Do you use oil additives or friction modifiers in your engine?

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

Originally Posted by tig1
No, since I have used M1 oils for the last 41 years and have no need for additives.
Same here. Started using Mobil I in 1978. No need for additional additives.

 

[dailydriver]

The Lubegard Bio Tech, and the HyperLube ZRA are the ONLY ones I will use/consider now, for use in this car's EcoBoost.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted by Yah-Tah-Hey
Originally Posted by tig1
No, since I have used M1 oils for the last 41 years and have no need for additives.
Same here. Started using Mobil I in 1978. No need for additional additives.

Me to. Started using M1 5-20 in early March 1978. $5 per qt.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Archoil 9100 with redline 0w20. Using for the solid boundary lubrication.

 

[DR1]

Originally Posted by dailydriver
The Lubegard Bio Tech, and the HyperLube ZRA are the ONLY ones I will use/consider now, for use in this car's EcoBoost.

Why are you using HyperLube ZRA (extra zinc ) ?

 

[StevieC]

Just a good oil that's all you need. Most off the shelf are "good oils". No additives needed. Long gone are the days that supplements should be added to fix lacking chemistry.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted by lawnguy
Originally Posted by dailydriver
The Lubegard Bio Tech, and the HyperLube ZRA are the ONLY ones I will use/consider now, for use in this car's EcoBoost.

Why are you using HyperLube ZRA (extra zinc ) ?


The ZRA stands for Zinc Replacement Additive, and it is a complex ester blend/Ket Jenlube compound with absolutely NO ZDDP/zinc in it whatsoever.

I would only use this in the summer to give a little added shear protection/lubricity to whatever oil I am using to protect the turbo's bearings/shaft in the heat.

 

[Garak]

The last one I used was the Comp Cams break in lube as directed when the F-150's 300 was rebuilt.

 

[gfh77665]

Regardless how good conventional and synthetic oils are today, engine wear still happens. As most engines get to 200K miles or so, compression starts to decrease. Thats why I use Restore. It absolutely increases and evens out compression. I start using Restore every 20K, then later at 10K intervals when the engine approaches 300K.

 

[Surestick]

Liquimoly MoS2 additive in my VW PD TDI in the hopes of keeping the cam wear down to a minimum.

 

[Jetsfan421]

After searching this site and my own thread I've decided to use a weak dose of lubegard biotech. Currently running at 1oz per qt ratio in conventional pyb. Current oils are far superior than the sludge juice of the past. At that weak of a dose its hard to imagine it destroying seals, while also getting some additional cleaning properties.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by Jetsfan421
After searching this site and my own thread I've decided to use a weak dose of lubegard biotech. Currently running at 1oz per qt ratio in conventional pyb. Current oils are far superior than the sludge juice of the past. At that weak of a dose its hard to imagine it destroying seals, while also getting some additional cleaning properties.

I never read or heard of it destroying seals at the recommended dose of 3 ounces/qt of oil either.

I'd be interested in your observations with the low dose you're running.

 

[Jetsfan421]

Seems to run pretty smoothly and have observed some reduced varnish in oil fill hole and dipstick. Price per oci is only around $3-4 extra if that. No ill effects observed.

 

[dailydriver]

Are we sure that the types of esters used in Bio Tech are the seal swelling/effecting variety anyway??

 

[littleant]

LG Biotech for me as well.

 

[Jetsfan421]

Originally Posted by dailydriver
Are we sure that the types of esters used in Bio Tech are the seal swelling/effecting variety anyway??

Not entirely sure. Thought the rewards outweighed the risks.

 

[PimTac]

Originally Posted by Jetsfan421
Originally Posted by dailydriver
Are we sure that the types of esters used in Bio Tech are the seal swelling/effecting variety anyway??

Not entirely sure. Thought the rewards outweighed the risks.




Liquid wax esters. I'll let you be the guinea pig.

 

[dave1251]

No and there is nothing proving any extra additives do anything but empty your wallet.

 

[caprice_2nv]

I did used to add gm Eos or some other zddp additive to my oil unless I used an expensive oil that I knew had extra zddp in it already. Now I'm not so worried anymore, even though there is a small possibility I'm wrong and I will wipe out a camshaft on my 83 Chevy Caprice 305 or the 76 Oldsmobile 350. There really is nothing proving that I'm okay without the boosted zddp or proving that I don't need the additives. I'm basing my decision on the fact that the valve springs are likely worn out from the high mileage and putting no real pressure on the cam and lifters anymore.

I would rather use an oil as it was formulated, I only used additives because it was cheaper than 5qts of amsoils classic car formulas or royal purple xpr..... nothing over the counter with extra zddp except 5w50 oils that seem to cause more valve train noise in my Oldsmobile.

 

[gfh77665]

Originally Posted by dave1251
No and there is nothing proving any extra additives do anything but empty your wallet.



Better check Restore. They were so confident in their product they used to give away a compression gauge free so users could see for themselves.

From the Restore thread:

Originally Posted by gfh77665
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
I've tested this stuff on shop engines. We had one dog that was 131-145 psi. It's 194-206 psi now.


BOOM!

Thanks for posting that!