Is this how to get a caliper to retract? 🤣

[Brybo86]

1997 Acura RL
Front calipers must have some corrosion inside.
They would not go back in with normal strategies.

C clamp vice grips under significant pressure then hammer the back of the c clamp to get them back in...lol

 

[spasm3]

Were the bleeders open when you used the C-clamp to pushed the piston back in?

 

[hemitom]

1997 Acura RL
Front calipers must have some corrosion inside.
They would not go back in with normal strategies.

C clamp vice grips under significant pressure then hammer the back of the c clamp to get them back in...lol

Should have put a brake pad on top of the piston to push it back, lucky you didn't crack the piston.

 

[Chris142]

Don't come crying to us in 3 weeks when it wears the pads out already.

 

[Silver]

Can't be good.

Were the bleeders open when you used the C-clamp to pushed the piston back in?

Ooph!

 

[Hall]

Should have put a brake pad on top of the piston to push it back, lucky you didn't crack the piston.

Yeap, the piston walls are probably only about an 1/8" thick so that C-clamp might crack it with enough pressure. It would distribute the force a little better too.

 

[Trav]

More Information for ACDELCO 18FR999

More Information for ACDELCO 18FR1000

 

[Oro_O]

In that scenario i would pop them OUT, not push them in. Then I'd clean up the bore and walls and inspect the seal. I'd rather do the job once than deal with it seizing this winter.

I did a 2000my car this past winter, it doesn't take long.

Tossed some color and braided lines on the whole thing and it's much better now.

 

[53' Stude]

1997 Acura RL
Front calipers must have some corrosion inside.
They would not go back in with normal strategies.

C clamp vice grips under significant pressure then hammer the back of the c clamp to get them back in...lol

That’s how a hack mechanic breaks stuff. Highly advise against it

 

[Brybo86]

Were the bleeders open when you used the C-clamp to pushed the piston back in?

Yes they were open.

Should have put a brake pad on top of the piston to push it back, lucky you didn't crack the piston.

I tried that first, took a hammer to them but it didn't budge.

Yeap, the piston walls are probably only about an 1/8" thick so that C-clamp might crack it with enough pressure. It would distribute the force a little better too.

I think most of the pressure was directed toward the edge of the piston, that part the normally touches the pads, as it was a bit marred after all the hammering.

In that scenario i would pop them OUT, not push them in. Then I'd clean up the bore and walls and inspect the seal. I'd rather do the job once than deal with it seizing this winter.

I did a 2000my car this past winter, it doesn't take long.

It certainly crossed my mind but i didn't have any new seals on hand.
What is the easiest way to get the piston out without it blasting off and making a big mess?

That’s how a hack mechanic breaks stuff. Highly advise against it

I don't claim to be a professional. I knew this was a hack job. Why do you think I posted it with a and LOL
I did this and posted this purely for my bitog buddies enjoyment.

 

[Oro_O]

It certainly crossed my mind but i didn't have any new seals on hand.
What is the easiest way to get the piston out without it blasting off and making a big mess?

You don't necessarily have to use new seals. I did not in those pics above.

Put a board across the back of the caliper arms and press the brakes gently. It will pop and fluid dump, but it won't shoot away and get scuffed, etc. You could hang the thing in a 5 gal bucket to catch the piston and the fluid.

Clean up all surfaces with some crocus cloth and /or finer paper. Will be good insurance and likely improve the braking performance quite a bit.

Also, and I DO NOT want to sound like a noodge, but around heavier tools, jacks, etc. I won't wear flip-flops no matter how hot it is. I have a pair of those Keens/river sandal things and that's the minimum to wear in hot weather. besides droping something on your foot, it's also about slipping and lack of traction if you are doing something. River sandals are a nice compromise as they are secure enough, cool enough, and in fact offer some degree of toe protection (and they are cheap). I know it's August and all, but be safe.

ETA: here's some cheap ones on Amazon for $20:

https://www.amazon.com/heyun-Sandal...cphy=9033430&hvtargid=pla-1682651404015&psc=1

 

[Jetronic]

1997 Acura RL
Front calipers must have some corrosion inside.
They would not go back in with normal strategies.

C clamp vice grips under significant pressure then hammer the back of the c clamp to get them back in...lol

they might not come back out in a normal way. This was rebuild time....

 

[Jetronic]

Should have put a brake pad on top of the piston to push it back, lucky you didn't crack the piston.

I've used old pistons with a hydraulic press, they don't crack.

 

[Jetronic]

Yes they were open.

I tried that first, took a hammer to them but it didn't budge.

I think most of the pressure was directed toward the edge of the piston, that part the normally touches the pads, as it was a bit marred after all the hammering.

It certainly crossed my mind but i didn't have any new seals on hand.
What is the easiest way to get the piston out without it blasting off and making a big mess?

I don't claim to be a professional. I knew this was a hack job. Why do you think I posted it with a and LOL
I did this and posted this purely for my bitog buddies enjoyment.

The easiest way is to use your foot on the brake., I put some foam rags or a block of wood in the caliper if I use compressed air to get them out. But you can build more pressure on the car....

 

[Brybo86]

The easiest way is to use your foot on the brake., I put some foam rags or a block of wood in the caliper if I use compressed air to get them out. But you can build more pressure on the car....

Yeh I'm guessing they are going to need some significant pressure to come out.
For the front calipers the only thing showing in rebuild kit is the boot, seal, and circlip, seems pretty simple for $5 from rockauto.
Maybe I'll order the rebuild kits, do I need oem or is any brand ok?
Car is a 1997 Acura RL with 140k. Minimal rust.

 

[mk378]

The best way to retract front pistons is before taking anything apart, apply a big clamp from the center of the outside pad all the way around to the back side of the caliper "pot."

 

[paulo57509]

if got to the point where I had to hammer them back (I use the c-clamp method on the old pad), I would have purchased rebuilt ones.

 

[Jetronic]

Yeh I'm guessing they are going to need some significant pressure to come out.
For the front calipers the only thing showing in rebuild kit is the boot, seal, and circlip, seems pretty simple for $5 from rockauto.
Maybe I'll order the rebuild kits, do I need oem or is any brand ok?
Car is a 1997 Acura RL with 140k. Minimal rust.

Not sure if any and every brand is ok, most should be. But I'm worried the pistons will be severely corroded and pitted. how much for a new piston?

 

[Brybo86]

The best way to retract front pistons is before taking anything apart, apply a big clamp from the outside pad all the way around to the back side of the caliper "pot."

My c clamp isn't big enough to go around the back of caliper and a pad, I had to put it inside the piston first then around caliper

 

[mk378]

Quite simply, you're using the wrong tool there.

If you don't have a big clamp you could also use a screwdriver or two to pry between the outside pad and the rotor, assuming you're about to replace both of those parts anyway.