Got it and thank you.
Dusty Environment Question
- Thread starter CCI
- Start date
- Status
billt460, that for me is the most useful explanation yet -- I get it now. Thank you.
I took the case lube back, described what I was trying to accomplish to an older salesperson, and found some stuff that looks like grease but the instructions say disassemble, clean, apply sparingly, reassemble, cycle the action a few times, disassemble again, wipe all excess off, and reassemble.
Feels like a different firearm, the difference from the Rem Oil I've been using is quite noticeable. Really smooth, slick, no visible residue whatsoever. Very impressive thus far, we'll see how it is after we go to work.
I'm also going to try to solve the problem with a different holster, something that provides more protection. Because of the application I was using an Uncle Mike's kydex leg holster, while this is OK for urban work I discovered it isn't so great in severe service environments.
We're going to see how the Bianchi M12 holster works, my sense is that alone will help greatly. If I can safely limit the cleaning to once a week I will be happy.
Thank you for the advice and explanation.
I took the case lube back, described what I was trying to accomplish to an older salesperson, and found some stuff that looks like grease but the instructions say disassemble, clean, apply sparingly, reassemble, cycle the action a few times, disassemble again, wipe all excess off, and reassemble.
Feels like a different firearm, the difference from the Rem Oil I've been using is quite noticeable. Really smooth, slick, no visible residue whatsoever. Very impressive thus far, we'll see how it is after we go to work.
I'm also going to try to solve the problem with a different holster, something that provides more protection. Because of the application I was using an Uncle Mike's kydex leg holster, while this is OK for urban work I discovered it isn't so great in severe service environments.
We're going to see how the Bianchi M12 holster works, my sense is that alone will help greatly. If I can safely limit the cleaning to once a week I will be happy.
Thank you for the advice and explanation.
Originally Posted By: CCI
Thank you, I will give it a try.
Any thoughts on something to protect the bore from rust that won't pick up dirt?
If you are in a desert environment with really low humidity you probably don't need to be concerned with rust forming in the bore.
Thank you, I will give it a try.
Any thoughts on something to protect the bore from rust that won't pick up dirt?
If you are in a desert environment with really low humidity you probably don't need to be concerned with rust forming in the bore.
Originally Posted By: jjjxlr8
If you are in a desert environment with really low humidity you probably don't need to be concerned with rust forming in the bore.
True. However the biggest problem with guns and rust in the desert, isn't the low humidity of the desert itself. It's the fact many homes in the desert are cooled by evaporative cooling, (i.e. "Swamp Coolers"). This type of cooling, if not used correctly can raise indoor relative humidity to near tropical levels. Swamp coolers are responsible for more rusted firearms in desert environments than anything else.
A swamp cooler can only be effectively used when there is a very low dew point. Usually under 55 degrees. If they are used over that, indoor relative humidity can go sky high. Newer homes today are usually built with only A/C. But in some of the lower cost older homes, it can be the only type of cooling they have. However, many people add evaporative cooling because it is far more cost effective to run during the dry Spring and Summer months, until the Monsoon Season sets in. And with it higher dew point levels that if evaporative coolers are used in, will rust guns faster than a railroad track running through a rain forest.
If you are in a desert environment with really low humidity you probably don't need to be concerned with rust forming in the bore.
True. However the biggest problem with guns and rust in the desert, isn't the low humidity of the desert itself. It's the fact many homes in the desert are cooled by evaporative cooling, (i.e. "Swamp Coolers"). This type of cooling, if not used correctly can raise indoor relative humidity to near tropical levels. Swamp coolers are responsible for more rusted firearms in desert environments than anything else.
A swamp cooler can only be effectively used when there is a very low dew point. Usually under 55 degrees. If they are used over that, indoor relative humidity can go sky high. Newer homes today are usually built with only A/C. But in some of the lower cost older homes, it can be the only type of cooling they have. However, many people add evaporative cooling because it is far more cost effective to run during the dry Spring and Summer months, until the Monsoon Season sets in. And with it higher dew point levels that if evaporative coolers are used in, will rust guns faster than a railroad track running through a rain forest.
Originally Posted By: CCI
I took the case lube back, described what I was trying to accomplish to an older salesperson, and found some stuff that looks like grease but the instructions say disassemble, clean, apply sparingly, reassemble, cycle....
Ok. So you used remoil. No surprise at all that you had problems. It's the worst lube you can find on the market for a classic Sig. It literally dries up within days and leaves you with a lube free gun. Terrible stuff.
You didn't buy Froglube, did you? The "stuff that looks like grease". What did you buy?
Are you a cop? I've only seen leg holsters on K9 officers.
Look at this thread about lubricating Sig pistols properly. Most folks under lubricate.
http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/430601935/m/908103701
I took the case lube back, described what I was trying to accomplish to an older salesperson, and found some stuff that looks like grease but the instructions say disassemble, clean, apply sparingly, reassemble, cycle....
