If you are happy then that is all that matters. My car is direct injected, turbocharged and I am completely comfortable with PP or M1. I may try Redline once the warranty is up because of that pesky API thing.
I need facts only if possible...
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Redline is to Suzuki cars as Lipstick is to a pig...
Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
Redline is to Suzuki cars as Lipstick is to a pig...
Is think I saw that on a website! Lol....
Redline is to Suzuki cars as Lipstick is to a pig...
Is think I saw that on a website! Lol....
"I need facts only if possible"
I'm thinking this thread will set a record for # of posts. The guy wants facts. We've got facts. But then he'll have to pick which facts will become his facts - he may need another thread for that.
I'm thinking this thread will set a record for # of posts. The guy wants facts. We've got facts. But then he'll have to pick which facts will become his facts - he may need another thread for that.
I've seen mostly opinions. The only facts we have are Redline is a grpV ester and Mobil One is an unknown.
Nothing wrong with Mobil One but if I'm paying that kind of money, I'm spending it on something where I know what I'm getting.
Why is a Susuki not worth a good oil? If the engine lasts longer, it's worth it whether it's a $10,000 car or a $100,000 car. What's with the mediocrity lately? Some are satisfied by an average oil that will get you average results and that's fine. But you don't see me looking down on people that use average oil, so why does everyone have to flip out when someone wants the best? It almost seems like jealousy.
Nothing wrong with Mobil One but if I'm paying that kind of money, I'm spending it on something where I know what I'm getting.
Why is a Susuki not worth a good oil? If the engine lasts longer, it's worth it whether it's a $10,000 car or a $100,000 car. What's with the mediocrity lately? Some are satisfied by an average oil that will get you average results and that's fine. But you don't see me looking down on people that use average oil, so why does everyone have to flip out when someone wants the best? It almost seems like jealousy.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
If the engine lasts longer, it's worth it whether it's a $10,000 car or a $100,000 car.
But where is the proof that his engine will last longer on Redline? And what does "longer" mean? Is it a difference between 500k and 600k miles? Just asking...
If the engine lasts longer, it's worth it whether it's a $10,000 car or a $100,000 car.
But where is the proof that his engine will last longer on Redline? And what does "longer" mean? Is it a difference between 500k and 600k miles? Just asking...
I use PP in my NA forester, probably overkill, but I use it anyway. That's just the way it is. Use whatever makes you feel good when you're driving.
Will my car last longer?.. that's a crazy question. There are a lot of things that will require more attention to make the car "last longer" than what type of oil you use in a normally aspirated 4 banger.
Will my car last longer?.. that's a crazy question. There are a lot of things that will require more attention to make the car "last longer" than what type of oil you use in a normally aspirated 4 banger.
The FACT is that most engines in most cars will outlast the usefull life of the rest of the car if manufacturers guidelines for maintenance and oil is followed. That means that Suzuki will be spitting out CV joints and needing schocks twice before that engine shows signs of degrading running supertech or any house API convientional oil.
Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
Redline is to Suzuki cars as Lipstick is to a pig...
oink,oink,lol.. I bought this car for gas mileage,to get back and fourth to my docs,the 250 v10 was killing me with gas.M1 is a good oil, the fact that they wont list their base stock leads me to believe they have something to hide..Now run along and go play.
Redline is to Suzuki cars as Lipstick is to a pig...
oink,oink,lol.. I bought this car for gas mileage,to get back and fourth to my docs,the 250 v10 was killing me with gas.M1 is a good oil, the fact that they wont list their base stock leads me to believe they have something to hide..Now run along and go play.
Originally Posted By: 7777
Originally Posted By: tomcat27
cool - I've been eyeing the Suzi...
anyway, what are you trying to accomplish? extended drains? the "best" oil at any cost? I dont know if there is a true reason to go redline unless you are racing it.
I believe that M1 EP is mostly a G4 oil, as is Amsoil (except for their XL line)
I'm sure you know that much of the competitiion is mostly G3.
If money is no object, I would go with Amsoil, M1 EP, maybe Redline.
The next tier is Valvoline Syn, Penzz Plat.
Basically the best oil and piece of mind, from what Ive been reading for years, redline has the best quality ingredients.
BTW, i just bought a case online. I have 500 miles on motor now
(a hard 500 miles,lol)and when i receive my oil ,I'm making the change.I always break in my motors hard,Best way.
7777, what grade of Red Line did you end up buying?
Originally Posted By: tomcat27
cool - I've been eyeing the Suzi...
anyway, what are you trying to accomplish? extended drains? the "best" oil at any cost? I dont know if there is a true reason to go redline unless you are racing it.
