Looking at possibly picking up a 96 Cub Cadet 2155. 15hp Kohler Command, 42" deck(the size limit for fitting in my shed), hydrostatic drive. I mow about 1-1.25 acres of fairly rough ground. Any experience with/opinions on this model? I know it is older and old stuff will need worked on. I'm ok with that as long as it is a solid platform to start out with and the parts availability is there. I'm currently using a John Deere Stx38 but the 38" cut and gear drive trans doesn't exactly cut down on my mowing time.
Cub Cadet 2155
- Thread starter cb_13
- Start date
- Status
Mixed results here: I have one (CuB) in my fleet of riders here also same age, still running at 400+ hours, but its on its last legs: Deck is wore out totally, mower belt to deck issues,seat brackets torn off body, electric clutch wiring pigtail issues, 2 coils on the engine, (I have the Onan engine), I will never buy another Cub Cadet when this one dies. Even though im not a John Deere Fan, I must say my little 1996 J. Deere LX 172 38 inch deck has been a good mower, very little problems. Gregg/Ohio 21 acres,with about 7 in lawn.
I own a 2002 model 3235 Cub Cadet with almost 600 hours on the clock. If properly, and regularly serviced, most Cubs will provide many years of service.
I can tell you, however, there is a big difference between the 2000 vs. 3000 series of Cub Cadets. The 3000 series units are heavier built with features like a spin on filter for the transaxle. The decks and frames are also built using heavier gauge steel. You will pay for the difference in quality.
All of the 1000 and 2000 series units are those usually sold at big box stores. They are sold at a price point much lower than the 3000 series. IMHO, anything less than a 3000 series tractor is little better than most of what you can find in the majority of lawn tractors.
I can tell you, however, there is a big difference between the 2000 vs. 3000 series of Cub Cadets. The 3000 series units are heavier built with features like a spin on filter for the transaxle. The decks and frames are also built using heavier gauge steel. You will pay for the difference in quality.
All of the 1000 and 2000 series units are those usually sold at big box stores. They are sold at a price point much lower than the 3000 series. IMHO, anything less than a 3000 series tractor is little better than most of what you can find in the majority of lawn tractors.
A little technical info:
Cub Cadet 2155
I don't believe the 2155 was a box store model. At the time it was produced it was an independent dealer model. It's shaft driven with belted deck. For a while Cub used aluminum rear ends in their 2000 series tractors. The cast iron is in my opinion preferable for durability.
It's an older tractor and a lot depends on how well it's been maintained.
BTW the 3000 series mentioned above was fully shaft driven including deck and is a very durable machine.
Good luck
Cub Cadet 2155
I don't believe the 2155 was a box store model. At the time it was produced it was an independent dealer model. It's shaft driven with belted deck. For a while Cub used aluminum rear ends in their 2000 series tractors. The cast iron is in my opinion preferable for durability.
It's an older tractor and a lot depends on how well it's been maintained.
BTW the 3000 series mentioned above was fully shaft driven including deck and is a very durable machine.
Good luck
I have a 2001 cub 2166 which is very similar.
I believe if you look the 2155 has a serviceable hydrostatic transmission with an oil filter.
The filter can be seen looking just to the rear of the mower deck.
If so this will be the Hydro Gear BDU series which is quite a nice durable unit if properly serviced..
http://www.hydro-gear.com/main/docs/service-repair-manuals/bdu.pdf
How many hours on the machine?
The Command single cylinder engines are known to last perhaps 2000 hours or more if properly serviced.
Ditto for the Hydro Gear.
I am reasonably sure as the other poster mentioned: the 2155 is not a big box store machine.
Things to look for from my experience buying a used 2166 cub:
If not properly cared for the front of the mower deck can rust out.
Look at the mower deck carefully particularly at the front attachment points; this is where mine was rusted out.
I repaired mine with some steel plate plate and wire welder.
Muffler busted at the seams:
This can happen if the shut down instructions are not paid attention to.
