Conventional is A ok.
Hyundai oil change. should i pay extra for syn?
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Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
So what I hear is you're going to be taking it to the Stealership to make sure your warranty is in tacked.
There are advantages to having the dealership perform your scheduled maintenance. I don't begrudge anyone who chooses to go that route. If I wasn't such a tightwad (and didn't care to do that stuff), I'd have had the dealership do all mine when I was under warranty.
So what I hear is you're going to be taking it to the Stealership to make sure your warranty is in tacked.
There are advantages to having the dealership perform your scheduled maintenance. I don't begrudge anyone who chooses to go that route. If I wasn't such a tightwad (and didn't care to do that stuff), I'd have had the dealership do all mine when I was under warranty.
Here in europe OCI for KIA and Hyundai is 30.000 kilometers using full synthetic oil (HC, group III), we do not even have convention oils in 5w viscosities.
I, myself use 100% PAO oil (gr IV) - MOTUL 8100 EcoNergy 5w30 acea A5 for my KIA. I change it every 7500-10000 kilometers.
I, myself use 100% PAO oil (gr IV) - MOTUL 8100 EcoNergy 5w30 acea A5 for my KIA. I change it every 7500-10000 kilometers.
Originally Posted by wemay
You'll be fine with Conventional oil in either, 2.0 or 2.4 naturally aspirated engine (1.6T is no longer available from MY 2018+), it meets specs. You don't need to change at either 3750 or 7500 miles either, like mentioned above. So long as you don't go past 7500, you're covered unless someone can prove severe service usage. Great vehicle, congrats and enjoy.
Totally agree with this. Today's conventional oils are just that good.
You'll be fine with Conventional oil in either, 2.0 or 2.4 naturally aspirated engine (1.6T is no longer available from MY 2018+), it meets specs. You don't need to change at either 3750 or 7500 miles either, like mentioned above. So long as you don't go past 7500, you're covered unless someone can prove severe service usage. Great vehicle, congrats and enjoy.
Totally agree with this. Today's conventional oils are just that good.
Originally Posted by Polyalphaolefin
Here in europe OCI for KIA and Hyundai is 30.000 kilometers using full synthetic oil (HC, group III), we do not even have convention oils in 5w viscosities.
I, myself use 100% PAO oil (gr IV) - MOTUL 8100 EcoNergy 5w30 acea A5 for my KIA. I change it every 7500-10000 kilometers.
+2 for a quality REAL synthetic as described above.
I have my oil change at the dealer per contract now. I dont know what the dealer put in the car, but it sure isn't as good as the factory oil from MY perspective.
Here in europe OCI for KIA and Hyundai is 30.000 kilometers using full synthetic oil (HC, group III), we do not even have convention oils in 5w viscosities.
I, myself use 100% PAO oil (gr IV) - MOTUL 8100 EcoNergy 5w30 acea A5 for my KIA. I change it every 7500-10000 kilometers.
+2 for a quality REAL synthetic as described above.
I have my oil change at the dealer per contract now. I dont know what the dealer put in the car, but it sure isn't as good as the factory oil from MY perspective.
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted by Polyalphaolefin
Here in europe OCI for KIA and Hyundai is 30.000 kilometers using full synthetic oil (HC, group III), we do not even have convention oils in 5w viscosities.
I, myself use 100% PAO oil (gr IV) - MOTUL 8100 EcoNergy 5w30 acea A5 for my KIA. I change it every 7500-10000 kilometers.
+2 for a quality REAL synthetic as described above.
I have my oil change at the dealer per contract now. I dont know what the dealer put in the car, but it sure isn't as good as the factory oil from MY perspective.
I thought conventional was better for the break in, allowing rings and valves to seat properly during the initial break in period. But I know many mfgs now factory fill with a (lower friction) synthetic, like Hyundai-Kia uses a QS synthetic. I suppose tighter tolerances in modern engines don't need to use a dino??
