how to remove a drain plug

[hattaresguy]

Considering this is a differential where the oil really doesn't need to be changed, and you already changed it once....I'd leave it.


Return the oil you bought, pop open a beer and forget about it. When you trade the truck in someone else can deal with it.

If your [censored] bent on getting it out, get an extractor and a torch. Heat the housing up as hot as it will go, its aluminum so be careful. Just remember that the threads might come out with the plug. Again is it really worth the trouble replacing oil that is probably just fine?

 

[supton]

Let's get the facts correct:

-Bought truck at 73k, IIRC it was used for a business but unknown usage. Did not appear to be used to tow.
-Changed all driveline fluids at 82.7k, including front diff. Front diff magnet full of metal. Oils were changed because of... noise.
-at 83.5k the front diff was rebuilt due to noise. TSB for this vintage, so a warranty repair at the dealer. Looking at the TSB, it got new bearings (I think ring&pinion reused).
-Now at 110k, and would like it to go to 200k before I trade.

At this point in time I wouldn't be surprised if leaves and twigs fell out, along with acorn nuts. Whoever did this job was so sloppy that I'll be surprised if I *don't* have to rebuild on my dime in the near future. Thus now I really want to change the oil, as I simply don't trust it.

"Free" warranty work my foot.

I hadn't planned on going this long on the oil before changing, just got busy and then forgot about doing it. I should have changed a week after getting the truck back.

Since it's probably the last truck I'll own I'd like to keep it as long as possible.

 

[GiveMeAVowel]

Originally Posted By: supton
I had a thought last night, I wonder if it's half my fault.


Not YOUR fault at all.

The blame is squarely on the shoulders of the idiot that failed to
tighten the bolt to specifications, especially disgraceful if the work was done by the so called $tealership professionals.

 

[dlundblad]

I am a little confused.

The hex is obviously messed up, but was "ok" before you started working with it. I say "ok" because I do not want to convey that I feel this is your fault. I have been in the same boat as you before with my girlfriends car.

But is the plug just over torqued or cross threaded? Either way, I would worry about the condition of the transfer case threads.

Might be worth considering to take it back to the dealer.

 

[Jim K]

I agree with a hammer and chisel around the outside edge. The plug is already stripped out you can`t re-use it.

 

[stchman]

Reason I do all my own fluid changes.

 

[KrisZ]

Really, by now this drain plug should've been removed. What's the hold up? No amount of internet posts will remove it.

 

[Trav]

I can well understand his reluctance to taking a hammer and chisel to it, for a pro this is just another routine PITA. He probably wants it settled in his mind and the new plug before jumping into it with both feet.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Really, by now this drain plug should've been removed. What's the hold up? No amount of internet posts will remove it.


Well, Saturday was shot doing this, Saturday night got a surprise invite to a Christmas party. Sunday morning was church; Sunday afternoon was a play followed by recitals. No stores to get plugs open when I could make the 45min drive to get someplace that would have a plug--earliest was yesterday morning, which I picked up two at the dealer.

I got home at 6:30 last night, and of course... as you well know, it's dark at 6:30. It's also been raining, so the ground is wet too (no garage here). I need to get dinner for the kids, and homework; first chance to work is past 8pm. No thanks, I'll get some exercise instead.

Today I have meetings all day. Won't get home until nearly 8pm tonight--so no chance tonight.

Earliest I could do this is tomorrow morning, but if the threads are buggered up then I'm really out of luck, as I have a meeting in the afternoon, and no way to get to work if I brick the truck. Thurs/Fri are better days to be stranded at home.

Edit: I live an hour from work.

 

[Kestas]

Yup, life gets in the way. Fortunately, it's not a job that HAS to be done pronto. Keep us tuned.

 

[KrisZ]

Seeing how this task looks to be something new to you, I would definitely do it during daytime and preferably with several hours of daylight available just so you have enough time to regroup in case something goes wrong. You received some excellent advice in this thread, use it and report back. I'm sure we can handle the suspense

 

[supton]

lol, thanks. I do have vacation time to burn, so I am halfway tempted to do it tomorrow morning, as the weather has been surprisingly nice of late. At least try the "whack it with a hammer", then see if budges. Or not.

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: supton
At least try the "whack it with a hammer", then see if budges. Or not.


Judging from the picture you posted, the plug is recessed into the housing and therefore may be hard to whack, plus an unfortunately aimed whack can crack the case. What I've done in the past is use a "sacrificial" allen bit. I would use a bigger sized one. If the plug is metric, using an SAE one and vice versa and hammer it in. This usually works well for these types of jobs. This way you are hammering on the plug, via the bit, so there is less chance of striking the case and also you are driving the bit inside the socket so that you can use the breaker bar on it.

And if this plug is really stubborn, with the bit hammered in, but still getting loose when torque is applied, you can tack weld the bit to the plug.
Either way the bit will be ruined by this method.

 

[supton]

The saga continues. Poorly.

Overslept, decided I felt bad enough to use some sick time (which won't carry over into the new year anyhow).

I went and got a 1/2" drive 10mm socket, and drifted the 10mm hex out of the 3/8" socket I had--that way, less loss. Then I went to my compressor; I've long thought the quick-disconnect on it might be a restriction, so off it came and I put the 3/8" line directly to that. While checking pressure, I noticed that the tank itself drops to 80psi when I run the gun, so I'm not getting 90psi at the impact--but it sure sounds better.

So, with new found power, I promptly removed any threads on the 10mm hex. No surprise there.

Now I took out a cold chisel, and went for a corner.

No go.

I attempted a more head-on approach.

No go.

Am starting to think it's cross-threaded, and that it's a bad idea to bother removing.

For reference, this is the replacement plug:

Nothing but thread, with no real shoulder.

*

Now I have to decide if I want to take off tomorrow and have the garage down the street do it, or just live with it.

 

[dlundblad]

At this point, could you drill a hole where the hex goes and get a nice sized easy out?

If that doesn't work, let the oil drain out and just JB weld the hole shut.

Do this with the oil hot.

 

[supton]

Probably. But by the time I get back from a store with an ez-out it'll be dark, and the job would wait until tomorrow. At that point I might as well use the garage.

Plus there is a magnet on the other side of the "head", and drilling into that it might shatter and make little magnetic shards. That's the last thing I want in my diff.

 

[supton]

I was really hoping to "drain" this, but I think I might play with an extractor next. I don't know if I can get a tube down in there easily, but... I might as well try. Got nothing to lose now.

 

[dlundblad]

Never thought about the magnet. In the picture, the plug looked hollow.

The tube is worth trying just dont let it get stuck. Did that once with what was going to be a simple ATF drain and fill on my Jeep.

 

[meborder]

do you know anyone with a portable 110v mig welder?

time to buy them a case of beer and weld a nut to the old drain plug.

 

[supton]

So, I think I know how I can jerry-rig an extractor, using a fluid extractor--I can put a hose clamp over some tubing and it'll probably work. Otherwise, I'll use my Mityvac.

So, I shoved in a tube, just to see how far it'd go in.

Shouldn't this 30kmile fluid be... clear?