If the engine is shut off at idle it may backfire busting the muffler.
Once removed the muffler is easily repaired with a wire welder.
Loose electrical connections causing random stalling:
On my 2166 I found loose/corroded connections at the starter switch and both fuse holders.
This was easily repaired with new fuses and WD-40 applied to the connections followed by "wiggling" the connector on and off the starter switch.
I am mostly sure the original cause of the problems on mine was that it had been stored outdoors and frequently rained on.
If the fuel is not treated with stabilizer during off seasons the carburetor can become "fouled".
Mine carburetor was repairable with dis-assembly and cleaning.
The rebuild kits are inexpensive.
Bottom line, if the machine has been stored and serviced properly, has no penetrating rust in the mower deck, makes no unusual knocking or other mechanical noises, and mows well....
It can still outlast some of the new "big box" machines IMHO.
Less than 500 hours is a plus, over 1000 hours maybe a little tired, over 1500 hours will likely need an engine rebuild soon.
Good luck I hope this is helpful.
Rickey
I believe if you look the 2155 has a serviceable hydrostatic transmission with an oil filter.
The filter can be seen looking just to the rear of the mower deck.
If so this will be the Hydro Gear BDU series which is quite a nice durable unit if properly serviced..
http://www.hydro-gear.com/main/docs/service-repair-manuals/bdu.pdf
How many hours on the machine?
The Command single cylinder engines are known to last perhaps 2000 hours or more if properly serviced.
Ditto for the Hydro Gear.
I am reasonably sure as the other poster mentioned: the 2155 is not a big box store machine.
Things to look for from my experience buying a used 2166 cub:
If not properly cared for the front of the mower deck can rust out.
Look at the mower deck carefully particularly at the front attachment points; this is where mine was rusted out.
I repaired mine with some steel plate plate and wire welder.
Muffler busted at the seams:
This can happen if the shut down instructions are not paid attention to.
If the engine is shut off at idle it may backfire busting the muffler.
Once removed the muffler is easily repaired with a wire welder.
Loose electrical connections causing random stalling:
On my 2166 I found loose/corroded connections at the starter switch and both fuse holders.
This was easily repaired with new fuses and WD-40 applied to the connections followed by "wiggling" the connector on and off the starter switch.
I am mostly sure the original cause of the problems on mine was that it had been stored outdoors and frequently rained on.
If the fuel is not treated with stabilizer during off seasons the carburetor can become "fouled".
Mine carburetor was repairable with dis-assembly and cleaning.
The rebuild kits are inexpensive.
Bottom line, if the machine has been stored and serviced properly, has no penetrating rust in the mower deck, makes no unusual knocking or other mechanical noises, and mows well....
It can still outlast some of the new "big box" machines IMHO.
Less than 500 hours is a plus, over 1000 hours maybe a little tired, over 1500 hours will likely need an engine rebuild soon.
Good luck I hope this is helpful.
Rickey
When I get something old like that, I factor in the cost of rebuilding the deck with new spindle/spindle bearings, new belts, and new blades.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
cb- For the money, they're an excellent riding mower. Strong frames, solid steering components that are easily serviceable and the best shaft-driven transaxle you're going to find (again.. in this price range). Cutting decks are decent and super easy to remove and replace. The transaxle alone holds 6qts of oil and will have a large spin-on filter. This model will likely have the aluminum housing for the transaxle. Not a big deal at all. Eventually they switched to a (imported from China) cast iron housing. I'd consider that the same as a US made aluminum casting. The trans is driven by a Hydro-Gear BDU series drive, bolted to a Cub/MTD designed rear diff assembly.
I owned a 2005 model year 2544 that's still in the family. I miss having that mower at my house!
I owned a 2005 model year 2544 that's still in the family. I miss having that mower at my house!
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: cb_13
270 hours. It needs a deck belt, battery and tube put in a front tire. He's asking $350 for it.
