Inexpensive catalytic converter worth it?

[WobblyElvis]

The catalytic converter on my 2016 Elantra has decided to clog up. Currently at 135,000 miles, I noticed it was down on power about a year ago but didn't think much of it. Drives alright if you take it very easy. No codes for catalytic failure and there is no emissions testing here. The engine consumes 1 litre/3,500 miles.
New factory converter = $1,500. .Cheapest universal converter = $75. The converter is a simple inline round section with an o2 sensor in the side/middle. I imagine a universal is the way to go. I can find ultra cheap for $75. And magnaflow or eastern for about $200. Can't find a walker that fits the bill.

So the questions.....has anyone had any luck with the cheaper [$100 - $200] converters? I don't want to replace it in 3 months but It doesn't have to last forever.

Any recommendations?

 

[Timmastertech]

On something that new it is unlikely that an economy cat will pass the catalyst monitor and keep the check engine light off. We have stopped selling aftermarket catalytic converters because I got tired of having comebacks a week later

 

[joegreen]

I put an entire replacement exhaust on my 02 accord 4 years ago and it’s been fine. The cats were included and it was pretty cheap. It’s a carb ulev vehicle with special o2 sensors and its fine with the cats that came with the exhaust. No cel or power or smell issues.

 

[Soft Cars]

Out here in California they don't let you buy just any catalytic converter; it has to match the numbers on your hood sticker.

For me it was $900 for the catalytic converter + $100 labor to install it.

 

[Tkonrr]

I believe your cat would be covered under the federal mandated emissions warranty. Hyundai covered the cat on my 99 Elantra when it was a few years old, no charge.

 

[WobblyElvis]

Cat warranty is good for only 80,000 miles so I'm out of luck there. There are CARB compliant universal converts available for about $550. Maybe I'll have to go that route. The Hyundai converter is sold as part of the exhaust pipe and resonator [4 ft long] I should call and ask if they sell a weld in converter only. Still looking for options.

 

[Torrid]

I’m not really willing to play around with emissions goofiness so I’d prefer stock myself. Considering how the crackdowns have been on cats with aftermarket tuning I figure it’s just not worth the trouble.

 

[Lubener]

The clogged converter is a symptom of another problem. Converters should last much longer than 135 k miles. Until you get that problem fixed with your engine, the new converter will plug up too.

 

[Torrid]

The clogged converter is a symptom of another problem. Until you get that problem fixed with your engine, the new converter will plug up too.

It is pretty low miles to clog one to be honest.

 

[WobblyElvis]

Fuel trims look excellent and it does not consume a lot of oil. Twice in the past I have had to replace the EVAP canister purge valve. Both times the code was not present for more than 2 weeks.

I think the problem is....it's a Hyundai.

 

[nate379]

Unclog it and put a non fouler on the back 02 sensor.

 

[HowAboutThis]

If there are no check engine lights how do you know your CAT is bad? That's my question. You guessing? You remove it and look inside?

 

[WobblyElvis]

When you drive it, it's obvious. Feel, power, lack of response, spongy power delivery, smell, scanner indicator PID engine load, and I took it to the local muffler shop for evaluation. Some kind of pressure test.

 

[dumkid]

If it's just plugged with soot you can try running your engine at higher rpm/load to burn it off maybe? My experience is mostly with diesels, idk if cats on gasoline cars plug like a dpf, or if you can unplug them by raising your egts.

 

[Malo83]

I tried this out and truck ran great with the LT.

 

[TheLastWord]

The catalytic converter on my 2016 Elantra has decided to clog up. Currently at 135,000 miles, I noticed it was down on power about a year ago but didn't think much of it. Drives alright if you take it very easy. No codes for catalytic failure and there is no emissions testing here. The engine consumes 1 litre/3,500 miles.
New factory converter = $1,500. .Cheapest universal converter = $75. The converter is a simple inline round section with an o2 sensor in the side/middle. I imagine a universal is the way to go. I can find ultra cheap for $75. And magnaflow or eastern for about $200. Can't find a walker that fits the bill.

So the questions.....has anyone had any luck with the cheaper [$100 - $200] converters? I don't want to replace it in 3 months but It doesn't have to last forever.

Any recommendations?

"No codes for catalytic failure and there is no emissions testing here."

This is surprising. Progressive leftist Canada?

 

[Cujet]

We use the metal matrix cats on performance engines all the time. They are available with more. More catalyst that Is. A secondary O2 spacer is sometimes required.

 

[researcher]

The catalytic converter on my 2016 Elantra has decided to clog up. Currently at 135,000 miles, I noticed it was down on power about a year ago but didn't think much of it. Drives alright if you take it very easy. No codes for catalytic failure and there is no emissions testing here. The engine consumes 1 litre/3,500 miles.
New factory converter = $1,500. .Cheapest universal converter = $75. The converter is a simple inline round section with an o2 sensor in the side/middle. I imagine a universal is the way to go. I can find ultra cheap for $75. And magnaflow or eastern for about $200. Can't find a walker that fits the bill.

So the questions.....has anyone had any luck with the cheaper [$100 - $200] converters? I don't want to replace it in 3 months but It doesn't have to last forever.

Any recommendations?

I replaced the catalytic on my Civic with a no-name and it's been awesome! It was only like $100. On the Civic it's the exhaust manifold + the catalytic together. The aftermarket no-name came with two pieces, used studs to bolt it together. Been working fine for a couple of years. The cast iron exhaust manifold was actually thicker and better quality that the stock Honda, which was cheap/thin causing cracks to form and leaks. I took a chance for the price because even the honeycomb cat you could see through the openings was perfect.

The key to these aftermarket cats is the break-in procedure! No one does it anymore and they brick the cat. It's simple, start the car after the new cat was installed, do not hit the gas, let it idle up to operating temps (cooling fan comes on twice), shut car off, let it cool down.. then drive it.. That makes the difference.
Some of the aftermarket don't require that but the no-names do! That way the matting can harden in place properly.

I'd say go with the aftermarket, I've been pleased, and yes others have done emission tests on the one for mine and the emissions were lower than a stock result, brand new! Not bad at all.

 

[Lubener]

Fuel trims look excellent and it does not consume a lot of oil. Twice in the past I have had to replace the EVAP canister purge valve. Both times the code was not present for more than 2 weeks.

I think the problem is....it's a Hyundai.

You said consumption is a liter every 3500 miles, that may be enough to kill the CAT. Converters don't clog just because they are Hyundai.

 

[PandaBear]

It depends on your local law, and then depends on how long you want it to last. CARB compliant and OEM would likely last the longest and then the "Federal" cat may last just enough for warranty.

The problem though is if you have an oil burner eventually it will clog and poison again. So you need to decide if you want to fix it the right way including the oil burning, or just do the minimum to avoid CEL / failing local emission test.