I need facts only if possible...

[Bryanccfshr]

Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
If the engine lasts longer, it's worth it whether it's a $10,000 car or a $100,000 car.

But where is the proof that his engine will last longer on Redline? And what does "longer" mean? Is it a difference between 500k and 600k miles? Just asking...



It may be the difference in 500K vs 600K but see my post above, I don't just want it barely running with low compression and a rod knock, I want it running like new still at high mileage.

Where's the proof that an engine lasts longer on oil vs water?

I think it makes sense that an oil with a super high HTHS with a premium add pack with tons of moly and ZDDP might just protect better than a $.99 dino group I.


Now you are definately exagerating. Waht Current ILSAC oil is Group 1?

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: BuickGN
I think it makes sense that an oil with a super high HTHS with a premium add pack with tons of moly and ZDDP might just protect better than a $.99 dino group I.

I thought were were comparing M1 to Redline.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
The FACT is that most engines in most cars will outlast the usefull life of the rest of the car if manufacturers guidelines for maintenance and oil is followed. That means that Suzuki will be spitting out CV joints and needing schocks twice before that engine shows signs of degrading running supertech or any house API convientional oil.


What about the Toyota sludgers? Dodge sludgers?

Then of course those with the unnoticed LIM gasket failures on the GM V6's.....

There are plenty of them that die early deaths too

 

[glen242]

Originally Posted By: 7777
Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
Redline is to Suzuki cars as Lipstick is to a pig...



oink,oink,lol.. I bought this car for gas mileage,to get back and fourth to my docs,the 250 v10 was killing me with gas.M1 is a good oil, the fact that they wont list their base stock leads me to believe they have something to hide..Now run along and go play.


I don't have a dog in this fight or care if you pour gold into your crankcase. But to me, your attitude, is it because you are from NY, leaves a lot to be desired.

What kind of doc do you see on a regular basis? Is he a specialist in 'above the neck' problems?

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: glen242
Originally Posted By: 7777
Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
Redline is to Suzuki cars as Lipstick is to a pig...



oink,oink,lol.. I bought this car for gas mileage,to get back and fourth to my docs,the 250 v10 was killing me with gas.M1 is a good oil, the fact that they wont list their base stock leads me to believe they have something to hide..Now run along and go play.


I don't have a dog in this fight or care if you pour gold into your crankcase. But to me, your attitude, is it because you are from NY, leaves a lot to be desired.

What kind of doc do you see on a regular basis? Is he a specialist in 'above the neck' problems?


He has an attitude yet you attack his location, his sanity ("above the neck" comment), and the snide "pour gold into your crankcase" comment after he replies back to someone's smart [censored] comment. It seems to me you may need the attitude check.

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
The FACT is that most engines in most cars will outlast the usefull life of the rest of the car if manufacturers guidelines for maintenance and oil is followed. That means that Suzuki will be spitting out CV joints and needing schocks twice before that engine shows signs of degrading running supertech or any house API convientional oil.


But why not have an engine that runs like new, passes emissions with ease, and gets like new mpg up until it goes to the junkyard. Just because it still runs doesn't mean it runs well.
I stated it will run without degrading that means no loss in performance on the cheapest oil that meets spec
And I think it's greatly exaggerated the engine will ALWAYS outlast the body. Engines last a very long time on whatever you put in them but there are plenty cases where the engine goes before the body.
Please quantify your cases as a percentile of the driving public
Where I live, I guarantee the engine will go first assuming it doesn't get wrecked.

Again, Please quantify your statement with actual statistical evidence rather. Your garantee means little otherwise.


Please qualify your statement that it will "run without degrading". If I believed you, it would seem that engines don't wear out. However they do.

There is paper after paper written about the benefits of esters. There is paper after paper written about HTHS vs wear. I'm not about to waste my time because everyone here has already seen it and they pick and choose what they believe on how it fits their "beliefs".

Honestly, this site is not what it used to be. Everyone has an agenda and it's all about winning an argument at all costs. Now we're arguing that a grp II oil is just as good as a grp V. I feel sorry for you.

To the point, I can afford Redline so I use it. I want the least amount of wear in a $40,000 car so I spend an extra $20 on an oil change. Sounds like an ok investment.

 

[Drew99GT]

Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: 7777
from what i learned in life,when companies hide their ingredients,obviously they have something to hide and that totally turns me off.

On another note,people who use redline here , are you happy with it?


If you think any oil company, including Redline, is going to tell you their formulations, then you are deceived.


Including you, since you seem to believe what EM tells you, despite much evidence to the contrary, including reputable members here who gave us pretty solid evidence that Mobil 1 EP is comprised of a lot of group III. In addition, the Japanese MSDSs point to a fairly high percentage of group III.

"Mobil 1 with SuperSyn uses high-performance fluids, including polyalphaolefins (PAOs)"

Straight from their FAQ. Not long ago, it stated that Mobil 1 is all PAO.

