Current top 0w-20’s?

[Gladiator007]

My JL Wrangler with that engine has had 105k miles with probably 20 of its 22 oil changes on Mobil 1 EP 0w20. It seems to love it and I will continue with it.

But there are many good ow20's and this engine is easy on them. You can worry about the cam failures or whatever while that engine winds up giving you 500,000 miles of service, especially if you shut off the ESS. I wouldn't personally lose any sleep over it.

Do you close your eyes when oil temperature gets to 230 degrees driving around town on 0w20?

 

[tired]

1) I drive a lot of stop-and-go.

2) I examine the condition of the oil on the dipstick.

^^Not perfect diagnostics, but more than just milage.

I get what you're saying. Short of lab testing my oil at every fill up, I'm working within a broad range. What I'm doing may be wasteful and unnecessary. But, you know, there's oil condition, additive condition, oil contamination, fuel dilution . . . lots of things that I'm hedging against.

Maintenance Minder? The app. is written to assure owners that they don't have to spend money, isn't it? My car says don't worry about valve adjustments until 100,000 mi. There used to be a BMW or Mercedes that said, "Your oil is good for 100,000 mi." Because this is what people want to hear.

What vehicle do you drive?

 

[MuzzleFlash40]

Your Ram has the 3.6?

No it has the 5.7, the Wife’s Jeep GC has the 3.6. Both call for 20 weights from the factory. I switched hers over to 0w-30 and the Ram to 5w30.

 

[altaylar]

You've been here 10 years, and still believe there is a "best" oil? Hmmmmmm ....

Here's a peek into reality. There are many good oils. There are some even better oils. And there's a small smattering of great oils. But none of them are "best".

That's because "best" is only applicable to a specific circumstantial application unique to your application. And you'd only be able to define "best" after massive investments of time and money, so whittle down to one "best" lubricant.

Suffice to say that any API licensed lube meeting/exceeding the OE spec(s) is good enough for the 3.6L engine. It's not particularly sensitive to oil brands or grades as long as a reasonable selection is made.

This.
I am not aware of dealers really checking the viscosity of oil to see if that warrants voidign varranty. But many 0w30 oils can shear down to 0w20 territory withing 10k miles anyways. My car manages to do that in less than 5K miles with its boxer engine.

That being said, you have a very robust engine that I don`t think overly sensentive to oil quality, as long as it is a good oil to begin with. Castrol Edge, or pretty much any M1, especially ESP could be a very good selection. If that was my car, I would probably run PUP xw30 though, since PUP is often on the lower end of the viscosity spectrum for a given grade. So that would not be too far off from 0w20 while protecting better than a 0w20

 

[IndyFan]

Do you close your eyes when oil temperature gets to 230 degrees driving around town on 0w20?

It has never indicated more than 224. So I'm carefree and ride like the wind.

 

[Wireman1987]

I have a 2021 jeep gladiator with the updated 3.6 PUG pentastar. Looking to run 0w20 until the warranty is out (10k more miles). Whats the current best 0w20’s? Preferably on the shelf. I was considering Amsoil but at $15 a quart it is pricey and not sure it’s THAT much better.

1st choices would be Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Edge if your brand boujee. Otherwise Kirkland signature synthetic, NAPA full synthetic or Super Tech synthetic. I haven’t heard that engine being hard on oil. What are your oci’s 5-7500k all those oils will get you there.

 

[altaylar]

1st choices would be Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Edge if your brand boujee. Otherwise Kirkland signature synthetic, NAPA full synthetic or Super Tech synthetic. I haven’t heard that engine being hard on oil. What are your oci’s 5-7500k all those oils will get you there.

Kirkland is great actually. It starts on the thicker end of a grade, and shear down relatively quickly. Exactly as you said, for an OCI of 5k to 7.5K Kirkland would be just fine. But I would not suggest running it more than 10K or more

 

[Wireman1987]

Kirkland is great actually. It starts on the thicker end of a grade, and shear down relatively quickly. Exactly as you said, for an OCI of 5k to 7.5K Kirkland would be just fine. But I would not suggest running it more than 10K or more

exactly not an extended drain synthetic. more so follow the factory recommended oci or 1 year whichever comes first.

