Aquariuscsm, the valvoline maxlife worked the best at keeping the tap to a minimum. When I changed over to amsoil, it basically tapped non-stop. With the valvoline, it would stop after about 10 minutes in to a drive.
Intermittent lifter noise just started. LS 5.3
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Originally Posted by Deerslayer
Based on what I saw when I took my oil pan off, it would take a lot of extra oil to reach that high up the tube.
Raise the rear of the truck as high as you can & deflate the front tires. A lot easier with a lift! Then about 3 extra quarts does it.
Based on what I saw when I took my oil pan off, it would take a lot of extra oil to reach that high up the tube.
Raise the rear of the truck as high as you can & deflate the front tires. A lot easier with a lift! Then about 3 extra quarts does it.
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Originally Posted by Deerslayer
Based on what I saw when I took my oil pan off, it would take a lot of extra oil to reach that high up the tube.
Raise the rear of the truck as high as you can & deflate the front tires. A lot easier with a lift! Then about 3 extra quarts does it.
Oh, so you've actually done it? Cool. I wasn't sure if it would work.
Originally Posted by Deerslayer
Based on what I saw when I took my oil pan off, it would take a lot of extra oil to reach that high up the tube.
Raise the rear of the truck as high as you can & deflate the front tires. A lot easier with a lift! Then about 3 extra quarts does it.
Oh, so you've actually done it? Cool. I wasn't sure if it would work.
Yes sir.....I was a GM dealership tech when this issue first cropped up, Learned this trick at a training class. The early LSx engine were a lot more prone to this than the later ones & happened within powertrain warranty quite frequently.
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Yes sir.....I was a GM dealership tech when this issue first cropped up, Learned this trick at a training class. The early LSx engine were a lot more prone to this than the later ones & happened within powertrain warranty quite frequently.
Thanks for the tip. I will file that away for later use.
Yes sir.....I was a GM dealership tech when this issue first cropped up, Learned this trick at a training class. The early LSx engine were a lot more prone to this than the later ones & happened within powertrain warranty quite frequently.
Thanks for the tip. I will file that away for later use.
Yes, They did. But it just prolonged the inevitable. The early designs slipped into the oil pump quite easily with a good lube, The later ones take some force.
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Yes, They did. But it just prolonged the inevitable. The early designs slipped into the oil pump quite easily with a good lube, The later ones take some force.
My 05 4.8 just started ticking after the last oil change. I went from Pennzoil high mileage conventional and a cheap ecoguard filter to Quaker state full synthetic high mileage and a fram ultra. It was silent before other than piston slap on extremely cold starts. As soon as I started it after the oil change it had a discreet but noticeable lifter tap. Piston slap also now happens every cold start. I've never had an oil change make such a noticeable difference before.
The tap occasionally gets a bit quieter but it's always there now. I've gone 600 miles since the oil change a month ago. I'm thinking about switching it to some Castrol edge 10w30 I have in the garage and see if that changes it, but I'm worried about the oil pump pickup o ring. If this was the problem would it not affect the oil pressure? Oil pressure looks to be as good as a new engine.
The weird thing is a couple of years ago this truck started to develop steadily lower oil pressure about 2k miles into an oil change and as soon as it was changed it went back up. This lasted for about 3 oil changes of 3k each and then the problem never came back.
It currently has 195k miles and 8400 engine hours, since 120k it's had conventional changed every 3-5k miles. Before that, unknown. It was the bosses truck and he usually drives and the dash says to change the oil.
Yes, They did. But it just prolonged the inevitable. The early designs slipped into the oil pump quite easily with a good lube, The later ones take some force.
My 05 4.8 just started ticking after the last oil change. I went from Pennzoil high mileage conventional and a cheap ecoguard filter to Quaker state full synthetic high mileage and a fram ultra. It was silent before other than piston slap on extremely cold starts. As soon as I started it after the oil change it had a discreet but noticeable lifter tap. Piston slap also now happens every cold start. I've never had an oil change make such a noticeable difference before.
