Current top 0w-20’s?

I have had 5 3.6 pentastar engines and have never had an oil related issue..change at 3-5000 miles and use mopar filters and I used PUP 5w20 and the more recent ones PUP 0W20....I don't expect any issues...heck you could probably use a mix of butter and corn oil and if you changed it enough be ok...My good buddy worked for Mobil1 for many years and he said your engine actually does not care what oil you use.......
No, fuel thins the oil. See here, if I didn't use Mobil 1 AFE 0w30 I would be in trouble. This is my favorite oil now. I will do 2,500 mile OCI with it.

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I have had 5 3.6 pentastar engines and have never had an oil related issue..change at 3-5000 miles and use mopar filters and I used PUP 5w20 and the more recent ones PUP 0W20....I don't expect any issues...heck you could probably use a mix of butter and corn oil and if you changed it enough be ok...My good buddy worked for Mobil1 for many years and he said your engine actually does not care what oil you use.......
Pack it in boys and girls. You heard it here from his good buddy. Your engine doesn't care. Can shut the forums down.
 
Pack it in boys and girls. You heard it here from his good buddy. Your engine doesn't care. Can shut the forums down.
Lol
I kinda do get the idea though, now the oil tech is so good that wear that is preventable with oil is not a limiting factor. That being said, now that oil grade is being pushed down further and further, i think oil quality might be becoming important again.
 
Pack it in boys and girls. You heard it here from his good buddy. Your engine doesn't care. Can shut the forums down.
hopefully you got the satire.....I could have used amsoil, Pennzoil etc but mobil1 popped into my brain....:)
 
Yeah, you have a point. Okay tell me as if you're talking to a 7-year-old, how does expensive oil resist fuel dilution?

What type of oil used can't affect how much fuel dilution there is. You made a false conclusion here.
Just pointing out the facts. You are right that the type of oil won't affect how much fuel dilution there is (the engine and driving habits do) but a higher quality oil (Amsoil) resisted the effects of fuel dilution far better than M1 AFE did. Higher dilution and twice the mileage, and it stayed in grade.
 
Just pointing out the facts. You are right that the type of oil won't affect how much fuel dilution there is (the engine and driving habits do) but a higher quality oil (Amsoil) resisted the effects of fuel dilution far better than M1 AFE did. Higher dilution and twice the mileage, and it stayed in grade.
Okay suppose you did a lot of short tripping and idling and you accumulated 3% of fuel in the oil. But then afterwards you did a cross country road trip, will that 3% fuel go away? If yes, then how does fuel go away? I know how water goes away because it gets boiled off
 
Okay suppose you did a lot of short tripping and idling and you accumulated 3% of fuel in the oil. But then afterwards you did a cross country road trip, will that 3% fuel go away? If yes, then how does fuel go away? I know how water goes away because it gets boiled off
Some of the fuel goes away, but not all of it. Not all of the products of fuel combustion burn off.
 
Some of the fuel goes away, but not all of it. Not all of the products of fuel combustion burn off.
Now you are getting closer. "Fuel dilution" is not just: "I mixed 1-2-3%+ of some pump gas with some nice pretty oil."

It's all kinds of nasty partially burned hydrocarbons, oxidation by products, nitrates - that are particularly hard on VI's - and other related viscometric enhancing additives in the oil. Better oils don't need as much of these things if they are made with good base oils to begin with (don't get all wrapped around this part naming or caring) as the main point remains: The more of your oil is OIL the better it will deal with "fuel dilution" and have less chance of mechanical shearing.
 
Now you are getting closer. "Fuel dilution" is not just: "I mixed 1-2-3%+ of some pump gas with some nice pretty oil."

It's all kinds of nasty partially burned hydrocarbons, oxidation by products, nitrates - that are particularly hard on VI's - and other related viscometric enhancing additives in the oil. Better oils don't need as much of these things if they are made with good base oils to begin with (don't get all wrapped around this part naming or caring) as the main point remains: The more of your oil is OIL the better it will deal with "fuel dilution" and have less chance of mechanical shearing.
5w30 should handle fuel better than 0W-30, right?
 
5w30 should handle fuel better than 0W-30, right?
I think this has to do with the starting quality of the oil. In general, a tighter spread will mean fewer VIIs and other "non-oil" things in your oil. However, for lower tier oils (just API spec oils) it usually means a cheaper base oil. So for non-boutiques, a 0W is a good idea because it forces the oil maker to use a higher quality base oil. This is well-explained by @edyvw here and @RDY4WAR here. That is just my understanding from reading a lot here though. I'm not an expert, but from what I have taken away here, if not buying Amsoil, HPL, or Redline, get the 0W. If buying a high end oil, just pick the one with the highest W rating your climate will allow.
 
I think this has to do with the starting quality of the oil. In general, a tighter spread will mean fewer VIIs and other "non-oil" things in your oil. However, for lower tier oils (just API spec oils) it usually means a cheaper base oil. So for non-boutiques, a 0W is a good idea because it forces the oil maker to use a higher quality base oil. This is well-explained by @edyvw here and @RDY4WAR here. That is just my understanding from reading a lot here though. I'm not an expert.
PUP 5w30 or AFE 0W-30; which one will be better for my Jeep?
 
PUP 5w30 or AFE 0W-30; which one will be better for my Jeep?
Personally I would not consider either one. You can buy oils that meet much more stringent approvals for cheaper. I think PUP is mostly marketing. It just has API approval. I would look at a Amsoil personally if I owned a Jeep. Not my first choice for a vehicle, but if you're comfortable eating the crazy Jeep depreciation, the low MPG, paying for all the stuff that will break on it, and the tires, then I wouldn't pinch pennies on the oil, and just use Amsoil. If not, then I would use M1 ESP 0w30 or Quaker State Euro 5W-40 which is $23 at Walmart (without a sale).
 
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