Fully Confused Noobie - New car care

[odessit]

I am getting a pre-owned 2007 Scion tC with ~1000 miles on it. Since this will be my first "new" car, I would like to take a good care of the engine from the start.

Break-in period?
Toyota recommends changing first and every oil at 5000 miles. I guess I will take their recommendation until I establish baseline with couple UOI.

Once it is up - what is a good oil? 07 tC takes 0w20 or 5w50. I see many recommendations for MaxLife, M1...
What would be a good oil for a new car?

Oil Filter - I was always using Fram, I gues it's a no-no here. What is a good filter without going overboard with a price (unless it's REALLY worth it)?
Toyota YZZF1? Wix/Napa?

I am not planning on racing it, 50/50 highway/city driving. driving around NY/CT States and NY Metro area

Thanks

 

[Merkava_4]

Quote:

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Once it is up - what is a good oil? 07 tC takes 0w20 or 5w50.

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I'm sure you meant to say 0W-20 or 5W-20 right? Anyway, Motorcraft makes a real good 5W-20 synthetic blend you could try.

 

[Gene K]

Motorcraft 5W-20 Synthetic Blend would be a good choice for the price. $2.37 Qt at WalMart. Cheaper if you buy it by the 5 Qt Jug. Actually most SM/GF-4 Rated 5W-20 is likely a Synthetic Blend (Even if not marketed as such). There is very little difference between most SM/GF-4 conventional oils. If I was forced to choose the best I would likely lean toward Castrol GTX or Pennzoil. Almost any 5W-20 is going to be sufficient for 5,000 mi OCI in a Camry (TC) 4 Cylinder.

Filters: Factory Toyota Filters (Denso) are readily available and very good.

Champion (WalMart SuperTech among others) is sufficient and cheap for 5000 mi OCI. Purolator Premium Plus (Or rebrand like Havoline) are very good for 5000 mi OCI and cheap.

Wix (NAPA Gold) and Purolator Pure One have Silicone Valves and Synthetic Media if longer service is required.

 

[heathenbrewing]

I have an xB and I can pick up a 10-pack of filters from the dealer for $30. I dont think you find another filter better for $3.

Depends on your climate - Im in CA so 0w-anything is out of the question for me. Ive been running 5w30 and get higher MPG then it is rated for.

Dump that oil after 1K miles, then switch to every 5K. Some people will say it is not necessary to do an oil change that soon, but I see it as cheap insurance. You certainly wont hurt anything, and you just might help.

 

[Thatwouldbegreat]

If the Toyoata filters are $3 each in a 10 pack...might as well buy them.

I'd drain the factory oil between 3500 and 4500 miles and use any good name brand 5W-20 at 5000 mile intervals or synthetic 0W-20 or 5W-20 at 7000 mile intervals [IF WARRANTY PERMITS 7000 mile OIL CHANGES ]

0W-20 synthetic may give a very slight improvement in MPG, horsepower, driving feel, and reduced start up wear.

Redline oil makes a very good 5W-20 if you drive the vehicle really hard.
While it is still new, if you can find an empty road or giant parking lot where it is safe and legal to do this:

-warm the engine up fully and then do a number of nearly full throttle runs from 2500 RPM up to 4500 RPM and then let off and run zero throttle until it slows down. This could help seat the rings better.

After a 1000 miles, start to let the engine rev more freely and try to do full throttle up to near redline when the engine is warmed up...like getting on a highway.

Stay on top of maintenance and drive the car smoothly and you should have a car that runs great for a long long time.

 

[Gene K]

Its a Toyota 5000 mi or 6 month OCI period. Unless you want an argument if you have engine issues.

 

[wantin150]

On the oil filter:

You can also use the OEM filter for the 2003 Matrix XRS which is a little larger (longer) and holds more.

 

[nyr197]

I have a 2006 Scion TC. Great motor it has: 2.4l 2az-fe toyota 4cyl.

2007 uses 5w-20, 0w-20 is optional.
My car seems to enjoy Castrol Syntec 5w-20, and Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20.

Here is a UOA of Pennzoil Platinum in my car (only 3k run on the oil):
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post861248

The OEM Toyota filter is good, I use that. YZZF1
10 packs of them are online for ~$35.

 

[Greg L]

I had a 2001 Toyota with 2.2 engine; it wore nicely on Mobil synthetic.


Since this is a fairly new motor that you have, are you planning on breaking it in with Zinc (like SLOB additive or use of Rotella Syntehtic?)

Might be a good idea at this point in the engines life

GL

 

[Triple_Se7en]

I would not stress those new Toyota engine seals with high mileage oils. I am not a proponent of using those oils until the engine shows an issue or two.

A step-up oil for your new vehicle would be synthetic. Any name-brand will work fine. If the vehicle consumes with that brand, then move to another brand next time.

 

[odessit]

thanks everybody
The car is salvage-rebuilt, I have no warranty aside from 30 day used car dealer - calculated risk for a very large price drop on a practically new car.

