Detroit Diesel 2 stroke straight weight VS multi
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Detroit_Diesel_Series_92
this version is better lol(i had written a wall of text)this engine had a tendancy to make a specific wistling sound at time.officially they were rated for max of 2100 but it wasnt rare to meet someone going way higher rpm (probably why some were so leaky)
my advice? start from induction (temperature and electricity)make sure everything is isolated and 1 inch away from anything .yep this means no steel clamp for wiring
there are so many bland of high temperature zip tie model and high temprature tape avail now that once you tackled the induction potentiality problem . you should have a very different sounding engine . also ground everything to the frame not the battery . if something doesnt work in this fashion tackle it last (if possible) lastly make sure to protect everything that is sending data in some way (sensor etc),again for induction problem potentiality)protect every ground on the frame so it nothing can do anything to it. done in this fashion , you should diminish a lot of issue.ps battery has to have 1 positive and one negative and they have to be have their born has far away from each other
this version is better lol(i had written a wall of text)this engine had a tendancy to make a specific wistling sound at time.officially they were rated for max of 2100 but it wasnt rare to meet someone going way higher rpm (probably why some were so leaky)
my advice? start from induction (temperature and electricity)make sure everything is isolated and 1 inch away from anything .yep this means no steel clamp for wiring
there are so many bland of high temperature zip tie model and high temprature tape avail now that once you tackled the induction potentiality problem . you should have a very different sounding engine . also ground everything to the frame not the battery . if something doesnt work in this fashion tackle it last (if possible) lastly make sure to protect everything that is sending data in some way (sensor etc),again for induction problem potentiality)protect every ground on the frame so it nothing can do anything to it. done in this fashion , you should diminish a lot of issue.ps battery has to have 1 positive and one negative and they have to be have their born has far away from each other
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Originally Posted By: yvon_la
but it wasnt rare to meet someone going way higher rpm (probably why some were so leaky)
Its my understanding that they 'leak' because the crankcases always run significantly pressurized (I've heard some of the big EMDs can run 50psi), either by a Roots blower, or a turbocharger. Forced induction/scavenging not being optional on a 2 stroke.
Contrast such with a 4 stroke engine, for which only the intake would be pressurized by a forced induction system if one were (optionally) installed.
but it wasnt rare to meet someone going way higher rpm (probably why some were so leaky)
Its my understanding that they 'leak' because the crankcases always run significantly pressurized (I've heard some of the big EMDs can run 50psi), either by a Roots blower, or a turbocharger. Forced induction/scavenging not being optional on a 2 stroke.
Contrast such with a 4 stroke engine, for which only the intake would be pressurized by a forced induction system if one were (optionally) installed.
Anyone have a link to this publication:
NOTE: For 2-cycle and all Off-Highway engine lubricating oil, fuel, and coolant requirements, refer to MTU Technical Publication, Fluids and Lubricants, Specification Bulletin, A001061/35E (or most recent). This bulletin is available from authorized MTU distributors.
NOTE: For 2-cycle and all Off-Highway engine lubricating oil, fuel, and coolant requirements, refer to MTU Technical Publication, Fluids and Lubricants, Specification Bulletin, A001061/35E (or most recent). This bulletin is available from authorized MTU distributors.
OK, thanks
Straight from the MTU Manual:
For all 2-stroke 53/71/92 Series:
Start failures may occur at ambient temperatures < 0 °C when the engine is operated with SAE grade 40 oils.
If no start aids are available, oils of SAE grade 30 may be used as a short-term solution. At lower temperatures (-18 to -32 °C) oils of SAE grade 15W-40 may also be used. These oils must, however, comply with the specification API CF-2 and have a high-temperature viscosity of min. 3.7 cP at 150 °C.
The oil grade must be changed back to SAE 40 as soon as the temperatures allow to do so.
Well, that sort of sums it all up
Straight from the MTU Manual:
For all 2-stroke 53/71/92 Series:
Start failures may occur at ambient temperatures < 0 °C when the engine is operated with SAE grade 40 oils.
If no start aids are available, oils of SAE grade 30 may be used as a short-term solution. At lower temperatures (-18 to -32 °C) oils of SAE grade 15W-40 may also be used. These oils must, however, comply with the specification API CF-2 and have a high-temperature viscosity of min. 3.7 cP at 150 °C.
The oil grade must be changed back to SAE 40 as soon as the temperatures allow to do so.
Well, that sort of sums it all up
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Originally Posted By: A310
I've had this Detroit 4-53T now for 6 years and is patiently waiting to go into a Ford Excursion next year
Here's a video of the engine running with Jakes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhM0563drn8
I'm so jealous. I've been looking for a set of reasonably priced jakes and a tall perimeter bolt valve cover for my 4-53T for ages, at least 4 years.
I've had this Detroit 4-53T now for 6 years and is patiently waiting to go into a Ford Excursion next year
Here's a video of the engine running with Jakes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhM0563drn8
I'm so jealous. I've been looking for a set of reasonably priced jakes and a tall perimeter bolt valve cover for my 4-53T for ages, at least 4 years.
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
Originally Posted By: A310
I've had this Detroit 4-53T now for 6 years and is patiently waiting to go into a Ford Excursion next year Here's a video of the engine running with Jakes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhM0563drn8
I'm so jealous. I've been looking for a set of reasonably priced jakes and a tall perimeter bolt valve cover for my 4-53T for ages, at least 4 years.
Took 8 months of searching to find those Jakes and had to hand make the tall valve cover by hand as could not find an oem riser.
Originally Posted By: A310
I've had this Detroit 4-53T now for 6 years and is patiently waiting to go into a Ford Excursion next year
Here's a video of the engine running with Jakes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhM0563drn8
I'm so jealous. I've been looking for a set of reasonably priced jakes and a tall perimeter bolt valve cover for my 4-53T for ages, at least 4 years.
Took 8 months of searching to find those Jakes and had to hand make the tall valve cover by hand as could not find an oem riser.
A310, beautiful work on the tall valve cover. If you come across another set of Jakes let me know, what injectors are you running? Mine has 9A90's in it currently, no fuel modulator either so it smokes pretty good till it spools the turbo if you roll into it too quickly. Beautiful 4-53T you have there.
We still had 2 6V92's and 2 8V92's when I retired a couple years ago, this was all we ever fed them https://www.mobil.com/en/industrial/lubricants/products/mobil-delvac-1230
Probably the least expensive per hour motors we had in the fleet (if you didn't count fuel consumption)
Probably the least expensive per hour motors we had in the fleet (if you didn't count fuel consumption)
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