MAXLIFE or MOBIL-1 HM Formula?

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178k on 5.9 magnum V8. Been running 10w30 standard Mobil-1 (silver cap) every 3-4k intervals since bought in 2001 with 66k on ticker. Since 150k, I started rotating the M1 HM every-other OCI.

Jeep was retired as daily driver in Aug of '08. Since that time it has been driven only 600 miles. The vehicle has oil leaks, but not enough to leave spots on the garage floor, just enough to wet parts of the oil pan. I suspect rear main, oil pan gasket, & for sure valve cover gasket leaks but not 100% sure what all is leaking since it is not severe enough for me to have to fix at this time.

I had no noticeable gains of any kind between the M1 HM & the Silver Cap stuff although people say it is a very robust oil.

The Jeep will be used for light towing, camping, occasional mud bogging, going to the lake, snow/ice days. Some of this will involve HWY trips, some of it will be short trips.

I had planned to start using the M1 HM changed once per year or 3k miles (whichever came 1st). But in much reading and thinking, I decided to maybe try a dino or blend oil instead.

So I posted a lot of other threads, did online research, etc. and finally have it narrowed down to Maxlife 10w30 as the "other" oil I would be willing to try as an alternative the Mobil-1 HM formula I have been using before the vehicle was retired.

My questions are:

1.) If I do switch to the Maxlife permanently, should I then change the oil every 6 months instead of once per year since it is a blend and not full-syn?

2.) If this were your vehicle with the same pre-existing conditions and intended useage, would you want to change to a dino or blend oil or stick to a synthetic that will never see an extended OCI?

4.) Which base oil is thicker when comparing these two oils in 10w30?

3.) Will I hurt anything other than piece of mind by making this switch?

Thanks for reading an answering my questions!
 
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How much forum space do you want to take on this topic? I have read 3 different threads on your 5.9L all asking the same thing. The Mobil1 is a bit thicker but way more expensive, if it were me I would switch to the $13 Maxlife from Walmart every 6 months and be done with it and get some sleep. :)

cheers
 
Originally Posted By: 05Blazer
How much forum space do you want to take on this topic? I have read 3 different threads on your 5.9L all asking the same thing. The Mobil1 is a bit thicker but way more expensive, if it were me I would switch to the $13 Maxlife from Walmart every 6 months and be done with it and get some sleep. :)

cheers


LOL well my memory is short, but I admitted in this thread I had already done some posting. BUT sir, the point of all this posting was to get to a "specific" oil to compare to the M1. Up until now my threads were intended to decide dino or syn, then if HM dino, then which one would be best choice.

Now that I have reached those conclusions, I had 2 specific oils to compare and discuss. So sorry for multiple posts, but I ahve been working my way up to this thread.

BTW thanks 4 the advice
 
If you're starting to develop some leaks the synthetic blend might be just the trick. From the reading on this forum I had done it seems that M1 seems to find more leak paths than some of the other synthetics, maybe it was due to the Group IV content. At least I have read far more "leak" stories with M1 than say PP, but it may simply be a result of having more users.

You can't go wrong with the Maxlife. I wouldn't worry about synthetic blend sitting in the oil pan any more than "full" synthetic. The "short trip" life that it now lives would be a better reason to change every six months, since it is cheap to do so, and short trips can lead to higher levels of fuel dilution.

Just my uneducated two cents.
 
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Originally Posted By: blackdiamond
If you're starting to develop some leaks the synthetic blend might be just the trick. From the reading on this forum I had done it seems that M1 seems to find more leak paths than some of the other synthetics, maybe it was due to the Group IV content. At least I have read far more "leak" stories with M1 than say PP, but it may simply be a result of having more users.

You can't go wrong with the Maxlife. I wouldn't worry about synthetic blend sitting in the oil pan any more than "full" synthetic. The "short trip" life that it now lives would be a better reason to change every six months, since it is cheap to do so, and short trips can lead to higher levels of fuel dilution.

Just my uneducated two cents.


You make some good "uneducated" points :)

As for the M1 & leaks, I agree except that you'd think this would not be an issue if I stuck to M1 HM forula due to the extra seal conditioners & thicker base stock. But I guess any dino oil of a similar formula with the same HM additive would still be better for leaks due to the largert molecules AND the seal conditioners instead of ONLY the seal conditioners and the smaller molecules like GP-IV syn would have.
 
If you compare MaxLife blend to M1 HM, the M1 HM is the winner, by far. It is a full synthetic, it has a higher HTHS, higher 100C cSt, higher ZDDP, higher boron, much higher calcium but little/no sodium. It has better temperature extremes, it flows better at any temperature.

If you compare it to MaxLife full synthetic, they get closer. M1 still has the higher ZDDP, but it has lower moly, still higher boron, still higher calcium, but virtually no sodium, still higher HTHS, but not much higher, still has better flow, but not much better.

Compare M1 HM to MaxLife, and M1 wins hands down.

Compare M1 HM to full synthetic MaxLife, M1 wins, but just barely.
 
