Looking at a used Cub Cadet

[Rock_Hudstone]

Originally Posted By: Ifixyawata
It started and ran fine, idled good. I did see a bit of smoke while it was running.


I'd be concerned, overfilled or not, oil in the combustion chamber is not a good sign

 

[Rock_Hudstone]

Originally Posted By: Ifixyawata
I did see a bit of smoke while it was running. I'm not super concerned though, because the oil level was about 1/2 inch over full.

Maybe thats why its for sale.

 

[HM12460]

What is your budget? A well maintained, used John Deere LX series is a fine machine, if you don't include the "plastic" hoods. The LX 176 would be an excellent choice. Foot pedal hydro, and an air cooled Kawasaki engine. You can buy nice one's quite reasonable.

 

[HemiHawk]

Not sure how similar to the one you are looking at... But I have a GT2186. It also have the Kohler command 18 horse, shaft drive, 48inch deck. Mine has 520 hours on it. I bought it with 400 hours, and its treated me fairly well. I recently started looking at new tractors but then through research learned the 2000 series cubs can be tuned up/maintained and will give service for a long time. Mine was not maintained very well previously, but most of the damage seems cosmetic. The only thing out of my knowledge is carb tuning/rebuilding so I'm having some one do that next week. All other service items are easy. If you found one with the same engine at 200ish hours, for a decent price, I say why not.

Also, in the 520 hours mine has been run I don't think the trans has ever been serviced, so at 200ish hours if yours is the same hydro system you should be fine. I plan on changing mine out this weekend, its just a $10 filter and some fluid.

 

[SatinSilver]

Originally Posted By: Ifixyawata
So I went and looked at it and everything seems pretty solid. It started and ran fine, idled good. I did see a bit of smoke while it was running. I'm not super concerned though, because the oil level was about 1/2 inch over full. Hour meter reads 255.


How much were they asking for it if you don't mind me asking?

Sincerely,

Skippy-doo

 

[Ifixyawata]

Asking $1k but I'm thinking being a dealer they'll come down.

 

[SatinSilver]

That's much less than I thought it would be. Hopefully, it's been fully serviced including the transaxle.

 

[Ifixyawata]

Originally Posted By: JTK
The transaxles on the 2000 and 3000 series use ordinary 15w40 HD engine oil. The only 2000's I would avoid are the somewhat rare models with the "auto gear" transaxle as opposed to the hydrostatic. These will have an "AGS" marking on the sides. It's basically a fender shift gear drive, where you keep a pedal mashed to "go". No clutching for gear changes. It's a HD setup, but rare.


So I ended up getting this, I think with fluid changes and a lube job it will be pretty well tip top.

So, I've heard the transaxle uses 10w-30, you're saying diesel 15w-40 and I've also read that it can use standard 'Tractor Supply' hydraulic oil that's equivalent to something called hytrac. I know I'm not using the $12/at CC brand stuff.

How about the Kohler command 18, a 10w-30? Diesel oil?

Also, cross reference on filters? I've heard of motorcraft being used on the engine.

 

[jeepman3071]

Originally Posted By: Ifixyawata

So I ended up getting this, I think with fluid changes and a lube job it will be pretty well tip top.

So, I've heard the transaxle uses 10w-30, you're saying diesel 15w-40 and I've also read that it can use standard 'Tractor Supply' hydraulic oil that's equivalent to something called hytrac. I know I'm not using the $12/at CC brand stuff.

How about the Kohler command 18, a 10w-30? Diesel oil?

Also, cross reference on filters? I've heard of motorcraft being used on the engine.


Nice choice on the Kohler Command! Great engines. I use Rotella T5 10w30 HDEO in my 25hp Command V-twin, and it runs great with no smoke/oil burning and over 700 hours. HDEO like Rotella 10w30 or 5w40/15w40 would be my choice for these.

The filter would be a Motorcraft FL-910S, or Wix 1348. You could even squeeze an FL-400s if there is room.

 

[HemiHawk]

Originally Posted By: jeepman3071

Nice choice on the Kohler Command! Great engines. I use Rotella T5 10w30 HDEO in my 25hp Command V-twin, and it runs great with no smoke/oil burning and over 700 hours. HDEO like Rotella 10w30 or 5w40/15w40 would be my choice for these.

The filter would be a Motorcraft FL-910S, or Wix 1348. You could even squeeze an FL-400s if there is room.



I am looking at a new filter for mine as well, dumb question but... no issues running those motorcraft filters? Do the kohler filters have anti-drain valves in them? I like the idea of the motorcraft filters being cheap and readily available. I have the command 18 horse.

 

[jeepman3071]

Originally Posted By: HemiHawk
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071

Nice choice on the Kohler Command! Great engines. I use Rotella T5 10w30 HDEO in my 25hp Command V-twin, and it runs great with no smoke/oil burning and over 700 hours. HDEO like Rotella 10w30 or 5w40/15w40 would be my choice for these.

