I'm Quitting Synthetic

[Motorbike]

One can't look at a bad UOA even in the same engine and say unequivetably that it won't work for him .

Tooooooo many variables .

I think some of these Mobil 1 lubed engines are getting the snot drove outa them .

Get those motors a quart or more low on oil and the iron can rise in the analysis using any oil .

 

[Mystic]

I still have mixed feelings about synthetic oil. There are endless arguments either way. Certainly if somebody has something like a Corvette or an expensive BMW or MB then synthetics make sense. And synthetics make sense in the wintertime even if a person uses conventional oil the rest of the year (if you live in an area where it gets cold in the wintertime).

For an ordinary car or truck I just do not know. A person could go either of two ways and be safe. You could use conventional motor oil and change it every 3000-5000 miles or you could use synthetic oil and go longer. And of course add oil if you are low.

Personally I like Auto-RX (or you could use Neutra) and cleaning the engine every 25,000 miles or so makes a lot of sense.

People at this web site using VOAs and UOAs have discovered many of the most likely quality conventional and synthetic motor oils.

 

[Motorbike]

With the rising costs of single quart dino's , the lowering cost of real synlubes 3-4k dino , 6-8k synlube ......synlube wins . Cleaner motor and one less oil filter not to mention the time spent changing and dry starts after drain .

Right there is much less wear over the course of 150k miles ... those dry starts when you hear those mains a hammering , top end a clacking

Most of these analysis differ in a few part per million . Thats parts per million ! The motors don't suffer from that small difference , they suffer from potential additives getting hit hard . One's like the dino's VII improvers that also play dual roles in group II oils . Hint... engine seals , additive fallout

 

[Last_Z]

quote:

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Originally posted by Motorbike:


I think some of these Mobil 1 lubed engines are getting the snot drove outa them .

---

**** right!

 

[rg144]

Meanwhile, getting back to the original thread "I'm quitting synthetics" ...
Haley10 had a leap of faith and left the synthetic fold. He entered a 12-step program - after entering a 12-step program that got him off the 3000 mile OCI. He found that synthetics (syn-tology as the Synthetic Life Study calls it) did not bring his engine higher enlightenment. So ... good things happen if you change dino fluid at 3K (buy a waste oil burner and heat your house!) or buy synthetics and install a bypass oil filter (which is what I did with M1) to spare it combustion by-products.

Can we come to closure here? How about high quality dino recommendation? Chevron looks good. I have used the latest pure-base Pennzoil (in my other 3 vehicles) and it's a great Group II+!!! This stuff rocks!! I'll bet anyone a UOA this stuff is good at 10K.

What else can we tell Haley10 to guide him - these are times that try men's souls (Churchill)?

[ February 27, 2004, 10:27 PM: Message edited by: rg144 ]

 

[Shannow]

quote:

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Originally posted by msparks:
Guess what I'll go out on a limb here. YOU CANNOT COMPARE UOA BETWEEN DINO AND SYNTHETIC IN ANY ENGINE.

It just can't be done.

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msparks,does that mean that UOA is meaningless ?

If it can't tell the huge difference between Dino/Synth, then how can it tell the minor differences between brand A and brand B ?

What can we trust, rather than a 300,000 mile teardown ?

 

[Alan]

Oil UOA's in Hydraulic and Compressor systems are not really ideal comparisons as the operate in really different conditions as opposed to combustion engines.

Lower wear in an application wear there is no combustion means nothing in an application in a combustion engine.

Dino's have proven themselves in PC applications.

We have used conventional mono 30W ND in an air compressor here at work for over 30 years and it has never given any problems at all.

 

[wtd]

Well, I had six oil analysis's done using Mobil 1 so I'm not baseing my decision on one analysis. I also don't plan on baseing my decision on whether or not I stay with Chevron Supreme on one analysis. I also do not agree that you cannot compare UOAs of synthetic and dino oils. Trend analysis of whatever oil you are using will show you how your particular engine is wearing regardless if its synthetic or not. If what you say is true, then UOA is useless. In my case, I did not see the benefits of using a synthetic that I thought I would, so I switched. The end of story. I may one day try synthetics again, but It probably won't be Mobil 1.