I believe that M1 EP is mostly a G4 oil, as is Amsoil (except for their XL line)
I'm sure you know that much of the competitiion is mostly G3.
If money is no object, I would go with Amsoil, M1 EP, maybe Redline.
The next tier is Valvoline Syn, Penzz Plat.
Basically the best oil and piece of mind, from what Ive been reading for years, redline has the best quality ingredients.
BTW, i just bought a case online. I have 500 miles on motor now
(a hard 500 miles,lol)and when i receive my oil ,I'm making the change.I always break in my motors hard,Best way.
7777, what grade of Red Line did you end up buying?
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
The FACT is that most engines in most cars will outlast the usefull life of the rest of the car if manufacturers guidelines for maintenance and oil is followed. That means that Suzuki will be spitting out CV joints and needing schocks twice before that engine shows signs of degrading running supertech or any house API convientional oil.
I agree.
The FACT is that most engines in most cars will outlast the usefull life of the rest of the car if manufacturers guidelines for maintenance and oil is followed. That means that Suzuki will be spitting out CV joints and needing schocks twice before that engine shows signs of degrading running supertech or any house API convientional oil.
I agree.
5-30 , i ordered it before you posted,ill try it out and see what happens,not to much of difference with 0-30.I appreciate your reply.
On another note, i love my Suzuki sx4, I had all the muscle cars,(over 25 cars)trucks ext..They sell a turbo kit for it,who knows later on i just might install it lol.
On another note, i love my Suzuki sx4, I had all the muscle cars,(over 25 cars)trucks ext..They sell a turbo kit for it,who knows later on i just might install it lol.
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
The FACT is that most engines in most cars will outlast the usefull life of the rest of the car if manufacturers guidelines for maintenance and oil is followed. That means that Suzuki will be spitting out CV joints and needing schocks twice before that engine shows signs of degrading running supertech or any house API convientional oil.
But why not have an engine that runs like new, passes emissions with ease, and gets like new mpg up until it goes to the junkyard. Just because it still runs doesn't mean it runs well.
And I think it's greatly exaggerated the engine will ALWAYS outlast the body. Engines last a very long time on whatever you put in them but there are plenty cases where the engine goes before the body.
Where I live, I guarantee the engine will go first assuming it doesn't get wrecked.
The FACT is that most engines in most cars will outlast the usefull life of the rest of the car if manufacturers guidelines for maintenance and oil is followed. That means that Suzuki will be spitting out CV joints and needing schocks twice before that engine shows signs of degrading running supertech or any house API convientional oil.
But why not have an engine that runs like new, passes emissions with ease, and gets like new mpg up until it goes to the junkyard. Just because it still runs doesn't mean it runs well.
And I think it's greatly exaggerated the engine will ALWAYS outlast the body. Engines last a very long time on whatever you put in them but there are plenty cases where the engine goes before the body.
Where I live, I guarantee the engine will go first assuming it doesn't get wrecked.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
The FACT is that most engines in most cars will outlast the usefull life of the rest of the car if manufacturers guidelines for maintenance and oil is followed. That means that Suzuki will be spitting out CV joints and needing schocks twice before that engine shows signs of degrading running supertech or any house API convientional oil.
But why not have an engine that runs like new, passes emissions with ease, and gets like new mpg up until it goes to the junkyard. Just because it still runs doesn't mean it runs well.
And I think it's greatly exaggerated the engine will ALWAYS outlast the body. Engines last a very long time on whatever you put in them but there are plenty cases where the engine goes before the body.
Where I live, I guarantee the engine will go first assuming it doesn't get wrecked.
I agree buickGN,cant wait to get my oil..
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
The FACT is that most engines in most cars will outlast the usefull life of the rest of the car if manufacturers guidelines for maintenance and oil is followed. That means that Suzuki will be spitting out CV joints and needing schocks twice before that engine shows signs of degrading running supertech or any house API convientional oil.
But why not have an engine that runs like new, passes emissions with ease, and gets like new mpg up until it goes to the junkyard. Just because it still runs doesn't mean it runs well.
And I think it's greatly exaggerated the engine will ALWAYS outlast the body. Engines last a very long time on whatever you put in them but there are plenty cases where the engine goes before the body.
Where I live, I guarantee the engine will go first assuming it doesn't get wrecked.
I agree buickGN,cant wait to get my oil..
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
If the engine lasts longer, it's worth it whether it's a $10,000 car or a $100,000 car.
But where is the proof that his engine will last longer on Redline? And what does "longer" mean? Is it a difference between 500k and 600k miles? Just asking...
It may be the difference in 500K vs 600K but see my post above, I don't just want it barely running with low compression and a rod knock, I want it running like new still at high mileage.
