Because it calls for 5.1 . If you get 5.10 back from a cashier and she only gives you 5, your getting short changed.
mixing PYB with PUP will give me semi-synthetic?
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Originally Posted By: Thugzy
My local CT does not carry any more semi-synthetics on the shelf.
They carry no MaxLife or Castrol HM? That's peculiar.
My local CT does not carry any more semi-synthetics on the shelf.
They carry no MaxLife or Castrol HM? That's peculiar.
Originally Posted By: Farmer
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Thugzy
My local CT does not carry any more semi-synthetics on the shelf.
They carry no MaxLife or Castrol HM? That's peculiar.
CT should have QS Defy and Castrol HM.
as well as MotoMaster F1 high mileage...
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Thugzy
My local CT does not carry any more semi-synthetics on the shelf.
They carry no MaxLife or Castrol HM? That's peculiar.
CT should have QS Defy and Castrol HM.
as well as MotoMaster F1 high mileage...
What's wrong with a 50/50 blend? I do that in my wife's car with supertech when the jugs go on sale (buy online, pick up in store.). 2.5 QTS conventional and 2.5 QTS synthetic. I did that based on knowing that Pennzoil Gold is a 50/50 blend. Just curious what the science is behind not doing that?
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Just a stocking question since you have a new vehicle ...
I do wonder why (in other threads) we see folks suggest MaxLife in vehicles not likely to need HM ...
Then some think HM is hype - but looking at HTHS & ZDDP in same brand/grade - it is tough stuff when used right.
I do wonder why (in other threads) we see folks suggest MaxLife in vehicles not likely to need HM ...
Then some think HM is hype - but looking at HTHS & ZDDP in same brand/grade - it is tough stuff when used right.
Originally Posted By: Urshurak776
What's wrong with a 50/50 blend? I do that in my wife's car with supertech when the jugs go on sale (buy online, pick up in store.). 2.5 QTS conventional and 2.5 QTS synthetic. I did that based on knowing that Pennzoil Gold is a 50/50 blend. Just curious what the science is behind not doing that?
I am also interested in that.
I have run a 50/50 mix using PYB and PP for quite some time ... our RX330 has 210,XXX miles on it.
I prefer to mix my own versus OTC where you may/may not know the exact content of conventional vs synthetic.
What's wrong with a 50/50 blend? I do that in my wife's car with supertech when the jugs go on sale (buy online, pick up in store.). 2.5 QTS conventional and 2.5 QTS synthetic. I did that based on knowing that Pennzoil Gold is a 50/50 blend. Just curious what the science is behind not doing that?
I am also interested in that.
I have run a 50/50 mix using PYB and PP for quite some time ... our RX330 has 210,XXX miles on it.
I prefer to mix my own versus OTC where you may/may not know the exact content of conventional vs synthetic.
Same here, I mix 50/50 PYB and PP in my F150's 3.7 and Pontiac Vibe 1.8
Originally Posted By: Marco620
Because it calls for 5.1 . If you get 5.10 back from a cashier and she only gives you 5, your getting short changed.
It may call for 5.1 qt, but even the add mark on the dipstick is below that 5.1 it calls for, and one doesn't need to add makeup oil until the level reaches the add mark. That area between the full mark and the add mark is the safe zone. If 5 qts gets you over the add mark, it is good. measuring out 5.1 qt for a oil change is about as anal retentive as it gets. The engine is not going to know the difference. Your cashier analogy does not even remotely apply.
Because it calls for 5.1 . If you get 5.10 back from a cashier and she only gives you 5, your getting short changed.
It may call for 5.1 qt, but even the add mark on the dipstick is below that 5.1 it calls for, and one doesn't need to add makeup oil until the level reaches the add mark. That area between the full mark and the add mark is the safe zone. If 5 qts gets you over the add mark, it is good. measuring out 5.1 qt for a oil change is about as anal retentive as it gets. The engine is not going to know the difference. Your cashier analogy does not even remotely apply.
Originally Posted By: Thugzy
Oh my bad then, I didn't know HM was semi
Yes, most are. I haven't seen a non-HM oil marketed as a synthetic blend at Canadian Tire for a very, very long time. We pay enough for oil here that a simple synthetic blend might be a hard sell, both to customers and for shelf space.
Oh my bad then, I didn't know HM was semi
Yes, most are. I haven't seen a non-HM oil marketed as a synthetic blend at Canadian Tire for a very, very long time. We pay enough for oil here that a simple synthetic blend might be a hard sell, both to customers and for shelf space.
