Generator power plug

[buck91]

So my new generator has a couple of different power plug options and I'd just like to ask for some advice on the best one to use. Well, its a little trickier than that as I haven't 100% decided how I want to integrate this into my home wiring. I know I want to at least power my furnace and sump pump, though anything else could be easily run off extension cords. Anyways, not the point of my post.

I have the following power outlets:
- 12vdc "cigarette plug"
- L14-30R
- 20A Duplex (5-20R) this is a standard two plug residential outlet
- TT-30R (30 amp RV outlet) with adapter for L5-30R.

So I figure I would utilize either a L14-30 or TT-30 or L5-30 to run power to my furnace and sump. Is there any practical difference between these options; would one be superior for my use?

 

[CharBaby]

This may not be exactly what you are asking and IDK if I am saying this correctly but, here goes.

After my buddy purchased his Harbor Freight Predator 9000 watt Generator(I should do the same) he had an electrician friend come over and somehow tap into the homes circuit breaker box(if I said that right) to give the new HF generator its own electrical box that it(the generator) can be connect to on the outside of the home. [new/2nd breaker box inside/electrical connection outside].

When they lose power, my buddy can now throw a switch which cuts off the houses' circuits and transfers it to the other(smaller) circuit box.

THEN, on the outside of the house, my buddy will connect the large electrical cord from the generator to the LARGE electrical outlet connection on the outside of house(connected to the small circuit box on the inside). NOW, start the generator and it will power all of the areas of the home that my buddy had designated. Not the whole house, just what they will need for emergency use.

Furnace, kitchen, 1 bathroom, a few lights, maybe some TV, IDK!

 

[dlundblad]

I know nothing about generators, but I believe it's the RV plug that you could have running from your breaker box to an outside plug on your house like what Char Baby said. Of course, I am sure there's more wiring involved than this, but you get the idea.

The traditional plug would just be for running 1 thing plugged directly to the generator. Electric tools, sump pump etc.

What size did you end up getting? I am wanting to get one as well, but can't even decide on a fuel type yet.

 

[cpayne5]

Originally Posted by buck91
So my new generator has a couple of different power plug options and I'd just like to ask for some advice on the best one to use. Well, its a little trickier than that as I haven't 100% decided how I want to integrate this into my home wiring. I know I want to at least power my furnace and sump pump, though anything else could be easily run off extension cords. Anyways, not the point of my post.

I have the following power outlets:
- 12vdc "cigarette plug"
- L14-30R
- 20A Duplex (5-20R) this is a standard two plug residential outlet
- TT-30R (30 amp RV outlet) with adapter for L5-30R.

So I figure I would utilize either a L14-30 or TT-30 or L5-30 to run power to my furnace and sump. Is there any practical difference between these options; would one be superior for my use?


The L14-30 is the way to go, IMO. It will provide 220, which is what you'll want if you'll be integrating it into your home's wiring via interlock or transfer switch.

Everything else is just 120 (except the 12v, obviously).

Also, if you want your generator to provide more 120 outlets, you can use something like this...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BHGY4VC/

 

[Bambam]

Use the L14-30 and a transfer switch, which will run you between 250 to 300 bucks. Safe and easy transfer of power and no chance of back feeding the power lines and zapping a worker. Reliance makes a real nice transfer switch.

 

[MasterSolenoid]

As Bambam said, use a Transfer Switch.
Advantages:
1) You only deal with one extension cord
2) When the Generator is supplying power to the house, there is NO chance of 'that' power going to outside lines and electrocuting elect co. worker.
3) You can run your Furnace, where without the Transfer Switch, you can not.

Edit: If your some-what handy, it's a do it yourself project.
I wired it up so I can power my Furnace, Sump Pump and Refrigerator.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I have a 200A panel.

I run my portable Generac 6500 when needed through a 15foot 12ga extension cord, ( I used 4 wire submersible well pump FLAT cable) plugged into the 30A clothes dryer 220 circuit.

When power goes out I disconnect the street feed with the main breaker then throw the dryer breaker. That well pump puts quite a load on the Generac.

Due to possible code violation, I cannot recommend this setup to anyone. But as long as I manage it - it has worked OK for the past decade.

I'm not paying 450+ bucks for the transfer switch - the gen only cost $749-

If my gen could situate near the breaker box side of the property, Id install a sub box with a 30A breaker Sw and feed it too a 220v 30A breaker in the mains panel. Still not optimal, but a little less trailer trashy.

 

[buck91]

So the L14 will due 220v to be used with amazon transfer switch. So if I wanted to wire up something to just isolate the furnace and sump the the TT or the L14 would wrk fine. With maybe a nod to the L14.