Ok. So you used remoil. No surprise at all that you had problems. It's the worst lube you can find on the market for a classic Sig. It literally dries up within days and leaves you with a lube free gun. Terrible stuff.
You didn't buy Froglube, did you? The "stuff that looks like grease". What did you buy?
Are you a cop? I've only seen leg holsters on K9 officers.
Look at this thread about lubricating Sig pistols properly. Most folks under lubricate.
http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/430601935/m/908103701
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Look at this thread about lubricating Sig pistols properly. Most folks under lubricate.
http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/430601935/m/908103701
This is basically that topic...
https://grayguns.com/lubrication-of-sig-sauer-pistol-rails/
He is mentioning lithium/moly grease on a (aluminium) rails.....???
So actually you dont need that fancy dancy "MIL" grade products on your firearm(s)
I am just curious why moly on an aluminium? Aint that prohibited in "your" world
Look at this thread about lubricating Sig pistols properly. Most folks under lubricate.
http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/430601935/m/908103701
This is basically that topic...
https://grayguns.com/lubrication-of-sig-sauer-pistol-rails/
He is mentioning lithium/moly grease on a (aluminium) rails.....???
So actually you dont need that fancy dancy "MIL" grade products on your firearm(s)
I am just curious why moly on an aluminium? Aint that prohibited in "your" world
Last edited:
Ok. So you used remoil. No surprise at all that you had problems. It's the worst lube you can find on the market for a classic Sig. It literally dries up within days and leaves you with a lube free gun. Terrible stuff.
Lesson learned. That was another recommendation from a gun shop counter person. Every day is a school day.
You didn't buy Froglube, did you? The "stuff that looks like grease". What did you buy?
It's called Pro-Gold. Doesn't seem to leave any visible residue once the excess is removed, everything feels much smoother and better. Seems to be great on the slide rails and outside of the barrel. We'll see how it does in the dust.
Used another made in USA oil called Zero Friction for all the smaller parts, and tighter spaces, and for rustproofing the bore.
I've only seen leg holsters on K9 officers.
Very observant. Let's just say one of the other reasons I'm not liking the Uncle Mike's holster is the leash hangs up on it.
Look at this thread about lubricating Sig pistols properly. Most folks under lubricate.
http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/430601935/m/908103701
Thank you for that link, really, seriously informative. Frankly, I did not know how to think about this, which is why I posted the question. This is a great community here with very knowledgeable people, and I appreciate the help. One of the things I learned from that link is that Lubriplate is supposed to work well also. Who'd have thunk it?
As it turns out, I have some of that stuff. Never occurred to me to use it on a firearm but it makes perfect sense. So that is what is going on the SIG before we go to the range next, we'll se how it goes. Looking forward to it.
Lesson learned. That was another recommendation from a gun shop counter person. Every day is a school day.
You didn't buy Froglube, did you? The "stuff that looks like grease". What did you buy?
It's called Pro-Gold. Doesn't seem to leave any visible residue once the excess is removed, everything feels much smoother and better. Seems to be great on the slide rails and outside of the barrel. We'll see how it does in the dust.
Used another made in USA oil called Zero Friction for all the smaller parts, and tighter spaces, and for rustproofing the bore.
I've only seen leg holsters on K9 officers.
Very observant. Let's just say one of the other reasons I'm not liking the Uncle Mike's holster is the leash hangs up on it.
Look at this thread about lubricating Sig pistols properly. Most folks under lubricate.
http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/430601935/m/908103701
Thank you for that link, really, seriously informative. Frankly, I did not know how to think about this, which is why I posted the question. This is a great community here with very knowledgeable people, and I appreciate the help. One of the things I learned from that link is that Lubriplate is supposed to work well also. Who'd have thunk it?
As it turns out, I have some of that stuff. Never occurred to me to use it on a firearm but it makes perfect sense. So that is what is going on the SIG before we go to the range next, we'll se how it goes. Looking forward to it.
Originally Posted By: CCI
It's called Pro-Gold.
MSDS if anyone is interested:
http://firearms.progoldmfr.com/download/msds/MFR-7_Aerosol_MSDS.pdf
It's called Pro-Gold.
MSDS if anyone is interested:
http://firearms.progoldmfr.com/download/msds/MFR-7_Aerosol_MSDS.pdf
Originally Posted By: CCI
It's called Pro-Gold. Doesn't seem to leave any visible residue once the excess is removed, everything feels much smoother and better. Seems to be great on the slide rails and outside of the barrel. We'll see how it does in the dust.
You should see lubrication on slide rails. Regardless of what type you are using. If you don't you most likely don't have enough applied. When you are shooting an auto pistol, you should be able to see oil oozing out from between the slide and the frame. If you don't, same thing. You most likely don't have enough. If you're using grease, then there should be some visible evidence of it on the rails at all times.
