High zinc oils available in 2023

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Looking for a high zinc (1200 ppm minimum) oil that I can still get, ordering online is fine and price isn't super important since it's not a daily expense. I know there's additives but I always worry, possibly unfounded, about interactions between them and the oil itself. The only one I've found local is Lucas and that's got way too much, and Lucas being Lucas I wouldn't want to trust it anyways.
 
Summit Racing has a lot of high ZDDP (Zinc) oils to choose from. There are also classic oils out there. Interestingy, Walmart sells Catrol GTX in a classic high zinc formula just for classics...it's only available in a 20w/50 though.
 
Summit Racing has a lot of high ZDDP (Zinc) oils to choose from. There are also classic oils out there. Interestingy, Walmart sells Catrol GTX in a classic high zinc formula just for classics...it's only available in a 20w/50 though.
I'd seen that one online, 10w30 is what I'm after and it seems like they only make 20w50 at all. Summit is my goto, especially when I used to live in SC and standard shipping often got things to me in less than 24 hours.
 
Looking for a high zinc (1200 ppm minimum) oil that I can still get, ordering online is fine and price isn't super important since it's not a daily expense. I know there's additives but I always worry, possibly unfounded, about interactions between them and the oil itself. The only one I've found local is Lucas and that's got way too much, and Lucas being Lucas I wouldn't want to trust it anyways.
What's the upper limit of zinc do you want?

There's racing oil, that as less detergents but more ZDDP, but that's probably the Lucas you deem is too high, according to their own chart

 
What's the upper limit of zinc do you want?

There's racing oil, that as less detergents but more ZDDP, but that's probably the Lucas you deem is too high, according to their own chart


That I'm not super sure. It's a daily that has time to warm up on my commute and I'm planning 3k intervals most likely, since historically I don't tend to put a lot of miles on a car (7k total last year) and this is a flat tappet sbc. Will also see mild off road use but the suspension isn't up for the hard stuff. Installer says not to use synthetic, but I'm filing that away with don't go in the pool after eating.
 
This SBC, is it a stock bottom end or has it been rebuilt? The bearing clearance determines the viscosity, hence why I ask if it's still stock. What's your climate like? Will you need to cold start in sub-zero temperatures? Is the cam stock or aftermarket/performance?

It sounds like your installer should stick to installing things and leave the oil choice to people who know what they're talking about. "Don't use synthetic." When a mechanic or builder says something asinine like that, I question their credibility with everything else.

If it was me, I would use High Performance Lubricants HDMO (standard series, not the premium) as it has more ZDDP, a load of moly, and will easily handle once a year oil changes at 7k miles. Amsoil Z-Rod would be a great choice as well, as would Red Line HP series and Driven LS/DT series. The viscosity/grade depends on the questions above.
 
Sounds like you want high phosphorous (that's the AW component of ZDDP, not the zinc). M1 TDT 5W-40 has 1100ppm phos/1300ppm zinc.

I run Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5W-40 in our 351W, here's a VOA on it:
OAI VOA Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5w40 | Bob Is The Oil Guy

It's quite possible I misunderstood what parts do what. From what I understood zinc was what prevented the wear, but this is my first time consulting the experts.

This SBC, is it a stock bottom end or has it been rebuilt? The bearing clearance determines the viscosity, hence why I ask if it's still stock. What's your climate like? Will you need to cold start in sub-zero temperatures? Is the cam stock or aftermarket/performance?

It sounds like your installer should stick to installing things and leave the oil choice to people who know what they're talking about. "Don't use synthetic." When a mechanic or builder says something asinine like that, I question their credibility with everything else.

If it was me, I would use High Performance Lubricants HDMO (standard series, not the premium) as it has more ZDDP, a load of moly, and will easily handle once a year oil changes at 7k miles. Amsoil Z-Rod would be a great choice as well, as would Red Line HP series and Driven LS/DT series. The viscosity/grade depends on the questions above.

You have no idea. I got it back with the TV cable loose, two quarts low in the trans, steering line loose to the box, they replaced the entire AC system and had to open it again once already because the blend doors weren't hooked up right. It looses refrigerant in a day and they're going to have to pull the dash again to find where because they already tightened the loose fitting at the accumulator where it was spraying out. It also stalls if you floor it and has no vacuum advance because he's waiting on a jet kit and adjustable vacuum regulator. It's been a mess to say the least.

The engine is a fresh 383, eagle bottom, vortec heads, mild cam. I do not know why they went with a flat tappet cam, these blocks are already drilled and tapped for rollers and I foolishly assumed they would go that route. The engine was built by another local shop who picked what parts to order and assembled it not realizing the crank needs to get balanced. You should have felt how much it shook when I first went to pick it up and told them they needed to figure out what was going on. I really, really miss having a house and land where I could do major jobs myself because farming it out is not going well.
 
A few previous threads which may be of assistance in this often asked question:

 
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Canadians reading this can use Pet-Can Duron in 10w30 for SBCs and 15W40 for BBCs.
HD engine oils tend to give the valve train a little traction to spin the lifters.
 
A few previous threads which may be of assistance in this often asked question:


I've actually read most if not all of those, the first thing I do is google my question and add this forum to the end lol. That's why I have so few messages here, usually the answer is already there. A lot of them were old and a lot of the rest turned into arguing over whether or not it was needed for OP, which is why I didn't list my application until after I'd gotten some answers.
 
It's quite possible I misunderstood what parts do what. From what I understood zinc was what prevented the wear, but this is my first time consulting the experts.



You have no idea. I got it back with the TV cable loose, two quarts low in the trans, steering line loose to the box, they replaced the entire AC system and had to open it again once already because the blend doors weren't hooked up right. It looses refrigerant in a day and they're going to have to pull the dash again to find where because they already tightened the loose fitting at the accumulator where it was spraying out. It also stalls if you floor it and has no vacuum advance because he's waiting on a jet kit and adjustable vacuum regulator. It's been a mess to say the least.

The engine is a fresh 383, eagle bottom, vortec heads, mild cam. I do not know why they went with a flat tappet cam, these blocks are already drilled and tapped for rollers and I foolishly assumed they would go that route. The engine was built by another local shop who picked what parts to order and assembled it not realizing the crank needs to get balanced. You should have felt how much it shook when I first went to pick it up and told them they needed to figure out what was going on. I really, really miss having a house and land where I could do major jobs myself because farming it out is not going well.

That's sad. I can't let something go like that. I'm too prideful. I balance every crankshaft regardless. Even pre-balanced ones can have a rather crappy balance.

If you don't know the bearing clearance, and assuming you may have to start it in cold weather, I'd use HPL HDMO 5W-40 or Driven DT40 5W-40. If oil pressure is low (<15 psi at hot idle), then go to a 50 grade.
 
I'm in WA so there's some really cold days in the winter. I'm waiting on a new sending unit and then I'll have real oil pressure readings again, instead of the 30 year old GM gauge that says just under 30 at idle and just over 30 at WoT.
 
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