Honda Civic Hatch 1.5T - 1year update

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Danh, yes, I still own this car and enjoy it in a daily basis lol. My last UOA still showed 3.7% dilution, but obviously not as much as the one before. I’ll he only change i’ve done really was going for premium grade gasoline. As far as the driving habits - i’m not babying the car by any means but not bashing on it either. We shall see how it goes moving forward but as of right now FD seems to be managable. Thank you for the info on the max allowed overfill. The highest it went up on mine (with factory fill) was up to the top of the yellow thing qith around 4500mi on the clock.
 
Katzkin certified shop did it for me. Dealeeship i got to he car from took the car to their shop prior to delivery and they had them installed. Took about two days and all in all cost me 1200$ (seats, armrest and all door inserts)
 
LX trim didn’t have seat heaters but i know that heaters will work after their install (if the car is equipped with it). As far as the cost goes i paid 1200$ for it, material plus labor. Not cheap, because but it really is a nice touch to the car interior, plus leather feels very good to the touch. They warranty it for 3yrs as well. The only downside was the smwll in the car after install - it was horrendous and I couldn’t get rid of it dor a good 5000miles (granted my windows and always up)
 
Originally Posted By: Danh
Parshisa, you are still the only owner of a Honda 1.5T UOA I’ve seen that didn’t show high levels of fuel dilution.

As you may be aware, there’s quite a bit of complaining from 1.5T owners in cold weather climates here and in China about rising sump levels, triggered CELs, stalls, and at least one engine replacement from this phenomenon. Owners in China have made life miserable for Honda, blockading dealers and the like and forcing Honda to react. Honda in China issued its response today, which said (as far as I can figure given the translation):

1) Fuel is introduced into the engine oil by slipping past the piston rings
2) In normal operation, sump temperatures volatize this fuel and it’s then burned in combustion (via PCV, one assumes)
3) If oil level gets more than 21mm above the full mark on the dipstick a CEL may be triggered
4) Honda has found no engine damage occurs from this phenomenon. In China at least.
5) An ECU reprogram will be performed, but the effect of this is seemingly (tranlsation?) limited to making the engine warm up faster so volatilization can occur.

All well and good, but:

1) It doesn’t deal with the root cause of fuel dilution, so fuel will continue to enter the sump in some abundance
2) It ignores the permanent damage fuel can do to engine oil even if it volatiles
3) It ignores the rather large % of gasoline that will not volatilze at typical sump temps
4) Honda is essentially acknowledging significant fuel dilution is a normal characteristic of this engine

In other words, a typical Honda response to a problem. Until a class-action lawsuit at least.

You don’t seem to have the problem, whether from being lucky with manufacturing tolerances, break-in, driving style, country of manufacture, fuel grade choice, etc. But at least you know as long as your sump level isn’t more than 21mm above full, you’re golden.





Honda can solve some of these problems with a TWO injector per cylinder engine. Direct injection and one also in the standard location in the port behind the valve. I live in Minnesota and use a car starter mainly to get the oil up to a better temp before scooting off to work. This is where the conventional injector should be used on warm ups to reduce gas in the oil and then go to the DI injector when up to temp.

Maybe a slight oil pan insulation cover during winter would help keep oil temps up to flash off "some" fuel. Rotary screw air compressors use 190 F temps to flash off water in their oil as standard operating procedure/design.

Every manufacture should SOLVE this problem ASAP and not wait 20 years to put the two injectors design scheme into use. DO IT NOW.

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Originally Posted By: parshisa
Like i mentioned before, car looks are very subjective. Wheels look OK to me but I'm not crazy over them either.

I paid 20.7 OTD, roughly 2k below MSRP, that was as good of a deal as I was able to find.


Hi there,

Does the above number include sales tax? If so what is the tax rate there? Also does the above number include both the cost for the leather interior and the labor? Thank you in advance. Thank you.

Sincerely yours,

SatinSilver
 
Touring Coupe loaded...adding a oem rear spoiler, mud flaps and floor mats I offered $27k after tax out the door...

...has not required any warranty work..I do have an open parking brake recall.

here in the cold when the oil level goes 1/2" over full I siphon off a quart the add fresh to just under the full mark, done this three times now on current running OCI...oil visual and tactile is robust...Will UOA this fill after 12k.

I travel 65mi to work now it's through mostly flat swamp with one stop sign at 58mph when the wind is low it always reads 51-53 mpg ACC-on LaneKeep-off.
 
Originally Posted By: dblshock
Touring Coupe loaded...adding a oem rear spoiler, mud flaps and floor mats I offered $27k after tax out the door...

...has not required any warranty work..I do have an open parking brake recall.

here in the cold when the oil level goes 1/2" over full I siphon off a quart the add fresh to just under the full mark, done this three times now on current running OCI...oil visual and tactile is robust...Will UOA this fill after 12k.

I travel 65mi to work now it's through mostly flat swamp with one stop sign at 58mph when the wind is low it always reads 51-53 mpg ACC-on LaneKeep-off.





How do you go about getting an oem spoiler added? That's all my Accord is missing,I would love one. Can a 2012 have one installed or is that only a new car purchase thing? I've also wondered,how are oem spoilers attached?
 
Sales tax (6.25%) and other fees are included. Although 20.7 didn't include the leather option and it cost me 1,200$ leather and labor.
 
I drove mazda but wasn’t quite impressed with the dynamics. Haven’t tried subi though, plus it was a bit off my budget
 
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Amsoil SS is a fine motor oil no doubt but not ideally formulated for this platform with LSPI a possibility.
 
It has been re-formulated last year to meet/exceed D1G2 standards. Low in Ca and high in Mg now. I had the VOA done and posted here the other day. So it should work just fine
 
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