Long Term 5w-30 use in Honda 1.5t
- Thread starter picklyrickly1073
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Clever thick v. thin thread. Nice.
Run 0W-30. You'll love it. TBD if it makes a real world difference if you are running 92 Premium fuel.
See what I did there?
Run 0W-30. You'll love it. TBD if it makes a real world difference if you are running 92 Premium fuel.
See what I did there?
I’ve used various 5w30: amsoil, Pennzoil, Mobil super and probably something else. Everything but amsoil (two OCI if I remember correctly) were run for 4-5k miles. I could never tell the difference (as far as motor “performance” goes) with any of the oils. I don’t think it really matters with these engines. 36mpg life time. Close to 40mpg on the highway, 32-33mpg around town. Since my 3$/jug stash has been depleted, next oil will Kirkland 5w30, currently on sale.
@picklyrickly1073
Have you tried any of the Honda forums? You might be able to cast a bigger net there.
I feel like this is the second or third post that’s basically asking the same question… I truly mean no offense, but if you are not getting the answers you need here already, then you’re probably not going to get them simply by rephrasing/re-asking the question.
Have you tried any of the Honda forums? You might be able to cast a bigger net there.
I feel like this is the second or third post that’s basically asking the same question… I truly mean no offense, but if you are not getting the answers you need here already, then you’re probably not going to get them simply by rephrasing/re-asking the question.
How do they obtain that, exactly?
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I dunno, curiosity I suppose. I do plan to send the 0w-20 for a UOA since I already ordered some kits per an earlier suggestion in another thread. On one hand I do trust Honda since I've had a few civics (97 and 01 bought with 100k and sold at 200k or so each) and they always ran well for me using whatever Honda called for, but on the other hand I do think that some of the newer suggestions are being driven by efficiency and economy standards which may not have been as big of a factor in the past. The question is whether these new efficiency oriented suggestions actually harm things long term, in other words is a 0w-20 really not adequate for long term durability or did manufacturers find a way to use thinner oils without giving up that durability. Ideally I'd love to hear from someone who has used 5w-30 for a few years or close to 100k miles (one person did chime in with very relevant and helpful personal experience)
That's actually quite complicated. And the complexity is further complicated by the various ways in which the apparent octane rating is achieved.
In the most traditional sense (where octane is the only molecule) then it is affected by the branching of the isomers. Greater branching leads to a higher activation energy and this resists compression ignition better until the spark plug fires. But combustion is also much more complicated since there are multiple bonds to be broken, and there are intermediate compounds formed during combustion.
The other complication is that for today's fuels it's not just octane in the gasoline. The most widely used enhancer is ethanol, and in the past MBTE was used as well as tetraethyl lead. TEL in particular actually did slow down combustion rather than inhibit compression ignition.
No matter what it all revolves around not igniting the fuel/air mixture until you wish for it to happen via the spark plug.
Thank you for the concise explanation. My reference to slowing the combustion goes back 40-50 years when I read about it. But that idea is still floating around.
Again, thank you...
and if it's the case that half way through the fuel dilution takes it toll then I would recommend he drain or siphon as much out, keep the filter in place and refill for the other half of the journey.The truth hurts sometimes you are known for not covering the truth with enough padding(for some)
Back on question I'm not sure what potent fuel means either.
I would definitely use a 5w30 in that engine its a known diluter. You will be 20wt halfway into your OCI.
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Except there is no evidence to make the broad claim that that’s the case. But if that were the case I’d just run a thicker oil or change it more frequently. I know filters can last 2OCI or more depending on mileage, but they are so cheap (I buy OEMs @ $7.50 a piece and there are cheaper options) I don’t feel like it’s worth keeping them on to save the money.
theoretically...can having a fuel with too high cause problems say in the winter? Number indicates it detonation, but could too high be just as bad not getting complete burn off. For me, I get best from 89 e10 and 87 non ethanol at QT every other fillup. After doing all my math equations over the roughly 17.2 gallon tank, I get a mid 87.5 to 88 and some change. If I get too high of an octane it just doesn't seem to really make any returns on fuel economy or power
this is where the niche market of 0w30 comes in. M1,Amsoil,HPL or Redline all do a 0w30; the three on the end will last a bit longer and feel like the handle dilution a bit better. I would start a 0w30 M1, but I would top off on Redline just to control the dilution and noack. 5w30 year round and maybe the 0w30 for that one change where it gets cold enough to warrant, but most good 5w30 oils will even be okay unless you live at McMurdo Air Station or north of Yellowknife NWT during the winters.
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i have the same engine and when i tried 0w30 it made a grinding/buzzing noise when revving it quickly (for rev matching as an example). although could just be the HPFP as that makes some strange noises sometimes. drained it and put back in 0w20 and smooth as silk. i think you're better off using an oil with high quality additives like HPL, Amsoil, Motul, etc.
Amazing.
There are no Civic 1.5 T Sports at McMurdo, or any other car directly comparable. With Yellowknife, the approach is to keep the engine block warm enough to ensure flow, as nothing flows at the lowest temperatures that place records, so 5W30 should do the trick.
Get that automatic transmission looked at.
There is a contingent on CivicX that run the thicker oil, but they are mostly modder types.
Oil analysis reports running 0W-20 in the 1.5T typically show low wear metals, so it's hard to find fault with that.
I've gone back and forth between 5w-30 and 0W-20 in my 1.5T, and both seem fine, however the engine seems to rev easier when the engine is cold with the thinner oil. I know this is subjective, but that's my observation. My commute is only 6 miles also, so I've stayed with the thin oil for cold usage performance reasons.
Realize too, since the OP is changing the oil at 5k miles, and drives a fair bit, I don't think it matters either way.
Oil analysis reports running 0W-20 in the 1.5T typically show low wear metals, so it's hard to find fault with that.
I've gone back and forth between 5w-30 and 0W-20 in my 1.5T, and both seem fine, however the engine seems to rev easier when the engine is cold with the thinner oil. I know this is subjective, but that's my observation. My commute is only 6 miles also, so I've stayed with the thin oil for cold usage performance reasons.
Realize too, since the OP is changing the oil at 5k miles, and drives a fair bit, I don't think it matters either way.
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