Honda 1.5L gdi turbo

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Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Originally Posted By: car51
Originally Posted By: wemay
This could get interesting


Yep, i see GHT is back
frown.gif



Unfortunate for us. I see the similarities.
frown.gif



Yeah, pretty sad he was able to come back
 
Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
Use your head, sticky to stick vital engine parts while engine is shutoff (synthetics or the good ones are notorious for this) but slippery enough in operating conditions to keep engine parts apart and eliminate wear. c'mon self-explanatory, what is this Tribology 101. Nextttt, whose on deck...let me at em, i'll splat em (said metaphorically from scrapy in scooby doo)

P.S IT is also the basis for my like of this Idemitsu, low density formula oil, the startups are not as boisterous and it gets to idle super fast, is so smooth that you just know it is a slip in slide inside.

By golly that exceeded my already lofty expectations.

And this is why I played Street Fighter: Third Strike, K.O!


Dude, I mean like lay off the weed before u post. I know it is hard, since that sticky, slick stuff is da BOMB! Fo’ shizzle my nizzle, Bro!
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: PimTac
It’s no wonder some of the better posters have left. Maybe you can explain how better base stocks make the oil stick, yet be slippery?

Looking forward to the answer on that one. Ought to be good.


Well, in fairness to Bro, an ester based oil would have a superior ability to stick to metal.
Two problems being that I doubt that Bro knows this and I also doubt that one can find such an oil.
Many of those here are also aware that you'd actually get faster oil warming with a 5w30 than you would with a 0W-20, but Bro doesn't know that either.
Does anyone else think that I could actually be wrong and that Bro knows a lot more than he's letting on and that he's actually posting this stuff tongue firmly in cheek and laughing at the serious responses he elicits from others?
 
I have seen this coming as I have ducked in and out of BITOG over many years. This site used to be both fun and informative...however, it is suffering more and more from the malaise that plagues the rest of the internet. I cannot complain too loudly...the Elves warned me it was like this.
33.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: pscholte
I have seen this coming as I have ducked in and out of BITOG over many years. This site used to be both fun and informative...however, it is suffering more and more from the malaise that plagues the rest of the internet. I cannot complain too loudly...the Elves warned me it was like this.
33.gif



You luckily missed much of the madness that has been GHT and what amounts to about 15 different aliases/reincarnations that have all been banned.
 
Tried to draw a sample through the dipstick on my Honda 1.5T today and it seems the tube will not fit down far enough to reach the oil...
frown.gif


I was hoping to leave in the FF oil a little longer because of supposed benefits of high moly early on in the engine life.

Could i go ahead and change it and add a moly additive to the next fill? Already bought some M1 AP on sale.
 
Originally Posted By: PimTac
According to this recent analysis, M1 AP has moly in it. No need to add any more.

http://www.pqiadata.org/Mobil1_Annual_Protection_5W30.html


Hmm, ok. I guess i was thinking something higher was in the FF oil.

Saw a VOA of Redline 0w-20 yesterday that had a whopping 577ppm. So something with "high" moly (whatever that means). Or Idemitsu Zepro with Moly, etc.

I would assume every oil has at least some amount of moly in it.
 
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Pretty much all the oils have moly in them. Many use what is known as tri-nuclear moly in which lesser amounts are needed to achieve the same effect as the older form of moly.

It comes down to how much is enough. 100ppm? 200? 500? At some point the optimal effect is achieved.
 
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Pretty much all the oils have moly in them. Many use what is known as tri-nuclear moly in which lesser amounts are needed to achieve the same effect as the older form of moly.


Thank you for this. I have said many times on this site that analyzing an oil based on ppm numbers on a VOA is useless. Not all additives are created the same! I just laugh when I read people saying that one oil is better than another because is has a higher number of a particular element. It’s like saying a car is faster because it has 4 exhaust tips.
 
Well, the chances that the car with 4 exaust tips faster than the car with one tip only are quite high lol
 
I'll just stick to M1 0w-20 AP for the first change then. Hopefully i'll get to it this week before 6k miles.

Oil level on the dipstick seems to be high by about half the distance between full and low.
 
Originally Posted By: parshisa
Well, the chances that the car with 4 exaust tips faster than the car with one tip only are quite high lol


Touché haha.
 
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46

Thank you for this. I have said many times on this site that analyzing an oil based on ppm numbers on a VOA is useless. Not all additives are created the same! I just laugh when I read people saying that one oil is better than another because is has a higher number of a particular element. It’s like saying a car is faster because it has 4 exhaust tips.


Then I guess you would feel comfortable using some API SA oil in your cars? And possibly entertaining us with the UOAs?
 
Originally Posted By: nap
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46

Thank you for this. I have said many times on this site that analyzing an oil based on ppm numbers on a VOA is useless. Not all additives are created the same! I just laugh when I read people saying that one oil is better than another because is has a higher number of a particular element. It’s like saying a car is faster because it has 4 exhaust tips.


Then I guess you would feel comfortable using some API SA oil in your cars? And possibly entertaining us with the UOAs?



Not sure what the correlation is here?

A VOA gives you baseline information about a oil’s additive pack and specs of the base oil. It doesn’t tell you anything about what the base is composed of.

The idea that more of something is better is a dead end road. The additives are blended to produce a optimal product at a optimal price point. That’s all.

This is why when the weekly “which oil is best” thread comes up my answer is any major brand that meets the specs for your vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: nap
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46

Thank you for this. I have said many times on this site that analyzing an oil based on ppm numbers on a VOA is useless. Not all additives are created the same! I just laugh when I read people saying that one oil is better than another because is has a higher number of a particular element. It’s like saying a car is faster because it has 4 exhaust tips.


Then I guess you would feel comfortable using some API SA oil in your cars? And possibly entertaining us with the UOAs?


Facepalm.

My entire point is that it’s specifications and approvals that matter. Not a “stout looking add-pack” or whatever the armchair scientists say these days.
 
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