MaxLife ATF in my Nissan

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Originally Posted By: nicholas
Did you reset your trans PCM after your fluid drain - disconnect the negative battery cable for 30+ mins and tap the break pedal.

This will reset the shift logic in your Nissan trans - and give you a much better idea on how the trans and the Maxlife are interacting.

Cheers
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Well, after 5 days now, I still have the 2-3 shift flare. So, I did a battery disconnect to see if this will change the flare. It has not yet!

But, as I mentioned earlier, the flare does disapear when the drivetrain warms up


I did a battery disconnect but, only for about 10-15 minutes and, I DID NOT tap the brake pedal...Tell me more!

When do I tap the brake pedal; during the 30 minutes while the battery is disconected?

How many taps or presses on the pedal?

How far to push the pedal down?

Does the battery really need to be disconnected for 30 minutes?

Please inform me!
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In some cars tapping the break pedal drains the small amount of residual energy in the system.
This was something I read years ago in an automotive textbook>:)

You can tap the breaks any time after you disconnect the negative cable.

Cheers
 
Some PCM's can store data in the event of a dead battery - disconnect for longer than 10mins.
30-60 in the average.
 
I don't know if the shift flare you're referring to is the same as the "issue" ( I really don't think it's an issue) in 5.5 gen Maximas. On the upshift (2-3 I think) the transmission seems to disengage for a sec before it engages the next gear. But I've put ~40k miles on my car and it has 117k miles and it hasn't done any worse. It's not very perceptible unless I'm actively looking for it.

I think Maxima people replace the valve body with something aftermarket that is supposed to improve it. I haven't visited the Maxima forum for a while so I don't quite remember what it was. I think it's the TransGo shift kit. Maybe there is something similar for Altimas.

Read this if you haven't seen it before. It kind of sounds like what you're talking about.
 
Thanks asiancivicmaniac, I did read that link you posted.
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The shift flare that I am experiencing is NEW-ish. I DO know the shift pattern that you speek of in terms of feeling like a manual transmission shifting. But, I only feel that type of shifting apon WOT in any vehicle. And it feels as though a clutch pedal is being depressed for a fraction of a second. I feel this on all new automatics!

What I am feeling now is an actual slipping between 2nd-3rd shift change where the engine revs freely, a couple hundred RPM's before taking 3rd gear. I can make it worst at WOT...or nothing at all by driving really easy. Once the drivetrain warms up, everything is OK!

During normal driving, it will slip mildly between 2nd-3rd. This "was" also happen on the first 1st-2nd shift if I wasn't carefull but, seems to have disapeard(gotten much better) with the MaxLife ATF change.
 
Originally Posted By: nicholas
Did you try the lube guard?


No. I have used it in other transmissions but, not this one. I am using the correct/suitable fluid but, I think that because there are so many Altima's like mine with the exact same issue that, not even LG will help.

I'm going to give it some more time before trying LG.
 
I have only ever used 2 kinds of ATF fluid in my folks '00 Maxima automatic and it has been Napa ATF (Ashland) and Petro Canada Dura Drive MV. The car shifs as good as new with just over 200KM on it, with the last fluid change sometime not quite 2 years ago. (With DuraDrive MV)

I highly recommend Dura Drive MV fluid if you can get it. It's reasonably priced and it works amazingly well.
 
The outside temps today are 60-65 degs F.
On the very first startup of the engine today and driving right off after buckling up, the transmission shifted nice and crisp right away in all gears...even 2nd-3rd...No flare!

I will keep monitoring the situation
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Originally Posted By: Char Baby
As most of my post/replys are, this is a long post. Why change now!
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I don't know why you kept playing with so many different ATF formulas. Transmissions are more sensitive to ATF changes than engines. If you have already found that some formula works, do not change the good thing. Do not buy into the hype "but synthetic is better", etc. I would say just go back to what you have been using when everything was running fine. I think a slight change in viscosity might have created your problem. If problems persist, pour in a bottle a Lubegard Platinum ATF protectant before visiting a transmission shop. It's a friction modifier additive and has worked well for a lot of people, including me (I used to have issues with shudder, slip, etc, all gone). The Platinum is the strongest Lubegard formula.
 
Originally Posted By: Zako2
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
As most of my post/replys are, this is a long post. Why change now!
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I don't know why you kept playing with so many different ATF formulas. Transmissions are more sensitive to ATF changes than engines. If you have already found that some formula works, do not change the good thing. Do not buy into the hype "but synthetic is better", etc. I would say just go back to what you have been using when everything was running fine. I think a slight change in viscosity might have created your problem. If problems persist, pour in a bottle a Lubegard Platinum ATF protectant before visiting a transmission shop. It's a friction modifier additive and has worked well for a lot of people, including me (I used to have issues with shudder, slip, etc, all gone). The Platinum is the strongest Lubegard formula.


So that you understand more about the way I maintain my vehicles(OCI's and transmission & ATF maintenance), let me explain.
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I don't "play with so many ATF formulas". I do regular transmission maintenance, using different ATF's at that time. Whichever "suitable" ATF I buy at that time(suitable for my transmission).

I keep my vehicles well into their teens(16-18 yrs) and start out with proper maintenance on all fluids so that my vehicle can serve me better over the long run.

The fluids(oil or ATF) that I purchace, I buy on sale, whichever is suitable and least expensive at that time(usually on sale) and held in high regard here at BITOG! And as long as it is suitable and proven on forums such as this site(amongst friends).

