I have read a number of recent accolades regarding the Mobil 1 FS European Formula 0W40 synthetic oil . My question is for late model DI or port injected passenger vehicle gas engines recommending 5W20 , 5W30 or 10W30 oils : Once the vehicle is out of warrantee for such oil grade recommendations , can you safely use this M1 0W40 synthetic oil without harm in a typical North America climate ? I am highly interested as this oil scores very high in various tests and may be the best all around synthetic off the shelf oil available . Thanks in advance for your thoughts and experiences .
M1 FS Euro 0W40 Applications ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
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Blend with some Toyota 0w20 to get the correct viscosity. The M1 0w40 fs is great oil, as long As you don't need certain certifications (LL01). No reason to use thicker oil than your engine requires.
Don't blend oils.
0W-40 will do no harm to anything but fuel mileage, if even that. I'd use it in just about anything, and have: my German cars, my lawnmower, my dad's old C10 and my mom's Mazda. Our new Volvo is getting Castrol 0W-40 instead of an A5/B5 at its next oil change.
It's what I keep around. It's either optimal or overkill for everything.
0W-40 will do no harm to anything but fuel mileage, if even that. I'd use it in just about anything, and have: my German cars, my lawnmower, my dad's old C10 and my mom's Mazda. Our new Volvo is getting Castrol 0W-40 instead of an A5/B5 at its next oil change.
It's what I keep around. It's either optimal or overkill for everything.
You can use it safely, as is, without blending.
I would be interested to know it too...
It's an excellent oil, Castrol's offering is likely just as good if not better so you have options. I am running an 0w40 for the first time ever and I am very happy with it, if you are not hung up on CAFE friendly 20 grades and silly CAFE driven manufacturer specs, it may be just about the perfect all around oil for about anything.
The 0w40's are very popular on BITOG for those reasons.
The 0w40's are very popular on BITOG for those reasons.
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
It's an excellent oil, Castrol's offering is likely just as good if not better so you have options. I am running an 0w40 for the first time ever and I am very happy with it, if you are not hung up on CAFE friendly 20 grades and silly CAFE driven manufacturer specs, it may be just about the perfect all around oil for about anything.
The 0w40's are very popular on BITOG for those reasons.
BTW, are you using it in a vehicle which is specifying( or calling for) 0W20 or 5W20 oil?
It's an excellent oil, Castrol's offering is likely just as good if not better so you have options. I am running an 0w40 for the first time ever and I am very happy with it, if you are not hung up on CAFE friendly 20 grades and silly CAFE driven manufacturer specs, it may be just about the perfect all around oil for about anything.
The 0w40's are very popular on BITOG for those reasons.
BTW, are you using it in a vehicle which is specifying( or calling for) 0W20 or 5W20 oil?
You will not have any issues running M1 0w40; however, you can get just as good of protection running other synthetic oils (either M1 or other brands) in the correct grades for your vehicle. I would highly recommend valvoline full synthetic maxlife in 10w30.
I run it in my Nissan Pathfinder 2012 with a 4.0 V6 that is hard on oil. It runs much smoother then 5 or 10w30 smoother meaning at idle it idles much better. I notice no difference in millage and my motor does not feel sluggish with the 40 weight oil "Unlike my Toyota 4Runner v6" the way I look at it if the 40 weight oil shears down to a 30 weight who cares that's my recommended grade. I plan to try the Castrol 0W40 next.
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What is making it flow faster ? A so called positive displacement oil pump (not as positive as a plunger pump with Viton seals) actually moves "pump-able" more viscous fluids as good or better. I think nozzle pattern or splashed lube might get distributed a hair better at lower viscosity - but that oil is getting there if you follow OEM and oil company specs.
I wouldn't go out of my way to use it over a 30 weight. 0W-30 AFE is a good oil, as is M1 EP 5W-30.
High performance DI engines, and multi cam /valve engines with multiple feet of chain driven cams tend to shear oil.
Starting with 0w40 gives you a bit more headroom in a vehicle like this on an extended run.
Other applications like half ton trucks towing at or near their maximum for in hot areas, or in hot areas with lots of hills like Davis Dam the 40 gives you a bit of extra protection, at the expense of a tiny bit of mileage under normal conditions. These types of vehicles in this type service do not "last forever" like a lightly loaded auto can with minimal to even neglectful service intervals and 20 grade oil.
As another poster mentioned the slightly thicker oil tends to slow consumption a bit if you have a " burner", or an older rig thats got some wear already compared to the thinner grades.
Running it in a lightly loaded relatively low performance auto although not dangerous, is probably not going to buy you much of anything and will cost some mileage, but in a vehicle that has to carry a substantive load for an appreciable length of time it starts to make more sense.
Thanks to Bitogs many info sources it seems since early 2016 there is some GTL in M1 0w40 depending on which formulation you get, and where you get it, and that just add to this oils already long list of superb qualities and price. The current board darling oil Pennzoil platinum/ ultra platinum, had a technology lead in this area and it appears mobil has closed the gap.
Good luck and good oiling.
UD
Starting with 0w40 gives you a bit more headroom in a vehicle like this on an extended run.
