Does one need a Euro-speced oil?

Shel_B

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Is European oil really necessary in your European car? Let me explain the question. Take Porsche, for example. They have various specs for their engines, and many of us have seen the video of how an oil is tested by Porsche. The engine is run hard at various angles and the headers are glowing red. But does the engine need a Porsche-speced oil if it's never used in that manner, perhaps only for cruising lazily along the highway or commuting?

I think for some engines the oil has to meet a spec for long drain intervals, but what if you never do a long drain?

In other words, if your engine is never used to the extremes some oils are designed for, can you get by comfortably and safely with a lower-speced oil, like a straight API rated oil?
 
Is European oil really necessary in your European car? Let me explain the question. Take Porsche, for example. They have various specs for their engines, and many of us have seen the video of how an oil is tested by Porsche. The engine is run hard at various angles and the headers are glowing red. But does the engine need a Porsche-speced oil if it's never used in that manner, perhaps only for cruising lazily along the highway or commuting?

I think for some engines the oil has to meet a spec for long drain intervals, but what if you never do a long drain?

In other words, if your engine is never used to the extremes some oils are designed for, can you get by comfortably and safely with a lower-speced oil, like a straight API rated oil?


Of course you can but by what metric would you use to determine if you can comfortably and safely get by? The purpose behind oil certs is to remove the guesswork from the purchase decision.

I don't think API oils are of lesser quality, they just meet a standardized battery of tests and formulation requirements which may or may not also be relevant to the euro automaker.
 
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Is European oil really necessary in your European car? Let me explain the question. Take Porsche, for example. They have various specs for their engines, and many of us have seen the video of how an oil is tested by Porsche. The engine is run hard at various angles and the headers are glowing red. But does the engine need a Porsche-speced oil if it's never used in that manner, perhaps only for cruising lazily along the highway or commuting?

I think for some engines the oil has to meet a spec for long drain intervals, but what if you never do a long drain?

In other words, if your engine is never used to the extremes some oils are designed for, can you get by comfortably and safely with a lower-speced oil, like a straight API rated oil?

Do you have a European Car?
The Euro speced Oils are beneficial even under normal driving.
 
A well designed oil like a40 and c40 is able to protect at a lower viscosity as if it were a higher viscosity while doing better in longer intervals. I bet i could take a Porsche engine to the same length before failure with 20w-50 along with an engine that ran a40 5w-40 spec oil but i would have to be changing that oil out at by the time the olm hits 40% instead of 10% and getting worse fuel mileage during the whole life of the vehicle which will amount to something by then so it's a bad deal in that regard.

You can get by with SP oils. Some people have this belief that if you use an SP rated oil instead of a euro grade it'll wear out fast. A grade or two thicker and changed more frequently won't let that happen. But that's not a better alternative. In fact i would say that euro oils do better even under normal driving. Better economy and less maintenance equals more cost effective ownership and less stress so you can enjoy the expensive car and life more.
 
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Is European oil really necessary in your European car? Let me explain the question. Take Porsche, for example. They have various specs for their engines, and many of us have seen the video of how an oil is tested by Porsche. The engine is run hard at various angles and the headers are glowing red. But does the engine need a Porsche-speced oil if it's never used in that manner, perhaps only for cruising lazily along the highway or commuting?

I think for some engines the oil has to meet a spec for long drain intervals, but what if you never do a long drain?

In other words, if your engine is never used to the extremes some oils are designed for, can you get by comfortably and safely with a lower-speced oil, like a straight API rated oil?
Euro approvals are created precisely for those questions.
But here is an example:
The engine in my BMW runs very cold on track. The coolant temperature on track is actually around 170-180 degrees. The electric pump goes into the highest effectiveness mode to cool off the engine as DME notices that I am pushing the car hard.
On the other hand, when I am cruising 80mph on the HWY coolant temperature is 235-240f. With that oil temperature goes up too. Why? To improve efficiency. So, just because I am cruising, does not mean oil will be on the cooler side or engine.
You should see N52 (engine I have in BMW) after 150k using ILSAC oils. You can peel off deposits and use them as charcoal.
 
Do you have a European Car?
The Euro speced Oils are beneficial even under normal driving.
You've touched on the other side of the coin: why not run Euro-speced oil in Japanese and American cars, and those using API oils? I've been thinking of doing just that in the Camry when I use up my current stash.
 
You've touched on the other side of the coin: why not run Euro-speced oil in Japanese and American cars, and those using API oils? I've been thinking of doing just that in the Camry when I use up my current stash.
I was running Mobil1 0W40 in a Toyota Sienna, as well as an ILSAC 5W30.
However, the question is the design of the engine and utilization. 2GR-FE in Sienna was running super cool, actually, it was a problem in winter even though it was garaged and had a block heater. European engines generally run like an oven. That is just one of parameters.
Then mpg. Lower HTHS, lower consumption.
 
The newer Euro specs(ACEA Cx, A5/B5) align with API SN/SP specs and the new Euro OE “low viscosity” specs align mostly with them. Euro engines are power-dense and see more high-speed driving on the motorway in theory. That said, if I have a Euro car, I’ll run Euro oil but you could use an HDEO in some cases(if it uses 5W-30/40 or says 15W-40 is OK) - HDEOs have the NOACK/HTHS Euro engines like.

I’m running Euro oil in a Subaru Ascent - M1 ESP 0W-30. It’ll see Euro oils for as long as I touch it.
 
There was a reply on this website from a member some years back that said something to the affect of are VW's that fragile and need a special oil to hold up? Europe has 746 million people while North America has 579 million. They have their auto industry, testing and standards while we have ours.
 
You've touched on the other side of the coin: why not run Euro-speced oil in Japanese and American cars, and those using API oils? I've been thinking of doing just that in the Camry when I use up my current stash.
I am running a Euro-speced oil in an American car, and all is well so far. I cannot prove my thoughts or observations, but I do like the HTHS Number of this European oil that I am using. I am now addicted to the HTHS Number, but in reality, I would need to take the other oil I was using and compare it to the Euro Oil, but not your ordinary VOA of both oils.

I would need a more comprehensive test that would be very expensive to decipher the Base Oils and other components that do not show up in a normal VOA.

My hunch now is the Euro Spec is the Leader in Specs, then again it could be the HTHS of these oils.
 
You can get by with SP oils. Some people have this belief that if you use an SP rated oil instead of a euro grade it'll wear out fast. A grade or two thicker and changed more frequently won't let that happen. But that's not a better alternative. In fact i would say that euro oils do better even under normal driving. Better economy and less maintenance equals more cost effective ownership and less stress so you can enjoy the expensive car and life more.
I think it's more of the concern regarding the reduced levels of phosphorous found in ILSAC-only oils. M1 FS 0W-40 for example, is now API SP, but it's also A40, 229.5 and LL-01. If it was an xW-30, it would have to be API SL due to the phosphorous restrictions on the xW-30 and below grades. Even the C3 oils have higher levels of phosphorous than their API siblings.
 
I run euro spec in everything I own, including a Mercedes 400hp C43 and a 640HP C63s......euro oils meet tougher specs
 
If I owned a VW (or BMW or Mercedes) I'd certainly run a Euro spec'd oil for reasons already stated...ie: same cost at WM etc...The only exception would be if I had a VW 2.slow or 2.5 5 cylinder because they aren't highly stressed engines like a 1.8T or 2.0T and would probably do fine on ILSAC oils of the proper viscosity.
 
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