In this instance, I still have a boat load of Castrol IMV and Mobil 1 hasn't been on sale recently that I recall. I've used the Castrol IMV in 3 vehicles(Lexus, Mazda, Nissan) and it's been OK! I keep the remaining IMV for the Mazda. But, wanted to try MaxLife ATF in my Nissan due to experiencing some mild(repeat...MILD) shift flare. Yes, it is shift flare!

My particular generation Altima('02-'06, 4 & 5 spd/4cyl/V6) has shown to have 1st-2nd and/or 2nd-3rd gear change shift flare...and it's all over the WEB. The ATF(IMV) didn't cause this issue in my transmission although, when changing from one ATF to another(M1 to IMV), as it was coincidental(within several months) that the shift flare occured.

I know quite alot about LugeGard ATF protectant and FM's(RED bottle, HFM, Green Cap and Platinum). Platinum is closer to HFM/Black bottle Red cap. And I disagree with you about using the Platinum in my Nissan. My Nissan calls for Matic-D which is closest to DexIII and an extra FM isn't nessessary. I don't need more slippage in this instance and I though that the Castrol IMV may have been causing some slippage. LubeGard RED would be more suitable as a protectant but again, not nessessary with the newer ATF.

ILI's website states that Platinum will also contribute to firming up my shifts. I'm not sure that I want that either...I mean, it may work but, I'm not trying it YET!

I have used LubeGard in the past with other transmissions. LubeGard isn't as nessessary as it may have been in 1992-93 when it came to meaket during the time when transmissions were experiencing many failures due to the lack of Sperm Whale Oil, which was banned due to "Save the Whales" and ILI came to the rescue with it's patented LXE technology. 20 years is a long time and ATF formulations have changed greatly since then. Platinum seems to be a combination of both the RED & HFM. We'll see!

Although, I do agree that LubeGard(RED) may be worth a try prior to taking the transmission in for repair. A repair which may not be needed since changing the ATF over to MaxLife ATF...We'll have to see. I may need to do it once more with ML!
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I do think that LG products have their place and I have never knocked their procuct.

Ya see!
As most of my post/replys are, this is a long post. Why change now!
 
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In addition, I may use Platinum in on of my other vehicles and I do believe that the Platinum may be more suitable for Nissan Matic J or K but, not Matic-D, IMHO
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LubeGard RED would be more suitable as a protectant but again, not nessessary with the newer ATF.

The LG Red actually changed the way the ML shifted in my DexIII specd Nissan. I think RED is much more than just a protectant, reduces slip in auto boxes.

my2c
 
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Well then, some auto transmissions must need more slip protection than the new ATF's are providing, Hmmmm?

Especially Nissan's!
 
Now 3 weeks into the MaxLife ATF D&F and the temps are in the teens/low 20's deg F.

I can't say that the shift flare is gone completly but, it's under control when driven normaly and gone after the drivetrain is warm. But, it's still too early to tell if the MaxLife alone is helping with the flare. Maybe another D&F? IDK!

Keep in mind that the transmission holds ~9.5-10qts of ATF(total capacity) and my D&F are between 5.5-6 qts depending on how long I let it drain!
And if I lift the front end of the car and let it down & lift/let down and repeat several times(using my floor jack), I can get out even more ATF(closer to 8 qts).
 
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I did it over 50,000kms ago and did not look back. Lets be honest here - shift flare in any form can not be good for longevity. I do not mind a bit of grab in my auto shifts if that equates to less friction and in turn wear of my clutch packs.

Since posting we have acquired my sisters Yaris, I did a full flush with ML and 6oz of RED. I personally prefer the way automatics shift with it. For 15 years I was a standard car driver, RED is the closest thing to standard trans feel in a slush-box I have come across.
 
Nicolas,

Just this past summer 2012, I put in ~7oz of LG RED(used 3oz in the P/S) in my wifes transmission('01 Lexus RX-300) apon another D&F. This time using Castrol HM ATF and prior was with Castrol IMV...Both HM & IMV are a suitable replacement for T-IV. I have always disliked this particular Lexus' 1st-2nd shift as it is long an drawn out prior to taking 2nd gear(Although, No Shift Flare).

With the LubeGard RED in this Lexus, I have noticed nothing; it's just the way the transmission wants to shift! Whether I use:

a)Toyota T-IV,
b)Mobil 1 ATF Dex/Merc w/ LG HFM,
c)Castrol IMV or HM,
d)or w/ LG Red
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Now OTOH, with this particular Altima transmission, the "Shift Flare" is relativly new but, coincidently became noticable several months after my 1st use of Castrol IMV which replaced Mobil 1 ATF(Dex/Merc).

The use of Castrol IMV got me wondering about the extra HFM's in it for use in so many MFG's transmissions. Considering the Nissan came with Matic-D when new, which is closest to Dexron, and my first D&F service was with Mobil 1 Dex/Merc ATF. Maybe this particular(my particular)transmission doesn't like HFM's. This is why I wanted to try the MaxLife Dex/Merc. Although ML claims that it's also suitable with other HFM ATF's...very confusing! How can ML be DEX/Merc and HFM'd ?

When the outside tempurature/weather gets a little better, I may get some LG Red and remove enough ATF from the pan in order to install the whole bottle of LG RED. Since LG Red directions state to use 1 oz of LG Red to each quart total capacity of the transmission, I'll remove 10oz of ATF as the Altima's transmission hold about 10 qts. This should be the proper dosage. It certainly won't hurt the transmission and, I may buy from Amazon in the lager 32oz bottle of LG RED and keep the extra for the futrue...We'll See!
 
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