270 hours!
If that's accurate and there are no "fatal flaws"
$350 is quite reasonable in my opinion.
You can do some repairs if needed and have a solid machine that will outlast most of the new "big box" mowers now on the market.
Assuming that it has had regular oil and filter changes,the engine is just broken in.
Check the air cleaner assembly carefully, look for dirt ingress to the carburetor and evidence of air filters being serviced regularly.
My 2166 has a CH-16S Kohler Command which is the same mechanically as the CH-15 in the mower you are looking at.
Difference is the CH-16S has electronic spark advance which gives a whopping 1 horsepower more.
http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2402_a.pdf
Even considering that I paid more for the 2166 and had to do a lot of "shade tree maintenance" on it, I am quite happy.
By the way you may notice some gear noises from the trans-axle, mine does this too.
I attribute this to the straight cut gears used in the reduction drive.
Coincidence the left front tire was leaking on mine.
Fix-a-Flat took care of mine nicely.
There will be two belts, one from the PTO to the upper deck pulley, and one that drives the spindles off the lower deck pulley.
Look carefully at the transmission dipstick.
If it doesn't fit tightly save yourself some trouble by replacing it.
In my area Walmart has the best deals on mower batteries.
It is reported that the flywheel magnets for the alternator can come un-glued resulting in the battery not being charged. (mine did not have this problem)
Repairing this requires removal and replacement of the flywheel, or re-gluing the magnets with epoxy.
(video on YouTube for this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUGK_H-Sulc )
Below is a list of part#'s gathered for my 2166.
I'm thinking many if not all will apply to the machine you are looking at.
The reasoning behind this is both machines have the same external dimensions, fluid capacities etc.
(use at your own discretion)
723-3014 Filter, Oil Hydro
Napa Gold 1410
http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/CUB-CADET/723-3014
754-3073 Belt, Spindle, A-Section x 61 Lg
754-3055A Belt, PTO, B-Section x 112.4 Lg
725-3234 Switch, Seat
711-0642A Button, Handle
634-3015 Rim Assy, Front
734-3186 Tire, Cub Tread, 15 x 6 x 6
757-3003 Seat, Medium Back
625-0053 Headlight Assy
KH-52-083-01 Pre-Cleaner, Element
KH-24-032-03 Seal, Inner Air Cleaner
759-3547 Element, Air Cleaner
923-0156 Ball joint tie rod ends
931-3020 Cap-Hub
927-3085 Transmission Oil Dipstick
KH-12-050-08 Filter, Engine Oil
WIX Part Number: 51056
STP S3512
Purolator l35310
Fram PH8170
Fram PH8172
AC-Delco PF2210
Fram 3614
AC Delco PF53
****Motorcraft FL910S***** BEST DEAL Walmart.
Please note some of these filters may be too long to clear the left engine side panel.
I use the Motorcraft FL910S which fits perfectly for less than $4 at Walmart.
Cub online manuals:
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/Public.do
I hope this turns out to be a good mower for you.
I am really enjoying the 2166 in my shed.
Rickey.
270 hours. It needs a deck belt, battery and tube put in a front tire. He's asking $350 for it.
270 hours!
If that's accurate and there are no "fatal flaws"
$350 is quite reasonable in my opinion.
You can do some repairs if needed and have a solid machine that will outlast most of the new "big box" mowers now on the market.
Assuming that it has had regular oil and filter changes,the engine is just broken in.
Check the air cleaner assembly carefully, look for dirt ingress to the carburetor and evidence of air filters being serviced regularly.
My 2166 has a CH-16S Kohler Command which is the same mechanically as the CH-15 in the mower you are looking at.
Difference is the CH-16S has electronic spark advance which gives a whopping 1 horsepower more.
http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2402_a.pdf
Even considering that I paid more for the 2166 and had to do a lot of "shade tree maintenance" on it, I am quite happy.