The filter would be a Motorcraft FL-910S, or Wix 1348. You could even squeeze an FL-400s if there is room.



I am looking at a new filter for mine as well, dumb question but... no issues running those motorcraft filters? Do the kohler filters have anti-drain valves in them? I like the idea of the motorcraft filters being cheap and readily available. I have the command 18 horse.



I've cut open both the Kohler/Briggs filters, and the automotive filters. The Kohler OEM filters were literally just an e-core filter with a fancy Kohler sticker on the outside. I was quite surprised since I've seen them for $18. The Motorcraft and Wix filters are superior in construction. I've been running Motorcraft and Wix filters on lawn equipment for years now on both mine and customer equipment with no issues.

 

[JTK]

^ Same here in regards to filters. I cut open any/all that fit my cutter and I've never been impressed with these OEM branded filters that justified their cost.

 

[Ifixyawata]

Excellent, I'm set on getting Rotella 10w-30 for the engine and I think I will get a Motorcraft FL910s.

The more I read, I think I will leave the transmission alone, at least for now. I think I'd like to change the filter and top it off at least but I'm not ready to do a full change yet.

Any alternative for trans filters? I've read something about check valves or adbvs or something. Can I also top off factory fluid with 15w-40?

 

[Ifixyawata]

Originally Posted By: Ifixyawata
Excellent, I'm set on getting Rotella 10w-30 for the engine and I think I will get a Motorcraft FL910s.

The more I read, I think I will leave the transmission alone, at least for now. I think I'd like to change the filter and top it off at least but I'm not ready to do a full change yet.

Any alternative for trans filters? I've read something about check valves or adbvs or something. Can I also top off factory fluid with 15w-40?


Also, as a matter of preventative maintenance, I should probably just do plugs too, what's the go to plug for command engines?

 

[jeepman3071]

Originally Posted By: Ifixyawata
Originally Posted By: Ifixyawata
Excellent, I'm set on getting Rotella 10w-30 for the engine and I think I will get a Motorcraft FL910s.

The more I read, I think I will leave the transmission alone, at least for now. I think I'd like to change the filter and top it off at least but I'm not ready to do a full change yet.

Any alternative for trans filters? I've read something about check valves or adbvs or something. Can I also top off factory fluid with 15w-40?


Also, as a matter of preventative maintenance, I should probably just do plugs too, what's the go to plug for command engines?


I usually use Champion RC12YC.

 

[Ifixyawata]

I finally got some seat time on this tractor and it is in very good operating condition for a 13+ year old mower.

There is some slop in the steering but I would expect that in any lawn tractor. I checked the trans fluid, it's very clean but appears to be a little over full. Did not notice any ill effects except what appears to be a normal reverse whine.

I changed the oil and filter, just about 2 quarts of Rotella 10w-30 and a Motorcraft fl-910s. I didn't bring my filter wrench so I had to, for the first time ever, use the screwdriver though the filter trick. Worst part is I think I forgot to oil the new gasket.

Also lubed what I could find. Both front wheel bearings, both front spindle pivot areas. Also one of the deck spindles, the other is missing a grease fitting. I will need to replace that. Also need to look at the manual for the other grease fittings if there are any.

All in all it seems like a very good tractor that should have a lot of life left. I was impressed by the all metal hood and side panels. Strangely the headlight bulbs and harness are missing and the battery hold down is a rope lol.

 

[JTK]

Good deal. Does the transaxle have the aluminum or cast iron housing? Either is great, it's just the way the dipstick is designed on the aluminum housing, can cause the dipstick to not seat tightly enough. The transaxle housing and gears is a Cub unit where the hydrostatic drive coupled to it is a HydroGear BDU10 series drive.

If it's any consolation, the headlamps are pretty worthless on these. My 2005 model year Cub 2544 was the last year of the 3-pc metal hood design. They're more to allow people to see you that for you to see anything.

 

[Ifixyawata]

I still haven't looked under it much but I think it has an aluminum housing.

I did notice after I'd stabbed the old Kohler filter and drained the oil that someone had written 1.31.17 and 253 hours on the filter. I guess it wasn't due but I'm sure I'm not the first one to change unknown oil early.

 

[jeepman3071]

The steering play on those is partly because of worn out steering arms. They go from the steering mechanism connected to the steering wheel to the front axle. The arms have a ball joint on one or both ends that gets worn causing some slop. You can usually find them on ebay for fairly cheap. Replacing them might not take out all of the slop, but will definitely help.

 

[JTK]

^^ Yep. There are several components to the steering assembly that have small amounts of play to them, even when new. Those tolerances typically add up to almost 1/4 turn of the steering wheel on some of these 2000 series Cubs. I know I snapped the upper shaft on the sector gear assy. on my 2544 when I got a front wheel stuck in a deep rut. It was my doing though. Like jeepman3071 said, I got a whole new assembly on eBay for cheap and it was very easy to remove and replace.