Just picked up Mazdaspeed 3...little advice needed
- Thread starter RUKnight
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My first UOA of the FFill looked a lot like Valvoline mineral with its chemistry, FWIW.
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What would be a good dino oil for the first initial break in period? Pennzoil conventional at 1k and 2.5k then switching to Pennzoil Platinum is a good idea? I know conventional Pennzoil gets alot of raves for n/a cars...but how does it perform to hotter burning turbo cars?
Just curious thats all...I might be picking up an MS3 very shortly...and I am definitely going to do an oil change at the 1k and 2.5k marks before switching to syn at 5k...
Just curious thats all...I might be picking up an MS3 very shortly...and I am definitely going to do an oil change at the 1k and 2.5k marks before switching to syn at 5k...
if you want to change out your break in oil before break in is completed, you'll want a good moly rich oil. Motorcraft, Havoline or Pennzoil? They once had good doses of moly, not sure about now. Getting a layer of moly on the new engines internals is generally the reason manufacturers recommend running the OE fill for the full length, because the next OCI is not guaranteed moly as part of it's chemistry. Knowing that makes it really easy to think around that problem.
Try the gold German Castrol 0w30. Its a great application for turbo and it tends to be handle fuel dilution pretty well and is shear stable.
My CX7 has the same engine abet with different tuning. After doing very much research on this NG and elsewhere I decided on RLI or Pennzoil Platinum in the 5w30 wt.. I changed out the factory oil at ~ 2500 miles and wnt to PP and OEM oil filter. I again changed out at 6,000 miles and now at 11,500 and will do an oil/filter change and a UOA at the 12,000 miles (6,000 OCI). I will continue to do a 6,000 mile OCI unless the UOA suggests different. I don't read too much into the fuel dilution issues unless wear metal increase. I do my own oil changes and would prefer to use RLI oils but, getting them shipped vs getting a 5 quart jug of PP at Walmarts is a no issue for me. Good driving-love mine. Ed
Originally Posted By: globey
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
any dino will get you 5K but i understand your concerns with the fuel dilution issues. cant remember if it was PP that handled fuel dilution better than others or another one. honestly cant remember
Did you just recommend a dino for a fuel diluting turbo charged application? Isn't that a bit gutsy?
i did but also understand his fuel dilution issues. he said he will be doing 5K intervals and mentioned a dino will get him 5K intervals. he can also do dino and change out more often if the fuel is really that big of an issue.
Why would you make a recommendation if you don't "remember"? These kind of things confuse people who are looking for real answers. Please don't post just to post.
well im sorry if your to ignorant to understand my post.
i said I could not remember if it was PP or not, come to find out it was. And renewable is a good oil to use if you are having fuel dilution issues.
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
any dino will get you 5K but i understand your concerns with the fuel dilution issues. cant remember if it was PP that handled fuel dilution better than others or another one. honestly cant remember
Did you just recommend a dino for a fuel diluting turbo charged application? Isn't that a bit gutsy?
i did but also understand his fuel dilution issues. he said he will be doing 5K intervals and mentioned a dino will get him 5K intervals. he can also do dino and change out more often if the fuel is really that big of an issue.
Why would you make a recommendation if you don't "remember"? These kind of things confuse people who are looking for real answers. Please don't post just to post.
well im sorry if your to ignorant to understand my post.
i said I could not remember if it was PP or not, come to find out it was. And renewable is a good oil to use if you are having fuel dilution issues.
Originally Posted By: globey
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
any dino will get you 5K but i understand your concerns with the fuel dilution issues. cant remember if it was PP that handled fuel dilution better than others or another one. honestly cant remember
Did you just recommend a dino for a fuel diluting turbo charged application? Isn't that a bit gutsy?
i did but also understand his fuel dilution issues. he said he will be doing 5K intervals and mentioned a dino will get him 5K intervals. he can also do dino and change out more often if the fuel is really that big of an issue.
Why would you make a recommendation if you don't "remember"? These kind of things confuse people who are looking for real answers. Please don't post just to post.
Here is Max Wanderers post:
if you want to change out your break in oil before break in is completed, you'll want a good moly rich oil. Motorcraft, Havoline or Pennzoil? They once had good doses of moly, not sure about now. Getting a layer of moly on the new engines internals is generally the reason manufacturers recommend running the OE fill for the full length, because the next OCI is not guaranteed moly as part of it's chemistry. Knowing that makes it really easy to think around that problem.
