I've done both and the drain and fill is so much easier so that's what now do.
Drain and refill or Cooler line flush?
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Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Doing D & F's like you've done every 30k... there's just not much to "flush" out. You're doing everything right to get the most out of that tranny...ðŸ‘
+1
Doing D & F's like you've done every 30k... there's just not much to "flush" out. You're doing everything right to get the most out of that tranny...ðŸ‘
+1
I've been doing D&Fs on my 2002 Tacoma every 30K miles with Mobil 1 ATF since new. 17 years and 232K miles later and it still shifts perfectly. Keep doing what you're doing. I'm moving up to 50K mile intervals because the ATF looks perfect coming out after 30K at this point.
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My view is I don't put new filters in old fluid. Not the engine. Not the transmission. If I'm going to change the filter it's going to be installed with clean uncontaminated fluid. Dropping a transmission pan can be a fair amount of work on some. So if I'm going through the hassle why not do something that will last. I don't know the configuration of every vehicle but if they have an oil cooler return line at the radiator that's what I use to perform an exchange. Disconnect the pipe. Plug in my adaptive clear hose with either a Barb or nothing. Mark my drain pan 1qt less than the capacity of whatever the drain pan holds and start pumping.
Turn on the engine and use the transmission pump to pump transmission fluid into the marked drain pan. Watch the pan fill and when it hits the level I have marked turn engine off. Then add the same amount of new fluid back. Pumping and refilling until the fluid is clear. No running in between only start to pump fluid. There is no blending with this method.
If you plan on doing a filter swap don't refill on the last drain. Drop the pan while it's mostly empty. Put the new filter on close it up and finish filling. And there you go a new filter in new transmission fluid. It's going to last a lot longer because it's not trapping old clutch material right off the bat. Which would happen with a pan drop only. And now that I've done a full Exchange I can skip the filter swap next time and just do another exchange.
I've done this on any and all transmissions that are fully functional and not showing any signs of slippage. At any mileage. We can argue about clutch material. Weather removing it causes more slippage or (in my opinion) causes more wear leaving it but that's another discussion.
Turn on the engine and use the transmission pump to pump transmission fluid into the marked drain pan. Watch the pan fill and when it hits the level I have marked turn engine off. Then add the same amount of new fluid back. Pumping and refilling until the fluid is clear. No running in between only start to pump fluid. There is no blending with this method.
If you plan on doing a filter swap don't refill on the last drain. Drop the pan while it's mostly empty. Put the new filter on close it up and finish filling. And there you go a new filter in new transmission fluid. It's going to last a lot longer because it's not trapping old clutch material right off the bat. Which would happen with a pan drop only. And now that I've done a full Exchange I can skip the filter swap next time and just do another exchange.
I've done this on any and all transmissions that are fully functional and not showing any signs of slippage. At any mileage. We can argue about clutch material. Weather removing it causes more slippage or (in my opinion) causes more wear leaving it but that's another discussion.
A cooler line flush uses the least new ATF to get the highest % changed. More important on expensive ATF like Amsoil.
Fair-enough - but what of the fact that the line back from the cooler has its destination as a lube-point at SOME pressure, albeit low pressure. While the rtn line is off, directed into the bucket, said lube points are NOT lubricated. I can't abide by that!
Originally Posted by Cdn17Sport6MT
Fair-enough - but what of the fact that the line back from the cooler has its destination as a lube-point at SOME pressure, albeit low pressure. While the rtn line is off, directed into the bucket, said lube points are NOT lubricated. I can't abide by that!
What do you mean not lubricated??
Fair-enough - but what of the fact that the line back from the cooler has its destination as a lube-point at SOME pressure, albeit low pressure. While the rtn line is off, directed into the bucket, said lube points are NOT lubricated. I can't abide by that!
What do you mean not lubricated??
Originally Posted by Cdn17Sport6MT
Fair-enough - but what of the fact that the line back from the cooler has its destination as a lube-point at SOME pressure, albeit low pressure. While the rtn line is off, directed into the bucket, said lube points are NOT lubricated. I can't abide by that!
That makes no sense whatsoever, with a line off you are only diverting the returned fluid in another receptacle instead of the pan or case. Some manufacturers specify doing the return line off method in the FSM.
Units that have been serviced since new with regular drain and fills tend to have a lot less muck accumulated in the pan and less filter loading. I would drop the pan at some point and clean it and install a new filter but what the OP is doing is good.
Some units don't even have a pan and no serviceable filter (it has one that can be replaced once the unit is disassembled) so regular drain and fills do well with these so you don't have to go through a sometimes long and sometimes convoluted process to do a line off like this one..
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/09/full-14074-36527-2019_09_25_8_21_52.png "[Linked Image]")
Fair-enough - but what of the fact that the line back from the cooler has its destination as a lube-point at SOME pressure, albeit low pressure. While the rtn line is off, directed into the bucket, said lube points are NOT lubricated. I can't abide by that!
That makes no sense whatsoever, with a line off you are only diverting the returned fluid in another receptacle instead of the pan or case. Some manufacturers specify doing the return line off method in the FSM.
Units that have been serviced since new with regular drain and fills tend to have a lot less muck accumulated in the pan and less filter loading. I would drop the pan at some point and clean it and install a new filter but what the OP is doing is good.
Some units don't even have a pan and no serviceable filter (it has one that can be replaced once the unit is disassembled) so regular drain and fills do well with these so you don't have to go through a sometimes long and sometimes convoluted process to do a line off like this one..
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