Where's the proof that an engine lasts longer on oil vs water?
I think it makes sense that an oil with a super high HTHS with a premium add pack with tons of moly and ZDDP might just protect better than a $.99 dino group I.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
If the engine lasts longer, it's worth it whether it's a $10,000 car or a $100,000 car.
But where is the proof that his engine will last longer on Redline? And what does "longer" mean? Is it a difference between 500k and 600k miles? Just asking...
It may be the difference in 500K vs 600K but see my post above, I don't just want it barely running with low compression and a rod knock, I want it running like new still at high mileage.
Where's the proof that an engine lasts longer on oil vs water?
I think it makes sense that an oil with a super high HTHS with a premium add pack with tons of moly and ZDDP might just protect better than a $.99 dino group I.
Originally Posted By: 7777
Oh BTW, whats the best filter to use other than wix?
Let me guess, you want the filter that's going to make your car run better and last longer, right?
The truth is the same as oil, there are many good brands that will serve you well, Wix is one of them. Many like M1, Napa Gold, Pure One, Amsoil, etc. Personally I run the OEM Toyota filter.
Oh BTW, whats the best filter to use other than wix?
Let me guess, you want the filter that's going to make your car run better and last longer, right?
The truth is the same as oil, there are many good brands that will serve you well, Wix is one of them. Many like M1, Napa Gold, Pure One, Amsoil, etc. Personally I run the OEM Toyota filter.
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: 7777
Oh BTW, whats the best filter to use other than wix?
Let me guess, you want the filter that's going to make your car run better and last longer, right?
The truth is the same as oil, there are many good brands that will serve you well, Wix is one of them. Many like M1, Napa Gold, Pure One, Amsoil, etc. Personally I run the OEM Toyota filter.
Napa gold is wix,Ive used all above you listed except pure one.
Just wanna see what reply i get and why..
Originally Posted By: 7777
Oh BTW, whats the best filter to use other than wix?
Let me guess, you want the filter that's going to make your car run better and last longer, right?
The truth is the same as oil, there are many good brands that will serve you well, Wix is one of them. Many like M1, Napa Gold, Pure One, Amsoil, etc. Personally I run the OEM Toyota filter.
Napa gold is wix,Ive used all above you listed except pure one.
Just wanna see what reply i get and why..
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Originally Posted By: JAG
What does such and such oil "is a Group III oil" mean?
When I think about grp III oils,to me it`s just an overpriced conventional oil. If I`m gonna buy a synthetic (and pay synthetic prices) I want a synthetic oil (grp IV,V). If not,I`ll just buy a rightfully priced conventional oil.
What does such and such oil "is a Group III oil" mean?
When I think about grp III oils,to me it`s just an overpriced conventional oil. If I`m gonna buy a synthetic (and pay synthetic prices) I want a synthetic oil (grp IV,V). If not,I`ll just buy a rightfully priced conventional oil.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
The FACT is that most engines in most cars will outlast the usefull life of the rest of the car if manufacturers guidelines for maintenance and oil is followed. That means that Suzuki will be spitting out CV joints and needing schocks twice before that engine shows signs of degrading running supertech or any house API convientional oil.
But why not have an engine that runs like new, passes emissions with ease, and gets like new mpg up until it goes to the junkyard. Just because it still runs doesn't mean it runs well.
I stated it will run without degrading that means no loss in performance on the cheapest oil that meets spec
And I think it's greatly exaggerated the engine will ALWAYS outlast the body. Engines last a very long time on whatever you put in them but there are plenty cases where the engine goes before the body.
Please quantify your cases as a percentile of the driving public
Where I live, I guarantee the engine will go first assuming it doesn't get wrecked.
Again, Please quantify your statement with actual statistical evidence rather. Your garantee means little otherwise.
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
The FACT is that most engines in most cars will outlast the usefull life of the rest of the car if manufacturers guidelines for maintenance and oil is followed. That means that Suzuki will be spitting out CV joints and needing schocks twice before that engine shows signs of degrading running supertech or any house API convientional oil.
But why not have an engine that runs like new, passes emissions with ease, and gets like new mpg up until it goes to the junkyard. Just because it still runs doesn't mean it runs well.
I stated it will run without degrading that means no loss in performance on the cheapest oil that meets spec
And I think it's greatly exaggerated the engine will ALWAYS outlast the body. Engines last a very long time on whatever you put in them but there are plenty cases where the engine goes before the body.
Please quantify your cases as a percentile of the driving public
Where I live, I guarantee the engine will go first assuming it doesn't get wrecked.
Again, Please quantify your statement with actual statistical evidence rather. Your garantee means little otherwise.
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