Measure twice, cut once - stud replacement issues...

[JHZR2]

This is a skill question, thus why I made it its own thread...

I’m replacing a Good portion of the rear sill plate on my 10 bay garage, as some of it has termite damage. No signs of termites anywhere anymore, but want to get new plate in. The foundation is a block trench type, so I’m grouting 10” L bolts in the right spots to code. A few studs had termite damage going up them, what Ive found to be easiest is to just cut off the studs a few inches up, then sister a new stud right next to it. I may put a piece in under the old stud for more support, tbd... bigger fish to fry.

So, the issue is measuring the replacement stud length. Ive tried to just use a tape, and curve it over at the top, and guesstimate. Ive used the trick where I know the measuring tape body length, and add that to the measurement. Neither are accurate. I end up a little long every time, and then have to shave off 1/16 or 1/32 at a time. Very slow and inefficient. It’s never a lot of material, it’s just that they’re never consistent, and always by a tiny amount.

What is the best practice to measure the length between the sill and the top plate? Maybe it will never be perfect; I am starting with rough cut top plates... but I’d like to minimize the rework and trimming to fit. Is this asking too much?

 

[spasm3]

I'd lay a piece of wood, the same thickness as the bottom plate, in front of the replacement area. Put the replacement stud on that, and mark where the top plate and stud meet. Use a square to mark the line across the face, and use a miter saw.

You probably already have one of these to make sure the replacement stud is fairly plumb before you mark it.
Make a square line across the middle of the stud. Then flip the square over so the level is along that line. Adjust the stud to plumb on top of the fake bottom plate and mark the top of the stud.

Square the line and cut.
.

An assistant to hold it would help.

 

[boulderdentist]

First this is intended as humor, somewhat reality, not helpful to original poster. Hey toneydoc if your are still around you may find this true or amusing. While still in dental school, pre implant days the definition of prosthodontics (full dentures and partial dentures) was:

measure with a micrometer
mark it with chalk
cut it with an axe

There was and is a lot of truth to that.

Scott

 

[AZjeff]

If you're consistently long by that same amount take the line when you cut. Have you tried putting the new stud beside the old stud with the top angled toward the neighboring stud and tapping it into place? 1/32 is a tiny bit to trim.

 

[Amkeer]

Temporarily shore the location up then add the stud. I don't know if you have clapboards on there or what type of siding. I normally shored up the area and completely removed the studs to rebuild the wall. Its advanced carpentry 101. In Florida I have seen my fair share of subterranean termite damage and had to fix it. Repair the area then treat.

 

[tnt_motorsports]

for a 1/16 or 1/32 I'd hammer it home! I would think after you have done a few you should be able to dial in the length based on your previous measurements and cuts

Just my $0.02

 

[ripcord]

Yep! It's bound to have settled anyway.

 

[andyd]

An old German carpenter taught my boss this trick before I was born. August used 2 sticks held in his left hand. to get a precise distance and marked it with his right hand. No need to interpret a tape.

 

[JHZR2]

for a 1/16 or 1/32 I'd hammer it home! I would think after you have done a few you should be able to dial in the length based on your previous measurements and cuts

Just my $0.02

Of course because it’s old and settled, nothing is really straight. It was all rough sawn lumber too...

if it’s OK to drive it in, then that’s Ok. My concern was driving a stud in, and then offsetting the balance of forces to all be on that one versus the two nearest neighbors. Thus why I’ve been trying to get an extremely precise fit, with some slide-in friction, but no force necessary...

 

[Job]

The two sticks is a good idea. They make folding carpenters rules with the brass extension that will go up and hit the top directly. How about just sister some short pieces on the stud sides with glue and screws and then later cut the damage away and put a repair piece in the spot. Will be strong not really necessary to go all the way to the top just a couple feet and saves lumber.

 

[doitmyself]

Thus why I’ve been trying to get an extremely precise fit, with some slide-in friction, but no force necessary...

Nothing wrong with being a craftsman and getting it right. Bringing something old back to life is different than slapping something together new.

