Interesting clamp failure

OVERKILL

OVERKILL

$100 Site Donor 2021
Joined
Apr 28, 2008
Messages
58,094
Location
Ontario, Canada
The Borla cat-back on my wife's RAM 1500 was installed by the dealer. Well, about two months ago I noticed the one pipe was sitting funny and I've been putting off climbing under it to see why.

Well, finally got around to it on the weekend and the clamp split in half šŸ˜³

9AED702C-38F4-4913-A25B-6D900F992236_1_105_c.jpeg

91AE7C3E-2C49-4263-8DB1-B14DDD93963F_1_105_c.jpeg


It was obviously leaking, but not audibly, which is interesting, but it's post-muffler so I guess that's why.

So, popped up to Canadian Tire and bought the only band-style clamp they have, which is like 3" wide. I'm going to reach out to Borla to see about warranty on it.

I assume this was due to the dealer over-tightening it (probably using a small impact on them?) but I'm still surprised.
 
OVERKILL said:
The Borla cat-back on my wife's RAM 1500 was installed by the dealer. Well, about two months ago I noticed the one pipe was sitting funny and I've been putting off climbing under it to see why.

Well, finally got around to it on the weekend and the clamp split in half šŸ˜³

View attachment 181649
View attachment 181646

It was obviously leaking, but not audibly, which is interesting, but it's post-muffler so I guess that's why.

So, popped up to Canadian Tire and bought the only band-style clamp they have, which is like 3" wide. I'm going to reach out to Borla to see about warranty on it.

I assume this was due to the dealer over-tightening it (probably using a small impact on them?) but I'm still surprised.
Click to expand...
I know what happened - used it too much when it was new šŸ§
 
I think that's corrosion related. When some grades of stainless corrode, it does so internally. Starting with a very small spot on the outside and leading to a complete internal failure.

It is often seen as pitting corrosion from the outside and a localized failure with obvious intergranular corrosion.

EDIT: It could be strain related, as when such corrosion starts, the remaining metal is under ever increasing strain.

Just thinking aloud here, our helicopter which sees some maritime operations, ends up with quite a bit of this type of corrosion. When ever I see a pit starting on the stainless, the part gets replaced. I can't know what alloy was chosen, so off it goes. Many of the straps and stainless springs fail if ignored.
 
Cujet said:
I think that's corrosion related. When some grades of stainless corrode, it does so internally. Leading to a very small spot on the outside and a complete internal failure.

It is often seen as pitting corrosion from the outside and localized intergranular corrosion.
Click to expand...
If that's the case, that's pretty wild, the system was installed just after I got rid of the Audi, so May of 2020.
 
That is an interesting one. When I messed with the muffler delete pipe on my 2019 Ram 1500 classic hemi w/ single exhaust for a bit, it had those style band clamps. I feared the bolt and hex head were too rusted, but an electric impact and some spray lube made quick work of it on/off a couple times.
 
Someplace I read that exhaust systems can expand an inch or more. Thatā€™s why there are flex pipes and rubber mounts.

I suspect that it was over tightened, and while the primary expansion direction is lengthwise, it will also expand radially, eventually stressing and tearing.
 
jkasch said:
In my college days, (early 70ā€™s) two hose clamps and a Coke can would have been my fix.
Click to expand...
I temporarily joined my exhaust pipe, which needed another half inch length, to clear airbag heat shield, in 2007 with a steel baked bean can and 4 worm drive hose clamps.

I replace the can every two years or so, carry another steel can, still same worm drive screw clamps. 8mm heads.

Ive started painting them black, though that seemed to do little to slow the rusting out.

I keep meaning to fix it proper.
Oh well. Easier to save a steel can , cut it lengthwise, paint it and have it ready to go, every 2 years or so.

Passed California OBD 1 visual, and sniffer tests every two years.
 
wrcsixeight said:
I temporarily joined my exhaust pipe, which needed another half inch length, to clear airbag heat shield, in 2007 with a steel baked bean can and 4 worm drive hose clamps.

I replace the can every two years or so, carry another steel can, still same worm drive screw clamps. 8mm heads.

Ive started painting them black, though that seemed to do little to slow the rusting out.

I keep meaning to fix it proper.
Oh well. Easier to save a steel can , cut it lengthwise, paint it and have it ready to go, every 2 years or so.

Passed California OBD 1 visual, and sniffer tests every two years.
Click to expand...
Thatā€™s it! (Coke cans were much more substantial 50 years ago.) ;)
 
At least yours broke, my clamp is pure rust at this point!

It is ā€œfixedā€ thoughā€¦ if by ā€œfixedā€ you mean I simply slid the one part back into the muffler and prayed that it didnā€™t immediately come back apart. So far itā€™s working!
IMG_8479.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Z
Exhaust repair ideas
Replies
17
Views
736
GMBoy
J
Help with exhaust clamp suggestions
Replies
11
Views
1K
t1snwrbrdr12
G
Odd Failure Of Constant Tension Spring Clamp
Replies
15
Views
3K
John105
T
Radiator hose connection leaking
2 3
Replies
53
Views
3K
Snagglefoot
A
Exhaust pipe coupler clamps catalog anywhere?
Replies
3
Views
421
bullwinkle
Back
Top