I appreciate the suggestions! Now I need to start reading on various hook up methods.

 

[ABursell]

I'd recommend looking into an interlock for your panel. Easy, less expensive, safe, and legal. And it allows you to pick and choose what you power without being limited to what's in the transfer switch.

You install a new 30A circuit breaker next to your main breaker and wire it to a generator inlet box. The interlock is installed on your panel cover. The interlock is a physical device that prevents the main breaker and generator breaker from being on at the same time. That way your generator inlet box can never be powered from the main, and when you use your generator you can never feed power past your main and into the power lines. The generator inlet not being powered is important because it should have a male end inside so that your cord can have a female end, keeping your cord from being energized with exposed pins. The main not back feeding is important because you don't want to hurt any linemen that think power is off.

These interlocks are panel specific. The oems even make them for newer panels and are $25-50. If you need to go aftermarket they are $100-150.

I have installed a couple and they work great.

 

[EdwardC]

Another option, if your specific breaker box will allow it, is to use an Interlock kit. This is a physical barrier that only allows either the mains to be connected, or two designated breakers, never both. You then back feed the 220V from the generator into those two designated breaker locations. Usually they use a pair of breaker slots up top, so it may take some circuit relocation.

Here's the first link to an aftermarket manufacturer or interlocks. Your breaker box manufacturer may sell one as well. https://www.interlockkit.com/

 

[Schmoe]

I go exactly what ARCO does and for his reasoning as well. Never had a problem and I'm the one that has control and responsibility over it, meaning, I'm the one that makes sure the main breaker is off before anything is connected or turned on. I also put duct tape over the mains when they are in the off position. In my case, luckily, the previous owners installed a 30A/220V outlet in the garage, I'm thinking they did the same thing. Do this now, label EVERY breaker in your box so you know exactly which one does what. You don't want to be guessing when the time comes. I shut off the main and close ALL the breakers. Get gen running for a few minutes and making sure those breakers are off as well. Connect the 220 line from the gen to the outlet in the garage. Turn on breakers on the generator, then turn on the breaker for that outlet in the breaker box. From there, I turn on the breakers that I need on like the furnace, refrigerator, some lights. I got a 5500 watt gen, so it won't pull the main AC, but it will pull a window unit in one of the bedrooms so that we all sleep comfortable. Sometimes, you got to rotate usages, but it can work.

 

[NormanBuntz]

Pick a suitable transfer switch first. Then decide on your wiring.

 

[Touring5]

Like others have mentioned, I installed a breaker interlock device. I ran 10 ga wire (bought orange color for easy identification) from the panel to twistlock type access box in the garage, then made a 20 foot inconnect cable from 12 ga SO type with appropriate twist lock plug/sockets.
One thing I read while researching was something about whether interlock kits met code: it seems to be up for debate, but I did find one reference that said an interlock device is OK as long as it is manufactured and approved by the same manufacturer of the breaker panel. For that reason I got a genuine Square D kit and made sure to affix the included stickers/info to the outside of the panel door.

Some inverter generators (including my Champion) only output 120 VAC power which can present a problem in powering up the two "sides" of your panel. I did it by connecting the hot from the generator to both L1 and L2 as my house only has one 230 breaker (for the A/C) which must be flipped OFF when the generator is providing power. I also put colored labels on each breaker position to indicate which circuits should be on or off when using the generator. Since I'm the only one who would be doing the switch over, it's not a problem.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted by buck91
So my new generator has a couple of different power plug options and I'd just like to ask for some advice on the best one to use. Well, its a little trickier than that as I haven't 100% decided how I want to integrate this into my home wiring. I know I want to at least power my furnace and sump pump, though anything else could be easily run off extension cords. Anyways, not the point of my post.

I have the following power outlets:
- 12vdc "cigarette plug"
- L14-30R
- 20A Duplex (5-20R) this is a standard two plug residential outlet
- TT-30R (30 amp RV outlet) with adapter for L5-30R.

So I figure I would utilize either a L14-30 or TT-30 or L5-30 to run power to my furnace and sump. Is there any practical difference between these options; would one be superior for my use?


Install a transfer switch to power the furnace and possibly other circuits. A 6 circuit transfer switch is not that expensive. Wiring is pretty easy. You want to keep doors closed, not open for an extension cord. Need to avoid any CO getting into home.

