Jack, great pics of the 1942 engine!
thanks
thanks
Yes, he said the real issue was OCI never over 5000 but recommended 3000-4000 tops. He also said that in the analysis he would only use Mobil1Vtwin or Syn3 in the engine & primary and Redline Shockproof Heavy or Mobil1 75w90 synthetic gear lube in the trans. I chose the SYn3 & Redline combination. He said to make sure that any oil used in the primary has zero moly which will cause clutch issues and that Mobil1Vtwin & Syn3 had none and both were excellent for engine and primary. BTW, the Redline is excellent and the trans shifts very quietly & smoothly. I am very pleased with this combination.quote:
Originally posted by tmf2:
Did your friend admit HD Syn3 is not really a syn
oil but a hydocracked blend ?
I have read these as well and that seems to be one guys opinion and all my "techie" friends pretty much agree that more than just rings get broken in on a new motor and running a green motor hard is not good all those other things like bearings, valvetrain etc. Plus, I don't have the courage to go take my brand new $16,000 motorcycle out and run the **** out of it when all the dealer wrenches tell me not to just because some greasy looking guy is making a point on his website. Just not enough real concrete evidence for me. I have broken in many new engines and if you plan to keep them long term, a careful break-in is real east to do and very inexpensive insurance for a good experience IMHO.quote:
Originally posted by Adam Wade:
Interesting ideas on break-in.
I've built a number of older Japanese motors, and used both "book" break-in and MotoMan's braek-in, and my experience has been that breaking in a motor hard and fast increases compression and reduces blow-by.
You have a Harley, that sounds like your problem. I've owned many a Japanese motorcycle and broken them in hard. I'm getting 110 rwhp when others are getting about 104-105. Also I ride probably 4-5x as many miles as the average Hardley rider, er should I say biker. If your blowing any modern engine it sounds like you should considering buying something else.quote:
Originally posted by KBFXDLI:
I have read these as well and that seems to be one guys opinion and all my "techie" friends pretty much agree that more than just rings get broken in on a new motor and running a green motor hard is not good all those other things like bearings, valvetrain etc. Plus, I don't have the courage to go take my brand new $16,000 motorcycle out and run the **** out of it when all the dealer wrenches tell me not to just because some greasy looking guy is making a point on his website. Just not enough real concrete evidence for me. I have broken in many new engines and if you plan to keep them long term, a careful break-in is real east to do and very inexpensive insurance for a good experience IMHO.quote:
Originally posted by Adam Wade:
Interesting ideas on break-in.
I've built a number of older Japanese motors, and used both "book" break-in and MotoMan's braek-in, and my experience has been that breaking in a motor hard and fast increases compression and reduces blow-by.
Like my buddy said..."Is Motoman gonna rebuild your blown motor for you?"
quote:
Originally posted by Ninjaracer636:
quote:
Originally posted by KBFXDLI:
Originally posted by Adam Wade:
[qb] Interesting ideas on break-in.You have a Harley, that sounds like your problem. I've owned many a Japanese motorcycle and broken them in hard. I'm getting 110 rwhp when others are getting about 104-105. Also I ride probably 4-5x as many miles as the average Hardley rider, er should I say biker. If your blowing any modern engine it sounds like you should considering buying something else.
I remember John Britten would rev the h*** out of an engine right after he started it. He basically said that if it's not stout enough to stand up to that then it's basically worthless. It's my understanding the H-D's have huge design flaws. I just think it's stupid that you have to watch every little thing and baby a $16,000 motorcycle. For that money it should be tough as nails. Also I'd rather be riding than doing contant maintenence, but for people who ride for 1 hour and polish chrome for 3 it fits, I suppose.Ninja, most Harley riders started out on high HP metric bikes (me included) so a Harley is not a "problem" but rather a choice. Plus I really don't measure my riding experience by simply the amount of HP at the wheel plus I'm probably older than you are and don't need to light my hair on fire anymore. I'm on my second HD and they don't have the maintainence issuse of the AMF days. That's why all the metric bike makers are making Harley copies. Maybe when you get older you will change your outlook....some of the wildest rides I have ever taken were on a Yamaha not a Harley..but chicks like Harleys a lot more than *** bikes so if you like women....slow down...get a real American Motorcycle and have some REAL fun.
I know but my new TC88 is running so well that I think it would be a sin to have to tear it apart. I am taking the advice from Jack Hester to run it in break in mode with frequent oil changes until 2500. I switched to synthetics at 100 then I'll change at 500, 1000 and 2500 miles then I'm done. Small price to pay. I don't baby the engine but not beating it either ( nothing over 3500 rpm like the book says). This engine starts perfectly and runs quiet & smooth. I am very impressed. My Sportster was definitely rougher running.quote:
Originally posted by Superglide:
As for KBFXDLI's comment on motoman fixing a blown engine on a $16,000 bike, no he won't but I work for harley and we will.
Remimber the two year warrenty you got.