MMO, again

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70% Light Aromatic Oil (Pale Oil)
- It is a Naphthenic Oil, so while it oxidizes faster than a Paraffinic oil, it does clean and dissolve sludge and carbon well and cleans up after itself from any oxidation. serves as base oil as well. [Naphthenic oils have more solvency and are more polar (they are attracted to metal more), but oxidize faster.

29% Mineral Spirits
- Cleans Varnish very well. General cleaner. Also acts as an antioxidant.

38 parts per million (ppm) Boron
- AW/EP agent, friction reducer, antioxidant

900 ppm Phosporous
- AW/EP agent

1/2% 1, 2 ortho-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

1/4% 1, 4 para-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

Oil of wintergreen - for the scent
- Not just for the cent, is also a cleaner. may aid lubricity.

Red Dye - for the color
- well this one just colors the stuff

------------------------

I copied and pasted the above, its been mentioned here a number of times.
 
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FXJohn demarpaint probably knows more about MMO than anybody else here. He has been using it for almost 40 years. He can tell you what the various ingredients do.
 
Originally Posted By: Mystic
FXJohn demarpaint probably knows more about MMO than anybody else here. He has been using it for almost 40 years. He can tell you what the various ingredients do.


LOL I copied and pasted it, it was covered about a dozen times before. I guess things were quiet here, and we needed someone to stir the pot. Lets see where this heads, and what the blast from the past has to say.........I feel he's gearing up.
 
What surprised me was when FXJohn did not seem to understand the relationship between Turtle Wax and MMO. But he said that he used MMO.

And you are right. Somebody seems to be gearing up. I guess he has enough posts now.
 
Originally Posted By: Mystic


And you are right. Somebody seems to be gearing up. I guess he has enough posts now.


Or a new name and IP address lined up if he gets booted again. LOL
 
But he can't go back to his original user name he used here and that he loves so much, using it all over the internet. I was happy he loved that user name so much. It made it easy to follow him all over the internet.
 
Trolling.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Mystic
FXJohn demarpaint probably knows more about MMO than anybody else here. He has been using it for almost 40 years. He can tell you what the various ingredients do.


Cool, I'd love to hear more
 
Originally Posted By: FXjohn
Originally Posted By: Mystic
FXJohn demarpaint probably knows more about MMO than anybody else here. He has been using it for almost 40 years. He can tell you what the various ingredients do.


Cool, I'd love to hear more


How do the various ingredients react with the add packs of the various oils it's dumped in?
 
Good point. We know that oil is formulated as a complete package and the oil manufacturers do not recommend additives.

They themselves make oils that are designed to clean, usually HM oil. So why not use what's already been formulated to clean and protect?

I certainly don't understand people who add it when there is no problem. Now if you have a problem then choosing an additive when one has some understanding of the cause and effect is more understandable.

Lastly, how many people use it and unwittingly thin their oil? There are some big complainers here about thin oil yet some of them use it and recommend MMO without mentioning that fact. In my opinion those who recommend it need to be more responsible and qualify both that the vehicle and oil manufacturer do not recommend MMO and that it could put your oil at the wrong viscosity.
 
had lifter tick in an old 78 nova years ago, thing had ton of miles on it, all but dead,used MMO, quieted engine down, drove it for almost a year before it retired due too rust and transmission blowout. cannot say it worked too make it last longer but before adding it was a noisy wreck with no power about too die and i give credit too luck and MMO for buying me a year of saving money for my next ride.... i know alot ofguys who use it in engines with no present problems, not sure why, just local redneckology around here....

i havent used it since then so, cannot say if its still able too do the miracles it claims.....
 
Originally Posted By: Whimsey
Totally unscientific but I added MMO to the oil of a neglected 1985 Golf that had a valve tick. It did clear up the valve tick. Changed the oil and kept up on the oil changes with dino and never had any more problems with valve train noises.


My 1972 MGB-GT had a voracious appetite for valves - I had burned the factory set at 20,000 miles. A machinist suggested MMO (good advice!) and a Marvel Inverse Oiler (this man was a saint!)

