Fram PH3593A cut open

[meangreen01]

Sorry, not the best pics. I think my camera is on it's way out. But, I figured I'd throw 'em up for your viewing pleasure.

1998 Honda Prelude 2.2L 105k miles. Unknown mileage, unknown oil as this was the first OC on the vehicle since purchased at 103k. So I guess there's at least 2k on the oil/filter.

 

[daman]

Typical garbage looking FRAM-0-Death..

i hope your going with something better? like WIX,NG,etc..

 

[tinmanSC]

why do they use a metal core, and metal fastener for the vertical ends of the media, but cardboard end caps? One assumes the leaf spring on the bottoms puts too much pressure on the media to use cardboard, but then why not just go all the way and use a metal end cap? To save the 11 cents? *confused*

 

[sky7]

Originally Posted By: tinmanSC
why do they use a metal core, and metal fastener for the vertical ends of the media, but cardboard end caps? One assumes the leaf spring on the bottoms puts too much pressure on the media to use cardboard, but then why not just go all the way and use a metal end cap? To save the 11 cents? *confused*


11 cents times a gazillion is a lot o' cash.

 

[meangreen01]

Originally Posted By: daman
Typical garbage looking FRAM-0-Death..

i hope your going with something better? like WIX,NG,etc..


Puro Classic

 

[HBCALI]

Yuck. I hope you'll stay clear of "PH" (Fram) filters. I've heard the Fram XG (Gold) or TG (silver) cans are acceptable. But who cares - it's still a Fram product. Go with most anything else for around the same price. May I suggest Bosch or Pure One?

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Water/coolant in the oil? The Media doesnt do that without a lot of moisture in the sump. Short tripper?

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Just to qualify7 my next statement, I'm have worked as an automotive component mechanical engineer. The metal end caps are not required for stability in the absence of contaminated oil. Many filters have seamed/folded end pleats (after DENSO)Now, You get coolant contaminants in a sump and it will ruin or tear any filter up. Did not we see a failed P1 recently with the element torn through? Where's the hate there?
- The GREEN direction for these waste componentry consumables is to remove all metal (or incompatible mixed media)from the design. You will see a lot of engines spec'd w/ cartridge filters v. spin-on going forward. Of course you wouldnt think of that, since USA is predominantly a care-less, selfish throwaway culture

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: meangreen01
Originally Posted By: daman
Typical garbage looking FRAM-0-Death..

i hope your going with something better? like WIX,NG,etc..


Puro Classic

better

 

[meangreen01]

Originally Posted By: HBCALI
Yuck. I hope you'll stay clear of "PH" (Fram) filters. I've heard the Fram XG (Gold) or TG (silver) cans are acceptable. But who cares - it's still a Fram product. Go with most anything else for around the same price. May I suggest Bosch or Pure One?


Went with a Puro Classic as I feel it's a good value filter and I prefer metal end-caps.

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Water/coolant in the oil? The Media doesnt do that without a lot of moisture in the sump. Short tripper?


95% city driven. 2-5 mile trips across town with lots of stop lights. Unsure about coolent, but checked the radiator and it was full. Didn't see an overflow reservuoir(strange). Not really familiar w/Hondas. Oil looked dark, but not milky or obvious coolent contamination.

 

[webfors]

I believe the classic Fram design is fine in smaller filters. Haven't opened a bad one yet. But the larger ones... they almost always look like this.

 

[Eddie]

+1 ARCO... Comments like garbage & can of death is moronic comments.

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: Eddie
+1 ARCO... Comments like garbage & can of death is moronic comments.

Truth hurt?

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: meangreen01

Looks like something was off set and not sealing correctly. It left a groove around the center hole.

 

[Jim 5]

If you trust the paper as a filter media, and if you trust the glue that would otherwise attach the paper media to the steel end cap, then you should be able to get your head around a cardboard endcap.

I can deal with all that, and its not the reason that I don't buy them. I don't buy them because it's an economy-built filter for a premium price. If I'm going to spend what the PHs cost, then I want a better filter for my money, likely one with a nitrile ADBV.

I've bought them on sale and run them on cars I really value though. I really doubt I'm taking a statistically significant risk of failure because of the cardboard endcap.

I just don't see them as good value for the money, all things considered.

 

[river_rat]

+1
Like Bill in Utah always says, millions use them without issues, and he's right.
My gripes really are:
1. I don't know if that seals too good around the center tube the way they assemble them.
2. There also seems to be few pleats.
3. I can get a filter design I prefer for little-if any more-money.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: meangreen01

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Water/coolant in the oil? The Media doesnt do that without a lot of moisture in the sump. Short tripper?


95% city driven. 2-5 mile trips across town with lots of stop lights. Unsure about coolent, but checked the radiator and it was full.


Short trips like that will not burn off all the moisture that gets into the oil from the combustion process & ring blow-by. Oil temp needs to be above 200 deg F for a while to burn off all the moisture that gets into it from normal engine running.

Probably why the filter pleats are wavey without actually having any coolant system leaks into the motor.

 

[widman]

Personally I have no problem with the cardboard, but as you can see in this one, several that I have posted, and one I cut last week that I'll post when I get a chance, they don't center or cut the center hole to seal against the metal tube.

Those filters have a perforated metal tube trying to seal against the metal valve.

 

[Sayjac]

I can understand fiber endcap construction, I'm just not paying(to use an example) ~$4.54 for the PH#7317 orange can at Wally, when I can buy metal endcap construction with better rated efficiency(eg.,Classic, P1) for less money.

Just to quote Gary Allan from the linked troll thread. "They" being Fram/Honeywell. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/2133176/

"Exactly. If they didn't spend all the money on "renting" the competition out of most retailers, didn't sponsor, didn't advertise as much, they could sell the low end product for the $1.25 it's worth in comparison to the cheapest competitor.

Why reward inferior content just because it offers alleged comparable performance ..and do it at a premium?"

Pretty much the way I see it.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: river_rat
+1
Like Bill in Utah always says, millions use them without issues, and he's right.
My gripes really are:
1. I don't know if that seals too good around the center tube the way they assemble them.
2. There also seems to be few pleats.
3. I can get a filter design I prefer for little-if any more-money.


Agree, except on #1. They aren't designed to seal against the center tube... they seal against the end caps, which are bonded to the media. I hear this a lot and it needs clarification.