Originally Posted By: 4WD
I do wonder why (in other threads) we see folks suggest MaxLife in vehicles not likely to need HM ...
MaxLife is SN/GF-5 and dexos1, at least in the correct grades, so it's certainly appropriate for new vehicles and might be a cost effective dexos1 option for some.
I do wonder why (in other threads) we see folks suggest MaxLife in vehicles not likely to need HM ...
MaxLife is SN/GF-5 and dexos1, at least in the correct grades, so it's certainly appropriate for new vehicles and might be a cost effective dexos1 option for some.
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
If you want extra seal conditioners in a new engine ...
Originally Posted By: KingCake
50/50 is the worst way to make a blend. You should either have a majority of conventional or a majority of synthetic.
This is the only correct post here. Mixing your own oil is never a good idea because you don't know how the different additives will react with each other. Off the shelf semi synthetic oils are made from scratch using additives tailored for a mixed base stock.
For example: Group2 base stock has a lower VI than Group3, so a conventional oil will need more VII than a synthetic oil to reach 5w30 grade.
If you mix conventional 5w30 with synthetic 5w30 then the final grade could be more like a 10w40 because the extra VII from the dino oil will thicken up the synthetic base stock.
Sure, the homebrew mix will work fine but it'll be inferior to off the shelf semi synthetics with an unpredictable viscosity.
50/50 is the worst way to make a blend. You should either have a majority of conventional or a majority of synthetic.
This is the only correct post here. Mixing your own oil is never a good idea because you don't know how the different additives will react with each other. Off the shelf semi synthetic oils are made from scratch using additives tailored for a mixed base stock.
For example: Group2 base stock has a lower VI than Group3, so a conventional oil will need more VII than a synthetic oil to reach 5w30 grade.
If you mix conventional 5w30 with synthetic 5w30 then the final grade could be more like a 10w40 because the extra VII from the dino oil will thicken up the synthetic base stock.
Sure, the homebrew mix will work fine but it'll be inferior to off the shelf semi synthetics with an unpredictable viscosity.
So much mis information here. Just WOW
Originally Posted By: HKPolice
Originally Posted By: KingCake
50/50 is the worst way to make a blend. You should either have a majority of conventional or a majority of synthetic.
This is the only correct post here. Mixing your own oil is never a good idea because you don't know how the different additives will react with each other. Off the shelf semi synthetic oils are made from scratch using additives tailored for a mixed base stock.
For example: Group2 base stock has a lower VI than Group3, so a conventional oil will need more VII than a synthetic oil to reach 5w30 grade.
If you mix conventional 5w30 with synthetic 5w30 then the final grade could be more like a 10w40 because the extra VII from the dino oil will thicken up the synthetic base stock.
Sure, the homebrew mix will work fine but it'll be inferior to off the shelf semi synthetics with an unpredictable viscosity.
I intend to take another sample at 215k, but according to Blackstone the homebrew mix at the 155k oil change looks pretty good (see below). Viscosity looks about right.
I break all of the rules in that I change my oil filter every other change, use a Fumoto valve, mix my own oil and add in 4oz of Tufoil.
As a side note, the early couple of changes were Mobil 1.
Originally Posted By: KingCake
50/50 is the worst way to make a blend. You should either have a majority of conventional or a majority of synthetic.
This is the only correct post here. Mixing your own oil is never a good idea because you don't know how the different additives will react with each other. Off the shelf semi synthetic oils are made from scratch using additives tailored for a mixed base stock.
For example: Group2 base stock has a lower VI than Group3, so a conventional oil will need more VII than a synthetic oil to reach 5w30 grade.
If you mix conventional 5w30 with synthetic 5w30 then the final grade could be more like a 10w40 because the extra VII from the dino oil will thicken up the synthetic base stock.
Sure, the homebrew mix will work fine but it'll be inferior to off the shelf semi synthetics with an unpredictable viscosity.
I intend to take another sample at 215k, but according to Blackstone the homebrew mix at the 155k oil change looks pretty good (see below). Viscosity looks about right.
I break all of the rules in that I change my oil filter every other change, use a Fumoto valve, mix my own oil and add in 4oz of Tufoil.
As a side note, the early couple of changes were Mobil 1.
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LOL!
why not just use the house brand synthetic?
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