Generator question. 120/240 50A outlet

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Jun 8, 2016
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Texas, USA
Hey guys, got a question about something that isn't covered in the owner's manual.

Bought an adapter cord that will allow me to plug the higher amp. 120 volt appliances into the 50 amp outlet on the generator, leaving the 20 amp plugs open for smaller stuff.

Westinghouses's smaller generators have a 120/240 toggle switch for the 50 amp outlet, while mine doesn't. Does this outlet automatically choose the right voltage? I don't want 240 volts going to my portable AC and refrigerator. What am I missing?

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120 and 240 are always present on that outlet. The four wires are hot1, hot2, neutral and ground. 120 VAC is drawn between either hot and neutral. 240 VAC is drawn between hot1 and hot2. Technically speaking it's called split phase.

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US electricity isn't really 240V So if that adapter cord is wired right, it will place ~120v on each of the outlets.
 
To get to full rating running 120 volt loads, you have to balance the load between the two sides. Putting it all on one side will burn out the generator windings even though the total wattage is less than rated.

The switch on smaller models connects the two windings in parallel instead of series, so that the full output can be applied to one 120 volt circuit, and the situation above is not an issue.

There are no breakers on the 50 A outlet so you have to be very careful about not overloading.
 
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You really need to send that back.
If it is 'un-breakered', as it appears to be, it is NOT intended to be used for Gen Pur appliances, which are designed to have a supply breaker. (looks to me like it's intended to replicate, say, a motor home supply, which would go to an incoming breaker set.)
You are gaining nothing by using that '50A' cheater cord except trouble.
Put your appliances, 1 each, on the 120 circuits, and buy a splitter for each for additional low loads, if you must.
 
I had a generator like that. One of the 120 V outlets is connected to Hot1 and the other will be connected to Hot2. when you use the generator, balance your loads between the two outlets for best performance.

The adapter looks like it correctly splits the 240 into separate 120V outlets. it should work fine.
 
To get to full rating running 120 volt loads, you have to balance the load between the two sides. Putting it all on one side will burn out the generator windings even though the total wattage is less than rated.

The switch on smaller models connects the two windings in parallel instead of series, so that the full output can be applied to one 120 volt circuit, and the situation above is not an issue.

There are no breakers on the 50 A outlet so you have to be very careful about not overloading.
It has this:

Main Circuit Breaker: The main circuit breaker controls total output of all outlets to protect the generator from overload or short circuit.

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Just use the 30A plug and don't worry about having to balance loads. With that adapter you're still limited to 15/20 amp plugs anyway
 
Just use the 30A plug and don't worry about having to balance loads. With that adapter you're still limited to 15/20 amp plugs anyway
What is the difference between the 30A and the 50A not sure why using the 30 would be in any way different besides the adapter.
 
Something not mentioned for any of those outlets is wire length. Getting the higher power of that genny into many separate loads requires a lot of wire. that stubby adapter will not be as good as the longer thicker twist lock with the 120v pigtails at the far end where the loads will be.

With that much power i would suggest you look into an isolated single 50A line into your home fuse panel. In a power outage you wpuld open the main breaker then close the isolation breaker going to the generator and power will feed into the house panel. This will feed the whole house but you should open the breakers of anything you don't absolutely need. I ran my house for 2 weeks once without extension cords all over the place.
 
Those small or general purpose appliances are not designed to be, other than protected by a 15 or 20 amp breaker.
Their wire sizes and internal components are selected and approved by listing agencies (such as UL) based on a supply with a 15 or 20 amp breaker.
You do not protect small loads with a 50 amp breaker.
It's that simple.
 
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