Mevotech TTX any good?

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Sep 18, 2018
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Kern Co. California
Hello, I have a '03 GMC that could use an upper control arm replacement (bushings worn). I saw on the wonderful YouTube, 1Road use Mevotech TTX parts on his vehicle and was considering them for my truck. Anyone use them? Any feedback? The OEM ones seem to be discontinued.

Thank you.
 
mevotech is decent, their parts have lasted me over 50k miles. i get the heavy duty extreme upgrade ones though
 
Unless the OE part used grease fittings, I avoid them at all costs.

... but does this GMC even have the BJ integral to the UCA?

I'd always pick a relubable BJ on a truck or suv if it's an equal quality brand. Just have to make sure you do lube them every once in a while.

What are the other UCA choices on Rock Auto and elsewhere? Why not know the specific GMC model?

I'd consider the Mevotech TTX to be better than generics but usually not the best choice available.
 
I was planning to use the TTX line... I do see on Rock Auto a GM Genuine one PN 25905442 for $147 listed in the daily driver category. The Premium category shows the Mevotech TTX CTXMS20360 for $88... Seems crazy a "premium" part is that much less..
 
^ Premium could have something to do with their profit margin, as well as anything offered under the OEM name has that OEM's middleman markup compared to what you'd pay if you knew the actual manufacturer and part #, if that's available so could just buy that instead. This is a reason I hate buying OEM for parts that OEM did not make.

At the same time, I doubt the Mevotech is better quality than the GM but that's not saying much. It's GM. ;) To be fair and relevant to the topic, getting 20 years out of a bushing for a truck or SUV (depending on load/use) is not bad, but when they outsource to certain countries for the rubber (bushings), which even the OEM may do after the primary production run is finished, they seem to self-destruct faster. Country of origin for every subcomponent is something I'd like to see more of. If they want to sell parts, then SELL me on them.

On the other hand, relevant to another topic on BITOG, what if it doesn't last as long but still lasts longer than whatever else on the vehicle puts it in the grave? Then lower cost without severe quality decline makes sense. In that context, on a 20 year old vehicle, I might choose their TTX part to save that much money... also depends on whether you DIY, so you aren't paying again for labor, and if it's a part where if you replace it, you don't need to pay for an alignment since that's another ~$100 every time, and an arguably good reason to just replace entire suspension sets at a time instead of piecemeal, and then only get one alignment when that's completed.
 
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mevotech is decent, their parts have lasted me over 50k miles. i get the heavy duty extreme upgrade ones though

Is the heavy duty extream upgrade a step above the Mevotech TTX! What is the exact name of​

the heavy duty extream upgrade line? The TTX did look like a pretty nice control arm. To me it looks like there would be room to just cut that stud down a little bit the taper appear to be the same length and everything as the old one.​

As long as the hole for the cotter pin would still line up with the castle nut.​

 
I wouldn't run the regular Mevotech, but the TTX seem to be pretty good and better than what Moog has devolved into.
It does look like a well made control arm in that video above, with the exception of the stud being a little bit too long. I'll bet you could have cut that stud down with a cut off wheel no problem as long as the cotter pin would still line up with the castle nut.
 
^ Premium could have something to do with their profit margin, as well as anything offered under the OEM name has that OEM's middleman markup compared to what you'd pay if you knew the actual manufacturer and part #, if that's available so could just buy that instead. This is a reason I hate buying OEM for parts that OEM did not make.

At the same time, I doubt the Mevotech is better quality than the GM but that's not saying much. It's GM. ;) To be fair and relevant to the topic, getting 20 years out of a bushing for a truck or SUV (depending on load/use) is not bad, but when they outsource to certain countries for the rubber (bushings), which even the OEM may do after the primary production run is finished, they seem to self-destruct faster. Country of origin for every subcomponent is something I'd like to see more of. If they want to sell parts, then SELL me on them.

On the other hand, relevant to another topic on BITOG, what if it doesn't last as long but still lasts longer than whatever else on the vehicle puts it in the grave? Then lower cost without severe quality decline makes sense. In that context, on a 20 year old vehicle, I might choose their TTX part to save that much money... also depends on whether you DIY, so you aren't paying again for labor, and if it's a part where if you replace it, you don't need to pay for an alignment since that's another ~$100 every time, and an arguably good reason to just replace entire suspension sets at a time instead of piecemeal, and then only get one alignment when that's completed.
Yes good points Dave.
I think if it were me I'd take a chance on that mevotec TTX.
I don't know how the OP's GMC is set up, how the bushings are attached to the frame, on it on his upper control arm, but I know like on my 01 Grand Prix the lower control arms in my case would not affect the alignment.
 
I actually ended up using Detroit Axle lower control arms on my 01 Grand Prix.
They look to be made pretty well.
I've been running them for over a year now with no issue albeit I don't put too many miles on the car these days.
 
 
I used the TTX lower ball joints on my Charger since these cars wear out front ends quickly. I had put basic part store ball joints in before that just wear out in 3 years or so. Or at least, show enough wear that I’ll change them out. (Read: O’Reilly’s).

The TTX I put in have that green epoxy coating and are heavy duty compared to the regular ones. They went in with little effort using my 20 ton press, and still feel solid to this day.

I would run them vs. paying the OEM premium. I understand why a shop would recommend OEM… they don’t want a comeback and the chances are higher with an unknown. Go with the lower risk part. 🙂

If there is any fault with the Charger front suspension now, it’s likely the inexpensive strut bearings I used. So I’ll be doing that sometime soon.
 
I appreciate all the feedback. I am planning on doing the work myself, I have a little mechanical aptitude. After it unfortunately will need an alignment which I will have to take it to a shop to perform.
 
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