 

[sloinker]

Everyone does realize there is a permit process when installing a transfer switch/interlock. As a homeowner you are allowed to do the installation yourself instead of hiring a licensed/bonded electrician. If your luck is real bad and you install a generator into your existing panel without an inspected and passed permit then your insurance company will avoid liability if an unlikely accident occurs. My advise is to pull a permit, buy and install your transfer switch and have a final inspection. It's usually money well spent to do it right the first time. Check the desired loading and buy an appropriate size generator. Most 200A houses with moderate loads will need upwards of 7kw+ minimum continuous supply unless all you want to run are basic loads that you can stagger. Some of these transfer switches come with the circuits to feed limited loads with smaller generators . Those folks with the means and have a lot of power disruptions should permanently install a natural gas/propane generator and automatic transfer switch of 10KW so you can have an almost bumpless transition without giving up any of your comforts of home. These generator sizes are for full electrical homes. Those homes that utilize natural gas for heating,water,cooking etc need to do a load calculation to see the appropriate sized generator.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200665210_200665210

 

[Danno]

Originally Posted by Char Baby

After my buddy purchased his Harbor Freight Predator 9000 watt Generator(I should do the same) he had an electrician friend come over and somehow tap into the homes circuit breaker box(if I said that right) to give the new HF generator its own electrical box that it(the generator) can be connect to on the outside of the home. [new/2nd breaker box inside/electrical connection outside].

When they lose power, my buddy can now throw a switch which cuts off the houses' circuits and transfers it to the other(smaller) circuit box.

THEN, on the outside of the house, my buddy will connect the large electrical cord from the generator to the LARGE electrical outlet connection on the outside of house(connected to the small circuit box on the inside). NOW, start the generator and it will power all of the areas of the home that my buddy had designated. Not the whole house, just what they will need for emergency use.

Furnace, kitchen, 1 bathroom, a few lights, maybe some TV, IDK!


This is exactly how I have my generator back up setup.
In addition to the list, I added lights for each floor, garage door openers, fridge and freezer circuits to the list.
Used it once when we lost power for 14 hours at -30C, system worked great.

 

[Wolf359]

Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
I have a 200A panel.

I run my portable Generac 6500 when needed through a 15foot 12ga extension cord, ( I used 4 wire submersible well pump FLAT cable) plugged into the 30A clothes dryer 220 circuit.

When power goes out I disconnect the street feed with the main breaker then throw the dryer breaker. That well pump puts quite a load on the Generac.

Due to possible code violation, I cannot recommend this setup to anyone. But as long as I manage it - it has worked OK for the past decade.

I'm not paying 450+ bucks for the transfer switch - the gen only cost $749-

If my gen could situate near the breaker box side of the property, Id install a sub box with a 30A breaker Sw and feed it too a 220v 30A breaker in the mains panel. Still not optimal, but a little less trailer trashy.


That's fine, but you should really use a 10ga extension cord or make your own by buying the wire. 12ga is really mean for 20amp outlets and 10ga is for 30amps.

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted by Donald
Originally Posted by buck91
So my new generator has a couple of different power plug options and I'd just like to ask for some advice on the best one to use. Well, its a little trickier than that as I haven't 100% decided how I want to integrate this into my home wiring. I know I want to at least power my furnace and sump pump, though anything else could be easily run off extension cords. Anyways, not the point of my post.

I have the following power outlets:
- 12vdc "cigarette plug"
- L14-30R
- 20A Duplex (5-20R) this is a standard two plug residential outlet
- TT-30R (30 amp RV outlet) with adapter for L5-30R.

So I figure I would utilize either a L14-30 or TT-30 or L5-30 to run power to my furnace and sump. Is there any practical difference between these options; would one be superior for my use?


Install a transfer switch to power the furnace and possibly other circuits. A 6 circuit transfer switch is not that expensive. Wiring is pretty easy. You want to keep doors closed, not open for an extension cord. Need to avoid any CO getting into home.

I love my six circuit switch. Added benefit is I can activate circuits one by one so start up loads don't overload the generator.

Mine has a pair of watt meters on front plus I can tell from the sound of the generator how loaded it is. The watt meters are also good for testing various high priority appliances for load, like a kill a watt would also do.

 

[dakota99]

It's been my experience that interlock devices are the preferred method over transfer switches. Transfer boxes to me are outdated and archaic. You're locked into six or eight breakers whereas an interlock can power whatever you want in the entire panel. Interlocks are about half the price to install as well, easier.. etc.

Take a look at the front panel of your generator. If you're using an interlock or transfer switch that does not switch ground and neutral you will need a "floating neutral" gen. Some will say bonded neutral. The bond will need to be removed. Also keep it at least 25 feet away from the house for CO protection. I always recommend a 40 ft 10awg cable.

 

[eljefino]

Interlocks are best done during new construction. Then if you need to replace your main panel you don't need the PO Co to yank the meter. So little money up front.