The tap occasionally gets a bit quieter but it's always there now. I've gone 600 miles since the oil change a month ago. I'm thinking about switching it to some Castrol edge 10w30 I have in the garage and see if that changes it, but I'm worried about the oil pump pickup o ring. If this was the problem would it not affect the oil pressure? Oil pressure looks to be as good as a new engine.
The weird thing is a couple of years ago this truck started to develop steadily lower oil pressure about 2k miles into an oil change and as soon as it was changed it went back up. This lasted for about 3 oil changes of 3k each and then the problem never came back.
It currently has 195k miles and 8400 engine hours, since 120k it's had conventional changed every 3-5k miles. Before that, unknown. It was the bosses truck and he usually drives and the dash says to change the oil.
Triple_Se7en
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caprice
Some GM makes have issues with Fram Ultras. You may want to try a less effcient trapper.
Some GM makes have issues with Fram Ultras. You may want to try a less effcient trapper.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
caprice
Some GM makes have issues with Fram Ultras. You may want to try a less effcient trapper.
I read the same thing several times last night after posting this. I'll be trying to obtain an orange can of death now today and try that. It feels counter intuitive to have to use the lower quality product but it is what it is.
I've been using the fram ultra and Mobil 1 ep on my 350 Oldsmobile and worn out 305 Chevy with no issues even though the 350 has somewhat low oil pressure. It's fussy about using nothing thicker than a 30 weight (conventional or synthetic) but doesn't care about the filter. Very slight rocker arm noise on 40 weight or thicker. Completely silent with the current Mobil 1 high mileage 5w30 and I usually use a Mobil 1 ep or Fram ultra whichever is on sale.
It's just a bizarre phenomenon.
Looking back through every picture I take of the dash morning and end of day (for my mileage log) the oil pressure (based on the factory gauge - who knows how accurate it is) is no lower than about 38psi hot idle in park. Accelerating onto the highway it goes to what appears to be close to 70psi. Cold starts it appears to be around 45ish. Its in kilopascals and I have to convert it to pounds to understand.
I'm going to stick with high mileage oil in case it can help prevent that o ring from going bad. Sounds like a lot of work to fix it in a 4 wheel drive, especially when you factors in the night as well stuff like timing chain and oil pump.
caprice
Some GM makes have issues with Fram Ultras. You may want to try a less effcient trapper.
I read the same thing several times last night after posting this. I'll be trying to obtain an orange can of death now today and try that. It feels counter intuitive to have to use the lower quality product but it is what it is.
I've been using the fram ultra and Mobil 1 ep on my 350 Oldsmobile and worn out 305 Chevy with no issues even though the 350 has somewhat low oil pressure. It's fussy about using nothing thicker than a 30 weight (conventional or synthetic) but doesn't care about the filter. Very slight rocker arm noise on 40 weight or thicker. Completely silent with the current Mobil 1 high mileage 5w30 and I usually use a Mobil 1 ep or Fram ultra whichever is on sale.
It's just a bizarre phenomenon.
Looking back through every picture I take of the dash morning and end of day (for my mileage log) the oil pressure (based on the factory gauge - who knows how accurate it is) is no lower than about 38psi hot idle in park. Accelerating onto the highway it goes to what appears to be close to 70psi. Cold starts it appears to be around 45ish. Its in kilopascals and I have to convert it to pounds to understand.
I'm going to stick with high mileage oil in case it can help prevent that o ring from going bad. Sounds like a lot of work to fix it in a 4 wheel drive, especially when you factors in the night as well stuff like timing chain and oil pump.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
caprice
Some GM makes have issues with Fram Ultras. You may want to try a less effcient trapper.
I bought a Fram extra guard today at the only place that was actually open and not a hassle to get into because of the pandemic (TSC) paid the same as the ultra was on sale for at Canadian tire ($11).
Drove to my friends place in the country to check my wheel bearings and some other stuff, grab a replacement air box from the nearby junkyard and was planning on changing the filter and seeing if it stopped the tick. But by the time I got there, the tick was completely gone. Maybe as the filter breaks in it starts to restrict flow less?
caprice
Some GM makes have issues with Fram Ultras. You may want to try a less effcient trapper.
I bought a Fram extra guard today at the only place that was actually open and not a hassle to get into because of the pandemic (TSC) paid the same as the ultra was on sale for at Canadian tire ($11).