Wayne

 

[Steve S]

MSPARKS , Amsoil has compared uoas to try to prove their oils for as long as I can remember .I am not sure that there is less wear with syn oils as compared to equally additized petro oils. For example the heavy duty oils show comparable wear numbers to syn oils. Schaeffers oils for example show as good or better than syn oils. Other than real cold below 0 f I am not sure of any benefits of syn oil in most cases.

 

[moontan]

whatever you do dont use pennzoil,you will be able to make candles with the wax build up

[just kidding]

 

[CV-TC Man]

Just a small input for your thinking.
Has anyone been thinking what the "Coking" of Dino is? Syn does not do this, sure it is cheaper, but is it cheaper on your engine??
Just my thinking on this.

 

[haley10]

quote:

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Originally posted by CV-TC Man:
Just a small input for your thinking.
Has anyone been thinking what the "Coking" of Dino is? Syn does not do this, sure it is cheaper, but is it cheaper on your engine??
Just my thinking on this.

---

I tend to think of "coking" as something that happens with a Turbo. I would be running a high quality syn if I had a turbo for sure!! Normally aspirated engines running moderate temps are a different matter entirely.

 

[Cutehumor]

I too have found myself in "love" with syn oil since I found this site. I've never used the stuff though. what can I say, it's hard to beat dino oil for 60 cents a quart or less on sale. especially with the prices of dino oil going up recently. running premium syn with UOA's are costly. I run good quality dino on sale with once a year UOA to balance prices out. If your worried about deposits/sludge. Auto-rx it every 25k miles

 

[Steve S]

I'm not sure that pao base stock has alot higher resistance to coking over a group II+ base stock when compared to turbo operating temperatures?

 

[JohnBrowning]

I do not see the problem! IF synthetic is not right for you or you do not want to use it that is fine! Their is no need to feel guilty or anything like that!

Heck I have been known to switch back and forth from time to time. If you change your mind you can always come back! It is not like you are cutting off a perfectly good limb or anything!

P.S. I recently got Castrol Synthetic BLend 15W40 for $1 a quart! I am going to run it in my Camry as a test. I want to see how it holds up. I have every intenion on returning to synthetic oil after that run! It is not going to kill it! Many vechiles go 200,000-300,000 miles on dino oil!

 

[Last_Z]

quote:

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Originally posted by haley10:

quote:

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Originally posted by CV-TC Man:
Just a small input for your thinking.
Has anyone been thinking what the "Coking" of Dino is? Syn does not do this, sure it is cheaper, but is it cheaper on your engine??
Just my thinking on this.

---

I tend to think of "coking" as something that happens with a Turbo. I would be running a high quality syn if I had a turbo for sure!! Normally aspirated engines running moderate temps are a different matter entirely.

---

FYI,
My friend has a 92 MR2 turbo and uses Castrol GTX. He runs the turbo at 15psi and when we swapped it out for another one (more efficient), we did not notice anything unusual. The old turbo was put back after we failed to pre-lube the new one, killing the bearing

.....never had a problem and his car had something like 170-180k miles when we did this. Currently at 190k miles.

 

[mikep]

quote:

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Originally posted by Last_Z:
The old turbo was put back after we failed to pre-lube the new one, killing the bearing

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Sounds like something I would have done.

 

[Last_Z]

mikep,
Welcome to the club!

EDIT: That turbo sounded like the old sirens.....it was really funny!

 

[C T Puchniak]

I think I am with you.

We used synthetic in a 8.1 l GM Chev Avalanche--

Castrol Syntec 5w50 --1qt/300 miles

Castrol Syntec 10w30 --1qt/600 miles

Returned to Dino 5w30 and in 2000 miles no burn at all--We did the first 6000 miles with no oil burn using Dino 5w30--We are on an oil watch with GM.

Think that using the oil monitor on board we get 5000 to 7000 miles--there is no point of using a synthetic oil as much as I think it is a better lubricant!!

Any comments?

Clare

 

[GROUCHO MARX]

Clare,

I would go with Chevron, Havoline or Pennzoil dino. I think you'll be pleased.