All these supposed, "Wipe On / Wipe Off", lubricants are not going to keep moving steel parts properly lubricated. That's one of the biggest fallacies of Frog Lube on a AR-15. It won't provide the proper lubrication. AR-15 rifles should be run visibly wet with lubricant at all times. Frog Lube won't allow you to achieve that type of application with their product. Because you can't use enough of it. At least according to their application methods. It's no different with slide / frame rails on auto pistols. Sig or any other brand. As was mentioned. Most people under lubricate their weapons. Or else they apply it where it isn't required, and don't where it is.
It's called Pro-Gold. Doesn't seem to leave any visible residue once the excess is removed, everything feels much smoother and better. Seems to be great on the slide rails and outside of the barrel. We'll see how it does in the dust.
You should see lubrication on slide rails. Regardless of what type you are using. If you don't you most likely don't have enough applied. When you are shooting an auto pistol, you should be able to see oil oozing out from between the slide and the frame. If you don't, same thing. You most likely don't have enough. If you're using grease, then there should be some visible evidence of it on the rails at all times.
All these supposed, "Wipe On / Wipe Off", lubricants are not going to keep moving steel parts properly lubricated. That's one of the biggest fallacies of Frog Lube on a AR-15. It won't provide the proper lubrication. AR-15 rifles should be run visibly wet with lubricant at all times. Frog Lube won't allow you to achieve that type of application with their product. Because you can't use enough of it. At least according to their application methods. It's no different with slide / frame rails on auto pistols. Sig or any other brand. As was mentioned. Most people under lubricate their weapons. Or else they apply it where it isn't required, and don't where it is.
Got it.
And I totally get it about the Rem Oil now. That explains some problems I was not understanding. It was acting like a lubrication problem, but hey, I just oiled it, so what's going on? Now I understand. No more Rem Oil. Maybe I will use the rest of it on locks or door hinges.
Before this weapon ever goes to the range or is fired for any training or other non-emergency purpose it will be disassembled, cleaned, and lubed appropriately per your description. Grease is good.
Really looking forward to seeing how the Lubri-Plate works.
What I've been looking for here, and thanks to you and other knowledgeable participants, I think I've got a workable solution, is a way to not completely make a mess out of this gun in severe service environments where I have no intention whatsoever of using it unless necessitated by circumstance, at which time it needs to work reliably, and preferably, most briefly. If that happens, I'm OK with the accelerated wear that may or may not be noticeable from less than two dozen rounds hopefully never, as long as the weapon functions reliably under those circumstances.
Where else could you learn about handgun maintenance, motorcycle oil changes, truck maintenance, tires, automotive lighting, and laugh this hard at some of the stories, all on one website?
Thanks, y'all.
And I totally get it about the Rem Oil now. That explains some problems I was not understanding. It was acting like a lubrication problem, but hey, I just oiled it, so what's going on? Now I understand. No more Rem Oil. Maybe I will use the rest of it on locks or door hinges.
Before this weapon ever goes to the range or is fired for any training or other non-emergency purpose it will be disassembled, cleaned, and lubed appropriately per your description. Grease is good.
What I've been looking for here, and thanks to you and other knowledgeable participants, I think I've got a workable solution, is a way to not completely make a mess out of this gun in severe service environments where I have no intention whatsoever of using it unless necessitated by circumstance, at which time it needs to work reliably, and preferably, most briefly. If that happens, I'm OK with the accelerated wear that may or may not be noticeable from less than two dozen rounds hopefully never, as long as the weapon functions reliably under those circumstances.
Where else could you learn about handgun maintenance, motorcycle oil changes, truck maintenance, tires, automotive lighting, and laugh this hard at some of the stories, all on one website?
Thanks, y'all.
Found another good solution to the severe service problem, might be useful for others.
Was using a kydex and nylon holster, nowhere near enough protection for the weapon, dirt in the muzzle, scratches, leash hung up on everything all the time. Too many edges and parts, just did not like it.
Went to the Bianchi M12 holster with the drop leg extender, choice of flap or thumb break, enclosed end, good padding, great protection for the weapon, have not had the leash hang up on it one time, works great under bad conditions. Appears to me that this was designed so you could crawl through mud and slide down a rock face and draw a clean and usable weapon. Some people might think this is a dinosaur of a holster but I really like it.
Was using a kydex and nylon holster, nowhere near enough protection for the weapon, dirt in the muzzle, scratches, leash hung up on everything all the time. Too many edges and parts, just did not like it.
Went to the Bianchi M12 holster with the drop leg extender, choice of flap or thumb break, enclosed end, good padding, great protection for the weapon, have not had the leash hang up on it one time, works great under bad conditions. Appears to me that this was designed so you could crawl through mud and slide down a rock face and draw a clean and usable weapon. Some people might think this is a dinosaur of a holster but I really like it.
G96 synthetic and run it shopping wet if it's a rifle. If it's a p220, milcomm tw25b, and wipe the exterior. It's the rails that need it.
- Status
Similar threads