Originally Posted by Polyalphaolefin
Here in europe OCI for KIA and Hyundai is 30.000 kilometers using full synthetic oil (HC, group III), we do not even have convention oils in 5w viscosities.
I, myself use 100% PAO oil (gr IV) - MOTUL 8100 EcoNergy 5w30 acea A5 for my KIA. I change it every 7500-10000 kilometers.
+2 for a quality REAL synthetic as described above.
I have my oil change at the dealer per contract now. I dont know what the dealer put in the car, but it sure isn't as good as the factory oil from MY perspective.
I thought conventional was better for the break in, allowing rings and valves to seat properly during the initial break in period. But I know many mfgs now factory fill with a (lower friction) synthetic, like Hyundai-Kia uses a QS synthetic. I suppose tighter tolerances in modern engines don't need to use a dino??
I would stick with conventional. It's your daughter's car not yours.
If you are more comfortable with stealershio changes for record purposes and them not denying warranty work, then don't pay extra. Her Tucson will be fine with conventional.
If you are more comfortable with stealershio changes for record purposes and them not denying warranty work, then don't pay extra. Her Tucson will be fine with conventional.
Originally Posted by Polyalphaolefin
Here in europe OCI for KIA and Hyundai is 30.000 kilometers using full synthetic oil (HC, group III), we do not even have convention oils in 5w viscosities.
I, myself use 100% PAO oil (gr IV) - MOTUL 8100 EcoNergy 5w30 acea A5 for my KIA. I change it every 7500-10000 kilometers.
With few exceptiions, most conventionals (5w20 or 30, not 10w30) are really blends with about fifty percent group III. We're now going through a major rebranding. Valvoline Daily Protection is now semi-synthetic on its label, but not the 10w30 variety. Hopefully they'll still honor my stash of $10 conventional oil change coupons. Always waiting them to say "sorry sir, we're now using this new blend, that'll be an extra $20."
Changing group IV at that short of an OCI would bother me.
Here in europe OCI for KIA and Hyundai is 30.000 kilometers using full synthetic oil (HC, group III), we do not even have convention oils in 5w viscosities.
I, myself use 100% PAO oil (gr IV) - MOTUL 8100 EcoNergy 5w30 acea A5 for my KIA. I change it every 7500-10000 kilometers.
With few exceptiions, most conventionals (5w20 or 30, not 10w30) are really blends with about fifty percent group III. We're now going through a major rebranding. Valvoline Daily Protection is now semi-synthetic on its label, but not the 10w30 variety. Hopefully they'll still honor my stash of $10 conventional oil change coupons. Always waiting them to say "sorry sir, we're now using this new blend, that'll be an extra $20."
Changing group IV at that short of an OCI would bother me.
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Synth oil changes at shops are a total ripoff, seeing that when you buy oil at the store a jug of synth is usually like 5 bux more than their dino offering. QS for example. $14 for their dino,$19 for their synth.
My Hyundai dealership only charges $10 extra for synthetic. Whatever oil you use I would have your daughter check the oil. My dealership overfilled my Elantra by 1/2 quart. I change the oil myself now and switch between conventional and synthetic. Does not seem to make much difference on how the car performs.
Exeter Subaru overfilled the Wife's Crosstrek by 3/4 qt.and they Charged her for the extra qt.
Guess who had to drain it out?
Since that episode, I have performed the last two OC.
They also quoted her $900.00 to do two axle brake job.
I just did the rears for $29 bucks. Rotors were excellent - just a tiny ridge that I ground off. Most of the time was spent wire brushing and
cleaning the stainless steel shims and the mounting points. then getting my Wife to help me bleed the system.
still there was yelling from her end
Guess who had to drain it out?
Since that episode, I have performed the last two OC.
They also quoted her $900.00 to do two axle brake job.