He doesnt remember if they have lots of moly in them or not. Make sure you ask him not to post just to post!
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
any dino will get you 5K but i understand your concerns with the fuel dilution issues. cant remember if it was PP that handled fuel dilution better than others or another one. honestly cant remember
Did you just recommend a dino for a fuel diluting turbo charged application? Isn't that a bit gutsy?
i did but also understand his fuel dilution issues. he said he will be doing 5K intervals and mentioned a dino will get him 5K intervals. he can also do dino and change out more often if the fuel is really that big of an issue.
Why would you make a recommendation if you don't "remember"? These kind of things confuse people who are looking for real answers. Please don't post just to post.
Here is Max Wanderers post:
if you want to change out your break in oil before break in is completed, you'll want a good moly rich oil. Motorcraft, Havoline or Pennzoil? They once had good doses of moly, not sure about now. Getting a layer of moly on the new engines internals is generally the reason manufacturers recommend running the OE fill for the full length, because the next OCI is not guaranteed moly as part of it's chemistry. Knowing that makes it really easy to think around that problem.
He doesnt remember if they have lots of moly in them or not. Make sure you ask him not to post just to post!
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
He doesnt remember if they have lots of moly in them or not. Make sure you ask him not to post just to post!
I am not going to respond to you again because you don't seem to get the point and you won't let things go. I was not attacking you, simply stating that sometimes it seems you are posting just to post. You simply could have said that there's an oil that does handle fuel dilution better but I cannot remember which one. Or perhaps not replied at all since you didn't know which oil handled fuel dilution issues. It's easy.
Good luck.
Sorry for the mini-jack, back on topic.
He doesnt remember if they have lots of moly in them or not. Make sure you ask him not to post just to post!
I am not going to respond to you again because you don't seem to get the point and you won't let things go. I was not attacking you, simply stating that sometimes it seems you are posting just to post. You simply could have said that there's an oil that does handle fuel dilution better but I cannot remember which one. Or perhaps not replied at all since you didn't know which oil handled fuel dilution issues. It's easy.
Good luck.
Sorry for the mini-jack, back on topic.
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Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: Johnny
If your referring to PP Group III as dino, no. Terry Dyson says it handles fuel dilution well.
Next.
No offense, but no one said anything to you about PP being a dino.
SORRY! I misread your reply to 02zx9r when he mentioned dino and PP in his reply.
Originally Posted By: Johnny
If your referring to PP Group III as dino, no. Terry Dyson says it handles fuel dilution well.
Next.
No offense, but no one said anything to you about PP being a dino.
SORRY! I misread your reply to 02zx9r when he mentioned dino and PP in his reply.
Originally Posted By: Max_Wander
if you want to change out your break in oil before break in is completed, you'll want a good moly rich oil. Motorcraft, Havoline or Pennzoil? They once had good doses of moly, not sure about now. Getting a layer of moly on the new engines internals is generally the reason manufacturers recommend running the OE fill for the full length, because the next OCI is not guaranteed moly as part of it's chemistry. Knowing that makes it really easy to think around that problem.
Max,
Really now? VW/Audi factory oil does not contain Moly. Occasionally a little Moly from assembly lubes show up, but quite often no Moly shows up in the 1st UOA.
if you want to change out your break in oil before break in is completed, you'll want a good moly rich oil. Motorcraft, Havoline or Pennzoil? They once had good doses of moly, not sure about now. Getting a layer of moly on the new engines internals is generally the reason manufacturers recommend running the OE fill for the full length, because the next OCI is not guaranteed moly as part of it's chemistry. Knowing that makes it really easy to think around that problem.
Max,
Really now? VW/Audi factory oil does not contain Moly. Occasionally a little Moly from assembly lubes show up, but quite often no Moly shows up in the 1st UOA.
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I also have a 2007 CX-7 with the same engine. The dealership was using MC syn blend 5w30 for their changes and told me it was the factory fill based on the close relationship of Ford and Mazda.
I changed out the FF at 1000, had a freebie change at 1500 because it appeared overfilled and a last freebie change with MC at 5000. At 8000 I tried PP 5w30 and notice no difference at this point (10000).
The owners manual specifically recommends SL oil which I don't know if I should be concerned about (SM oil was available a long time prior to this car's introduction). Maybe it is to combat dilution, who knows.
