Mid 90's Avalon?

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Several weeks ago I noticed a beige Toyota for sale, in a part of town I don't normally drive around; it's still there, and I happened to be, so I stopped. Looks like mid to late 90's (only info was phone # on the FS sign). Mechanical odo says 136k. Other than a crusty fuel filler neck, it was rather clean underneath, no rust topside, and hardly any underneath (like, very low). Cloth interior, some stains, but of course no owner so I couldn't get far. Typical scratches and wear for a 20 year old car. I think it's been sale for 3 or 4 months now that I think about it--strike one?

Best I can tell, it's low 30's for highway mpg (all I'm interested in), and only available with the infamous sludger 3.0 V6 & automatic. Timing belt motor, and a V6 at that, two things I've wanted to avoid; probably 1996 or newer, so OBDII (and its attendant emission enforcement). Strike 2?

Is it worth calling on? No CL ad, so I've got zero other info on this.

I kinda want a Corolla for cheaper parts, purchase and mpg; but this is in my backyard, as opposed to towing something home from down south. Even still, when I do go down south, should I bother looking at Avalon (or V6 Camry), or just rule them out on the basis of sludge issues?
 
'99 1MZ-FE owner here. Excellent engines, and I certainly wouldn't avoid one due to whatever preconceived sludge notions you possess.

What are you doing today? Bring a OBD scanner and report back with what you've discovered.
 
Well, I was planning on being home and messing around in the basement. I could look and find my code reader.

Ironically Ramblejam, I head to KY in a week.
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Lexington area, near the Toyota plant. I forget the name of the town, I look up the address before I go, and put it into the gps.
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Visiting family over the holidays, just a quick trip.
 
These engines only sludge if really abused/neglected. They are excellent - we have one in an 02 Lexus. There's an oil splash baffle under the filler cap so it is unfortunate you can't visualize more of the valve train that way, though. The car runs like new and looks great, and it turned 1/4 million miles last week. Of course, I maintain the heck out of it, but if you do that it can last to 300k, 400k without serious trouble.

The timing belts on these are good for 90k easily and not that hard to do, and a great negotiating point if it's not been done.
 
Depends if the price is right. Hopefully maintenance records, no accidents, how long have they owned it etc...

I'd have a professional look it over including the undercarriage from under a lift.
 
The Avalon of that era is a blown out Gen 3 Camry with many interchangeable parts. Sort of a Japanese Buick. It was a hedge for Toyota who thought there was about to be a big tax imposed on imported luxo wagons. Since the Avalon is built on a Kentucky Camry assembly line the thought was it could be relabeled as a Lexus, but made in USA. The Gen 3 Camry built from 92 to 96 is considered a VERY well made car, although advances in design and materials have improved interior room and performance though not basic quality. The car caught on and is still around. I rented a later version with a "sport" package which was VERY nice. However, unless I find a really good used one at a good price I will stick with the Camry size.
 
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You can get the model year from the vin, or run the license plate through walkerexhaust.com or look underneath for the rear oxygen sensor, a dead giveaway for obd ii
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
'99 1MZ-FE owner here. Excellent engines, and I certainly wouldn't avoid one due to whatever preconceived sludge notions you possess.

What are you doing today? Bring a OBD scanner and report back with what you've discovered.


I had a 98 Sienna with the same motor. The only way to check for sludge would be to remove the front valve cover which takes about 10 minutes to do. You can also check the PCV valve to see if it looks clean and that the ball rattles inside the PCV valve. Neglect of the PCV system is usually the contributing factor to sludge in those engines.

That car if in good shape can run for a long time.
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Originally Posted By: Oro_O
These engines only sludge if really abused/neglected. They are excellent - we have one in an 02 Lexus. There's an oil splash baffle under the filler cap so it is unfortunate you can't visualize more of the valve train that way, though. The car runs like new and looks great, and it turned 1/4 million miles last week. Of course, I maintain the heck out of it, but if you do that it can last to 300k, 400k without serious trouble.

The timing belts on these are good for 90k easily and not that hard to do, and a great negotiating point if it's not been done.


+1, the 1MZ-FE is a great engine when maintained. Good for half-a-million miles easy. Incredibly smooth and quiet engine, with good power for what it is.
 
It's simple to decode the year from the VIN which should be visible through the windshield on the dash. The 10th digit is the year.


Code Year Code Year Code Year Code Year
A 1980 L 1990 Y 2000 A 2010
B 1981 M 1991 1 2001 B 2011
C 1982 N 1992 2 2002 C 2012
D 1983 P 1993 3 2003 D 2013
E 1984 R 1994 4 2004 E 2014
F 1985 S 1995 5 2005 F 2015
G 1986 T 1996 6 2006 G 2016
H 1987 V 1997 7 2007 H 2017
J 1988 W 1998 8 2008 J 2018
K 1989 X 1999 9 2009 K 2019
 
Went back and looked. The much desirable "S" (for 1995) was there.

Of course it wasn't until I was home that I realized I should have checked the inspection sticker. Regardless, I know it won't pass. Rotted fuel line, possibly same on brake lines. Leaking engine oil, like blown rear main seal--oil nearly down the length of the car.

I don't need a project car going into winter. But oh so close!
 
Darn man.. My step father has a 96 Avalon that's near 300k miles. It's been an AWESOME car. No oil leaks, good power V6, all electronics still work, rides very well. I borrowed it when my lady's car blew up last yr. That car was really in great shape. I actually had it for a year when my Sentra stopped running. I enjoyed that Avalon a lot. I changed the oil in it every 5k with Castrol w titanium gold bottle.

Yes sir your are right to stay away from that major project car... The Avalon that my step father got from my brother in law had 156k miles on it when he got it. And it was in mint condition. Unlike the one in this instance for you. Darn.
 
It's something to consider, the sludge years were 97+ so it isn't a sludge monster. My brother has a 96 Lexus ES300, basically the same car. It's been pretty good, has some issues lately but it was purchased from an auction, the car was literally used to smuggle illegal immigrants across the border from Mexico and was impounded by border patrol, it hasn't had a well loved life.

Consider the Lexus models too, they're surprisingly cheap and mechanically a Camry so all parts are dirt cheap.

His burns a ton of oil from being neglected, but at 80 mph driving from Montana to Arizona it got almost 29 mpg, will get over 30 if slowed down.

They're also stupid easy to work on.
 
I think I would stay away from anything 20 years old unless you know the history. Anything that hints at trouble I would just pass and get something newer.
 
Originally Posted By: Silverado12
I think I would stay away from anything 20 years old unless you know the history. Anything that hints at trouble I would just pass and get something newer.


Newer can be just as problematic, if not moreso. Reason being, State of NH requires OBDII checks on 1996 and newer. Meaning, all the built in tests must pass, and all readiness codes set, in order to pass inspection. Gas cap gone bad? Evap system got issues? Catalyst efficiency not as good as it used to be? EGR not working? Gotta fix all that.

I keep forgetting if I can pass inspection on a pre-1996 vehicle if the check engine light is on.

I'd love to go and drop $10k on a 3-5 year old whatever, but even that will need repairs in short order. If not rust related then wear related.
 
I think you'd really like the 2.2 in the Camrys, not quick but good engines and loads of room under the hood, good mpg too.
 
I suspect I'd like the 2.2 also. Timing belt ought to be less work, one less cam sprocket to deal with.

This has been listed for a while, and... right price, rust is setting in, but man I can't get past the looks. What were they thinking? Would also have to fix those windows, although I'm guessing that can't be that hard.

Really need to shop down south. By the time rust is visible on the wheelwells it is quite crispy underneath.
 
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