By the way you may notice some gear noises from the trans-axle, mine does this too.
I attribute this to the straight cut gears used in the reduction drive.
Coincidence the left front tire was leaking on mine.
Fix-a-Flat took care of mine nicely.
There will be two belts, one from the PTO to the upper deck pulley, and one that drives the spindles off the lower deck pulley.
Look carefully at the transmission dipstick.
If it doesn't fit tightly save yourself some trouble by replacing it.
In my area Walmart has the best deals on mower batteries.
It is reported that the flywheel magnets for the alternator can come un-glued resulting in the battery not being charged. (mine did not have this problem)
Repairing this requires removal and replacement of the flywheel, or re-gluing the magnets with epoxy.
(video on YouTube for this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUGK_H-Sulc )
Below is a list of part#'s gathered for my 2166.
I'm thinking many if not all will apply to the machine you are looking at.
The reasoning behind this is both machines have the same external dimensions, fluid capacities etc.
(use at your own discretion)
723-3014 Filter, Oil Hydro
Napa Gold 1410
http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/CUB-CADET/723-3014
754-3073 Belt, Spindle, A-Section x 61 Lg
754-3055A Belt, PTO, B-Section x 112.4 Lg
725-3234 Switch, Seat
711-0642A Button, Handle
634-3015 Rim Assy, Front
734-3186 Tire, Cub Tread, 15 x 6 x 6
757-3003 Seat, Medium Back
625-0053 Headlight Assy
KH-52-083-01 Pre-Cleaner, Element
KH-24-032-03 Seal, Inner Air Cleaner
759-3547 Element, Air Cleaner
923-0156 Ball joint tie rod ends
931-3020 Cap-Hub
927-3085 Transmission Oil Dipstick
KH-12-050-08 Filter, Engine Oil
WIX Part Number: 51056
STP S3512
Purolator l35310
Fram PH8170
Fram PH8172
AC-Delco PF2210
Fram 3614
AC Delco PF53
****Motorcraft FL910S***** BEST DEAL Walmart.
Please note some of these filters may be too long to clear the left engine side panel.
I use the Motorcraft FL910S which fits perfectly for less than $4 at Walmart.
Cub online manuals:
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/Public.do
I hope this turns out to be a good mower for you.
I am really enjoying the 2166 in my shed.
Rickey.
Hopefully there are no surprises. Was able to get it jumped and hear it run. Really wanted to make sure it drove well and the pto clutch engaged. The jumper cable was the only thing holding on the battery terminal since I dropped the nut down in the body of the mower(found it when I got home). The battery I brought from off of my mower didn't hold up as it took some cranking after sitting in a shed for so long. Once it fired up ran strong until I unhooked the cable. I'm assuming it has the fuel shut off solenoid on the carb that needs 12v to open. Cleaned the terminals on the ignition and pto engage switches as soon as I got it home. Should be able to get it in the shop next weekend and hopefully have it ready to mow after that.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Hopefully there's no E-clutch issues if you weren't able to actually test the clutch. Not only are they pricey, they can be a pain to remove from the crank. Like said above, another nice thing about these machines is they only use two belts. The PTO belt to drive the deck and a belt on the deck itself for the spindle drives. The PTO belt seems odd with the 90deg bend, but belts last years provided you don't beat the khrap out of the deck. Make sure you let the deck hang when in use and not bang around against the ground. Gauge wheels on these are meant to ride over high spots, not stay in constant contact with the ground.
Originally Posted By: cb_13
Hopefully there are no surprises. Was able to get it jumped and hear it run. Really wanted to make sure it drove well and the pto clutch engaged. The jumper cable was the only thing holding on the battery terminal since I dropped the nut down in the body of the mower(found it when I got home). The battery I brought from off of my mower didn't hold up as it took some cranking after sitting in a shed for so long. Once it fired up ran strong until I unhooked the cable. I'm assuming it has the fuel shut off solenoid on the carb that needs 12v to open. Cleaned the terminals on the ignition and pto engage switches as soon as I got it home. Should be able to get it in the shop next weekend and hopefully have it ready to mow after that.