What I can tell you is do not be surprised if your oil level grows well above the full mark soon after OCI's. I think the dilution is so significant that you can fill to the proper mark on the dipstick and not too long after it appears to be significantly overfilled. I noticed this after changing out the FF, driving a week (500 miles) and returning to the dealer complaining they overfilled. It turns out they had not because it continues to happen. I will change mine often until this settles down.
I changed out the FF at 1000, had a freebie change at 1500 because it appeared overfilled and a last freebie change with MC at 5000. At 8000 I tried PP 5w30 and notice no difference at this point (10000).
The owners manual specifically recommends SL oil which I don't know if I should be concerned about (SM oil was available a long time prior to this car's introduction). Maybe it is to combat dilution, who knows.
What I can tell you is do not be surprised if your oil level grows well above the full mark soon after OCI's. I think the dilution is so significant that you can fill to the proper mark on the dipstick and not too long after it appears to be significantly overfilled. I noticed this after changing out the FF, driving a week (500 miles) and returning to the dealer complaining they overfilled. It turns out they had not because it continues to happen. I will change mine often until this settles down.
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
Originally Posted By: globey
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
any dino will get you 5K but i understand your concerns with the fuel dilution issues. cant remember if it was PP that handled fuel dilution better than others or another one. honestly cant remember
Did you just recommend a dino for a fuel diluting turbo charged application? Isn't that a bit gutsy?
i did but also understand his fuel dilution issues. he said he will be doing 5K intervals and mentioned a dino will get him 5K intervals. he can also do dino and change out more often if the fuel is really that big of an issue.
Why would you make a recommendation if you don't "remember"? These kind of things confuse people who are looking for real answers. Please don't post just to post.
Here is Max Wanderers post:
if you want to change out your break in oil before break in is completed, you'll want a good moly rich oil. Motorcraft, Havoline or Pennzoil? They once had good doses of moly, not sure about now. Getting a layer of moly on the new engines internals is generally the reason manufacturers recommend running the OE fill for the full length, because the next OCI is not guaranteed moly as part of it's chemistry. Knowing that makes it really easy to think around that problem.
He doesnt remember if they have lots of moly in them or not. Make sure you ask him not to post just to post!
Funny, when I typed that, I knowingly put myself at risk to getting calle just like you. Moly content could have recently changed, I can't just overlook that. I dont have all the answers, so i must disclaim, but I know they once all had moly and still may. And for the record, it's Wander not Wanderer
.
Originally Posted By: RI_RS4
Max,
Really now? VW/Audi factory oil does not contain Moly. Occasionally a little Moly from assembly lubes show up, but quite often no Moly shows up in the 1st UOA.
I suppose I was alluding specifically to Honda break-in rationale. Theyre prominantly leading the "leave the FF in for the full term" camp. They insist you leave the moly rich FF in until all surfaces are effectively "plated". I suppose that could be a small contributing factor that allows their engines to wear so well (that and the leisurely torque production
).
Originally Posted By: globey
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
any dino will get you 5K but i understand your concerns with the fuel dilution issues. cant remember if it was PP that handled fuel dilution better than others or another one. honestly cant remember
Did you just recommend a dino for a fuel diluting turbo charged application? Isn't that a bit gutsy?
i did but also understand his fuel dilution issues. he said he will be doing 5K intervals and mentioned a dino will get him 5K intervals. he can also do dino and change out more often if the fuel is really that big of an issue.
Why would you make a recommendation if you don't "remember"? These kind of things confuse people who are looking for real answers. Please don't post just to post.
Here is Max Wanderers post:
if you want to change out your break in oil before break in is completed, you'll want a good moly rich oil. Motorcraft, Havoline or Pennzoil? They once had good doses of moly, not sure about now. Getting a layer of moly on the new engines internals is generally the reason manufacturers recommend running the OE fill for the full length, because the next OCI is not guaranteed moly as part of it's chemistry. Knowing that makes it really easy to think around that problem.
He doesnt remember if they have lots of moly in them or not. Make sure you ask him not to post just to post!
Funny, when I typed that, I knowingly put myself at risk to getting calle just like you. Moly content could have recently changed, I can't just overlook that. I dont have all the answers, so i must disclaim, but I know they once all had moly and still may. And for the record, it's Wander not Wanderer
.Originally Posted By: RI_RS4
Max,
Really now? VW/Audi factory oil does not contain Moly. Occasionally a little Moly from assembly lubes show up, but quite often no Moly shows up in the 1st UOA.
