mixing PYB with PUP will give me semi-synthetic?

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Originally Posted By: 4WD
If you want extra seal conditioners in a new engine ...


SN/GF-5 set parameters on this too, so there is no more seal-conditioner in Maxlife than what is allowable to meet cert. Quite possibly and understandably at the higher end of said parameters.
 
"Special seal conditioners" is what they advertise - let's be clear: on BITOG - DO NOT mention HM oil unless it is MaxLife - it belongs in new cars too. Anything else is just marketing. Have a nice day.
 
In your original assertion you said "extra seal conditioners". I was addressing that, not what is advertised as "special seal conditioners." Maxlife is a good product as are the various other HM oils. I make no distinctions. It's not just VML, any SN/GF-5 certified HM oil can be used in new vehicles.
 
Oh - OK. regardless they have a punch list of "marketing" things they claim with this oil. Seal (whatever) is one.
They rejuvenate seals to prevent oil leaks ...
Still, it is a "High Mileage" oil. My own thoughts on HM is out of warranty - so give me A3/B3 at that point.

I think they found a catchy name since Valvoline was not doing so well with VSP - what I have used in new motors ...
 
Why not buy an oil that's already synthetic blend and make it easier? Seems like that's a huge pain in the rear considering Pennzoil has a nice selection of synthetic blends to choose from already...
 
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Oh - OK. regardless they have a punch list of "marketing" things they claim with this oil. Seal (whatever) is one.
They rejuvenate seals to prevent oil leaks ...
Still, it is a "High Mileage" oil. My own thoughts on HM is out of warranty - so give me A3/B3 at that point.

I think they found a catchy name since Valvoline was not doing so well with VSP - what I have used in new motors ...

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Originally Posted By: Curtis Newton
Originally Posted By: HKPolice
Originally Posted By: KingCake
50/50 is the worst way to make a blend. You should either have a majority of conventional or a majority of synthetic.


This is the only correct post here. Mixing your own oil is never a good idea because you don't know how the different additives will react with each other. Off the shelf semi synthetic oils are made from scratch using additives tailored for a mixed base stock.

For example: Group2 base stock has a lower VI than Group3, so a conventional oil will need more VII than a synthetic oil to reach 5w30 grade.
If you mix conventional 5w30 with synthetic 5w30 then the final grade could be more like a 10w40 because the extra VII from the dino oil will thicken up the synthetic base stock.

Sure, the homebrew mix will work fine but it'll be inferior to off the shelf semi synthetics with an unpredictable viscosity.


I intend to take another sample at 215k, but according to Blackstone the homebrew mix at the 155k oil change looks pretty good (see below). Viscosity looks about right.

I break all of the rules in that I change my oil filter every other change, use a Fumoto valve, mix my own oil and add in 4oz of Tufoil.

As a side note, the early couple of changes were Mobil 1.




This is easy to explain:

1) UOA is from an ES330 with 3MZ-FE engine, 1 of the lowest stressed engines made by Toyota.
2) Interval was only 5K, any oil can survive that with flying colors, even bulk generic dino.
3) Mixing PP & PYB is one of the most predictable brews because they're the same brand and use the same type of additives (Calcium). If you mix different brands with different add packs, the end result won't be so favorable when pushing the limits (10K+ miles).

I think your UOA actually looks pretty bad because the TBN is already low @ 2.3 after only 5K miles. Most off the shelf blends won't reach that level until 7-8K. Also, it has technically sheared out of grade. The minimum for SAE 30 weight is 9.3cST, this oil is already at 9.12cST after only 5K miles.

So in summary, yes you broke the rules but wear numbers still look normal due to the short interval & easy on oil engine. Still, this mix doesn't look any better than off the shelf blends due to poor TBN retention & high shear rate.
 
Originally Posted By: HKPolice
I think your UOA actually looks pretty bad because the TBN is already low @ 2.3 after only 5K miles. Most off the shelf blends won't reach that level until 7-8K. Also, it has technically sheared out of grade. The minimum for SAE 30 weight is 9.3cST, this oil is already at 9.12cST after only 5K miles.

So in summary, yes you broke the rules but wear numbers still look normal due to the short interval & easy on oil engine. Still, this mix doesn't look any better than off the shelf blends due to poor TBN retention & high shear rate.



The Mobil 1 5W30 run at 6,640 miles had a TBN of 2.7; I would argue that the 3MZ-FE is actually hard on oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: Curtis Newton
Originally Posted By: HKPolice
I think your UOA actually looks pretty bad because the TBN is already low @ 2.3 after only 5K miles. Most off the shelf blends won't reach that level until 7-8K. Also, it has technically sheared out of grade. The minimum for SAE 30 weight is 9.3cST, this oil is already at 9.12cST after only 5K miles.

So in summary, yes you broke the rules but wear numbers still look normal due to the short interval & easy on oil engine. Still, this mix doesn't look any better than off the shelf blends due to poor TBN retention & high shear rate.



The Mobil 1 5W30 run at 6,640 miles had a TBN of 2.7; I would argue that the 3MZ-FE is actually hard on oil.


I need to correct one of my posts above. I keep a booklet of maintenance and the 155k maintenance was Pennzoil High Mileage 5W30 conventional with 4oz Tufoil.

I didn't start the synthetic blend until 179k when I had the rear main seal replaced.

So, the TBN @ 2.3 was Pennzoil HM conventional.

My apology for the mis-information.

I will send off a sample at 215k and it will be the Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage/Pennzoil High Mileage mix.
 
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Originally Posted By: 4WD
"Special seal conditioners" is what they advertise - let's be clear: on BITOG - DO NOT mention HM oil unless it is MaxLife - it belongs in new cars too. Anything else is just marketing. Have a nice day.

In fairness, there are a few more SN/GF-5 HM oils these days. Some, like myself, would say there are too many of them.
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Mobil Super 2000 (a Canadian HM oil) was SM/GF-4 before MaxLife even switched to ILSAC.
 
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