Just wondering how this turns out.
Any updates?
Rickey.
Hopefully there are no surprises. Was able to get it jumped and hear it run. Really wanted to make sure it drove well and the pto clutch engaged. The jumper cable was the only thing holding on the battery terminal since I dropped the nut down in the body of the mower(found it when I got home). The battery I brought from off of my mower didn't hold up as it took some cranking after sitting in a shed for so long. Once it fired up ran strong until I unhooked the cable. I'm assuming it has the fuel shut off solenoid on the carb that needs 12v to open. Cleaned the terminals on the ignition and pto engage switches as soon as I got it home. Should be able to get it in the shop next weekend and hopefully have it ready to mow after that.
Just wondering how this turns out.
Any updates?
Rickey.
Picture's! As far as Cub's go, the 3000 series are a much more durable machine. 2000 series should be ok for a smaller lawn.
With a charged battery it runs well. Hydrostatic drive works as I would expect it to and the PTO clutch engages as it should which was my major concern. I have a belt and transmission filter in the back seat of my truck and a transmission dipstick waiting for me to pick up at the dealer. Thank you Rickey for the heads up on those not seating well. I just haven't had the time to finish it up yet.
Do you guys think Rotella or any 15w40 Hdeo for that matter would be a good choice for the engine and trans? It calls for 10w30 in the engine but I ran 15w40 in my Deere with a Kohler Command engine. Cub Cadet recommends their own specific axle fluid and the pump manufacturer calls for either 10w40, 20w50 or synthetic 15w50.
Do you guys think Rotella or any 15w40 Hdeo for that matter would be a good choice for the engine and trans? It calls for 10w30 in the engine but I ran 15w40 in my Deere with a Kohler Command engine. Cub Cadet recommends their own specific axle fluid and the pump manufacturer calls for either 10w40, 20w50 or synthetic 15w50.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
I ran Shell Rotella-T 15w40 in place of the Cub Cadet Drive System Fluid Plus in my 2005 model year Cub 2544. Same trans as yours. Trans dipsticks are indeed an issue with the older, aluminum housed transaxles.
Originally Posted By: cb_13
With a charged battery it runs well. Hydrostatic drive works as I would expect it to and the PTO clutch engages as it should which was my major concern. I have a belt and transmission filter in the back seat of my truck and a transmission dipstick waiting for me to pick up at the dealer. Thank you Rickey for the heads up on those not seating well. I just haven't had the time to finish it up yet.
Do you guys think Rotella or any 15w40 Hdeo for that matter would be a good choice for the engine and trans? It calls for 10w30 in the engine but I ran 15w40 in my Deere with a Kohler Command engine. Cub Cadet recommends their own specific axle fluid and the pump manufacturer calls for either 10w40, 20w50 or synthetic 15w50.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good to know that the hydro and PTO clutch are working.
Just my opinion: any 15W40 HDEO should serve nicely in both the hydro and the engine.
I'm running Rotella T6 5W40 which is probably overkill for this application.
For peace of mind you might consider measuring the battery voltage while the engine is running.
Mine charges at about 14.1 VDC if memory serves me correctly (high idle).
If the voltage is less than 12.6 while running no charging is indicated.
A quick test is to turn the PTO and headlights on at low idle,
If the headlights increase in brightness as the throttle is increased, the charging system is probably OK.
Another poster commented on the 3000 series:
Wish I had one of those too.
However with my one acre the 2166 finishes the job quickly with a nice cut appearance.
Running Gator Blades by the way.
I had a newer "big box" Cub Cadet LT 1045 machine that developed a "death rattle" in it's engine at around 200 hours.
The Kohler Courage singles are known for loose counter-balancer and other issues inside the engine.
The Command series does not have these issues.