 

[7777]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
I think it makes sense that an oil with a super high HTHS with a premium add pack with tons of moly and ZDDP might just protect better than a $.99 dino group I.

I thought were were comparing M1 to Redline.

Red line has a better base stock,thats a fact!!

Actually,this thread was about proof that m1 is, or is not a group3 base and along the way Ive been criticized,my car called a pig with lipstick,nothing but put downs,not everyone,just a few people.But you know what, I love my little rice burner

 

[7777]

Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
The FACT is that most engines in most cars will outlast the usefull life of the rest of the car if manufacturers guidelines for maintenance and oil is followed. That means that Suzuki will be spitting out CV joints and needing schocks twice before that engine shows signs of degrading running supertech or any house API convientional oil.


But why not have an engine that runs like new, passes emissions with ease, and gets like new mpg up until it goes to the junkyard. Just because it still runs doesn't mean it runs well.
I stated it will run without degrading that means no loss in performance on the cheapest oil that meets spec
And I think it's greatly exaggerated the engine will ALWAYS outlast the body. Engines last a very long time on whatever you put in them but there are plenty cases where the engine goes before the body.
Please quantify your cases as a percentile of the driving public
Where I live, I guarantee the engine will go first assuming it doesn't get wrecked.

Again, Please quantify your statement with actual statistical evidence rather. Your garantee means little otherwise.


Please qualify your statement that it will "run without degrading". If I believed you, it would seem that engines don't wear out. However they do.

There is paper after paper written about the benefits of esters. There is paper after paper written about HTHS vs wear. I'm not about to waste my time because everyone here has already seen it and they pick and choose what they believe on how it fits their "beliefs".

Honestly, this site is not what it used to be. Everyone has an agenda and it's all about winning an argument at all costs. Now we're arguing that a grp II oil is just as good as a grp V. I feel sorry for you.

To the point, I can afford Redline so I use it. I want the least amount of wear in a $40,000 car so I spend an extra $20 on an oil change. Sounds like an ok investment.


+1

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: 7777
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: 7777
Oh BTW, whats the best filter to use other than wix?

Let me guess, you want the filter that's going to make your car run better and last longer, right?

The truth is the same as oil, there are many good brands that will serve you well, Wix is one of them. Many like M1, Napa Gold, Pure One, Amsoil, etc. Personally I run the OEM Toyota filter.


Napa gold is wix,Ive used all above you listed except pure one.

Just wanna see what reply i get and why..

Amsoil and Royal Purple have fully synthetic media. Better flow, better filtration, more holding capacity.

 

[Drew99GT]

Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
The FACT is that most engines in most cars will outlast the usefull life of the rest of the car if manufacturers guidelines for maintenance and oil is followed. That means that Suzuki will be spitting out CV joints and needing schocks twice before that engine shows signs of degrading running supertech or any house API convientional oil.


But why not have an engine that runs like new, passes emissions with ease, and gets like new mpg up until it goes to the junkyard.


My Dad's 98 Blazer with 230,000 miles does all that. Has cleaner emissions then my Corolla. Still gets 21 to 22 mpg highway and around 16 in town. Was down on power until recently when new plugs, wires, cap and rotor were installed. Runs darn near better then it did 100,000 miles ago! It's had nothing but on sale conventional oil.

Now, the rest of the truck is falling apart around the engine and I'm afraid totally worn out major suspension components such as leaf springs, ball joints, bushings, and torsion bars will send it to it's grave in the next few years. It's seen lots of very rough dirt roads which thrashed the frame and suspension.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: 7777
from what i learned in life,when companies hide their ingredients,obviously they have something to hide and that totally turns me off.

On another note,people who use redline here , are you happy with it?


If you think any oil company, including Redline, is going to tell you their formulations, then you are deceived.


Including you, since you seem to believe what EM tells you, despite much evidence to the contrary, including reputable members here who gave us pretty solid evidence that Mobil 1 EP is comprised of a lot of group III. In addition, the Japanese MSDSs point to a fairly high percentage of group III.

"Mobil 1 with SuperSyn uses high-performance fluids, including polyalphaolefins (PAOs)"

Straight from their FAQ. Not long ago, it stated that Mobil 1 is all PAO.




Wow! The EP line of M1 is not listed with the Japanese MSDs. It's the Regular M1 that is the oft discussed MSDA from Japan.
Yes the regular M1 may have 40% grp3 and the rest 4-5. What ever it is M1 oils are a top tier oil along with others.

Also I stand by my assertion that no oil co. will tell you their formulations, and if they say they are whatch out most gullable one they gotch ya.

 

[7777]

Thanks buick..

 

[hate2work]

Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: 7777
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: 7777
Oh BTW, whats the best filter to use other than wix?

Let me guess, you want the filter that's going to make your car run better and last longer, right?

The truth is the same as oil, there are many good brands that will serve you well, Wix is one of them. Many like M1, Napa Gold, Pure One, Amsoil, etc. Personally I run the OEM Toyota filter.