 

[tired]

Kirkland is great actually. It starts on the thicker end of a grade, and shear down relatively quickly. Exactly as you said, for an OCI of 5k to 7.5K Kirkland would be just fine. But I would not suggest running it more than 10K or more

Shearing down quickly doesn't sound "great" to me.

 

[Glenda W.]

Shearing down quickly doesn't sound "great" to me.

No it doesn’t…screams mediocre at best.

 

[Wireman1987]

No it doesn’t…screams mediocre at best.

Proof to back this one uoa doesn’t close the case

 

[kschachn]

Proof to back this one uoa doesn’t close the case

Which UOA are we even talking about that shows mechanical shear?

 

[Wireman1987]

Which UOA are we even talking about that shows mechanical shear?

That’s what I’m asking to see. it was mentioned above Kirkland signature synthetic is quick to shear

 

[Glenda W.]

That’s what I’m asking to see. it was mentioned above Kirkland signature synthetic is quick to shear

Altaylar made the claim. I personally don’t use UOA’s to rank or compare oils.

 

[mark pruett]

1) I drive a lot of stop-and-go.

2) I examine the condition of the oil on the dipstick.

^^Not perfect diagnostics, but more than just milage.

I get what you're saying. Short of lab testing my oil at every fill up, I'm working within a broad range. What I'm doing may be wasteful and unnecessary. But, you know, there's oil condition, additive condition, oil contamination, fuel dilution . . . lots of things that I'm hedging against.

Maintenance Minder? The app. is written to assure owners that they don't have to spend money, isn't it? My car says don't worry about valve adjustments until 100,000 mi. There used to be a BMW or Mercedes that said, "Your oil is good for 100,000 mi." Because this is what people want to hear.

You do know that it's pretty likely that with modern engines, the rest of the car will fall apart around the engine anyway, no matter what oil you use?

 

[tired]

You do know that it's pretty likely that with modern engines, the rest of the car will fall apart around the engine anyway, no matter what oil you use?

I agree there is not as much concern for wear these days, but you can't throw a stick around here without hitting someone with an oil burning engine, even at moderate mileage, and even running "high quality" OTS synthetics. I think that for many, being a little more discerning about oil selection is warranted.

 

[trd1zz]

I agree there is not as much concern for wear these days, but you can't throw a stick around here without hitting someone with an oil burning engine, even at moderate mileage, and even running "high quality" OTS synthetics. I think that for many, being a little more discerning about oil selection is warranted.

Is the issue the oil choice?

Or is the issue the extended oil change interval?

Ever since full synthetics came out we've been instructed to double (or triple, or quadruple) the oil change intervals that manufacturers USED to recommend to us... 6 months or 5k miles, whichever comes first.

 

[Gladiator007]

It has never indicated more than 224. So I'm carefree and ride like the wind.

I need to escalate my situation to the dealer. This is not acceptable on the Interstate. It was 232 before I took a picture. I am on Amsoil OE 0w20 and nervous. Haven't switched to 0w40 SS yet.
Something must be wrong in the coolant system.

 

[IndyFan]

I need to escalate my situation to the dealer. This is not acceptable on the Interstate. It was 232 before I took a picture. I am on Amsoil OE 0w20 and nervous. Haven't switched to 0w40 SS yet.
Something must be wrong in the coolant system.

View attachment 296375

Keep in mind that @OIL_UDDER once either posted or told me that the oil cooler is in one of the hottest parts of the engine and that it frequently reads high. That said, there isn´t any synthetic 0w20 that won´t handle that temp easily. It´s not even close to stressing it. Even Pennzoil Platinum with the lowest flash point I have seen (399 degrees) would shake that off.

That said, maybe they need to replace the thermostat? I´ve seen 230 in my Gladiator, but only on a 97 degree day and towing my boat uphill. It did not stay there long. And the Gladiator supposedly has bigger grille openings for better airflow. But it is also an automatic and the JL is a manual. They do behave a little differently.

 

[MuzzleFlash40]

I need to escalate my situation to the dealer. This is not acceptable on the Interstate. It was 232 before I took a picture. I am on Amsoil OE 0w20 and nervous. Haven't switched to 0w40 SS yet.
Something must be wrong in the coolant system.

View attachment 296375

I’ve never seen that temperature in her Jeep GC. Even sitting in stop and go traffic in Florida in midsummer. The oil you’re using can handle that without a problem, but can’t hurt to have them looked at it.