flush and fill Volvo S80

[iExcel]

Hey guys!

For the first time, I'm planning to flush the cooling system of my 2013 Volvo S80 with 120, 000 KMs and here are the steps in my mind.

1. drain the coolant by opening the petcock
2. close the petcock
3. fill the expansion tank with distilled water
4. run the vehicle for 10-15 min until the thermostat is open
5. wait till the system to cool down
6. repeat #1 -> #5 multiple times until the water comes out clear
7. drain for the last time
8. fill the expansion tank with concentrate (50% of the total capacity)
9. top off the system with distilled water to reach 50/50 ratio

Is there anything incorrect or that I missed ? I'm thinking of getting a spill free funnel but wonder If I really need one since the Volvo has an expansion tank? TIA!

 

[Sam_Julier]

I would premix the coolant and distilled water. More accurate.

Not sure if you have the I-6 or the I-5. From my experience the I-5 is hard to get the air out. A vacuum or a metering funnel really helps. Both are simple to use and inexpensive.

@Astro14 has more experience in this area that I do.

 

[Astro14]

Why not drain it all the way? The petcock on the radiator gets about half out. There should be another drain.

Once drained, vacuum fill with 50/50 and you’re done. All the extra water isn’t cleaning anything.

Vacuum fill is the way to go. About $60 for the tool You’ll need a compressor. Fill it once, no air bubbles, and you’re done. No repeat bleeding cycles.

Volvo uses good coolant. It’s good for ten years. Here’s a 19 year old water pump. 234,000 miles, on the left, next to a brand new one. No corrosion. No worries

 

[SureshR]

Unless your existing coolant is discolored and you see other symptoms like your engine overheating there should be no particular use in anything beyond draining out the coolant as far as possible, pouring in a slug of distilled water and draining that and then refilling with coolant concentrate + distilled water that you mix in advance or buy as a premix.

 

[barkingspider]

I did my vehicles he way you are planning to do yours and it’s all good. Your are not forgetting anything

 

[pbierre]

How to know when coolant needs replacing?

Measure the pH of the coolant, using test strips or an electronic pH probe.
When the pH has turned acidic ( pH < 7.0 ), the coolant must be flushed and renewed. If this maintenance is deferred, the coolant is slowly corroding the metal parts of the cooling system -- which ultimately causes thermostat failure, and leaks in the radiator and cabin heater.

Fresh coolant (50-50 mix of concentrate + DI water) restores pH to ~8. This fluid pH is non-reactive to metal surfaces, since it is basic.

 

[pbierre]

Why not drain it all the way? The petcock on the radiator gets about half out. There should be another drain.

Once drained, vacuum fill with 50/50 and you’re done. All the extra water isn’t cleaning anything.

Vacuum fill is the way to go. About $60 for the tool You’ll need a compressor. Fill it once, no air bubbles, and you’re done. No repeat bleeding cycles.

Volvo uses good coolant. It’s good for ten years. Here’s a 19 year old water pump. 234,000 miles, on the left, next to a brand new one. No corrosion. No worries View attachment 168651

Where do you connect the vacuum pump to bleed out the air?

 

[Astro14]

Where do you connect the vacuum pump to bleed out the air?

The pump I've got (see below) has a set of adapters that fit in the pressure cap of the reservoir. So, fit the rubber adapter, fire up the shop air, vacuum it down, close the valve, shut off shop air, hook up the coolant siphon, suck it into the system.

Easy.

The kit is about $80, but with every car I own (save one) you need a vacuum lift to properly fill the system and avoid air bubbles. It works great. Mine is an "Airlift" brand - which is now three times what I paid for it.

But this Mishimoto looks nice, and doubles as a pressure tester.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08X7FXR9V?psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp