Does new battery improve driving performance?

[tlmprnpg]

My battery was dead this weekend, so I got the new one. This is the first time I change it since I owned this car in 5 years.

Today when I drove on highway, I noticed some different. I could reach the 80 mph easily. Normally my car (Toyota collora'97 auto) had difficult time get over 75 mph. I alway blame the 3 speed transmission for such a limit.

Can any one explain whether they are related with the new battery? If it's related, it's shame

that I should have changed the battery long time ago.

 

[tlmprnpg]

just to add. The battery I got from O'Reilly - super start/extreme only $50. 2yr free replacement. But it's smaller than the old one but it's for my car model. I might go back to exchange for the bigger one.

 

[55Test]

Hmm...I suppose if the battery was bad and needed charging from the alternator all the time, then that would suck a few hp off the engine.

 

[The Critic]

It's possible that insufficient voltage will cause transmission shifting difficulties...but that's usually solved by putting in a new alternator.

 

[surfstar]

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But it's smaller than the old one but it's for my car model. I might go back to exchange for the bigger one.

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The weight savings from the smaller battery combined with a 3spd auto and a tiny 4banger = faster car

 

[wander2039]

How were the terminals? Corroded etc? If you have a poor ground or vice-versa you'd probably see a performance difference with the new battery.

 

[PandaBear]

If you were able to start your car with the old battery, it would not be draining enough juice to notice a difference. You wouldn't notice a different with your head lights on, would you? One possiblility is the battery reduced the voltage enough to cause some additional misfire, or the process of replacing the battery reset the ECU and it help clearing some poor calibration due to misfire/pinging.

 

[alreadygone]

My guess would be reset ecu. Computer now learning how you drive again (give 'er hades!!)

Bob

 

[Oil stain]

I agree with Alreadygone, that the computer was reset and is re-learning.

 

[WalterMitty]

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I agree with Alreadygone, that the computer was reset and is re-learning.

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+1. It's known around here as the Poor Man's Tune Up. Unhook the battery anytime you do maintenance (even when rotating tires

) and reset the computers. Everything will then relearn to current weather, gas, etc.

 

[eljefino]

Incidentally the 3 speed auto in those cars is entirely mechanical, except maybe the lockup torque convertor.

They do rev high on the highway but should have enough power to reach engine redline, which'll be at or above 100mph.

Might need a general tune-up including new air and fuel filters etc. Could be running a default rich from the ECM reset... but your car will relearn and could become doggy again.

 

[Gary Allan]

I've got to add this in here. My mother's Corsica had a hesitation from a standing stop. It always had it (she bought it used). I just assumed that it was another boring side effect type thing with a low end GM product (1989 2.0) I did some exhaust work and for the heck of it charged the battery while it was sitting there. No hesitation. It returned within a few days.

Bottom line was that it was a belt tensioner that had been bad for a very long time. The battery(ies) just were perpetually in a lower charge state driving the alternator to have heavier then normal drag which caused the hesitation just off idle (where the engine has barely enough power to stay running). It was masked by her 20+ mile commute which put back just enough on a daily basis.

 

[tlmprnpg]

I had changed plug, air filter, fuel filter, ATF in the past 7k miles. Eljefino is right, I cannot do the 80mph anymore. It just had a good drive for 3 days. I might have to take off the battery sometime and drive aggressively for a week to make the ECM learn it.

Gary Allan - I migth try to change the belt tensioner in next 15K when the timing belt is due. I don't think it has been changed before (now 110k). Would it cost me $$$?

 

[Gary Allan]

I dunno if you have one

It would be the same if your belt was glazed or just loose enough not to get the full output of the alt. I see you have an idler pulley

My only point, at least mainly, was to support the notion that a new battery can give you a perceived performance increase ....since I experienced it.

 

[TallPaul]

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I agree with Alreadygone, that the computer was reset and is re-learning.

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+1. It's known around here as the Poor Man's Tune Up. Unhook the battery anytime you do maintenance (even when rotating tires

) and reset the computers. Everything will then relearn to current weather, gas, etc.

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Wouldn't the vehicle run poorly while the computer is "re-learning"? And doesn't the computer make running adjustments for current conditions? I recall with my F150 when I hooked a 2000 lb trailer to it and headed west, it ran poorly for about the first several hundred miles, then ran much better. I figure the computer was making adjustment to the load.

Anyway, there is a mechanic radio show here that advocates replacing the battery every 3 to 4 years whether it seems to need it or not. I think their reasoning is why get caught someday with a no start. But there may be other reasons. I suppose it could put more strain on the electrical components it the battery is weak. Anyway, a pertinent question for me as my battery eight years old as of last month, but seems fine. The only symptom I can notice is that in very hot weather (maybe 70 plus) the truck will not want to fire up. It cranks fine, but has to crank maybe twice as long before it fires over. I have always suspected a fuel system problem, such as pressure bleed down over long sitting time, but why not in colder weather too? Could the battery do this in warm weather, that is be good cranking, but maybe sucking so much power there is little left to fire the ignition?

Bewildered,

 

[Quest]

LOL!

A battery is only responsible primarily to turning over the starter, with whatever remains go to the ignition (in EFI engines, also the ECU and stuff) to fire up the engine. Once the engine catches on fire and runs on itself, the battery's primary responsbilities is done and the generator takes over from that point onwards, supplying power for the rest of the car + recharging the battery.

You will only need a new battery if your charging/storage functionality is somewhat compromised (e.g. alternator is overcharging/undercharging/overloaded, battery isn't holding a charge properly, etc.).Many a times, when a generator failed to charge a battery, people pursue a new replacement battery right away (car owners tend to blame the battery for being the weakest link), only to realise that 4 hrs down the road their newly purchased battery died again.

Tallpaul-

Unless you have a car that the total electrical load far exceeds the max. current the generator is capable of putting out (which may load down the battery quite a bit even during normal operation), otherwise, it shouldn't matter whether you pursue a new battery or not.

automotive ignition design already factored in all the loads, voltage drops, etc. during initial cranking so that a car should be able to fire up nicely. Electronic ignition is quite tolerant over a very wide voltage operational range (from roughly 7~8VDC all the way up to a 16VDC, some with up to 25VDC surge!). This is also applicable to ECU as well. When you crank your engine, the battery banks drop down to roughly 9VDC (when battery is brand-spanking new). Electronic ignition module can take on such beating and yet be able to provide reliable, strong, fat sparks to ignite the combustable mixture.

Back in the old ignition point+ coil+ carburettor days, all ignition configuration comes with a drop down resistor and when you crank your car, the ignition switch actually bypasses the ignition system to a direct draw from the battery (around 8.8VDC)due to starter load, and soon after the mission is complete and your engine starting to run by itself, it goes back to the resistor to continue accepting the power from the battery at a reduced voltage (around 8.8VDC, as opposed to 12VDC), and life goes on. In other words: ignition system in the good ole days always run on about 8.8VDC even when you have a 12V electrical system (12V battery banks) in your car.

 

[Silver]

unhook the O2's

 

[TallPaul]

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Many a times, when a generator failed to charge a battery, people pursue a new replacement battery right away (car owners tend to blame the battery for being the weakest link), only to realise that 4 hrs down the road their newly purchased battery died again.

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Yep, I learned that one the hard way last spring with the motorhome.

Thanks for all the other battery and starting info. Guess my best bet is to go to Autozone and have them run their tester on the battery and charging system and not just plop a new battery in.

 

[ewetho]

Could be poor mans tune up but #@$%! cars are very battery susceptible. You find cars that seem to work nothing you can put your finger on but don;t run well. They need a battery. Stupid but not unheard of in #@$%! cars.

 

[Quest]

LOL ewetho!

Yeah, used to be a new battery may cure a !#@!@ car (poor man's tuneup?:! been there, done that!), like worn spark plugs+ points, sticky auto choke in the cold fall morning, etc. Heck! What cannot be done with a fresh new battery?

Too bad you can't say that to modern EFI cars for if the electronics or the ignition are bad, fresh battery wouldn't save the day.

Speaking about EFI cars do you know thatmy new FIT comes with an even smaller battery? I know people squeaked when they saw the battery typically came inside a Honda Civic! With only roughtly 400CCA, that thing is only 2/3 of that of any typical domestic car's battery pack. Now, my Honda Fit comes with even smaller battery pack! It's literally the size of a lawn mower battery! Good news is that it's made by Yuasa Japan; the not-so-good news is, I wonder if it's gonna last for 6 yrs?