I suppose I was alluding specifically to Honda break-in rationale. Theyre prominantly leading the "leave the FF in for the full term" camp. They insist you leave the moly rich FF in until all surfaces are effectively "plated". I suppose that could be a small contributing factor that allows their engines to wear so well (that and the leisurely torque production
).Originally Posted By: Max_Wander
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
Originally Posted By: globey
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
any dino will get you 5K but i understand your concerns with the fuel dilution issues. cant remember if it was PP that handled fuel dilution better than others or another one. honestly cant remember
Did you just recommend a dino for a fuel diluting turbo charged application? Isn't that a bit gutsy?
i did but also understand his fuel dilution issues. he said he will be doing 5K intervals and mentioned a dino will get him 5K intervals. he can also do dino and change out more often if the fuel is really that big of an issue.
Why would you make a recommendation if you don't "remember"? These kind of things confuse people who are looking for real answers. Please don't post just to post.
Here is Max Wanderers post:
if you want to change out your break in oil before break in is completed, you'll want a good moly rich oil. Motorcraft, Havoline or Pennzoil? They once had good doses of moly, not sure about now. Getting a layer of moly on the new engines internals is generally the reason manufacturers recommend running the OE fill for the full length, because the next OCI is not guaranteed moly as part of it's chemistry. Knowing that makes it really easy to think around that problem.
He doesnt remember if they have lots of moly in them or not. Make sure you ask him not to post just to post!
Funny, when I typed that, I knowingly put myself at risk to getting calle just like you. Moly content could have recently changed, I can't just overlook that. I dont have all the answers, so i must disclaim, but I know they once all had moly and still may. And for the record, it's Wander not Wanderer.
Originally Posted By: RI_RS4
Max,
Really now? VW/Audi factory oil does not contain Moly. Occasionally a little Moly from assembly lubes show up, but quite often no Moly shows up in the 1st UOA.
I suppose I was alluding specifically to Honda break-in rationale. Theyre prominantly leading the "leave the FF in for the full term" camp. They insist you leave the moly rich FF in until all surfaces are effectively "plated". I suppose that could be a small contributing factor that allows their engines to wear so well (that and the leisurely torque production).
roger , wander
ooops, that is a post just to post i assume, sorry
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
Originally Posted By: globey
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
any dino will get you 5K but i understand your concerns with the fuel dilution issues. cant remember if it was PP that handled fuel dilution better than others or another one. honestly cant remember
Did you just recommend a dino for a fuel diluting turbo charged application? Isn't that a bit gutsy?
i did but also understand his fuel dilution issues. he said he will be doing 5K intervals and mentioned a dino will get him 5K intervals. he can also do dino and change out more often if the fuel is really that big of an issue.
Why would you make a recommendation if you don't "remember"? These kind of things confuse people who are looking for real answers. Please don't post just to post.
Here is Max Wanderers post:
if you want to change out your break in oil before break in is completed, you'll want a good moly rich oil. Motorcraft, Havoline or Pennzoil? They once had good doses of moly, not sure about now. Getting a layer of moly on the new engines internals is generally the reason manufacturers recommend running the OE fill for the full length, because the next OCI is not guaranteed moly as part of it's chemistry. Knowing that makes it really easy to think around that problem.
He doesnt remember if they have lots of moly in them or not. Make sure you ask him not to post just to post!
Funny, when I typed that, I knowingly put myself at risk to getting calle just like you. Moly content could have recently changed, I can't just overlook that. I dont have all the answers, so i must disclaim, but I know they once all had moly and still may. And for the record, it's Wander not Wanderer
.Originally Posted By: RI_RS4
Max,
Really now? VW/Audi factory oil does not contain Moly. Occasionally a little Moly from assembly lubes show up, but quite often no Moly shows up in the 1st UOA.
I suppose I was alluding specifically to Honda break-in rationale. Theyre prominantly leading the "leave the FF in for the full term" camp. They insist you leave the moly rich FF in until all surfaces are effectively "plated". I suppose that could be a small contributing factor that allows their engines to wear so well (that and the leisurely torque production
).roger , wander
ooops, that is a post just to post i assume, sorry
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