I just did the rears for $29 bucks. Rotors were excellent - just a tiny ridge that I ground off. Most of the time was spent wire brushing and
cleaning the stainless steel shims and the mounting points. then getting my Wife to help me bleed the system.
still there was yelling from her end
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Exeter Subaru overfilled the Wife's Crosstrek by 3/4 qt.and they Charged her for the extra qt.
Guess who had to drain it out?
Since that episode, I have performed the last two OC.
They also quoted her $900.00 to do two axle brake job.
I just did the rears for $29 bucks. Rotors were excellent - just a tiny ridge that I ground off. Most of the time was spent wire brushing and
cleaning the stainless steel shims and the mounting points. then getting my Wife to help me bleed the system.
still there was yelling from her end
The dealership markup on some services is insane for sure. But on basic oil change it shouldn't be too bad..my local dealership offers oil change pkgs. You prepay for X amount of changes (they offer 2 tiers) and it actually brings the price down a good deal... still not as cheap as doing your own or going to Wally's, but better than a shop or a VIOC.
No way around it.. that "piece of mind" having the dealership do it is gonna come at a premium.
Exeter Subaru overfilled the Wife's Crosstrek by 3/4 qt.and they Charged her for the extra qt.
Guess who had to drain it out?
Since that episode, I have performed the last two OC.
They also quoted her $900.00 to do two axle brake job.
I just did the rears for $29 bucks. Rotors were excellent - just a tiny ridge that I ground off. Most of the time was spent wire brushing and
cleaning the stainless steel shims and the mounting points. then getting my Wife to help me bleed the system.
still there was yelling from her end
The dealership markup on some services is insane for sure. But on basic oil change it shouldn't be too bad..my local dealership offers oil change pkgs. You prepay for X amount of changes (they offer 2 tiers) and it actually brings the price down a good deal... still not as cheap as doing your own or going to Wally's, but better than a shop or a VIOC.
No way around it.. that "piece of mind" having the dealership do it is gonna come at a premium.
Most Hyundai/Kia dealers have a service special page with a coupon for oil change.
I have been using them for years.
Price ranges from $24.99 to $34.99 for the semi syn oil change and hyundai filter.
In and out in 30 minutes never a problem.
Sometimes the KIA dealer has a cheaper deal than Hyundai but for ten bucks difference I'll go to the closer Hyundai dealer.
$24.99 is cheaper than any instant oil change place in the game.
I have been using them for years.
Price ranges from $24.99 to $34.99 for the semi syn oil change and hyundai filter.
In and out in 30 minutes never a problem.
Sometimes the KIA dealer has a cheaper deal than Hyundai but for ten bucks difference I'll go to the closer Hyundai dealer.
$24.99 is cheaper than any instant oil change place in the game.
Originally Posted by JustinH
Most Hyundai/Kia dealers have a service special page with a coupon for oil change.
I have been using them for years.
Price ranges from $24.99 to $34.99 for the semi syn oil change and hyundai filter.
In and out in 30 minutes never a problem.
Sometimes the KIA dealer has a cheaper deal than Hyundai but for ten bucks difference I'll go to the closer Hyundai dealer.
$24.99 is cheaper than any instant oil change place in the game.
That's about what it ran at my local Kia last time I was in the parts/service dept. about a yr ago. That's pretty competitive and you have the dealership doing it, so there's that... the bonus to using a Valvoline ctr, is they're super quick and you don't have to get out of your ride.
Most Hyundai/Kia dealers have a service special page with a coupon for oil change.
I have been using them for years.
Price ranges from $24.99 to $34.99 for the semi syn oil change and hyundai filter.
In and out in 30 minutes never a problem.
Sometimes the KIA dealer has a cheaper deal than Hyundai but for ten bucks difference I'll go to the closer Hyundai dealer.
$24.99 is cheaper than any instant oil change place in the game.