No more burned valves - the second set was going strong at 100,000 miles. The real villains in this story were the smog pump and the fact that Abingdon had not upgraded their valve material. Removing the smog pump (I did that later) and/or upgrading the valve steel might have solved this problem. On the plus side, the vehicle always ran with about 10psi greater compression when fed a diet of MMO. What's not to like?
 
Originally Posted By: FXjohn
didn't there used to be a marvel mystery oil bath cooler for the air filter?


I've never seen one and I've seen several catalogs of MM oilers and seen many of their other products over 50 years. I'd like to say I've seen all of their products, but I know better.

A few months ago I saw for the first time a picture of a 1-gallon oiler - a model that was manufactured for Chrysler or some car company. Now-a-days, it's hard to imagine an engine compartment with so much free space that you could fit this monster in.
 
Originally Posted By: dave5358
Originally Posted By: Whimsey
Totally unscientific but I added MMO to the oil of a neglected 1985 Golf that had a valve tick. It did clear up the valve tick. Changed the oil and kept up on the oil changes with dino and never had any more problems with valve train noises.


My 1972 MGB-GT had a voracious appetite for valves - I had burned the factory set at 20,000 miles. A machinist suggested MMO (good advice!) and a Marvel Inverse Oiler (this man was a saint!)

No more burned valves - the second set was going strong at 100,000 miles. The real villains in this story were the smog pump and the fact that Abingdon had not upgraded their valve material. Removing the smog pump (I did that later) and/or upgrading the valve steel might have solved this problem. On the plus side, the vehicle always ran with about 10psi greater compression when fed a diet of MMO. What's not to like?


Yep, it wasn't until around 74 that the British Leyland folks figued out that newfangled unleaded fuel! That was the year I got a MGB-GT and discovered it felt like it had about 45 hp! Man, that poor thing was anemic, those older style engines did NOT like emissions controls!
 
Originally Posted By: dave5358
Originally Posted By: Whimsey
Totally unscientific but I added MMO to the oil of a neglected 1985 Golf that had a valve tick. It did clear up the valve tick. Changed the oil and kept up on the oil changes with dino and never had any more problems with valve train noises.


My 1972 MGB-GT had a voracious appetite for valves - I had burned the factory set at 20,000 miles. A machinist suggested MMO (good advice!) and a Marvel Inverse Oiler (this man was a saint!)

No more burned valves - the second set was going strong at 100,000 miles. The real villains in this story were the smog pump and the fact that Abingdon had not upgraded their valve material. Removing the smog pump (I did that later) and/or upgrading the valve steel might have solved this problem. On the plus side, the vehicle always ran with about 10psi greater compression when fed a diet of MMO. What's not to like?


I've got an inverse oiler on my 5.0. I cannot say any bad thus far
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy


I've got an inverse oiler on my 5.0. I cannot say any bad thus far


I've been using one of the original MMO inverse oilers since 1984 I think.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Yep, it wasn't until around 74 that the British Leyland folks figued out that newfangled unleaded fuel! That was the year I got a MGB-GT and discovered it felt like it had about 45 hp! Man, that poor thing was anemic, those older style engines did NOT like emissions controls!


Smog pumps were pretty much a disaster across the board. Pumping air onto red-hot valves is just not a good idea.

My '72 ran quite well and the engine was very peppy - no complaints, considering that it was an engine pretty much designed in 1937 and unhampered by progress ;-). On the downside, you needed to pull 'honest maintenance' on the vehicle every weekend. The SU carbs needed cleaning frequently and rebuilding every other year. I added an electric fan I ordered from England. I had an Africa-spec'd distributor with a solid state module from a Mercury Capri. Finally I added a very large Mallory sports coil - my plugs were gapped around .050".

I was living in a 'vehicle inspection' state at the time but the smog inspection was a visual check only and the inspectors just gawked at the B engine - they had no clue as to what was supposed to be there. Removing the smog manifold was easy - just plug the holes. But I had to remove the coolant outlet elbow and carefully grind off the smog-pump bracket - unused mounting brackets were a good way to attract unwanted attention.

Let's see, back then Judson Corporation made a supercharger for this engine... now that's what I really needed ;-)
 
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