Originally Posted By: FrankN4
If you compare MaxLife blend to M1 HM, the M1 HM is the winner, by far. It is a full synthetic, it has a higher HTHS, higher 100C cSt, higher ZDDP, higher boron, much higher calcium but little/no sodium. It has better temperature extremes, it flows better at any temperature.

If you compare it to MaxLife full synthetic, they get closer. M1 still has the higher ZDDP, but it has lower moly, still higher boron, still higher calcium, but virtually no sodium, still higher HTHS, but not much higher, still has better flow, but not much better.

Compare M1 HM to MaxLife, and M1 wins hands down.

Compare M1 HM to full synthetic MaxLife, M1 wins, but just barely.


Fair enough Frank. I do appreciate the input. I realize that comparing a dino/blend against a full syn is not entirely fair. However, considering the vehicle's limited use, I thought I'd save a buck and also see if the std. Maxlife helped the oil leaks. Maybe I should use the Maxlife for one cycle and then switch back after any leak-stopping benefit was realized?

I have 2 jugs of HM dino oil (Pennzoil & Maxlife) and I intend to keep one for my 75k 4.0L just to use up, but the other jug is going back to wally world on exchange for M1 HM "IF" I decide based on this thread that M1 HM once per year is a "major" benefit over Maxlife dino 10w30.


I GUESS I WANT TO KNOW WHICH OIL WILL PROTECT ME FROM METAL & BEARING WEAR BETTER...not longer OCI, just if the Maxlife will lube okay, then why use a syn other than longer OCI which I will not be going?
 
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Originally Posted By: FrankN4
If you compare MaxLife blend to M1 HM, the M1 HM is the winner, by far. It is a full synthetic, it has a higher HTHS, higher 100C cSt, higher ZDDP, higher boron, much higher calcium but little/no sodium. It has better temperature extremes, it flows better at any temperature.

If you compare it to MaxLife full synthetic, they get closer. M1 still has the higher ZDDP, but it has lower moly, still higher boron, still higher calcium, but virtually no sodium, still higher HTHS, but not much higher, still has better flow, but not much better.

Compare M1 HM to MaxLife, and M1 wins hands down.

Compare M1 HM to full synthetic MaxLife, M1 wins, but just barely.
Well said, agree.
 
Let me repeat in case folks did not see this edit:

I GUESS I WANT TO KNOW WHICH OIL WILL PROTECT ME FROM METAL & BEARING WEAR BETTER...not longer OCI, just if the Maxlife will lube okay, then why use a syn other than longer OCI which I will not be going?
 
FastSUV I just got done reading another post that you asked if you could run thinner oil if you used synthetic and over here you just asked if Val ML would protect from metal to metal and bearing wear? Have you looked into Redline? They claim the best protection and that you can use a thinner oil.
 
For what its worth, I ran 10w30 Dino Maxlife in my Ram 5.2L for a 5000 mile stint, and was quite surprised it never budged on the dipstick, no make up oil or burn off etc.

For the cost savings alone I wouldn't hesitate to use this oil vs M1 Full synth, like a previous poster stated, save a few bucks and don't sweat the small stuff.
 
I agree on the MI HM oil leaks, I was using Maxlife which seemed to contain the leaks to mainly one and i decided to try the Mobil 1 HM. Well, coincidence or not it found at least two new oil leaks that were not there pre Mobil 1
 
Why not give the Pennzoil 10W30 HM oil a try? It should do exactly what you're looking for, and probably hold up for a year under the conditions you're describing, as long as when you drive the Jeep you get the engine good and hot. If you're worried about leaving it a full year then change it out every 6 months. JMO
 
Maxlife would be you best choice.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: mcrn
FastSUV I just got done reading another post that you asked if you could run thinner oil if you used synthetic and over here you just asked if Val ML would protect from metal to metal and bearing wear? Have you looked into Redline? They claim the best protection and that you can use a thinner oil.


that is wrong...i was asking about running a THICKER weight oil if I was using synthetic...

and these two posts are concerning different vehicles


But I do appreciate the input...unfortunately I do not want to run redline in an old 178k Jeep with leaks...I am gonna select a HM oil...but yes, Redline is supposed to be some good lube :)
 
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Why not give the Pennzoil 10W30 HM oil a try? It should do exactly what you're looking for, and probably hold up for a year under the conditions you're describing, as long as when you drive the Jeep you get the engine good and hot. If you're worried about leaving it a full year then change it out every 6 months. JMO


LOL I have been down that road in another post and maxlife seemed to "win"...but I did pickup a jug of the Pennzoil HM 10w30 and have it also in the garage next to the maxlife...I think I am gonna use the Pennzoil in on of my other vehicles since I have been convinved maxlife is a better choice for the above stated conditions
 
not really a good comparison, unless you are talking about maxlife full synth which i can never find anymore. i wish i could. all i can find is the blend. all 3 are good, though. maxlife may be better in a HM engine as I have noticed M1 will burn off quicker on cars ive had in the past with 175+k miles.
 
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