how do you prep for an oil change?

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A long time ago, I was involved with the break-in of a rebuilt motor. Part of the procedure was to start the engine and hold the idle at about 2,000 RPM for 15 minutes, then drop the oil. I noticed that the oil was super hot and really flowed as it drained (carrying out any contaminates with it).

So I added a high idle to my oil change regimen. After the engine is warm, I buzz up the idle to about 2,000 RPM for 3 to 5 minutes, let the idle settle back for 30 seconds then drop the oil. (The 30 second idle comes from a Troy built manual where they advised not to shut down a hot motor to give any hot spots a chance to cool, makes sense.)

With the hot oil comes the opportunity to burn fingers, so along with the latex gloves, here's another possibly interesting idea. I cut a short piece of heater hose, 2 or 3 inches long, that fits snugly over the drain plug hex. After loosening the drain plug with a wrench, push the heater hose on the drain plug and use it as a handle to remove the drain plug.
 
I drive the car at least 10 miles to really heat it up then place it on the ramps and pull out my drain pan. I move the Fumoto valve lever and let it drain while going in for a cold one. As I let it sit all night to drain I have several cold ones and tinker the rest of the eve. usaually waxing the finish or admiring my work! I change the filter the next day.
 
Well since I don't have a garage at my house
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I work on everything at mom's house which is about a 5-8 minute drive depending on a red or green traffic light. That usually puts the car/truck at about 170°-180°. That gets the oil hot enough to really get your attention when it gets on you and it flows really well so I've stuck stuck with that method.
 
usually what i do is this. i drive the car around for about 20 minutes and then let it sit till the exaust is not super hot...then i turn on the car and let it run for about a minute. at least when i stick my hand up in the engine for the filter i wont get super burned.

i also just turn on the car and let it run. then i turn it off and drain the oil and leave it there for about 30 mintues..then i get the oil filter cause its cold and let that drain and put everything back. realyl it does get alot of stuff out of ur oil.

soem people stick some air in the head to get more oil out..u can do this if u want also.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Rick in PA:
Part of the procedure was to start the engine and hold the idle at about 2,000 RPM for 15 minutes,

That was for cam break-in. Doesn't affect the quality of an oil change. As long as you change it warm that is all that matters. I just change mine when I get home, otherwise go for a quick drive beforehand until OT is up and drain ASAP.
 
I always make sure the car has been driven quite a while before changing the oil, so the oil is fully hot and there is no moisture in it to ruin the oil sample (if I'm doing analysis that is)

With my Firebird I park the passenger side wheels up on the curb so that I can fit under it, and then let the oil drain for about 15min, then change the filter. Because they give out tickets in my townhouse complex if you park in front of the house, I can't let the oil drain as long as I'd like.

With the other cars I change oil in, I can fit under them in my driveway without jacking them up at all (except my mom's Probe GT, which I just need to drive up on a few pieces of wood to get it a bit higher) If I'm doing the oil change on my wife's car, I'll let the oil drain for about 2 hours before changing the filter. With my mom's or my sister's, I only let the oil drain for about 20-30min since I do the oil changes at my house and I'm sure they don't want to be hanging around all day waiting for me.
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I used to use a brand new funnel with each oil change, but now I just clean them out. I am still a little crazy, in that I have a different funnel for each different brand of oil I put in the cars.
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I also always use new shop rags with each oil change too, especially for cleaning around the drain plug before I take a sample.
 
I change my 18 wheeler when I come in from a run. I like it to be as hot as possible. I take an old screwdriver and punch a drain hole in the filters to let them drain. That allows them to cool down a little for removal. On my autos and Hemi, I drive them at least 1/2 hour to get them hot. Michael
 
I have free oil changes at the dealer I bought my truck at. It takes half a tank of gas, and I can just barely make it there before they close. It's 60 miles each way. I'm sure the oil is good and hot.

After reading this thread it suddenly sounds like a smart thing to do.
 
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