Napa gold is wix,Ive used all above you listed except pure one.

Just wanna see what reply i get and why..

Amsoil and Royal Purple have fully synthetic media. Better flow, better filtration, more holding capacity.


You call them "better", but to what end? Do you see thousands of cars in junkyards because they used Wix or M1 filters? Are we seeing much improved UOAs when one of these synthetic filters is used?

IOW, what does one of these $13 oil filters really do for me that a $6 filter does not do for me in a standard application?

To the OP- Redline is a very good oil, it will work well for you.

 

[7777]

Originally Posted By: glen242
Originally Posted By: 7777
Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
Redline is to Suzuki cars as Lipstick is to a pig...



oink,oink,lol.. I bought this car for gas mileage,to get back and fourth to my docs,the 250 v10 was killing me with gas.M1 is a good oil, the fact that they wont list their base stock leads me to believe they have something to hide..Now run along and go play.


I don't have a dog in this fight or care if you pour gold into your crankcase. But to me, your attitude, is it because you are from NY, leaves a lot to be desired.

What kind of doc do you see on a regular basis? Is he a specialist in 'above the neck' problems?


No, actually hes a hematologist/oncologist and as i recall, your the one who started with the insults (pig with lipstick stuff).

Like i said, run along now and go play.

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: 7777
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: 7777
Oh BTW, whats the best filter to use other than wix?

Let me guess, you want the filter that's going to make your car run better and last longer, right?

The truth is the same as oil, there are many good brands that will serve you well, Wix is one of them. Many like M1, Napa Gold, Pure One, Amsoil, etc. Personally I run the OEM Toyota filter.


Napa gold is wix,Ive used all above you listed except pure one.

Just wanna see what reply i get and why..

Amsoil and Royal Purple have fully synthetic media. Better flow, better filtration, more holding capacity.


You call them "better", but to what end? Do you see thousands of cars in junkyards because they used Wix or M1 filters? Are we seeing much improved UOAs when one of these synthetic filters is used?

IOW, what does one of these $13 oil filters really do for me that a $6 filter does not do for me in a standard application?

To the OP- Redline is a very good oil, it will work well for you.


UOAs for measuring wear are about as useful as guaging wear by oil color.

The answer to your question is they filter and flow better like I've already stated, but you knew that. If you don't understand the benefits of good filtration and flow, I suggest you read a book. You're pushing your agenda so go ahead, use the old junkyard argument. I'm sure you've spent many hours scouring them and surveying what type of filter is most common.

It's the most retarded argument ever concieved since every car ends up in the junkyard. But hey, whatever makes you happy. I'm not sure why we have BITOG since apparently all we're after is mediocrity and anyone who wants the best gets attacked.

Use your Fram or whatever $1 filter you can afford and I'll continue using my Redline and $14 RP filter.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: glen242
Originally Posted By: 7777
Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
Redline is to Suzuki cars as Lipstick is to a pig...



oink,oink,lol.. I bought this car for gas mileage,to get back and fourth to my docs,the 250 v10 was killing me with gas.M1 is a good oil, the fact that they wont list their base stock leads me to believe they have something to hide..Now run along and go play.


I don't have a dog in this fight or care if you pour gold into your crankcase. But to me, your attitude, is it because you are from NY, leaves a lot to be desired.

What kind of doc do you see on a regular basis? Is he a specialist in 'above the neck' problems?


I'm from NY and don't have an attitude. Seems to me there are people from all over this great country that have attitudes, or just don't want to listen to advise and suggestions that they asked for.

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: glen242
Originally Posted By: 7777
Originally Posted By: peterdaniel
Redline is to Suzuki cars as Lipstick is to a pig...



oink,oink,lol.. I bought this car for gas mileage,to get back and fourth to my docs,the 250 v10 was killing me with gas.M1 is a good oil, the fact that they wont list their base stock leads me to believe they have something to hide..Now run along and go play.


I don't have a dog in this fight or care if you pour gold into your crankcase. But to me, your attitude, is it because you are from NY, leaves a lot to be desired.

What kind of doc do you see on a regular basis? Is he a specialist in 'above the neck' problems?


I'm from NY and don't have an attitude. Seems to me there are people from all over this great country that have attitudes, or just don't want to listen to advise and suggestions that they asked for.


I'm not sure who that was aimed at....

The OP asked what type of base oil M1 is made from. Instead of answering the question, you got people saying that he doesn't need a grp V, making fun of his car, and pushing their favorite brand of oil. This site really sucks sometimes.

 

[[RT] ProjUltraZ]

ordering Redline + shipping is like $13/qt? well it is a good oil, i was surprised to see high zinc/phos in a Redline 5w30 UOA recently. around 1400 / 1200 ppm and high moly 660. and high calcium like PP 2500. like the VR1 racing oil but....better

 

[tig1]

Speaking of attitudes. Lets not leave out our friends from Canada with the attitude thing. They could get offended and get a worser attitude.