Engine Noise vs Wear Protection

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
What about 5W-20 ... shear down to a 16 or less?

WHY I am VERY reluctant to use anything but a very 'stout' (in BOTH base stock composition AND add pack) 5W-20 in my 1.6 EcoBoost, even for the winter OCI.
Throw the DI fuel dilution into that mix, and it becomes even more incentive to NOT use the specced 5W-20 (but the 5W-30 IS 'allowed' in the two following year's U.S. manuals for this same exact car

) , especially in the summer.

I am going to use what most on here will label an 'overly thick' oil for this engine this summer, a 5W-30 with a 3.7 HTHSV, about a FULL point higher, or more, than most of the 5W-20's HTHSVs on the market.

I will accept the slight MPG, and even slighter power 'hit' in order to get this (Ravenol REP 5W-30) oil's other benefits for the summer OCI (GREAT base stock, LOW NOACK, stout add pack, and low SA).

 

[BrocLuno]

Originally Posted By: PimTac
A couple of things. First the new DI engines make their own noise because of the injection system. A lot of people might be confusing that with actual engine noise. Secondly, with most engines being aluminium both in the block and head plus some of the internals depending on the make, iron is becoming less and less. Some have iron cylinders and some do not.

So when we see iron numbers in a UOA we have to understand the composition of the engine.


Absolutely

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: turnbowm
Could there be some connection between high wear metals in M1 UOAs and noisier engines? Hmmm...


The acceptable limit for iron is 150PPM.


That may be acceptable depending on how many miles were driven. Long story short most people here would freak out if they ran up to a 10K mile OCI and saw 150 ppm of iron.

Back on topic, I'm from the school of thought that when you hear any noise in an engine sounding like metal is on metal it isn't good. So if an engine calls a 20 grade oil and brand X oil is making the engine noisy, and brand y in the same grade isn't, then I'd use brand y.


This comes from the "What is oil Analysis" article from BITOG.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/what-is-oil-analysis/

 

[gfh77665]

I loved the effect of getting away from 5w-20 oil in my 2006 Honda Odyssey. Noticeably quieter with 5w-30.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

I haven't heard idling Accord or Civic engines in decades now. Some drive right past me in parking lots and if I'm not looking in that direction, I'd never know those vehicles were passing-by-me. That's using either thin 0W or 5W-20 also.

 

[PimTac]

Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
I haven't heard idling Accord or Civic engines in decades now. Some drive right past me in parking lots and if I'm not looking in that direction, I'd never know those vehicles were passing-by-me. That's using either thin 0W or 5W-20 also.


Yep. Ive been surprised as well to have a car go past me with absolutely no noise at all and we are not talking electric cars here. To me it’s a sign of good quality and excellent soundproofing.

On the opposite side, I’ve been in a parking lot when someone starts their diesel pickup and you had to yell to have any kind of conversation.

 

[jjbula]

An old story but it may be interesting for those thinking about engine noise.

I still drive my "sludge monster" 2001 V6 Camry with 186K on it. I joined BITOG hoping to avoid widespread problems that eventually resulted in an extended warranty on these cars ('97-'01) that specifically referenced engine sludge. A major contributor to sludge formation in these engines, small drainback holes in the lifters, have since been addressed by Toyota. Oil standards have also improved.

This car has been super quiet without any issues for years.


My experience -

Even after using AutoRx and Mobil 1 exclusively with 3.5-5K change intervals since 2001, the valve train developed what I call a "ticking" during idle. Two times I've solved the tick with a round of AutoRx. After last round of AutoRx I switched to Maxlife 5w30. I probably started using it before Dexos 1 showed up on the bottle but not long before. It's been awhile but no more ticking at all. 3-5K intervals.


Cleanliness in 5w30 oil is the key with late '90s Camry V6. Maxlife was better than M1 a few years ago in that regard. At least during the Dexos 1 era.

So can we conclude M1 with Dexos 2 on the bottle is now better than Maxlife without it? I wouldn't go that far. In what way is it better? Cleanliness? Wear? All I can definitely say is M1 has less evaporation during NOAK test. Whatever that is good for. Maybe long drain intervals? 10K? I know Dexos 2 meets particular wear and cleanliness standards and that is likely good enough for well designed engines. If it isn't a round of AutoRx can solve my cleanliness issues.

IMHO - All we really have to go on without testing all time are standards on the bottle since formulations change without notice or acknowledgment. I welcome all verifiable opinions on what standard is better than Dexos 2 for wear AND cleanliness. SN is mostly a cleanliness standard. For many years oIl standards have trailed what we really need for car engines unleashed on us. Are they now where they need to be for the turbos and high output engines for sale? I hope so.


Oh yeah - almost forgot - I bought a used 2007 Honda Accord V4 for my daughter 4 years ago. After AutoRx treatment it quieted down very nicely. I don't know if it was the valve train or timing chain but it worked. I wonder if the previous owner was getting nervous with the slight clacking.