Ford V10 recomendations

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The V10 was originally spec'd for 5w30. You're at 14000 pounds, with larger tires and drive it hard, all three of which add significant bearing loads.

I wouldn't be shy about moving to a 5- or 0w-40; at least go to a 30.
 
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I certainly can’t say it’s the 5w20 oil but for sure you win the award for the the biggest honkin’ Godzilla vehicle that has ever run 5w20 oil.

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Mobil 1 is a very good oil. I have 0W-20 in my 5.7L V8 Tundra and have read that Toyota 0W-20 oil is supplied by Mobil 1 ... however I am currently not towing and the temps are very mild here. maybe a week or so in mid 90's and it then cools down ... the car is VERY happy with this oil. doesn't burn any and runs very cool and smooth, I monitor and record all temps under different conditions.
if it ain't broke don't fix it but even then I am thinking of switching to 5Wx30 since I haven't got used to 20 weight yet. I am old school and afraid of thin oil ... lol also I found out that the OM allows for thicker oil when hot and/or towing.

IF your problem was caused by using thin oil (20) then it would have happened with any oil.

what does you OM recommend for normal and other conditions like heavy load and/or towing in hot weather ...
driving slowly on sand and spinning tires and hot? day on the beach is harder on the engine but nothing a v10 shouldn't be able to handle!
Sounds more like a random failure caused by Ford than Mobil 1
 
5w-20 offers acceptable protection and better fuel economy. You have a modified 14K lb vehicle with larger tires that you drive hard. No way I'd have 5w-20 anywhere around that engine.
 
The "mod-motors" (4.6, 5.4, 6.8) are all generally fairly reliable, oil wise. They don't really care about what grade you use.
I would think any decent 5w-30 would do well; good overall choice that's hard to go wrong with; covers about any environment temps you'd ever see.
The failure the OP experienced likely had zilch to do with the lube used; it was a coincidental event.


There are plenty of examples of mod-motors running a million miles on many different grades of lubes. If your engine is going to fail, it's going to fail regardless of what's in the crankcase.


Here's just one example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjRgiAOHm-E
I was interested in the history of this truck, so I called the service center seen in the video and spoke with the service manager (Total Tire). https://total-tire.com/my_installers/map
Here's a synopsis of the overall history:
- first 5.4L engine ran 100k miles, had a catastrophic failure; replacement engine sourced from a salvage yard because the owner didn't want to wait on a reman or rebuild
- second engine 5.4L ran almost 1,000,000 miles; another failure; another engine sourced from a wrecked truck
- third engine 5.4L ran more than 1,000,000 miles; another failure; another salvage engine replaced it
- forth engine 5.4L ran another 1,000,000 miles; truck was totaled in a wreck
- vehicle replaced with another SD with 7.3L engine
I asked what oil is used to service the gas engines in this truck; only Havoline 10w-40 conventional oil, every 7-10k miles when the owner made it in during his delivery routes. Mod motors are not specd for that lube, but it seems to do fine. UOA macro data shows mod-motors really don't have an affinity for any one grade, although thicker oil does tend to cause issues with the VCT at times. BTW - you did read that right; the truck itself had over 3 million miles on it when totaled. Whereas the video covered the first million miles, the truck actually accumulated more than 3 million miles long after the video story was done by a local news agency.

My point? Well, if you want to credit the "thick" oil for the three engines that ran over a million miles, then you also have to blame it for the first failure of the OEM engine. Can't have it both ways ... Either the oil was the cause of engine failure, but also subsequent successes, or the more likely explanation is that the grade does not matter, and it was only a coincidence regarding the failures or successes.


And there's also this:
http://www.millionmilevan.com/
over 1M miles on Valvoline 10w-40. Mod-motor engine died; vehicle stopped. Longer OCIs (10k-20k miles). Did he use syns? Does it matter? If he didn't, you might want to blame the oil. If he did, why not blame the oil?