I'll do some calculations and see if added expense of full synthetic and 7/8K OCI provides better ROI over the blend. I don't have no silly warranty anyway

Break-in with Zinc - how to do it? I assume with 1K miles it already is broken in?
I guess I would add SLOB or Rotella when I change oil?

nyr197 - nice numbers (LOL I can't compare them), but - - - - - - - this is one - - - - - - of insurance premium for 6 mo. I pay this in 1 year for 2 older cars in upstate NY (27, I have clean, my wify was feeling frisky one day... 10% increase in premiums)

 

[odessit]

I would not stress those new Toyota engine seals with high mileage oils.
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What do you mean by that?
Would Motorcraft 5W-20 Synthetic Blend, Castrol Syntec 5w-20, and Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20 be considered igh mileage oils?
Or are you talking about Rotella and SLOB?

 

[Greg L]

Check around your local Big Lots stores & see if they have any SLOB (Street Legal Oil Booster, pink bottle) left on the shelves. It is a great source for zinc. I usually add one bottle every other oil change. Use what ever oil works for you at this point with the SLOB.


If you can't get that, use Rotella Synthetic 5w30.


GL

 

[dwendt44]

Big Lots seem to be hit or miss on SLOB and/or motor oils generally.
Around here, BLs are out of SLOB; but I was in Springfield, IL and they had a bunch.
Local BL had only a couple of qts of Havoline oil; the Springfield, IL BL had jugs of Quaker State Q.
Go figure.

 

[Gene K]

Quote:

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I would not stress those new Toyota engine seals with high mileage oils.
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What do you mean by that?
Would Motorcraft 5W-20 Synthetic Blend, Castrol Syntec 5w-20, and Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20 be considered igh mileage oils?
Or are you talking about Rotella and SLOB?

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There have been no high mileage oils listed on this thread. I dont know what he is talking about.

SLOB is simply a booster containing normal oil additives and Rotella T Synthetic is a HDEO Fleet Oil usually found in a CI4+/SL dual rated Diesel/Gas 5W-40.

However I see no reason for anything beyond 5W-20 or 5w30 in this engine. MC 5W-20 or 5w30 Syn Blend will be fine for 5000 mi OCI. If you want to up it to 10,000 mi OCI then Amsoil ASM would be a good choice. Also Schaeffers makes some good products if you have access. If you are going 10,000 mi OCI you might consider going with a Synthetic Media Filter.

 

[odessit]

Unless anyone has better way I will do the following:
1. Change oil to MC 5w-20 (Use Toyota YZZF1 filter)
2. Add SLAB (or replace 1 & 2 with Rotella)
3. Run for a full 5000
4. Change oil (MC for now)
5. Do UOI at 5000 (Black Labs) and go from there.

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

Good replies, Gene, and Triple7,

Odessit, you wanna take good care from the start, and that's a good thing! Well, first thing is, bag the Zinc or any other additives for that matter, and per Triple Seven/GeneK's collective advice, same for the High Mileage motor oils. This isn't a heavy-duty application, it DOES NOT need additives beyond the original formulation. I think that has been established by the wiser heads here, not to mention the owner's manual from the factory, the EPA and of course, the outfits that formulate and distribute the finished oil. Find the synthetic of your dreams; Pennzoil Platinum is a favorite lately, M1, Quaker State has a couple that are good too. Shop these synthetics by price, go 5W20 in any one of those, and the car will be served with better motor oil than the engineers who designed it ever dreamed. Use an OEM or better filter such as a Purolator Premium. Advanced Auto's Total Grip is supposed to be good, also. Or, use a PureOne, Mobil1, Bosche, a NAPA Gold or WIX for two OCI. The Frams are out of favor owing to the partially-cardboard construction and high price, but are "adequate".

But your new beast does not need additives, zinc, moly, VSOT or any of the other ccrapp these peeps seem to be so anxious to see you dump in there. The engine won't run any better, longer or smoother. No benefit. Waste of money. No use. And, owing to the additional additive, over time, your catalytic converter will take this stuff on the chin, so to speak, contributing to an earlier than necessary demise due to fouling.

When are some of you folks gonna start feeding out decent info to the Newbs when they roll in here, anyway? DOHC eco-cars do NOT need this stuff dumped in. The cams, the rollers and the stresses incurred by these engines make additional zinc completely unnecessary. Certain folks need to go back and read the ILSAC/API testing methods and results for further info before they throw out "suspect" advice for the uninitiated to follow.

Odessit, there is a wealth of info written by folks who KNOW this stuff if you take advantage of the search function. Good luck with your new Scion. Sounds like a steal!

 

[Merkava_4]

How about a Toyota filter and some Motorcraft 5W-20 from Walmart?

Can you guys live with that?

 

[odessit]

Looks like I stir up a little war

I don't feel comfortable putting additives to oil - but what exactly does Zinc do to insides of the engine? - basically polishes some metal off for "better" fitting? Or does it bond to the parts to smooth out the rough spots?

Yah - 10 replies and 11 different advices

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

Zinc is a sacrificial additive, but more is not better by any means. They add zinc to modern PCMO, but not, under SM/GF4, as much as in SL and earlier grades. Modern engines don't need it as much as older cars did. More is not better in low HP engines of the current age. It's that simple.

It's not a war, Odessit, some folks dispense advice that's a little bit, shall we say, dated in its accuracy is all. A little ed-jimi-cation is all they require.