Drove to my friends place in the country to check my wheel bearings and some other stuff, grab a replacement air box from the nearby junkyard and was planning on changing the filter and seeing if it stopped the tick. But by the time I got there, the tick was completely gone. Maybe as the filter breaks in it starts to restrict flow less?
Originally Posted by buddylpal
Maybe you have some carbon buildup in the combustion chamber causing the lifter sounding noise.
I suppose it's possible but it sounded more like a lifter plus it started immediately after the oil change.
Maybe you have some carbon buildup in the combustion chamber causing the lifter sounding noise.
I suppose it's possible but it sounded more like a lifter plus it started immediately after the oil change.
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Yes, They did. But it just prolonged the inevitable. The early designs slipped into the oil pump quite easily with a good lube, The later ones take some force.
Can you tell me what is considered normal oil pressure for these engines at 200k miles? I finally got the pid for oil pressure in my torque pro app and the factory gauge is actually pretty close, I've got 35psi hot idle in gear. 47psi driving at like 1400 rpm.
Yes, They did. But it just prolonged the inevitable. The early designs slipped into the oil pump quite easily with a good lube, The later ones take some force.
Can you tell me what is considered normal oil pressure for these engines at 200k miles? I finally got the pid for oil pressure in my torque pro app and the factory gauge is actually pretty close, I've got 35psi hot idle in gear. 47psi driving at like 1400 rpm.
That's really good for 200K!!! Especially given Cam Bearing wear!! Your sensor could be off as much as 10% though! I know that because I've used them as Pressure Transducers for Data Logging transmission clutch pressures.
My fresh L92 with a stock LS6 oil pump runs @45 psi hot idle in gear with 10w30 @ 190° ECT. Steady 1900 rpm produces @55 psi because the pump is in "Relief" at that point.....I might see 60psi at 6500 rpm.
My car runs a Resistive Analog type sensor instead of a Digital Transducer like your truck.....But it's within 3% at steady state, Kinda lags behind a Transducer in responsiveness though.
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/Omj5fsY.jpg "[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]")
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/GX6ulI4.jpg "[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]")
My fresh L92 with a stock LS6 oil pump runs @45 psi hot idle in gear with 10w30 @ 190° ECT. Steady 1900 rpm produces @55 psi because the pump is in "Relief" at that point.....I might see 60psi at 6500 rpm.
My car runs a Resistive Analog type sensor instead of a Digital Transducer like your truck.....But it's within 3% at steady state, Kinda lags behind a Transducer in responsiveness though.
I took some screenshots today. This is only my second day getting the oil pressure pid on here. I didn't get a chance to wind it out at all, working in town all day, and my bosses company name on the side of the truck, hard to drive it aggressively.
I posted cold start idling, then still cold driving, hot idle and hot driving. I added RPM later in the day so it gives better context.
A bit lower at idle than I first stated, but it seems pretty reasonable. Tomorrow night I'm going to remove the Fram ultra and install the extra guard to see if it fixes the intermittent lifter tick and piston slap that started immediately after the oil change. I'll also be able to see if it has any effect on oil pressure now.
The sender is original so it could be off, but usually they read low when they fail right?
I posted cold start idling, then still cold driving, hot idle and hot driving. I added RPM later in the day so it gives better context.
A bit lower at idle than I first stated, but it seems pretty reasonable. Tomorrow night I'm going to remove the Fram ultra and install the extra guard to see if it fixes the intermittent lifter tick and piston slap that started immediately after the oil change. I'll also be able to see if it has any effect on oil pressure now.
The sender is original so it could be off, but usually they read low when they fail right?
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2003 & up senders usually short to 5-volts internally & peg the gauge over 80psi. Other than that I haven't seen any age based performance degradation. But like I said....They can be off 10% right out of the box.
I got 75 psi oil pressure at wot 5200~ rpm. Give or take 10%. I'm going to hopefully change the filter tonight, and see how it affects the tick, piston slap and oil pressure if at all. The tick will be hardest to judge because it's almost unnoticeable now, and comes and goes, or I would have changed the filter sooner. Piston slap should be obvious because it used to have none unless it was below minus 10.
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