Short Review of the new style Wen 56477i 4000/4800 Watt Inverter Generator

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Athens, GA
I noticed a few weeks ago that Wen appeared to have a new series of generators for sale. Looked like they were touted as 'quiet' and not 'super quiet' like the other bigger inverter units. I'd been looking for something to power up the RV when we start going longer distances and need to stop places that aren't in a park and I'd had my eye on one of their 3800 watt models. When this one came up for $512 shipped I figured why not. I have one of their little baby 1000 watt inverters and it has been a real trooper. It has 65 hours on it and runs great.

(The 'Sale' Thread)

I finally got a chance today to give it a bit of a break in powering the camper since I needed to clean it, its HOT outside and AC would be nice. I don't have a sufficient plug for running the AC available at the house.

No surprise, the unit powere up with a pull or two and immediately went to work. Power meter showed about 50% use, so I thought I would turn the electric water heater on. It shrugged that off as well. It did give it up when I turned on the microwave, but that was to be expected. I reset the output and went back to just running the AC, I didn't need hot water, and if we are traveling and need the microwave I can always use propane to heat the water.

I'm currently showing 4.2 hours on the meter and it is starting to blink that it is running out of fuel, that matches up to what they claim, which is 7 hours at 25% power output. So 4 out of 50% tracks.

I've already popped a magnetic dipstick in it and changed the oil once, as expected, the factory fill has a nice sheen to it. I'll probably let it go another 4 or 8 hours and change it again.

The readout shows, load %, Fuel %, and then you can cycle through voltage/frequency/current run time/overall run time.

Overall, for ~$512, I'm happy. It isn't Honda quiet, but I didn't expect it to be. The baby one I have is quieter, but it is also 1/4 the output.

At 50% running the AC (Fridge and lights as well, but the lights are LED and the fridge is 12v and only pulls 4-5 amps of 12v). There's nothing wrong with the display in these pictures, they must be using some multiplexing to drive the display and it is really goofy on camera. IRL it looks just fine.


IMG_20230702_135817917_HDR.jpg


100% with the water heater element kicked on.

IMG_20230702_135845765_HDR.jpg
 
Nice find. 512 is a steal. I recall an article showing that the differences between premium and entry level units often has things like vibration and moisture proofing, from fully potted boards to simply anchoring every inch of cabling with zip ties to counter vibration fatigue. While you might not want to pot the inverter, zip ties and an inline fuel filter might be nice adds.

A/C use is hard on a gennie. Have you seen the soft start kits which can be added to RV compressors?
 
I tested an inverter generator a while back. For fuel efficiency I weighed a specific amount of gasoline. Warmed up the generator on what was in the tank, ran it dry, added the measured amount of gas.

Put a kill-a-watt meter on it, and appropriate load. Video-taped the kWH because, of course, the screen goes blank when the power goes out.

Did the math, found that making my own power is about 6x the cost of getting it from the utility. But I recommend this method if you want to geek out.
 
I tested an inverter generator a while back. For fuel efficiency I weighed a specific amount of gasoline. Warmed up the generator on what was in the tank, ran it dry, added the measured amount of gas.

Put a kill-a-watt meter on it, and appropriate load. Video-taped the kWH because, of course, the screen goes blank when the power goes out.

Did the math, found that making my own power is about 6x the cost of getting it from the utility. But I recommend this method if you want to geek out.

I would have expected it to be more actually.

The only reason I have for running it at home is if it is hot and I need to do inside work to the camper (IE clean it after a trip), other than that, the regular little extension cord gives it enough power to run everything I need to get it ready for a trip easily.

I'm just lazy and haven't installed a 30a 110v outlet in the garage.

Otherwise, this will be for Cracker Barrell/Walmart overnight stops if we're on the road, cause I'm not sleeping without AC and fans.
 
A/C use is hard on a gennie. Have you seen the soft start kits which can be added to RV compressors?

Yep, I was thinking about installing one when I was going to buy a 2000 watt unit and just strap it and the 1000 watt one together. That would have worked, but that's carrying 2 machines with me an a whole lot more screwing around than just carrying one bigger machine.

As it is, this one has the nutz to easily start the AC over and over.
 
The owner's manual for my welding machine says it would need a generator with 10 KW continuous output and 12.5 KW peak output.

I'm guessing that translates to about 12,500 Watts.
 
The owner's manual for my welding machine says it would need a generator with 10 KW continuous output and 12.5 KW peak output.

I'm guessing that translates to about 12,500 Watts.
You would be correct. Probably why most portable welders directly drive a generating head. Be a little dumb to generate AC and then generate some different AC with the welder when you can just generate what you need directly.

Haven't looked, but I'll bet there are newer units that do have inverters in them to generate cool waveforms for welding.
 
Well, so much for changing the oil again at 10 hours. I'd already changed it at 5 and wanted to do it again, but Northeast GA got hammered by a line of storms this evening and knocked out our power around 1830, so I figured I'd just send it and be comfy in the house.

I've got the window unit, 5 fans, fridge, 70" TV, all of my office computer/network equipment, and a handful of LED lights and we are hovering around 50% on the power meter give or take. I'm not tracking fuel usage though, so no data on that, but we've got everything going to be comfortable for the evening.

Of course, in a pinch I'd just move everything to the camper and live out of it until the power comes back, but I suspect this won't be out more than 5-6 hours.

I do have to fix my extension cord game though.... parts already ordered..
 
Well, power was out for a grand total of 10 hours, which is a really long outage for us. Came back on at about 4 am and I shut everything down. By my estimation, I used between 3-4 gallons of fuel running the unit for 8.6 hours. Acceptable in my book.
 
Get a manual transfer switch and connect your most important circuits. I have a ten circuit model that powers everything essential plus a few luxuries.
The problem is it isn't a 240v generator, so it would be a big pain to do that. Easier just to drop a few cords. Almost everything in my office is on 1 strip, so it is just a matter of plugging that in, same with the TV stuff in the living room.
 
Get a manual transfer switch and connect your most important circuits. I have a ten circuit model that powers everything essential plus a few luxuries.
I put in a manual transfer switch so it's easy to power the house up. My wife can do it with our E start 5600/8000k Craftsman gen set if I'm not home. Well, oil boiler, refrigerator, bathroom lights and others switch right over. 6k window air conditioner in bedroom also if needed runs no problem. Microwave is the biggest load on the gen.
 
The problem is it isn't a 240v generator, so it would be a big pain to do that. Easier just to drop a few cords. Almost everything in my office is on 1 strip, so it is just a matter of plugging that in, same with the TV stuff in the living room.
I don't see how 120 vs 240 VAC on the generator makes any difference. Manual transfer switches sit between your main panel and the loads. It's a simple install - did it myself. My wife now knows how to connect the genrator, start it, and throw the transfer switches. I don't race home from work now and she feels "empowered."
 
I suppose you could break the load and power up both halves of the panel. I haven't really looked into it, but seems like 240v and powering up the panel as it is powered from municipal would be much easier.

Also wouldn't be able to power up any of the 240v stuff. It would be nice to run my heat pump water heater if needed, or the HVAC heat pump. Can't do that with 120v.

Link to the switch you used?


Something like that? Makes sense. First I'd seen those. I'm more familiar with just breaking the main input and powering the entire panel.
 
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