That and the LT 1045 machine was cheaply built over all in comparison to the 2000 and 3000 series.
Traded the 1045 on the 2166 and not looking back.
Good luck with your machine Sir.
May it serve you well!
Rickey.
With a charged battery it runs well. Hydrostatic drive works as I would expect it to and the PTO clutch engages as it should which was my major concern. I have a belt and transmission filter in the back seat of my truck and a transmission dipstick waiting for me to pick up at the dealer. Thank you Rickey for the heads up on those not seating well. I just haven't had the time to finish it up yet.
Do you guys think Rotella or any 15w40 Hdeo for that matter would be a good choice for the engine and trans? It calls for 10w30 in the engine but I ran 15w40 in my Deere with a Kohler Command engine. Cub Cadet recommends their own specific axle fluid and the pump manufacturer calls for either 10w40, 20w50 or synthetic 15w50.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good to know that the hydro and PTO clutch are working.
Just my opinion: any 15W40 HDEO should serve nicely in both the hydro and the engine.
I'm running Rotella T6 5W40 which is probably overkill for this application.
For peace of mind you might consider measuring the battery voltage while the engine is running.
Mine charges at about 14.1 VDC if memory serves me correctly (high idle).
If the voltage is less than 12.6 while running no charging is indicated.
A quick test is to turn the PTO and headlights on at low idle,
If the headlights increase in brightness as the throttle is increased, the charging system is probably OK.
Another poster commented on the 3000 series:
Wish I had one of those too.
However with my one acre the 2166 finishes the job quickly with a nice cut appearance.
Running Gator Blades by the way.
I had a newer "big box" Cub Cadet LT 1045 machine that developed a "death rattle" in it's engine at around 200 hours.
The Kohler Courage singles are known for loose counter-balancer and other issues inside the engine.
The Command series does not have these issues.
That and the LT 1045 machine was cheaply built over all in comparison to the 2000 and 3000 series.
Traded the 1045 on the 2166 and not looking back.
Good luck with your machine Sir.
May it serve you well!
Rickey.
I did end up having one surprise issue. Even after cleaning the carb the mower would die when hot. Turned out to be the fuel line. It had a noticeable bulge in it once the insulation was removed. Not a bad fix once I had the time to do it. Unfortunately I took it to a local small engine shop first and had to fix everything they broke as well.
Thanks for the update.
I was wondering how this had turned out for you.
Glad to hear that it is serving you well despite the foul up at the small engine shop.
I don't trust anyone else with my mechanical stuff unless it's a warranty issue.
A known good repair shop is gold!
I was wondering how this had turned out for you.
Glad to hear that it is serving you well despite the foul up at the small engine shop.
I don't trust anyone else with my mechanical stuff unless it's a warranty issue.
A known good repair shop is gold!
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Originally Posted By: cb_13
I did end up having one surprise issue. Even after cleaning the carb the mower would die when hot. Turned out to be the fuel line. It had a noticeable bulge in it once the insulation was removed. Not a bad fix once I had the time to do it. Unfortunately I took it to a local small engine shop first and had to fix everything they broke as well.
Kohlers with the pulse/vac fuel pumps can be sensitive to the fuel filter being used. I've seen several times where non OEM replacement filters caused fuel starvation issues. Good find on the fuel line. I'm sure a swelled up or pinched line would be too much for these fuel pumps to push fuel through as well.
I did end up having one surprise issue. Even after cleaning the carb the mower would die when hot. Turned out to be the fuel line. It had a noticeable bulge in it once the insulation was removed. Not a bad fix once I had the time to do it. Unfortunately I took it to a local small engine shop first and had to fix everything they broke as well.
Kohlers with the pulse/vac fuel pumps can be sensitive to the fuel filter being used. I've seen several times where non OEM replacement filters caused fuel starvation issues. Good find on the fuel line. I'm sure a swelled up or pinched line would be too much for these fuel pumps to push fuel through as well.
- Status
