 truck have flat tappet cams. They didn't go roller on the trucks until 95 or 96 - something like that. 1990 is for sure a flat tappet though.
Originally Posted By: Phishin
Originally Posted By: ahoier
I thought I had some lifter slap......and turned out my timing belt/tensioner was just wearing out.....could this be what you're hearing, "slack" of the timing belt/chain?
And it was weird.....cause mine would resemble a "cold start tap".....it would go away after about 20 seconds down the street......but yea, ever since I replaced the t-belt and tensioner, the "tick" or "slap" is gone now
There is no tensioner on this 1990 Chevy 350TBI. And if there was that much slack in the chain making a noise, you'be hearing a grinding noise in this truck. It's just a lifter. The noise is usually there at start up. Goes away fairly quickly.
I'm hoping that MMO is thinning the oil too much, causint the tick and once I return to straight oil (M1 10w40 HM), the oil pressure will build quicker and the tick will disappear all together.
You do realize that the oil, even with MMO is still many times THICKER when cold than when it is hot and in operation?
Originally Posted By: ahoier
I thought I had some lifter slap......and turned out my timing belt/tensioner was just wearing out.....could this be what you're hearing, "slack" of the timing belt/chain?
And it was weird.....cause mine would resemble a "cold start tap".....it would go away after about 20 seconds down the street......but yea, ever since I replaced the t-belt and tensioner, the "tick" or "slap" is gone now
There is no tensioner on this 1990 Chevy 350TBI. And if there was that much slack in the chain making a noise, you'be hearing a grinding noise in this truck. It's just a lifter. The noise is usually there at start up. Goes away fairly quickly.
I'm hoping that MMO is thinning the oil too much, causint the tick and once I return to straight oil (M1 10w40 HM), the oil pressure will build quicker and the tick will disappear all together.
You do realize that the oil, even with MMO is still many times THICKER when cold than when it is hot and in operation?
I was on vacation.....LOL!!
Anyway....truc tick is only there now at warm and hot starts. The tick lasts about 20-30 seconds.
No tick in the morning.
I think it's an oil pressure/viscosity issue.
Napa 15w50 synthetic going in next.
Anyway....truc tick is only there now at warm and hot starts. The tick lasts about 20-30 seconds.
No tick in the morning.
I think it's an oil pressure/viscosity issue.
Napa 15w50 synthetic going in next.
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Originally Posted By: Astro14
Originally Posted By: Phishin
Originally Posted By: Artem
I blame the ATF fluid which was used as a "cleaner"
For a few thousand miles, I added 1 quart of ATF to 4.5 quarts of oil. Nothing outrageous. I was using the Havoline Type III, I think it's called. Or ATF +3 or something like that.
What could have that done to my engine? I doubt much. It couldn't have done anything more than dumping a quart of Seafoam in the oil, which I also did. Now I got a quart of MMO on board. Now withe MMO, I'm running M1 10-40 High Mileage.
ARCOgraphite: Are you serious?
Wait...wait...Phishin...are you saying that you put a Quart of Seafoam in the oil? Running, what, 20% seafoam? For how long?
How much did Seafoam recommend? 1/3 of a bottle? 4 oz? and you went with 32 OZ?
You're lucky that all you have is a tick...that much Naptha and Alcohol in the oil....you could have easily thinned out the oil to the point of metal-metal contact in the key points: bearings and cam-lifter. I don't recall if the 350 that year still had teh flat-tappet cam, or if it was a roller...roller would be less likely to be damaged by solvent-thinned oil...if you're lucky, you can adjust the lash in the valve train out...if you're lucky...
NO, I only used 20% MMO in the oil. Before this MMO treatments....I did add a bottle of Seafoam to the crankcase. Bottle says 1.5oz per quart of oil. I got 6 quart sump, so that's 9oz. Yeah, I over dosed a little bit. I added 16 oz. So, almost double. I ran the Seafoam for like 400-500 miles, and then changed oil. I did this twice. This was when I was doing short OCI's (800 miles)....to clean quickly, yet fairly gently at the beginning since there was a lot of crud in the motor when I bought the truck.
Originally Posted By: Phishin
Originally Posted By: Artem
I blame the ATF fluid which was used as a "cleaner"
For a few thousand miles, I added 1 quart of ATF to 4.5 quarts of oil. Nothing outrageous. I was using the Havoline Type III, I think it's called. Or ATF +3 or something like that.
What could have that done to my engine? I doubt much. It couldn't have done anything more than dumping a quart of Seafoam in the oil, which I also did. Now I got a quart of MMO on board. Now withe MMO, I'm running M1 10-40 High Mileage.
ARCOgraphite: Are you serious?
Wait...wait...Phishin...are you saying that you put a Quart of Seafoam in the oil? Running, what, 20% seafoam? For how long?
How much did Seafoam recommend? 1/3 of a bottle? 4 oz? and you went with 32 OZ?
You're lucky that all you have is a tick...that much Naptha and Alcohol in the oil....you could have easily thinned out the oil to the point of metal-metal contact in the key points: bearings and cam-lifter. I don't recall if the 350 that year still had teh flat-tappet cam, or if it was a roller...roller would be less likely to be damaged by solvent-thinned oil...if you're lucky, you can adjust the lash in the valve train out...if you're lucky...
NO, I only used 20% MMO in the oil. Before this MMO treatments....I did add a bottle of Seafoam to the crankcase. Bottle says 1.5oz per quart of oil. I got 6 quart sump, so that's 9oz. Yeah, I over dosed a little bit. I added 16 oz. So, almost double. I ran the Seafoam for like 400-500 miles, and then changed oil. I did this twice. This was when I was doing short OCI's (800 miles)....to clean quickly, yet fairly gently at the beginning since there was a lot of crud in the motor when I bought the truck.
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