Lube grade selection RARELY has any affect on a mod-motor. Some other engine families may be finicky; not the mod-motors. If a mod-motor fails, it's due most often to a manufacturing issue or defect. It may fail in less than 100k miles, or it may roll to a million. If you were to use a grade so absurdly out of spec, it may cause an issue (say using a 10w-10, or a mono 50 grade). But about any decent and "normal" multi-grade oil (0w-20 up to 10w-40 grade and everything in between) pretty much returns the same expected engine wear rates, no matter what is selected.


You didn't mention UOAs, so I'm going to presume there were none. You have no idea if this was a chronic failure or acute; has it been degrading over time or just blew chunks all at once? I realize the failure seemed immediate to you, but the signs may have been present along the way but without UOAs you'll never know. Once opened up, you'll know more.



Most simply put ... the oil grade used didn't cause this engine to fail any more than it's going to assure the next one will last a million miles. And the same goes for base stocks; syns are not going to make it last a million miles any more than the dino example I showed above.
 
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OP,
I would run atleast a 5W30 and probably a xW40

How about Castrol Edge 5W40 or Valvoline SynPower 5W40 MST.
 
Originally Posted By: JLTD
The V10 was originally spec'd for 5w30. You're at 14000 pounds, with larger tires and drive it hard, all three of which add significant bearing loads.

I wouldn't be shy about moving to a 5- or 0w-40; at least go to a 30.

Then in 2015 Ford went back to their 5w-30 recommendation for the 6.8l, check out the current manuals at the Ford owners site.

I personally run a ACEA A3/B4 in mine, currently Castrol 0w-30. That gives you a choice from 0w-30 to 15w-50.

Nothing wrong with going to M1 5w-30 or 0w-40.
 
I suspect detonation. 100,000 miles is a long time to run if there was an assembly problem.

As for the oil, there are plenty of hard working V10's with 5w-20 in the sump, including motorhomes.
 
Originally Posted By: Quigley
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
The rod bearing failure had NOTHING to do with the brand of oil you were using, I also highly doubt it being a 20W had anything to do with it either.

Was the engine tore down & inspected?


not tore down , i have the new engine sitting on the floor and going back in Friday , was going to take the pan off and inspect before the core goes back ,, never lost oil pressure and still ran like nothing was wrong except for the sledge hammer knock ..


What if your noise is not a rod bearing failure? Hard to believe you purchased an engine before confirming the nature of the problem.
 
I'll disagree with the above. Here in hot n sticky South Florida, we repeatedly see bearing failures on heavily loaded engines using uber thin oils. The solution remains the same, more viscosity.

Furthermore, the Ford modular engines have a unique oil pump that is prone to leaking at the back plate. Uber thin oils simply leak rapidly under the back plate, this is a KNOWN CONTRIBUTOR to increased engine wear and engine failure.
 
When that V-10 first came out, it specified a 5w30, didn't it?

Despite the recommendation for 5w20 for your model year, I would feel a lot more comfortable with a 5w30 going forward.
 
I would not send the core back until the root cause of the failure has been determined. It would be a shame to damage a second engine because the original problem was not diagnosed.
 
Originally Posted By: Quigley



shes is a beast.. having it towed almost a 100 miles home was not fun ...
e p

The picture shows the beast on a beach. What percentage of time does it run through sand? The rolling resistance of running over soft terrain would add to the required output from the engine. (Not to mention the extra grit the air filter has to deal with.) It's not Mobil 1's fault, this application is appropriate for at least a 30-weight oil, perhaps 40.

Take the failed engine apart and post pictures of the failed bearing!
 
I have a 2012 e450 cutaway box truck with the V10. Always used 5w30 synthetic with no issues so far. Always carrying a heavy load NYC delivery tons of idle time.Not a big fan of 5/20 in a heavy duty application.
 
My '08 motorhome is 19,700 m/t(no supplies) but full of fuel(85 gal.) and I use M1 5/30 or 0/40. Been all over the west and have tackled some of the highest, steepest grades out here and this V-10 just keeps kicking a$$.

ROD
 
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