Flat tappet 350

A typical stock flat tappet camshaft does not have lofty ZDDP requirements. Where you start running into the need for more protection is with more aggressive aftermarket grinds with faster ramps and higher lift, requiring higher spring pressure.

What are the specs on the engine?

M1 0w-40 is a personal favourite of mine in old smallblocks.
 
I'll work on getting the specs posted as soon as possible. I guess I'm just wrapped up in synthetics, and that's why I would like to switch over to one. Does anybody have any knowledge of the royal purple HP?
 
I'll work on getting the specs posted as soon as possible. I guess I'm just wrapped up in synthetics, and that's why I would like to switch over to one. Does anybody have any knowledge of the royal purple HP?
I don't like the high Sulfur in the synerlec additve. It's so high it alone would probably keep it from getting an API cert.

C'Mon you must know SOME basics on the engine?
Who is the reman company? Were you not involved in the spec'ing of it? You got to be to give them your truck drivetrain specs.

Is this a street strip car?

BTW, I live about 10 miles south of New England Dragway.

Going to the car show on Saturday there with a couple cars - weather permitting.

Maybe I'll see you there. Wear your BITOG Oil Warrior arm patch for I.D. :)
 
High Performance Lubricants HDEO 10w-30 has ~1200 ppm ZDDP and can easily go much farther than 3k miles. Their BAS oil would work as well and it's loaded with friction modifiers.
 
I don't like the high Sulfur in the synerlec additve. It's so high it alone would probably keep it from getting an API cert.

C'Mon you must know SOME basics on the engine?
Who is the reman company? Were you not involved in the spec'ing of it? You got to be to give them your truck drivetrain specs.

Is this a street strip car?

BTW, I live about 10 miles south of New England Dragway.

Going to the car show on Saturday there with a couple cars - weather permitting.

Maybe I'll see you there. Wear your BITOG Oil Warrior arm patch for I.D. :)
It's a 77 C10 according to his OP so I'm guessing it's similar to my crate engine from GM except mine is TBI but I'm guessing it's just a stock 195ish HP crate motor they make for pickups. Personally I didn't feel the need to know any more, my mech suggested it when I told him I didn't want to put a used or remanufactured engine in.
 
It's a 77 C10 according to his OP so I'm guessing it's similar to my crate engine from GM except mine is TBI but I'm guessing it's just a stock 195ish HP crate motor they make for pickups. Personally I didn't feel the need to know any more, my mech suggested it when I told him I didn't want to put a used or remanufactured engine in.
I wish folks would think of TORQUE for street cars. It make them more enjoyable and livable.
It's all where the torque is and that's what you drive on 95% of the time.
You want torque peaking around 2500 rpm in a truck with an auto so you have excellent torque from 1500 to 3500.
In a V8 on road truck you want to run the engine from 1200 and shift at 1800 or so.
 
Exactly, it's basically a run-of-the-mill 350 reman. Mechanical fuel pump, nothing punched out, bored over, or race worthy. Has a 4 Barrel 600 CFM carburetor. I honestly don't know the specifications for horsepower, torque or anything else, I would say it's about average. Pulls the truck along good, and will smoke the tires.
Ps I absolutely love the New England Dragway!
 
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