Enjoy your journey. Decades from now you will have fond memories of restoring the old structure to endure a few more lifetimes.

 

[dlundblad]

The title reminds me of another one of my sayings...

Ive cut it twice and it’s still too short!

 

[andyd]

Folding rules joints wear out, they are more inaccurate than a tape. All rules are subject to interpretation when the measurement falls between two of those lines. OTOH, 1/8 +/- is fine for an older framed building. A stud that requires mild persuasion will help arrest the sag as the building settles

 

[Amkeer]

Story pole. You can also set the lumber on the plate and mark the area to cut. Don't use PT wood other than the plate. I see this mistake all the time.

 

[JHZR2]

Story pole. You can also set the lumber on the plate and mark the area to cut. Don't use PT wood other than the plate. I see this mistake all the time.

sorry... why not? Genuine question?

is it because it is wet and will bow?

I had read in some places that it is used for framing in spots where there is the potential for flood or water. I figured since it’s a garage and I don’t care about getting drywall on, but probably will have exposure to higher humidity levels consistently (it’s not closed nor is there HVAC), and there was prior termite history, why not?

Doing the rest of the job with regular studs is fine by me...

If I have to replace any rough 4x6, that may be a tougher ask... harder to find untreated larger than 4x4.

 

[andyd]

I agree with Amkeer. My house was a termite infested farmhouse that had been renovated to a barely habitable "shabby chic" I replaced half of the original white pine 6x6s sills with red oak 6x6s soaked in green Cuprinol. The floor joists in the front were bad along with the girt.and the floor. Girt and joists were replaced with PT SYP I built shoring walls to support the upstairs The first floor of the front gable was being held together by the lath and the lower parts of that was eaten. Both corner posts were bad. I replaced everything below the top plate with rough sawn pine to maintain the dimensions. I worked nights. Days, I rebuilt the 1830 hired man's house. That was '78-'86. In 2015, I was doing some touch up and fixing around the front door behind a concrete step poured tight against the sill. Bad job. the step was concrete and brick and frost popped the bricks off. I was about painting and staining, not masonry, so, I hammer and chiseled the concrete away from the sill... And exposed a small rotten section of oak sill that was home to a small termite nest and a defiant red queen. She was over an inch long. I stomped her and used Raid on the rest. I dug away the damage and in 30 yrs, it was minor. The west wall once, I had replaced sill, had much less damage. I cut the studs back where they were chewed and replaced the wood along with a 3' sister. JHZR2 please keep us up to date.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Drive it home... within a 1/4"in framing is good enuf

 

[Job]

Folding rules joints wear out, they are more inaccurate than a tape. All rules are subject to interpretation when the measurement falls between two of those lines. OTOH, 1/8 +/- is fine for an older framed building. A stud that requires mild persuasion will help arrest the sag as the building settles

The folding rules have an extending end piece that I was talking about. Measures directly not over an edge, no interpretation error. You don't even need to look at the scale at all. Very accurate to transfer that to a new piece. If the joints are worn out have to buy a new one. They don't see a lot of if any wear for a homeowner. It isn't even necessary here just glue and screw short side pieces not even measured to the old stud and it is done. Stronger than original and if time is an issue it takes no time at all.

 

[SHOZ]

I have about 20 feet of side wall to replace in the garage. The sill plate is redwood so the termites didn't chew it up. But the double rim joist are ate up and then the go up some of the 2x4s. There is enough exposed block and sill plate to add a 2x2 and then sister another whole wall in. This is what I did on one end. But I don't know how or what to tie into the existing outside wall at the top to carry the load.

Just go done last winter replacing one corner and the header above the garage door from termite damage (without removing the sheathing or siding.. This will be the 4th wall replaced in the garage.

This is the short side of the hose and has a header down the center of the garage in the attic.

 

[RooflessVW]

My dad probably would have used a carpenter's rule. Or a tape measure and hammer it home. I think either would be fine. I've been fortunate enough that I haven't had to do framing repair on my own homes (yet).