How much metal should I find in an oil filter?

20w-50 until the knocking noise overcomes your earmuffs. 😄
That's an excellent opportunity to pull the head & buy a re-manufactured one. That might be cheaper than a new cam?
Not sure Just started looking. OEM cam is over $500 but ebay can be as low as like $60. I’m sure the quality is just fine.

Actually doesn’t make noise. If I hadn’t found that metal in the filter I would not have guessed.
 
You might want to replace the Tappet Valves or Hydraulic lifters, Whichever they use, if they look like they need replacing. That might come with a rebuilt head though?
 
You might want to replace the Tappet Valves or Hydraulic lifters, Whichever they use, if they look like they need replacing. That might come with a rebuilt head though?
I would assume all that needs replacing. ebay has a reman head for $650? still need head bolts, gaskets, chain, etc. JDM motor might be better… $1200 for that, maybe $1k for a shop to swap in?

Edit: doesn't look too bad to swap cams, tensioner looks like a pain, as does dealing with the timing sensor targets on the end of the camshaft.



Don't have a good history of what oil was used over the years, probably synthetic, around 5k.
1706486391937.jpg


1706486419941.jpg


Intake is showing some wear IMO, not bad, but not new either.
1706486581519.jpg
 
Last edited:
Goodbye Mrs. Lobe, I never knew you at all...

Can you find OE cams (and followers if they are damaged) online for less than the $500 you mentioned?
 
Personally, on an older vehicle like this, I'd swap in a $60 ebay cam and call it a day. You can measure the chain for stretch, and inspect the cam gears and chain guides, then decide if they should be replaced, assuming you can wait for parts.
 
Goodbye Mrs. Lobe, I never knew you at all...
:ROFLMAO:
Can you find OE cams (and followers if they are damaged) online for less than the $500 you mentioned?
Probably, although I might gamble with $60 ebay ones, even. Once I've done it once, I'll be able to do it oh so much easier next time...

Undecided about how long I want to take on this job. I can probably carpool with my son going forward, so that just leaves 2 cars for 3 drivers... math does not compute here. Might just have to be that way, let the daughter take the car for the next week or two, while I order parts and get prepared.

On the plus side, the state of NH no longer cares about emissions, so if I botch and the check engine light is on, no harm. Not saying I want that, but I do have some latitude on this. Too bad inspection is due in a month!
 
It probably takes 4 hours to clean all the silly cone off the timing cover. :love:
If the cover has not been removed before...it is actually pretty quick. Clean-up is only difficult once someone has been in there before. Razor blade off the large pieces; use multiple fresh razors, Then use a worn steel toothbrush to remove anything left. Finish off by giving the timing cover a bath with degreaser and soapy water to remove any remaining remnants; parts washer is ideal but not required. Engine side tends to have a bit less RTV, that side goes a bit faster. Run every bolt thru a wire wheel to remove RTV from the threads.
 
Those don't look like hydraulic lifters since you need to manual set the clearances. I kind of agree with the other poster in that another new ebay camshaft may fit the bill to let this car run another day. That would be a good compromise between going all out head repair vs not doing anything to it. Replacing that camshaft would take care of the minimum. Just make sure whoever does it set's the valve clearances to spec.
 
I'll see if I can get a couple more photos, then put back together--I may have tackled this in the wife's garage bay instead of mine, while she was gone... time to move quickly before she comes home!

180k, rust isn't bad, but... maybe button up and only use locally? even still, that's like 100 miles per week if my daughter just takes it to school and home. Maybe it'd last another year with zero intervention? seems wrong, but...
When I was a kid my dad drove a Chevy Impala wagon with a flat exhaust lobe for several years after it started backfiring through the carb. It wasn't burning oil or anything just had a tick and a dead hole. It became my field car when he replaced it. Couldn't kill it. I'd keep driving your with thicker oil.
 
s it just those 2 that are trashed?
I think I saw wear on at least one of the others, didn't look too closely. Would assume all 4 followers should just be replaced. It'll be what, 4 more minutes of work to do all?

I'd be tempted to just run it, but if it's shedding metal, even if the filter catches it all, it's gotta be wearing on the oil pump. So for now, it's on limited duty, until I get parts and ambition to tackle this.
 
I have Toyotas and they all take the pleated cartridge filters most seem to hate. I like them because it's less mess to change and I can easily inspect the filter media.

I have a 2015 Lexus RX 350 with 225k miles on it. Every time I change the oil (5k miles), I go through the pleats (at least 75-90% of them) and look. I usually find a SPECK of dark material that smudges when I wipe it with my finger. That's it.

Has there been glitter? Maybe. But I don't see it in any of my vehicles' oil filter pleats.
 
This is a case of you do the work yourself or you do nothing.

What about a lower cost cam from RA? They seem to a wide selection of almost any part.

I could see one from eBay made from crappy steel.
 
Did you just start cutting open the filters or have you been doing this forever? Just makes me wonder being 21yrs/old ~180K miles and rust, how far to dig into it aside from an aftermarket cam or a good used head maybe?
 
Did you just start cutting open the filters or have you been doing this forever?
Sporadically. I think the last change or two I didn't. Don't remember. I don't slice all, but try to slice most.

Vehicle is a hand me down to my son. The first 160k wasn't in my hands, the MIL took it mostly to the dealer. But I want to say, I did cut open the first one or two? with nothing found. So this problem started in the last 10k I want to say--but then again, I didn't wave a magnet over the first filter, and if the lighting wasn't good when I cut open the first one... who knows, maybe it's been shedding for a long time?

What about a lower cost cam from RA? They seem to a wide selection of almost any part.

I could see one from eBay made from crappy steel.
RA was out last time I looked. Yeah, ebay will likely be junk. Not sure I care too much. If I could find a used OEM I'd be fine with that, and would prefer that most of all. Should see if I can dig around in junkyards, before hitting up anything I have to order.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JTK
None yet. Going to schedule its annual safety inspection today, make sure it passes. I don’t see why it wouldn’t, but one never knows. Tempted to get a quote from them on the job, it would get done faster there.

I looked for a used cam on ebay but they looked bad. Haven’t called the salvage yard but I’d think they would want to sell the engine whole?

Kinda waiting for spring.
 
Back
Top