Other applications like half ton trucks towing at or near their maximum for in hot areas, or in hot areas with lots of hills like Davis Dam the 40 gives you a bit of extra protection, at the expense of a tiny bit of mileage under normal conditions. These types of vehicles in this type service do not "last forever" like a lightly loaded auto can with minimal to even neglectful service intervals and 20 grade oil.
As another poster mentioned the slightly thicker oil tends to slow consumption a bit if you have a " burner", or an older rig thats got some wear already compared to the thinner grades.
Running it in a lightly loaded relatively low performance auto although not dangerous, is probably not going to buy you much of anything and will cost some mileage, but in a vehicle that has to carry a substantive load for an appreciable length of time it starts to make more sense.
Thanks to Bitogs many info sources it seems since early 2016 there is some GTL in M1 0w40 depending on which formulation you get, and where you get it, and that just add to this oils already long list of superb qualities and price. The current board darling oil Pennzoil platinum/ ultra platinum, had a technology lead in this area and it appears mobil has closed the gap.
Good luck and good oiling.
UD
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4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Or an investment lead - XOM has hundreds of GTL/LNG patents but cancelled the huge plants and invested in production instead. Going forward - don't think they will all be large scale GTL plants - in fact a modular at the well head spread is being tested near here.
Long term, while not as romantic for BITOG types - production of NG and oil will make the real money as commodities tick upward. For now - with LNG - you can send the gas to a higher cost market - and they do.
Long term, while not as romantic for BITOG types - production of NG and oil will make the real money as commodities tick upward. For now - with LNG - you can send the gas to a higher cost market - and they do.
GTL plants were built to utilize otherwise vented natural gas, but the economics weren't there even with "free" feedstock.
OP here : What I would hope to gain with M1 0W40 is to be able to use one all weather synthetic oil rated one of the best for anti wear (among other things) . Vehicles in my signature could also do fine with 5W20 QSUD , 5W30 M1 , or perhaps 0W20 QSUD - all are top 10 oils in anti wear properties .
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
I have read a number of recent accolades regarding the Mobil 1 FS European Formula 0W40 synthetic oil . My question is for late model DI or port injected passenger vehicle gas engines recommending 5W20 , 5W30 or 10W30 oils : Once the vehicle is out of warrantee for such oil grade recommendations , can you safely use this M1 0W40 synthetic oil without harm in a typical North America climate ? I am highly interested as this oil scores very high in various tests and may be the best all around synthetic off the shelf oil available . Thanks in advance for your thoughts and experiences .
I'm very interested in this topic as well for my 2.0L Turbo Optima.
Current plan (subject to change):
Upon upcoming OCI (w/M1 0W-40 non-"FS" oil in the sump) I will sample for both Blackstone and Polaris analysis.
Fill sump with M1 0W-40 "FS" oil and continue till next OCI at which time I will sample again (Blackstone most likely).
At that time, based on the results, I will either stay with M1 0W-40 "FS" oil or switch over to the Castrol Edge 0W-40 oil (now BC and not GC). If I do, I'll sample that sump as well once my OCI is complete using Blackstone again.
Following the latest Kia TSB oil recommendations for my car/engine, I can use 5W-40 oil just fine but the reason I plan on sticking with a 0W-40 oil is that I firmly believe that since 0W-40 oil is inclusive of and exceeds the 5W-40 specified oil, I should be fine from a warranty position (especially since I have every receipt for both oil and filters for every DIY oil change for the live of the car - I'm original owner). It appears that the dealers are more interested in sludge formation as the best indicator of proper maintenance on engine warranty claims for these engines and I should be good to go on that with my OCI of 4K miles and having always used M1 0W-40 oil.
I have read a number of recent accolades regarding the Mobil 1 FS European Formula 0W40 synthetic oil . My question is for late model DI or port injected passenger vehicle gas engines recommending 5W20 , 5W30 or 10W30 oils : Once the vehicle is out of warrantee for such oil grade recommendations , can you safely use this M1 0W40 synthetic oil without harm in a typical North America climate ? I am highly interested as this oil scores very high in various tests and may be the best all around synthetic off the shelf oil available . Thanks in advance for your thoughts and experiences .
I'm very interested in this topic as well for my 2.0L Turbo Optima.
Current plan (subject to change):
Upon upcoming OCI (w/M1 0W-40 non-"FS" oil in the sump) I will sample for both Blackstone and Polaris analysis.
Fill sump with M1 0W-40 "FS" oil and continue till next OCI at which time I will sample again (Blackstone most likely).
At that time, based on the results, I will either stay with M1 0W-40 "FS" oil or switch over to the Castrol Edge 0W-40 oil (now BC and not GC). If I do, I'll sample that sump as well once my OCI is complete using Blackstone again.
Following the latest Kia TSB oil recommendations for my car/engine, I can use 5W-40 oil just fine but the reason I plan on sticking with a 0W-40 oil is that I firmly believe that since 0W-40 oil is inclusive of and exceeds the 5W-40 specified oil, I should be fine from a warranty position (especially since I have every receipt for both oil and filters for every DIY oil change for the live of the car - I'm original owner). It appears that the dealers are more interested in sludge formation as the best indicator of proper maintenance on engine warranty claims for these engines and I should be good to go on that with my OCI of 4K miles and having always used M1 0W-40 oil.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
What does it cost to run oil analysis with two companies ?
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