Is it ok to use Fram if it's free?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Quote:
Here's a jingle I just thought of...
A FRAM FOR FREE IS A GOOD CHOICE INDEED.
I'm available for hire...

smirk2.gif
Oh, puhlease!!
LOL.gif
 
FRAM for free is good. as stated many times, just make sure you replace it at every oil change.

if i had to buy an oil filter, it wouldn't be FRAM. for the same price or sometimes lower, you can get better filters, like WIX.
 
Originally Posted By: TheKevin
FRAM for free is good. as stated many times, just make sure you replace it at every oil change.

if i had to buy an oil filter, it wouldn't be FRAM. for the same price or sometimes lower, you can get better filters, like WIX.


X2.

I have used them ( 2500-3000 OCI's )and sold them as well. As long as you already have them use them. I wouldn't run them for 5K though, I would change them out by 3000-3500 max. JMHO.

I would never specifically buy a Fram filter anymore. KNow too much about what "might" happen using them. As was said you can get better quality for the same or less cost wise. Fram filters are cheap junk but if free they can do the job for 3K or so.
 
Last edited:
FRAM? Frequently Ruins Auto Motors? Just kiddin. I got a bag full for 75 cents each and will use for winter(short) OCI about 4-5 months and low miles. It seems that for 4-5 dollars they are overpriced/under built, at least from opinions here, and for 2 dollars maybe ok. Is as little as 2-3 dollars going to change all the ill will toward them?
 
I wish I could get some purolators here in Canada, looks like they aren't available at any of the parts store here. The reason I like the champion manufactured ecore style is, it seems to me that it would let more oil cirulate because of the vinyl cage, which has bigger larger openings.
 
Previously I used Fram's for years in my Rabbits and Golfs. The only "problem" I usually encountered was the gasket was loose a lot of times and had to return the filter. Finally learned to inspect the filter before I left the store
smirk2.gif
. With my Ford vehicles and the filter being horizontal on the engine I've run into continuous problems with Fram's poorly constructed nitrile ADBV. It caused painful dry starts, especially in the colder temps. I was changing my oil & filter at 3,000 mile OCI's usually.

Ironically now Motorcraft FL820S filters with the silicon ADBV are less expensive at Walmart than the base Fram's in the Orange can.

Whimsey
 
OK, you got your answer. But...lets frame the issue.

I had the same dilemma when I could get Purolator filters on sale for $0.01 for as a substitute for MC FL-820S ($3.48 @ WM).

Over 200K miles at 5K OCI the MC cost is $140. Not much and very little if better performance.

I did buy one Pur. and found my application is sensitive to ADBV so I'm glad I did not buy more at $0.01.

On the other hand if I have the filters already I would probably use them and find some way to mitigate risk (5000km is short so that's mitigating)

The YB oil is GrpII+, similair to a blend, could do say 7000km.

Look at total OCI cost.
 
I was told to not go above 5000km oci on this mitsu 3.0L engine because it's prone to getting sludged up. I guess there are some pathways built in the valve covers which can get blocked. This is on a 96 caravan. I'm sure otherwise, that the PYB could do more then 5000km.
 
Last edited:
You were told that due to the oils of the vintage. I got the same advice outside of the owners manual advisory. It was like an addendum. It was due to shearing or some other fatigue item in the oil. Mine would use no oil until 3k ..then use it routinely. These were not sludge engines. They were valve seal/guide/HLA issue engines. After you got passed the oddball way that Japanese engineers did things, they turned out to be darn good engines.
 
Hi, Gary, I noticed reading some of your posts here that you have a similar van with same engine. I have to say the lifter noise can be pretty annoying sometimes. Today, when i fired up the van for the first time the temperature was around 15celsius below, it started up fine but as it warms up it starts ticking (after a few mintues), it doesn't affect the performance of the engine though, it just sound like a diesel, but even this is not all the time, only sometimes, it's intermittent. I have already autorxed it twice, to see if the ticking goes away, but it didn't help with that, i'm sure it helped in other ways though.
 
Originally Posted By: MrBiglund
I was told to not go above 5000km oci on this mitsu 3.0L engine because it's prone to getting sludged up. I guess there are some pathways built in the valve covers which can get blocked. This is on a 96 caravan. I'm sure otherwise, that the PYB could do more then 5000km.


That's not true... My dad has the same engine as you and changes his oil regularly at 10,000KM+ with whatever he can find and he has over 300,000KM on it and the engine isn't using oil.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: MrBiglund
I was told to not go above 5000km oci on this mitsu 3.0L engine because it's prone to getting sludged up. I guess there are some pathways built in the valve covers which can get blocked. This is on a 96 caravan. I'm sure otherwise, that the PYB could do more then 5000km.


That's not true... My dad has the same engine as you and changes his oil regularly at 10,000KM+ with whatever he can find and he has over 300,000KM on it and the engine isn't using oil.


It's good to hear that, I might go a bit longer this time, maybe 7000km, it's just that on some chrysler forums there were a few posts where people were saying something regarding the passageways in the valve covers getting blocked easily, etc., Oh, and that store chain you had mentioned earlier, I don't think there are any parts stores belonging to that chain where i live. I do have napa, carquest, and autosense here though, but none of them carry purolator filters.
 
The PCV valves are a big problem on these engines and probablly caused the sludge issues... I would change every 20,000KM and run your oil to 10,000KM with a quality oil and you will be more than fine. This isn't his first 3.0 Litre Mitsubiatchie engine either! (My dad also worked for Chrysler for 20 years) Sleep easy!
grin2.gif
 
I changed the pcv valve a little over a year ago, i'm sure it's been over 20000km now, i guess it's time to change it again, i'll wait for the weather to get a bit warmer though, it's so cold here, just the mere act of breathing outside forms ice crystals. lol.
 
A cheap or free Fram is great - [censored] our beater Nissan Quest has sparkling innards when I pulled the valve covers off this week and its seen Fram a few times.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I would rather pay double for an Amsoil EAO filter and use it for 3-4 times as long with better filtration and better flow...


Double of free is still free. Now where can I get Amsoil EAO for free?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

S
Microgard Extended or M1 Extended Performance
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
ZeeOSix
mattbruns3
Is Fram ultra synthetic a good oil filter for a 2001 Toyota Camry?
Replies
9
Views
464
THORROMIG
D
Motorcraft (Mann Hummel) used to be great
Replies
1
Views
326
ZeeOSix
BrokenAudiTT
Fram titanium and extra guard okay to use?
Replies
7
Views
625
ZeeOSix
MetalSlug
I miss fram oil filters
2
Replies
29
Views
2K
logain
Back
Top Bottom