That's about what it ran at my local Kia last time I was in the parts/service dept. about a yr ago. That's pretty competitive and you have the dealership doing it, so there's that... the bonus to using a Valvoline ctr, is they're super quick and you don't have to get out of your ride.
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Just bought a 2017 Elantra and living in Texas should I go with 5w20 or 5w30 ? Oil price is the same.
5W30 would be fine unless you live in the panhandle where 5W20 may be a better option in winter . There are those in Texas who run 5W20 all year with no worries too , so it's really up to you . *If you are going to run the Elantra over 150K miles then I would use 5W30.
Originally Posted by ThrowinRocks
Just bought a 2017 Elantra and living in Texas should I go with 5w20 or 5w30 ? Oil price is the same.
Originally Posted by ThrowinRocks
Just bought a 2017 Elantra and living in Texas should I go with 5w20 or 5w30 ? Oil price is the same.
Originally Posted by ThrowinRocks
Just bought a 2017 Elantra and living in Texas should I go with 5w20 or 5w30 ? Oil price is the same.
I am running 10w30 Chevron Supreme during summer. Winter 5w30 Pennzoil Platinum or 5w-20 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Engine is a little quieter with the Cheveron Supreme. Have not noticed a mileage penalty. If you are getting one oil I would go with 5w30.
Just bought a 2017 Elantra and living in Texas should I go with 5w20 or 5w30 ? Oil price is the same.
I am running 10w30 Chevron Supreme during summer. Winter 5w30 Pennzoil Platinum or 5w-20 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Engine is a little quieter with the Cheveron Supreme. Have not noticed a mileage penalty. If you are getting one oil I would go with 5w30.
I'd say to absolutely run Synthetic. Those GDI engines beat up the oil with fuel dilution. I typically run PP 5w30 with a OEM filter for 5k in my 2012 Sonata, and it's happy.
You can change it yourself and still have warranty coverage. They can't deny you, but You're required to document the maintenance though. I take a picture of the receipt, the oil and filter, and the odometer Everytime I change my oil. I also keep it written in a book, even though I'm out of warranty now.
You can change it yourself and still have warranty coverage. They can't deny you, but You're required to document the maintenance though. I take a picture of the receipt, the oil and filter, and the odometer Everytime I change my oil. I also keep it written in a book, even though I'm out of warranty now.
wemay
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After seeing countless 2.0, 1.6 and 2.4 H/K UOA over the years, yes, some show dilution, but unless a grossly exaggerated OCI was employed, the wear numbers were all low regardless of oil type.
For those that recommend synthetic for the model years impacted by the engine bearing tsb/recalls... It's made zero difference on the H/K forums where the few folks who've experienced failures have shared their experience can attest. If you were unlucky enough to have a bad one, it will fail on synthetic or conventional 5w20, 5w30, 10w30 or 5w40 etc. Motor oil is not a fix all.
As long as you're within spec, don't overthink your decision.
For those that recommend synthetic for the model years impacted by the engine bearing tsb/recalls... It's made zero difference on the H/K forums where the few folks who've experienced failures have shared their experience can attest. If you were unlucky enough to have a bad one, it will fail on synthetic or conventional 5w20, 5w30, 10w30 or 5w40 etc. Motor oil is not a fix all.
As long as you're within spec, don't overthink your decision.
I dont believe they even sell conventional oil around here. Even synthetic blend is disappearing. At Walmart all I see are bottles which claim to be full synthetic. I was there yesterday and all I saw was full synthetic. At the Valvoline oil change place I didnt see any option for conventional oil.
From the factory all the cars I know of are either synthetic blend or full synthetic. The dealers I know of around here mostly use synthetic blend. Toyota, Honda, GM and Ford all synthetic blend.
So the dino oil is going the way of the dinosaur...
From the factory all the cars I know of are either synthetic blend or full synthetic. The dealers I know of around here mostly use synthetic blend. Toyota, Honda, GM and Ford all synthetic blend.
So the dino oil is going the way of the dinosaur...
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